zerorev3rev4

Not recomended

the right angled pipe is the feed from the reservoir pot,, , where the rubber bung is ( its just preventing dirt entering ) this is where the hydraulic high pressure pipe goes (one to caliper ),, unless there is an opening in the end which i can not see

fitting a flywheel weight would help if not fitted or retarding the timing if possible

is that pj engineering in wolverhampton if so i have also used them in the past and found there work and quality absolute top notch

think they are more for bolts and nuts ,at a quess i think hes removing an allen type bung ,,but the irwin rounded head removing sockets do work very well

if its the stand in the pic the front is a lot lower which could cause fuel to run into cylinder try leaving it on the flat ,,,did it use to start ok could there be water in the fuel plug on way out ? jets need cleaning out ?

as above try a new condensor but do away with one on stator ( could just snip wire through flywheel hole ) and fit one under tank an old mini mg or beatle type will do and mount to frame this way it wont over heat and pack up ,get a good make one like lucas ,,, the new stator type on the shelf today arnt much good ,i take it points look ok and the wiring isnt earthing out

i wouldnt bother selling it far beta machine

should have kept the rev3

do a compression test if that ok use a car strobe light and see if the spark fails when engine cuts out sounds like condensor failing ie poor spark cant burn fuel and fouls plug thus stalling ,the problem is not necessarily the carb

are you sure it isnt the oil drain screw

was the fan working when over heating does fan work when bridging stat connectors when running ,is fan running correct direction is external of radiator reasonably clean (can air get through it ok ) as above running lean rear brake sticking head seals failing colour of plug could determin coolant getting into cylinder ,if the seals have gone you might get petrol smell or oil in the radiator ,, ive seen a cdi go bad on a late sherco causing bad timing and erattic spark resulting in over heating

very sorry to say but the problem is in the heading

are you sure its not just a tubeless tyre on tubed type rim front is original

engine number should be on top of centre crank cases poss under clutch arm end ( from memory ) boy shes got some crud on it lol ,, you can use a kikuni from a rev3 or techno beta and an airbox from ty175 modyfied or find one on ebay most parts can be found at inmotion i can forward copy of user manual ,, its an early cota 200 with later honda montesa front wheel with larger brake sorry it looks like a later one as i think i can see the frame engine guards in all that crud frame number looks like 29m02410

wouldnt of thought the seals would let it run for only a short time n then stop it from running they would tend to cause a lean mixture due to sucking in air which would cause it to rev high at tick over also if looking at seal behind flywheel it could be wet with fuel ,,, if g,box side seal gone it could cause oil to blow out breather or it could suck gear oil in and smoke badly ,, changing seals wouldnt be too difficult ,, i would how ever use a car type strobe light and see if it fails to light when the bike cuts out this will determin if loosing spark ,, if thats ok you need a compression tester ,check when cold then run untill stops and check again ,( it does sound like gummed or jammed rings you could remove front pipe to have a look ) if thats ok try putting fuel down the plug hole after its cut out and see if it can fire on that ,,, has it been stood prior to this problem ,, did anything happen on last ride ,has anyone borrowed it could there be water in the fuel does coolant look ok and have no bubbles or steam when it does run ( wondering if head gasket has gone ) this should keep you biusey for a little longer then report back have fun

cant see it grenading they usually can go on for long enough with rattles

could be piston slap or big end worn you could just keep using if not too bad and does not get much worse , this will give you time to work out if you like the sport and if the bike is worth fixing

looks like something sherco would of come up with ,but this is how modern parts are been made (crap) it looks like ther should be some housing maybe glued to the tank that it pushes into ,it looks like theres glue further up where its been glued in or is it 2 black seals if so then they need to fit into something that isnt there anymore

this was mine

did this a couple of years ago what a fun bike with great low centre of gravity and high ground clearence light and torquey

or try peter night from peterborough he builds rotax cart engines

Scorpa 125 4t could be converted to electric start

Oh and what do you mean by heat exchanger

running for a short time letting cool checking coolant level say 3 to 4 times then short steady rides allowing to cool inbetween again checking coolant also make sure fan works a little extra oil wont hurt but not much more then maybe a cuple of days steady riding and that should do i reckon