zerorev3rev4

google gas gas fan wiring and you will find diagrams for each year i recently did this but cant remember the site

you would after try gas gas uk look in trials and motocross ,,if previous owner told you it needed one due to a rattle it more than likely needs a new piston and cylinder recoat

try halfords or machine mart

sounds more like the rectifier , thermo switch should be inline in a hose or screwed into rad

i sold mine and realy miss it

could you clamp an old yoke to it and use that to hammer it out or try and turn it with wd40 in there

hi from what i can remember the mod is a longer shaft to prevent the kick start catching the frame

i sometimes weld a bolt in a blind bearing thread upwards then put a socket over it larger than the bearing and fit a nut and washer tighten it up and it will draw the bearing out

you need to warm it up ride along in 3rd poss 4th gear accelerater pull in clutch and apply rear brake when you get it working all at the same time ,,this should release the clutch ,sounds like it could be sucking air in or the crank seals could of gone hard ,but try adjusting mixture screw on side of carb

it does sound like piston slap what you are describing , little ends rarely give trouble just get blamed for piston slap all the time , it could be the big end (conrod ) ,you would need to remove cylinder and pull up and down on the rod keeping it pushed to one side to prevent rocking ,there should be no play here ,and get piston cyl measured while off , but like you say try head first

i use one for practice and friends without bikes trial it ,i converted to conventional forks and fitted fat bars and wide pegs ,its very robust and reliable sits in shed for months and always starts all you seem to ever need is service items ie pads tyres chain and bearings ,oh make sure clutch isnt slipping ,they can drag a bit aswell ,most parts can be found on that bay website

would be best to fit for a beginner ie softer power better traction less chance of getting into trouble , you can remove when you feel the need for a bit more power when you progress

hi can anyone let me know where to download or purchase a manual or parts diagrams for the ty250 monshock or pinky thanks

hi, its more than likely the stator or cdi breaking down i would remove them along with coil and send to a motorcycle electrics repair shop unless you can get hold of someones to try on youre bike

common problem on rev3 you might be able to fix by resetting float height or new needle valve , other wise lampkins drill them to prevent this

you will be best off removing swingarm and taking to a motor engineer that is used to this type of work as you can easily make a mess of this ,easy outs can work but at the same time they can widen the item been extracted tightening it , unless yo know someone that can mig a washer to it then a nut to washer but depends how deep it is ,just make sure the person doing it is competant

do you mean main crank bearings the big end is part of conrod kit

sounds like a jet blocked or fuel restricted poss slow running jet (small one ) as the passage is tiny in the sherco,s

does the flywheel not come off with the weight still on if not get someone to mig a washer to the allen bolt then a nut to the washer the heat will go through it and help it to undo aswell or try a dot punch and tap it round ,, more than likely is the stator the wires plug in in front of tank so remove tank top panel and side vents then you will see them its straight forward ,you will need a puller to remove flywheel ,after washing or using bike in wet remove the cover so it dries out ,,try west country windings and get it rewired ,they use heavier wire and are more reliable and cheaper than new

poss crank seals or do a compreesion test after it fails if ok try a strobe light on ht lead after it fails to determine if spark still present or run it with it on and see if light fails as engine dies

needs a compression test and if thats ok try a strobelight on when kicking with plug in as mentioned as spark can be breaking down under compression

depends on what type carb is on it if the screw is in the rear of carb it tends to add air when opening which leans the mixture ,if to the front it tends to richen when opened ,but if its an amal mk2 and poss mk 1 it richens when turned in with the screw been at the front

i take it its sparking ,, if it did rev up that sounds like it ran out of fuel and went lean ,but doesnt explain the wet plug that sounds like compression spark issue

make sure the castle hat on the cog align in the rear of basket then there is a spacer washer inside the castle top ,not sure if there is a washer inbetween the basket and clutch pack parts diagram isnt showing one but i seem to remember there been one and it can get out of line if you put the assembly on the shaft complete ,,

you need an old car type strobe light to check the timing one with adjustable degree,s on it is good ,or you might find a factory mark to align it to ,, personally id go bigger on the main jet and get the plug more brown looking 100 seems small for a 320 i am using 145 in a 175 trials bike , you will know if its rich as it will get spluttery then work down from there untill it cleans up ,its better to be slightly rich than lean especially if trail riding ,, the air screw is only for first 1/8" throttle position and will have no afect on higher revs