basher

The story goes i took my bars off to remove some spacers i had in, when i kicked the bike up it went to full revs striaght away. knowing many away to stop the bike now when im calm or if it was someone else, i paniced at the time obviously kill switch didnt do anything, hand over exhaust did nothing, i went to throw it upside down and it jumped in gear. thankfully a lad ran over and one lad went for spark plug and other just ripped the throttle cable off the bars and all was good. it felt like an externity at the time but it was geniunely a fair while and it got to the point i was thinking it woul seize. i lubed the throttle up and checked everything and went on riding and everything seemed ok. it did it again when i kicked it up 20 min later this time i ripped the ht lead off but im guessing it was self combusting due to heat so stalled it. ive bought new cable and throttle and will check carb over and clean. my qeustion is do you think i should replace piston ring and little end bearing and head gasket to be on safe side? due to the long period of high revs. cheers andy

Cheers guys think I understand now what to do. Ill have to sort it in morning.

i have just replaced the seals and ive read that i need to leave the spring out and fill it up to 160mm air gap. but how can i do this as to put the bottom bolt back in to fill it up i need to put the spring in. hopefully if anyone can help ill get it sorted and be able to ride tomorow. cheers andy

well this became a bit of a thing for me when i got my bike which is a 2011 raga 300. I bought the bike and it had fresh castrol atf fluid in it. and the clutch was so progressive I was struggling like mad, to the point where the bike nearly went up for sale after a month. I did a bit of searching and changed the levers to bendy ones to give me more adjustment and I changed the oil. I run 400ml of putoline gp10 and it has transformed the bike and clutch feel. its the lightest oil putoline do I believe and I change it every 3 or 4 rides. if your not going to change it so often then run more oil. I also found out that atf fluid can cause the clutch plates to swell in gassers which will take them out of tolerance and change the clutches characteristics and feel.

Struggling at work to find the part numbers on my phone and wondered if someone could help me out as bearing factors is round corner from work and could have it sorted today or tomorow then. The original needle bearings are crap as the seal is seperate and doesn't work well. I'd like to know the part number for the decent upgraded bearing with built in seal please? Cheers andy

why not buy a s3 clutch cover they have the option on the amount of o rings to alter the clutches progressiveness.

i found i hated the gas gas clutch myself personally having come from a sherco which doesnt have a progressive clutch. ive switched to light gear oil putoline, and changed my levers to the flexi ones. i went out today and yet still progressive i have actually been able to get ust to the bike and am starting to enjoy it. if i was you id sell up and get something different. whats the point heavily modifying the bike like your on about, think about resale. if the bikes not for you get something different

That's brilliant advice cheers. Ill just buy a new set of plates off john shirt and make sure that they send them with a thicker fibrer. It has standard long levers on so ill change them. Looked around and can't find these jitsie levers anywhere. I think ill try the bendy rfx ones first as a lad at comp on sunday had same bike and clutch was better but I could tell lever was heavey feeling so more than liekyl he has got lucky and plates have swelled abit. Ill try the bike tonight with this oil I've just put in and see if there's any difference. I change it every 3 rides anyway.

it had castrol dexstron in. ive just had that thought myself so changed it for some putoline gp10 75w i ran that in the sherco fine. ive put about 420ml in. little hard to tell as i spilt some. ill have a look how far up the glass it is. how does this work out tho. i measured the 2 plates and there 2mm thick each so how can i switch to different thicker plates when they only go up to 1.6mm? would be great if you could ask about the jitsie levers please. ill have a look at them. i never found the pull was that bad on sherco. and it wasnt like a full on switch the clutch, it did have a bit of slip but just no where near the amount this gas gas does.

i dont really want to go down that route really, alot of mony for bling really, and it seems a naff way of adjusting clutch using o ring seals. ive just measured the clutch pack height and it measure around 9.74mm if i change the plates then surely this will then mean the clutch pack height measurement is out. does this not really matter and im still ok to change for different plate to get closer to 16mm??

well here goes. ive got a 2011 raga rep 300cc. ive come from a sherco and i loved the shercos clutch it suited me and my riding really well. the clutch was pritty quick in engaging and didnt have that much progression. ive gone on to this bike and hate the clutch, its way to progressive. even on full adjustment the clutch only just starts to bite near the knuckle and i am dragging the clutch quite alot on somethings when i dont want it to. ive tried bleeding it and still no difference. ive been looking into it in the last day and have found out that you can change the spring height of the fingers which will give it a slightly harder feel on leaver but will also give less progression. at the moment it measures 17.9mm on average around the fingers. i believe you can go lower down to 16mm. my question is what plates do i need to get it down? they do a 1.3 1.4 1.5 i believe. also any idea how much the plates are? cheers for any help

cheers for that, i found it and is just what im after http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNm2zyzKV7U

cheers, didnt think of looking on youtube. ill see if i can find it

anyone know how to adjust the reiger shocks? theres 2 adjusters a big one on top and small one on bottom. on my previous bike a 2010 sherco 290 i liked it set up with the spring wound down to get more rebound and the sampening set hard to aid this also. obviously i can wind the spring down on this shock but not sure on the dial front what to do. any tips and advice would be greatfull. thanks andy

i think we are on same wave lenght or was. ive been on the montesa and its such a stable bike but is alittle more less agile than 2 strokes. The thing that attracts me to the montesa is that in 5 years it'll proberly still be going strong. the ossa attracts me because of the agile suspension and quality workmanship and ideas that have gone into it. my problem is i cant test either fully as i have a dislocated elbow im recovering from, i have no doubt ill proberly like both after a few rides but in essence i am buying in the dark.

Im looking into a new bike ad I was going for a montesa. I orignally looked at ossa's but heard alot of negativity about the 2011 bikes, which over shadows the good points really. ive read a few bits of topics but theres no real topic on 2012 bikes yet. is the 2012 a much better bike with all the previous problems being solved? or are there still issues that need addressing?

got a 2010 290, im after a cover for the exhuast silencer instead of the little crappy thing that come with it. cant seem to find one anywhere, any ideas?

thanking you, that helps massively. and no its for a 2010 sherco. i hate aluminium pegs (come as standard) so am going to make up some stainless ones and eventually when i get some titanium ill get some of them.

im drawing up some foot pegs to make, and dont have anything on me to measure the angle the footpeg bolt sits at to the footpeg. if that makes sense. anyone know this?

i know of a person who just bought one and in the last few months and had problems with stalling, he took it back and it turned out to be jetted for the spanish climate and fuel. incase you havnt already done fit an inline fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump

i found a leaner oil mix runs better on my 2010 290 at low revs to help with the stalling. using 75ml to 5 litres where previously running 100ml. also using a iridium spark plug which seams to be nice. id say the gearing is fine, definately not to tall, you just need to adapt to the bike. i found mine far from soft, very snatchy and a handful to ride, which can be good for a higher level rider. you might be confusing this with the gearing, a change in gearing or fly wheel weight would help this i suppose.

it was all the way out as thats how they came out of the factory? Ill take it off and have a look.

bike is 2010 290 sherco i was fiddling with my suspension last week and when i came to do the front i wanted to adjust the spring setting, so i got a 6mm allen key out and tried adjusting the screw on the top of the left fork by trying to screw it in. it wouldnt go in and ended up rounding it off as it only aluminium. first question is why wouldn't it adjust? and second is where can i get a replacement part.

carb has been cleaned, i have an inline filter between tank and fuel pump and that is changed every so often so is fine, air filter is clean. ill try 80ml mix with ipone which i was using before. i suppose i could check the plug for being crapped up, and oily.

bike is 2010 sherco 290 bike has been running really crap lately, reguarly stalling and not ticking over well. ive changed oils lately to PJ1 which seems to have made a difference in making it worse, but wondered if the amount of oil i use could be the probelem to why its running rubbish on tick over? im running 100ml to 5 litres which is 50:1