jimbo349

another born again here.....wife permitting enjoy it

Ive got one in the shed had a little peak and airvents with movable flaps to cover then up in winter. Im riding tomorrow but will try to remember to take some pic on my return.

How much does that kit cost for the mont?

Punch the engine number onto the head stock with a star at the start and the end and hope the thing is not pinched.

I would be wary of the rims with the heat they have been subjected to the ally will have softened and the rims are realy to be considered scrap in my opinion. The throttle whold have been a straight pull amal thingy and as for the amal levers buy them they dont beak like cheepo atermrket stuff I have had my MH 25 years and its still on the origional levers.

The wheels are MH349 items the rear is the same apart from the colour of the rim but the early 348 hubs had a tendency to break off bearing boss behind the brake shoes. The front rim has a larger hub and better brake as a result, unless you are realy set on the origional hub keep it, but if you want an origional with a gold rim I have one with all the brake plate for a swap. The kick starter you have is off a cota 200 and if in good nick worth a few quid as they strip the splines and are no longer available unlike the 348/9 on which is available from millers or inmotion. Good Luck with the rebuild.

The number is on the headstock as well as a VIN plate rivited onto the headstock with the model number and serial number on it. Also the engine number should be the same as the frame number, my bike had had its frame number stamped onto the frame after it was painted when new which suggests Montesa fitted the engine in the factory and then numbered the frame to match. I had this bike new from sandifards in 86 so its not been interfeared with.

No the 242 has longer forks than a MH200 but the MH349 has the same length as the 242.

To add to the above the 349 motor has a bolt on inlet manifold and the 348 has the manifold cast into the barrel.

At £1.35 a Litre of fuel thats why we dont have real trucks.........

Here Here I started trial 27 years ago and did compete for about 4-5 years then discovered women beer and cars. About 10 years ago I decided to get the old mont out of retirement and have another go.......well the local club did not realy accomodate the older bikes and I realy struggled getting to the end of the sections let alone getting a clean or even a 3. This put me right off.. Now having found a suitable club with realistic sections for the creaky old bike and rider Im back on the pegs.

See you there

Dabbers are holding a trial on the 6th of feb near Thetford look it up on their wedsite and come along have a look at the bikes and see what its all about. I just returned into the sport after a long long lay off and this club is just the job. As already mentioned many riders will give advice and let you have a go after the event.

Hi Being in norfolk you are lucky to have a very fine twin shock club localally in the Dabbers trials club who run events for older bikes. As for a bike if TS is your bag then the choices are good with Yamaha ty 175's being the most popular with a raft of spanish stuff from monts to bults with ossas and swm's in the mix too, also the italian fantics with the 240's being considered as good as a ts gets. British bikes are rare but armstrong/ccm's do crop up.

Kevin Breedon Racing

Be carfull with outboard oil if its for larger water cooled engines(TCW1-11-111), its not suitable for air cooled engines and will damage the piston and bore. Outboard motors run much cooler than conventional 2t motors and the oil is formulated to suit, stick on E bay and get some appropriate oil. 25:1 for mineral and 32:1 for synthetic is wha the manual says for the 349. I use normal mineral castrol in mine at 25:1 ok it smokes a bit but so what it runs clean enough and thats the main thing and I want it to last another 25 years without trouble.

Any chance of a copy for me too please

The black is the only wire you need to worry about tape the others up and feed the black to the coil. the stop switch simply connects to the black and if a second wire is present on the switch this goes to earth. The other cables are varoius feeds to the headlight, electric horn, tail light, stop lamp ect.

Hi The wire for the coil is the black one all the others are for lights and not needed. As or the plug Iwill have to look it up.B6ES with a 0.5nn gap

Hi Andy Ita a cota 200 and is 175cc. The first thing to check is there a spark if so and it wont start check the timing now im not 100% what it should be but 2mm btdc is a safe place to start. if the timing is way out wip the flywheel off and check the woodruff key is intact. Google "todo trial" you may be able to download a owners handbook from that site. I have a cota 200 I got cheep as a non runner and it was just the woodruff key. Good bike but the kickstarter is a weak point so dont jump on it as parts are impossible to find and they can jump out of gear in steep climbs. James

I wip the chain off and leave it in a tub of old gear oil for a day or so leave to drain off and refit.

One pic today will try to get some from the trial tomorrow.

Well the bike is now done in readyness for a clubman trial on sunday, the clutch is sill not 100% but im hoping it will improve. I dropped the ATF and filled with a basic mineral 10/30 (I had some) as per the manual the clutch does not slip like it did on the starter but drags a little. I will take some pics and post them up tomorow.

A least you didnt have the chain in the chip fryer

Flywheel woodruff keys shear on these bikes, pull the flywheel and check its a classic Mont problem. Always buy the proper key as they a chamfered, I recently obtained a Cota 200 cheep due to the same problem. Lap the flywheel onto the crank with valve paste before refitting for a tight fit on the taper.