heathy

As I said in my op I had already cut along the original welds, it seemed like an easy job before I started. Obviousley not. I now know for next time and would advise anyone to just cut a window in the back of the exhaust! The only thing with a sherco exhaust it that there is a devider welded on the inside of the back so how would you get that out? unless you cut two windows

I am trying to decide wether of not to buy a new silencer, Does anyone know where I can get one for a good price? I have phoned malcolm rathmell and he said

I haven't been to flavels yet, still trying to split it I was thinking about getting a new one but it depends how much it is going to cost to repack this one, luckily it doesn't really matter what it looks like on a sherco because you can hardly see any of the exhaust anyway

I have not been to the welding shop yet, should get there at the weekend. I only explained to him over the phone what needed doing and he said around

Not a bad idea ishy, only joking. I know it sounds like a stupid idea but I have seen mr2's with tow bars on and as I read on here somewhere, somebody seen a mini with a crosser on the back I wouldn't go that far, but I just need a way to transport my bike with a mr2. I supose a trailer would be a better idea then it won't put so much weight on the car

I phoned flavells this morning they said it will be about

Yea the bike runs fine now well is has no exhaust but it will be fine once this is done if I ever get it apart

I have just drilled the holes bigger, to 10mm. I did use a regular drill bit but was careful to make sure the hole was round, I am not welding it back together myself, I am going to take it to a welding specialist. The silencer still seems stuck in the middle, I am guessing that the spot welds hole the plate in place which seperates the packing from the wire wool? Sorry I got it wrong in my last post there are actually 5 welds, 4 on the front and one on the bottom.

Sorry spot welds not rivets (thought they were rivets) There are 4 of them, I went up to a 8mm size drill bit not sure what that is in imperial measurements. I have seen the picture of yours that u did, I know it is too late now as I have already split mine, but how did you split yours, as yours looks a lot neater than mine Did it look as good as new when you welded it back together? or do you have a pic of the finished silencer? Chris I have already cut it along the original welds now, wish I had done it your way now it looks a lot easier and it looks neat, supose you wont even be able to see the weld when the heat shield is on. thanks

I cut my silencer open along the original welds and drilled out the rivets in the middle but it still seems to be stuck together in the middle Does anyone have any pictures of how they have done theirs? Is it worth repacking them or am I better off just buying a new one (wish I hadn't started it now ) Its stupid that they can't be disassembled because its obviousley going to need repacking a few times in the bikes life, supose its another way for sherco to make some extra cash

Malcolm Rathmell is the owner of malcolm rathmell sport, the uk sherco importer, you can contact him on 01423 772885 or have a look on his website here but i've just checked and it doesn't seem to be working

Hi stefan, its the mk2 mr2 that i'm after (1990-1999) thanks

I did find a tow bar for an mr2 on ebayhere so I know a tow bar can be fitted but, as martin said im not sure how low the car will be to the floor, especially when the car only weighs about a tonne and is rear wheel drive. I would only really use the mr2 to take the bike to the place I practice, I am able to park the car on a normal road and just ride the bike down the rough track.

I bought some spray adhesive from my local hardware shop, was only

I am currently looking for a toyota mr2 mk2, I know that there is a towbar avaliable for it but would it be possible to fit a bike rack to it?

RS... It was pressure tested by a plant hire company (gap group) as my dad was the manager there, the crank cases seemed ok and I carefully cleaned the mating surfaces with a razor blade befor re-assembly. Subira... I was thinking about asking white brothers to borrow a carb, but although I get on well with John Sunter I'm not sure other people there would be too happy about lending out a carb, Its only

Yea I split the motor and reassembled it with all new gaskets and a light coating of grease on the gaskets. It has been pressure tested and has no leaks. The bike had this problem before it was rebuilt and is the reason i had to rebuild it due to a siezure. I think the only think left that it can be is the carb now

I want to know what the problem is now no I havent changed the carb yet as I don't know a lot of riders in the area, a few of my mates have bikes but there crossers

I've worked on 2 stroke engines for around 8 years and my dad has worked on them for around 30 and neither of us can find the problem

Lol ...its bugging me too dabster, I know it should rev high with no load on it but it used to have a point (as with all 2-stroke engines) of maximum revs where you know you can rev it there for about 10 seconds and wouldn't expect it to sieze. At the minute I wouldn't even dare take it to the top of the rev range.

I have a pirelli on the back and I can safely say it is the worst tyre I have ever used, hardly any grip at all stick with michelins, or IRC which I have never tried but am going to try as a lot of people on this site recomend them

The best way I have found to put the airbox on is to remove the carb from the reed block, then pull it slightly towards the back wheel, spray a bit of WD40 inside the pipe if needed to make it slide on better. Now fit the airbox to the carb. Now push the airbox and carb forward and put the carb back in the reed block, tighten everything and your done. Easy!

Im just worried about siezing it up again because its very expensive to fix, I know it is normal for it to rev high when out of gear but it seems to rev a lot higher than it used to

I've been trying to get hold of another carb to test it, as there are not many riders around this estate (that I know of). It seems to be fine now when the engine has a load on it but when it is free from the gearbox it starts reving like mad

Sorry I forgot to mention, I did have the bike pressure tested and it has no leaks