jimbo349

Bushes are not available but a off the shelf oillite bush is available that is smaller in the id meaning either ream them out or have the metal spacer machined down which is what I have done on the MH so if they need changing again a couple of quid for the bushes and job done.

11th hour problem Got the bike 99% done but the clutch is giving me some problems. New plates and springs from Inmotion filled with the correct quantity of ATF but the clutch wont hold enough to start the bike with the kick starter it just slips. The basket is fine with no steps on the contact points and the cable is slack with free play on the clutch arm so the clutch is fully engaged. ~Just running this by you guys before i contact Inmotion for advice. The original clutch was better!

Drive sprocket on the wrong side, the motor is more likely to fit a cota 200 as I think its a evolution of the cota200 motor.

The number of balls depends on the race having a plastic spacer to position the balls 20 required or no spacer 23 balls required. I replaced the complete bearings in my bike recently as the bottom race was corroded. Hope this helps.

Is the clutch side flywheel on a taper on a 348 or is it a parallel shaft witha key like on the later 349 just asking btw.

The brakes are not strong point on these bikes but a little work can improove things. I take it new shoes are fitted, you need to make the shoes fit the drum as the drums wear well worth the effort but a pain to do. Also before the wheel spindle is fully tightened apply the front brake to centre the shoes in the drum. Just fitted new shoes to my sons cota 200 and the brakes are not anywhere as good as the old ones as things need to bed in even after some initial setting up.

I think if you passed your test before 97 your ok. I am and I passed in 86 my liecence has a E on it. Even so a youngster can tow a trailer upto 750KG unbraked or upto a GTW of 3500KG tow car/van plus gross weight of the trailer.

Ebay is springing up a lot of parts at the moment theres a guy breaking a MH123. In motion trials also sell a lot of Mont stuff as does Sandiford offroad again both on Ebay. Sammy Miller Components also do some bits. Its just a waiting game for a lot of bits Im afraid.

Depends what you are after Im doing a 200 for my son and some parts have been hard to find especially engine stuff. Cycle parts are not too uncommon to other 1980 monts. Im just hoping some of the engine parts from other models I have got fit my bike. Good luck and keep us posted on progress. James

Thanks for that I guessed the travel was longer my bike always ran with the forks 6mm above the yoke from new, must have been doing something right all those years ago.

Good advice thank you. Work on the bike is coming on slowly but this is where I am at the moment. Clutch was shot so a new one is fitted with new springs. The piston is quite worn but will have to fly for now a mahl piston is nearly

Top man thanks James

Finally think Ive found all the parts required for the little 200 but what oil and how much in the gearbox/clutch? The oil in there is green and just looks like Duckhams multigtade engine oil. Many thanks

Ok Amal carb as per MH359 manual Make;Amal type;L-2627/216 diffuser diameter;27 Main jet;145 Low speed jet;20 Gas valve;no.4 sprayer;107 position needle; 2a (2B1) Looks like the low speed jet could be the problem. James

The 2 stroke oil if mineral should be 25:1 4% Gearbox is 300mils of 90 weight Clutch as manual should be 10w30 but most people use 10 weight or ATF 300 mil again the jets for the amal I will check tomorrow as my manual in on my desk at work.

Yes a V shaped piece of ally about 6mm thick picks up the lug on the head and two points on the frame.

The chain tubes where a Montesa and Bultaco thing, the idea is to keep the chain clean and if managed properly work quite well. On my bike which has the bottom tentioner behind the rubber front sprocket cover the chain hits the swingarm if the tube is not fitted and the chain is a little slack. Im in the process of rebuilding mine Ive owned it from new 24 years and its going to cost as much as it was new

I have a MH349 owners manual but apart from a few torque settings and wiring diagrams is not exactly helpfull. Has your bike still got its lights on otherwise the only cable to worry about is the black from the motor which connects to the coil and kill switch. Chain tube available from In Motion Trials in the UK

Whats the cost of powder coating a frame and swing arm any ideas?

Thanks for that they look to be the people

Ok I have started to strip my mh349 down and assess whats required, I have owned this bike from new and used it for trials and for general nobbing about the countryside. I has seen little use in the last 15 years apart from a handfull of trials about 8 years ago. Its been buried in the shed since and has deteriated shamefully in that time. It still has the origional cables, front tyre, paint, chain and front sprocket the rear being changed from 33 to 38 tooth when only a few weeks old. So it needs; The frame and exhaust painting The engine rattles on overrun and the piston is quite loose in the bore so I guess a rebore will be required soon although the compression is still bloody good . It had a small end 8 years ago from sandifords when I did a few club trials. Parts required (any suggestions on the best vendors would be appriciated) Complete set of cables Chain and sprocket set I think the front is on a taper and not the spline as its held on with a 24mmAF nut (any input would be nice) Rear shocks or replacement rubbers Rear brake cable this snapped years ago and was replaced with a rod which works but not correct. Carb rubbers both sides 1 Chain tube Chain tentioner pad Airfilter Front tyre and tube Fork seals Fuel tap leaks Sandifords could not provide a replacement 8 years ago and as a temporary fix greasing up the rubber sorts it for a few months. LH fork slider as the lug for the brake torque arm has snapped off or someone to build it back up with weld. The front wheel was reversed as the LH slider has the same lug on the rear of the slider. The wheel hubs are requiring paint and in time I would like to have the wheels respoked and refurbished. The clutch slips in 5th and 6th and will require new plates but I may play with oils first always used ATF. And a bit lump of TLC. So guys who's the best company for the above. Thanks in advance James Im in the UK BTW.

Sounds like a Montesa honda tank painted white mine is self coloured dul orange and is made from roto-molded plastic and it does not leak

Thanks for that, I plan to get the bike ready for the winter season as long a the parts I need are available. There seems to be a lack of support for the old Monts when it comes to the engine unless Im looking in the wrong places.

The Fantic 125cc engine was modified by a guy in Wales years ago and fitted with a TS185 piston and I think a cast liner in the barrel. Fantics generally had chrome bores at the time. I had one of these bikes and the engine was very flat and had none of the zip the Fantic 200 had. Thats all I can say about the bike I had great for anything that didnt involve a big climb.

Hi Guys and Gals My name is James and I used to do trials years ago, and am thinking of having another go. I still have a MH349 which I have had from new in 86 but she needs a bit if TLC to get going again. Things to do Sort out the clutch it slips even when you try to start the bike. New rubbers either side of the carb. Chain and sprockets (They are still the origional ones that came with the bike) Petrol tap leaks needs a new rubber or replacing. New fork slider RHS as the lug that the brake rod bolts to has snapped off. (the wheel has been reversed and the lug on the back of the LHS fork is being used. Paint the frame as the paint has flaked off everywhere. I seem to remember the engine having a good knock from the top end but the compression is still healthy so a rebore may be a while away yet. New front tyre. Then I will have a go at some old farts wobbler stuff to see if my old bones are still upto a bit of abuse.