hugh_b

Hi everyone, Can anyone point me in the direction of real carbon fibre frame and swing arms guards to fit a 2015 repsol please? I'm after some good quality items to match the standard parts. Thanks

Thanks guy's, I went to St Blazey mx yesterday and came away with a new 2015 Repsol at a substantial discount over a 2016 which for all intents and purposes looks identical. Very happy and can't wait to get back out and try it!

I'm currently looking at buying a new 4rt, never had a 4 stroke trials bike but had Honda mx bikes and they've always been well engineered! Is the repsol worth the extra money? I've been looking at new 2016 bikes but can get a 2015 repsol new for around £700 less than the 2016 so that's another option. I'm just getting back into riding but used to ride at just expert club and and centre level. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks guy's, some very helpful info! I'm having a search around for a pre-registered Peugeot/Citroen unless a bargain VW comes up?

Hi everyone, Looking at getting a bike again after a couple of years off but I'd quite like a small van to keep it from prying eyes and for ease of loading so no faffing with a trailer etc. It will also be handy for the mountain bikes. I'm looking at some of the newer models, i used to have a face lift vw t5 which was lovely but now not necessary and too expensive. I quite like the caddy's but they are quite expensive for a basic spec but still an option. The Citroen berlingo looks like a good option as the enterprise model has air con, electric windows etc and looks smart inside. Has anyone got either of the above and how do you find it for one bike and kit? Any others i should be looking at? Thanks

It's possible. I had a faulty cdi unit on my 2013 bike, it would give symptoms of running hot and run very lumpy. Swapped it out with a mates 2012 unit and it ran perfectly. Rathmell's replaced under warranty. Do you have a friend with a sherco you can pinch the cdi from?

I was lucky enough to get a ride on one over the weekend. I have to say, very very nice! Also looks fantastically well put together!

I've just picked up my 2014 today from splatshop which Chris has prepped, i'm coming from a 2013 290. They are a great bike. As has been said, it's worth fitting frame guards, the air box design is fantastic so you'd have to try hard to get dirt in the carb but i do clean my airbox out everytime as it's only 2 bolts to remove. Check the headstock/linkage for grease. The dog bones use bushings which is another good design and are dirt cheap to replace. Run it in and check every accessible bolt, spoke tension, change oil etc. I believe Chris also set my carb float height correctly. Fit a velcro/neoprene cover over the fuel cap, keeps all the rubbish out for clean re-fuelling! The shop should have the bike set up correctly but many don't. Hugh

Just thought i'd post a quick update. After some tinkering and swapping bits from a friends bike, the poor running turned out to be a faulty CDI. Malcolm Rathmell Sport were fantastic and sent out a CDI under warranty straight away so big thanks to them as I will now be riding this weekend!

It was more like 70....but at least I'm riding expert and not trophy hunting on the novice route teeheehehe!

I will double check the fan and stat but i'm sure it was kicking in on idle, it just seemed odd that even though the bike was so hot it wasn't on constantly and only ran for a short time before stopping. Will also investigate the stator. Thanks guys.

Hoping someone can help! I have a 2013 sherco 290, whilst at a trial today, on the last lap is started to "pink" and loose power/run lumpy. It has done this a couple of times before but it stopped instantly once stopped and re-started (i thought it may be something to do with the map switch as i've knocked it a couple of times/changed settings whilst riding along) Today it was over heating without a doubt, i stopped the bike and pushed back to the van. Upon inspection this evening it seems that the coolant level is just over the fins within the radiator but i'd say this has dropped slightly since i last checked. When the bikes was very hot, i could actually smell it! The fan was not constantly on however which i thought it would be? I've cleaned the carb out, checked the plug which appears to be ok. Could this be a fan/thermostat switch issue on a bike this new? Thanks Hugh

Thanks guy's, I ran the bike up with fresh oil today, got it up to temperature and drained the oil, looks ok now. The coolant is green and the level deffo hasn't dropped in the rad as it's right near the top when cool. I think it was just how long it has sat for and possibly washing but i'll keep an eye on it. I spoke to a friend today with a 2012 bike and he gets the same with the same oil (ipone) if left for 4-5 rides or if it's sat not used for a long time.

Hi everyone, My bike has sat un-used for 1-2 months, previous to this it had done 3 rides and would normally get an oil change. I rode it yesterday and changed the oil this evening. The colour of the oil i drained out was similar to the colour of Baileys liquor, maybe a little darker. I'm guessing this mean's water in the oil? I've checked the coolant level, with the bike upright it's about 5-10mm from the top. I also measure what came out of the bike, although it was drained into a dirty oil pan and that was about 500ml. Could a water pump seal go this quickly? The bike hasn't seen much use, could it possibly be condensation? Thanks Hugh

Gas Gas probably want the model pushed/advertised as I believe it is due out shortly.

Ferrer renewed his contract too i believe.

Hi, Hoping someone can help.... I've had my new sherco for a few weeks and noticed after the first ride a little oil residue near the slave cylinder lower bolt and on the engine casing (very small amount). Today upon closer inspection i noticed that the o-ring that seals the slave cylinder casing to the engine casing was moving slightly when the clutch lever is pulled. I removed the slave cylinder and found the seal had been broken upon installation...no big deal as it's only a £0.60 part. However the oil was engine oil, should engine oil be in this area or should it be sealed within the engine and this seal is just designed to keep dirt/dust out? Thanks Hugh

Thanks Jan. I'll have to look into changing out the calliper then, looking quite expensive though!

jandyb, when you say ajp slave, do you mean an ajp brake calliper?

Hi everyone, Purchased my pro 250 new in June, the back brake was perfect until recently when it started to just about hit the frame when pressed. It always had a fair bit of travel anyway. I bled it properly and it was good again (still a fair bit of travel), a month or so on and 5-6 rides and it's getting back towards the frame, no visible leaks anywhere. Is it acceptable to adjust the push rod further up into the master cylinder? There is a fair bit of slack there, however there is no locking nut on this, just the nut to raise or lower it. Thanks Hugh

Thanks for your help. I had a look again this evening. The standard gas gas cam has a recess machined into it which the s3 cams don't have meaning the axle bottoms out before it's taken up the tension. as i don't have a lathe anymore i've decided to purchase an aftermarket axle kit with tensioners. I've noticed the top Gas Gas guys are all using the old style axle kit too.

Hi everyone, I broke/crushed one of the standard snail cams on my 2012 pro so i purchased some s3 max cams. The cam that fits onto the drive side of the bike had to be pressed onto the enlarged ridge and i've done everything i normally do but i can't stop the axle from spinning! I only had this problem once with the original snail cams but after a quick clean up i didn't have a problem. Any tips? I can see a small gap between the swing arm and the wheel spacer on the drive side. Thanks

I'm running my 12" 250 on putoline light gear oil as recommended by Gas Gas uk.

Thanks guy's, went with the renthal, also found some older topics all recommending the same.

Hi guy's, recently picked up a new Gas Gas which has an iris chain as standard. Randomly came across a topic on here regarding the iris chains snapping etc and potentially causing damage to me and my bike so figured i'd replace it with a quality chain before it does! The question is, which one? I see renthal do the r1 and regina do a standard chain which most are branding as a trials chain. I had a regina fitted to my beta as standard which was great but it didn't have gold outer links so not sure which model it was? From what i can make out the renthal is going to be the stronger of the two but i don't want to create a huge amount of drag on the back wheel, do they make a noticeable difference over a standard weight chain? Thanks Hugh