peterh

Have you tried cutting back on the number of turns of wire around the spark plug lead. Too many may cause too great an inductive pickup and amplify the revs. This is the advice from another brand of tacho that uses the same approach. Try 2 tuns only - what do you get? But heck, how many turns is going to be determined by what looks to be correct - so maybe the ear is the best truth.

Great Bikes!! I have had 2014 and now a 2015 JTG 250 after Betas. Instead of grinding the stops on the triple clamps, I took 3.5mm off the stops on the frame with a dremel. Plenty of metal available and doesn't weaken the stops on the triple clamps. I have used 100:1 and 80:1 (and likely to stick with that) and repacked the exhaust in a fellow riders 2013 and my 2014. Bit of a job to do the first time, but should be easier now. I also fitted Boyesen Reeds to the 2014 - good outcome. I have used Putoline GP10 in the gearbox and changed regularly (no more than 10hours) but note that it has a low viscosity index so from my understanding changes to temperature quite rapidly compared with GRO or others with higher viscosity index here in Western Australia I can be riding in the summer at 30+°C).. Am currently trialing an ATF with similar 40° and 100°C viscosity ratings as Putoline GP10 but similar (or close) Viscosity Index as GRO (and somewhat cheaper ie 50% cheaper). I do not mind changing the gear oil on a regular basis as is so easy (ie less messy) compared with previous bikes. Love the suspension and particularly the ease to maintain all the linkages - No more dogbones!!

Hi, I have a 2015 and just sold my 2014 Jotagas (in Western Australia) - parts supply is good through your local state agent or through the importer - thehellteam.com Great bikes, you will enjoy.

Ouch - looks like I better get the trigonometry calculator out - is it "bottoming out"? most probably not the shock damper itself but is it the rate of compression and spring loading or does the V-link go over centre and cause the clunk of the larger base on the Elka shock on certain types of landing. Yes, I know, I should ride better off rock ledges to avoid the clunk - but I am not perfect all of the time . Maybe I need to tighten up the spring and adjust the damping (as previous I am 71-74kg). Any one give some any guidance on what sag they have set for their shock and/or what setting (clicks from fully anti-clockwise) of damping might be interesting to share. Here are two pics of the current V-link. I can see that as it came from the factory it was already milled out to accommodate the larger diameter of the Elka shock (which looks different than sliks and then a dremel has removed more material but looking closely the outside link is the one that has a contact point on it, so it still clunks. I never had to touch the Olle shock on my 2014 Jotagas 250 - so now needing to think more. I am happy to work through a solution where it is possible. Thanks for all the tips and thoughts so far. Doubt that the cheque book holder will oblige with an Ohlins. Cheers

I am obviously biased as I own a 2014 and now a 2015 Jotagas. Great bike, love the suspension and the tracking of that to the ground and the tractability and low down torque or maybe it just suits my riding. Easy bike to keep clean as so much more open around the engine than other bikes I have owned. Also like being able to easily maintain the suspension, so easy to take off the shock and look after the bearings - sure beats dogbones. I also like the engine characteristics or is it the mating of the engine to the suspension. Yes, I have done some fiddling and tweaking (isn't that why we buy a bike) and fitted Boyesen Reeds to the 2014 and may do the same to the 2015. Also took the dremel to the frame to improve the turning circle (3.5mm off the frame works a treat). So yes, I would buy a Jotagas and if people don't then how can manufacturers keep in business - most bikes are well beyond most of our capabilities but we all have our own preferences - with none of us actually perfect. My comments are also made with being downunder in Western Australia and not having the expectation that the motorcycle shop down the road will have every bike or part I might need. My perception is that those closer to manufacturers in the northern hemisphere are a little spoilt - boy the joys of easy access to the range of availability. Ultimately, we each need to enjoy our sport and supporting diversity is not a bad thing, no bike is perfect, just some riders are more perfect than me.

Hi, I have recently bought a 2015 JGas 250 with the Elka Shock. It appears that the lower shock body is too close to the V linkage system such that on some landings the lower body bottoms out on the V linkage system. Has anyone else had that problem? I notice that the red V linkage system has been milled out more comparative to my 2014 Jotagas 250 so it appears that the lack of room is acknowledged but has anyone else found a best solution? I could dremel out the linkage to make more room but maybe there is an alternative. I weigh 71 - 74 Kg (depending on how much Christmas cake was eaten) and I have assessed the rider sag and wound the spring up one full turn on the adjuster. I notice the 2016 model has gone back to the Olle shock. Any impressions and thoughts appreciated. thanks.

After installing Boyesen Reeds in my previous Beta Evos (both with Keihin 28PWK carbs) I have followed the instructions on this link, written for Miknui and Keihin carbs (on Lambretta scooters) and found this process easy to work with rather than doing the plug chop method in my suburban street!! So irrespective of age of bike and engine the principles should still be the same. http://www.smellofde...ydy/jetting.htm Note that the guide starts with the needle clip in the middle position and changes are then made around that starting position. So getting the pilot and needle correct without any influence from the main jet (or making me understand when the main jet circuit was coming into play) worked well for me. Having then set it up on the stand, then take it to your favourite practice ground and you can then test it on sections you are familiar with plus/minus doing plug chops through the various ranges. This helps refine the jet settings for the load and type of riding you do, but doing it first on the stand gets you a very good baseline to work with.

If you want extra low down power and torque, put Boyesen reeds in and tweak the carby. I did that to my Evo 125 and Evo 200 and that gave extra low down pulling power.

I am wanting to repack my rear section - does the centre pipe that the packing is around pull out (like my Beta did) or is it a pick and pull all the old packing out? Did not want to pull too hard on the pipe so left it alone until I found out.

Agree with Dan Williams - I have paralled mine on the bikes I have had, so I can use the standard push button for usual stopping but have the lanyard (compulsory here in Australia) and it has worked a treat on the occasions when I decide to step off and let the bike achieve what it wants to do. All the so called negatives don't match the positives and saving the engine, spectators etc. I can reach down and shut the choke off and I have the elastic one and have never had it come off and hit me in my face - but even if it did likely to be a small little thing compared to some of the bruises that we tell the tale of on Tuesdays. We all now wear helmets whereas nothing was needed in the 70's and early 80's - we were either a lot safer or had thicker skulls back then - oh and a lot younger too??

All the best with sorting it out and with the healing of your toe. Your English is far better than my Greek so no need to apologise.

Slik (Stathis) - I have a 2014 250 (NOT a 300) but here are my jet sizes for the Dellorto: Main 120; Choke 60; Pilot 35; Needle valve 200, Needle D36, and slide 60 - if my eyesight is good enough. I did fit Boyesen Dual Stage Reeds - had used Boyesens in other bikes and liked the results. So fitted them to my Jotagas. In fitting the Boyesen Reeds I also dropped the needle by one clip and set the mixture screw accordingly. After suggestion from Australian Distributor we have been running the Champion RCJ8Y and after trying both the recommended NGK BPMR6Y and the Champion and swapping between them, am confident that the Champion does make a difference in making the response crisper in that just off idle gentle twist of the throttle. After telecat (on the forums here) suggestion, I have opened up the plug gap to 0.93mm. I think this does make a slight difference. I am going to try an NGK BPMR6Y plug with the grooved centre electrode - just because I thought I would. I do run 100:1 using 98 Octane. I have a nice coffee coloured spark plug through the full range. I do like to give the bike a good run up a track at end of practice or a trial to reduce build up of residue oil in exhaust and clean the plug of any soot - particularly if practice is lots of just off idle riding - or maybe I just like a good blast. I use the No-Toil air cleaner oil system which not only makes cleaning the air filter easy (and therefore no excuse for not cleaning it very regularly) but also easy to work with to get a nice even oil spread through the filter and not over oil the filter. Mine runs crisp and no longer has the slight fluttery feeling just off idle. It is a great bike and very happy with it.

Just what boyesen dual stage reeds will do. That was my experience. Much improved low down torque and crispness from idle. But did require changing jets and needle with it. The bike ran well before i put in the boyesens, but the reeds added to enjoyment.

Boyesen Reeds. I used the dual stage power reeds to good effect on a 2010 evo 125 and also 2012 evo 200. Search these forums for others experiences. Did need to do some rejetting to optimise.

Yes! Had the same sort of ideas - transponders on each bike (heck they use them in motocross) and the transponder starts as soon as enter the section to send the rider number to the observer's waterproof shock-proof unbreakable mini-tablet and also sets the 90s timer which stops when passes the end flags or times out for a 5. Observer punches the score and rider gets it on their little screen and transmitted or data-logged as previous post - Ahhhhh - problem arises - not so much with the technology, that is all achievable - but still relies on having ready supply of observers. So may be no greater advantage than punch cards or rite in rain paper as observers are the most valuable resource that need to be valued, respected and trusted and keep them dry and warm in the wet - just like modern technology.

I can't give information on the specific pin spanner etc, but do make sure you release the forks from the triple clamp or at minimum the top clamps as the top clamps will also tighten the top of the fork against the fork cap. My experience is that the fork caps release easily once the top clamp is released as the tightening torque is not very high - particularly given the light aluminium construction. Best not to try to loosen them before you have released the top clams as that is when you will use excessive force and damage the fork caps.

I run 100:1 synthetic (GRO) with no problems and having seen the oil collection around the piston skirt and crank after idling and pottering at trials like revs, I was amazed at the amount of oil that lined everything. I am down under in Oz and have not had a problem with parts, so I suspect much of it depends on your dealer not the factory or suppliers to the factory (given the similarity in common parts used across similar marques). Ride and Enjoy.

As an update. I did fit Boyesen Dual Stage Reeds to my 2014 JT250 with the Dellorto carb. It has made the bottom end slightly crisper and seems smoother all the way through rev range. Very slight adjustment to mixture screw to adjust low idle. After an hour or so of fiddly turns, steps, double blips etc etc the plug centre was pretty good with centre electrode still darker coffee colour and a plug chop at full throttle shows a lovely coffee colour - using Champion RCJ8Y plug 0.8mm gap. I had previously lowered the needle by one step which had already decreased a bit of flutter through quarter throttle. So very happy with outcome and no fiddling with different jet sizes, needles etc.

Be different. Get one. You will be impressed.

Thanks telecat. Did you add boyesen before or after putting th keihin PWK on? I am thinking that with the dellorto that I should be able to leave slow jet alone and adjust the fuel mix at idle easily by the fuel mix screw given that normal is about 3 turns out, so by less turns will be able to compensate for the usual increased richness when running with the dual stage boyesens. I have previously put boyesens in my Beta Evos to good effect, but had to change jehtts to optimise it. Your experience is what I would like to achieve in just making the bottom end a little crisper, which is what Steve Saunders also said was the effect. Thanks.

So if staying with the standard Dellorto PHBL26 on a 2014 JT250 and if putting Boyesen Dual Stage Reeds in, what jets and needle settings might be suggested.

Sounds just like my journey. Rode in late 70's and into the later parts of 80's - Tl125, Tl250, Cota 348, Cota 200, Cota 242. Kids came along, forgot to go to events, sold the bike and then 19 years later went to watch a local club trial and caught the bug again. Same question you have - started back on a Fantic 245 - great bike, lots of traction etc, and then had a ride on a 2008 Beta Evo 125 and sold the Fantic as trials was so much easier and fun with the light nimble Beta Evo 125. Bought a 2009/10 Evo 125 and learnt to ride trials again. A year on, a 2012 Beta Evo 200 graced the garage and 2 years later a 2014 Jotagas 250. Thinking back though, would I have chosen the Beta Evo 125 straight off - most probably not as the thought was to just have some fun, ride a bit etc etc but best thing I did was buy that Evo 125 as it taught me much more about good riding and besides it was ~20kg lighter than the Fantic. Whatever you decide, decide for yourself but warn the other half that it might not be "the last bike I will ever need". Importantly get out and have fun.

Improved turning circle this weekend in my 2014 JT250 by using a Dremel tool to take 3.5mm out of the frame area where the stops on the triple clamp abut. Decided this was a better idea than cutting off the stops. Also faced the triple clamp stops up so that there was full face contact with the modded frame stops. Made a nice difference in tight turns - saves me getting the fives when my feeble attempts at hopping the back wheel around fail.

Go for a JTG 250. Very willing, capable and will not dissapoint. But of course we all have our biases and preferences. An odd comparison that I have found compared with my previous Beta Evos is that my Jotagas 250 is easier to clean, particularly around the motor and ease of maintenance of suspension & oil change and air filter. But those may not be things that help you choose a bike that suits your riding preferences. Just my uncrabby personal biased opinion that may not account for much.

Huski - go for a 2014, you will not be disappointed or even earlier they all have their strengths. But heck, you lot up in the northen hemisphere are spoiled. Patience is a virtue when you live downunder. The slow boat from Spain does take a while and there are many ports and hands in between over which the importer and thus agents have no control. But since trials riders are well balanced people we take it all in our stride (or was that a dab). All good things come to those who wait - except for no-stop trials.