02-apr

I usually just lie mine on its side in such circumstances - after switching off the petrol of course!

Apparently the best mod is to your kickstart technique, not to the bike, as the mechanisms are notoriously weak and some care in use is advisable.

You may be right there, but there must be a reason why the designer chose extra advance. I have to say I don't feel the need for a power increase - having got used to modern bikes I'm having enough difficulty keeping the old-fashioned light front end down!

The setup tips should solve any problems during a trial but you really should switch the tap off during transit, it is what it is there for after all, as the movement on a trailer or in a van can cause the floats to move slightly and let fuel through. Never mind that we used to automatically switch off at every section in the old days, we switched off every time we parked the road bike!

Isn't there a 220 conversion you can do?

It is "full sized" in the terms you quote but smaller than a 250 so lighter. I recall that Brian Hutchinson always had good results in the SSDT on the small Mont. I don't know how far you will have to go but I know of a 200 Mont (same bike, bigger barrel) for sale in Scarborough (not me selling by the way).

My reference meant work to the frame along the lines of what OTF says.

Sorry for not getting back to you FUF but I have been too busy to poke about on TC too deeply of late so had not seen your post. The Miller frames crack round the front downtubes just at the end of the gusset. Whether this is bad design or poor material I don't know but, despite what the sticker on the headstock says, the downtubes on my Miller frame are not made of 531. Maybe it's just the headstock that's 531, crafty marketing! My Miller frame also has a round top tube so the one shown is probably not a Miller - as somebody said above, a Whitehawk.

If my efforts have not sorted my ignition problems this weekend then I'll be going electronic (reluctantly as the original was regarded as a good system). There seem to be two systems on the market; Trail and Trials and Electrex World. The former advances to 25 degrees BTDC, the latter to 16 degrees BTDC. Does anyone know how this compares to the standard set up at 1.8mm BTDC and/or have experience of the two to say how much effect the 9 degrees greater advance on the T&T one has compared to the other? By the way the motor has been taken out to 200 but I have no idea how this has been achieved (I believe there is more than one way to do this). Thanks.

Obviously take the arm out to make it easy to get at the area - probably time to grease pivots etc anyway?. Easyouts can snap leaving you an even bigger problem. Try drilling a hole down the middle then hammer in a Torx bit and use that to turn the bolt. At least if it doesn't work you can remove it and drill a bigger hole or whatever method you then choose.

I'm sure sombody did a rear disc conversion back in the day so you might find one around somewhere. Good luck with growing the roses using the rocking horse manure!

Don't go too short, the key to good trailer handling is a long enough distance from towball to axle.

But the graduations on Ipone oil bottles are not accurate in my experience - use a syringe to get accurate oil measurements.

I think you've just rediscovered why everybody went out and bought a Bultaco! Surely jacking up the back end can only provide minor improvement, given that the wheel remains the same diameter, as the chain will start to rub on the swingarm pivot before you go very far. Time to get the hacksaw out I'm afraid?

The differences probably only amount to about £100,000 or so.