peterh

Great post Gasgas249K. Heck 190 miles - you should try 3950Kms from the Australian Importer (Sydney based) and parts and they are 17,00kms from Spain. Sure the local agent in Perth (fellow trials rider - and home based business) carries those most likely things to break at my level of riding skill i.e. rear brake lever and gear change lever, but the rest is an e-mail and 2-3 days delivery from one side of Australia to the other. Excellent and quick service. Other parts like clutch and front brake lever, grips, brake pads etc are easily available from local m/bike or other home business trials suppliers or if needed other mail order suppliers. Heck I have got riding shirt from Steve Saunders in UK with excellent service.

Interesting about spark plug gap. The Australian importer has found and recommended me and others to run Champion RCJ8Y rather than the standard NGK plug as they had found this helped with a bit of the "flutter" from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Having one that, I agree, even after dropping the needle to 3rd from top (mid range). All runs well. Makes me think that maybe I just needed to increase the plug gap in the standard NGK. Interesting. Might have to try. Like many of us, we like to think that getting more from the engine will improve our riding and create less dabs. And I am guilty as I fitted and rejetted my Beta Evo 125 and 200 with Boyesen reeds (both with PWK carbs) and know they made a difference to engine performance and perhaps helped my riding (or that is how I justified to my wife), but then again a more skilled rider would still ride the out of the box bike better than I am likely to do. Heck may be I might even fit Boyesen Reeds to my Jotagas - perhaps when I want to fiddle than ride, but in essence, out of the crate the bike is more than capable, and reading and viewing photos of Chris from telecast's messages makes me realise I have a long way to go with standard out of the crate bike before I should consider thinking that tweaking the bike further will make me a better rider. After all actual practice makes perfect.

Thanks for all the replies and information and vote. It is always interesting to hear of interpretations and deliberations and I agree we do not want the rules to expand further and further to cover every possibility and perhaps as suggested if it is not in the rules then all is okay. Yes, it was a judgement call, and dadof2 described the way the boundary tape (positioned at 30cm off the ground and not loose) caught on the tread blocks and brought the now stretched boundary tape forward over the top of the wheel/tyre so it now essentially ran across the swingarm and forward of the rear axle - and michael-t's perspective was what was going through my mind as I watched the tape progressively be pulled up and over the rear wheel. I felt I had to make a decision rather than wait and see or hope that the rider broke the tape or failed the splat jump or failed somewhere else in the section, so I did not have to worry about my confusion with regard the tape being pulled forward of the rear axle - note that the event was a Championship event. What transpired was that the rider queried (without anger or challenge, but more surprise) the decision and explained his perspective and as there was confusion and maybe I was hasty and maybe the rider may have broken the tape as he cleared it, I decided that in the circumstance I had potentially prevented him making a bona-fide attempt due to my confusion or haste and I called a baulk and allowed a re-run taking into account marks lost prior to that point of baulk and the section observed from the point of the "baulk". I let the Clerk of Course know of the incident and all is happy and good. As a note, the rider did not clean the section thus there was also no advantage to the rider by calling the baulk. And the rider and I will ride together another day. None of us are perfect. Thanks all for your contributions.

At a recent trial, I was observer for a stop allowed trial. For the A Grade (or expert) riders on one section they had to come in at a right angle to the end of a large log (about 1.5m high), hop the back wheel around and/or hop the front around so they were then directly in line with the end of the log prior to a splat top get on top. The space was tight such that there was a bike length +300mm between the boundary tape and the log. In positioning the rear wheel and without rolling backwards the white tape got caught on the tyre and as the rider was positioning and inching forward the tape moved with the wheel up and eventually the tape was such that it was now in front of the rear axle. The tape had not broken, which would have been a five. As the tape was now in front of the rear axle, in essence it looked like the rear wheel was half out of the line of the section, if in fact the tape defined the boundary. I called a five at that stage based on the premise that the boundary tape was in front of the rear axle and thus the rear wheel had crossed over the boundary created by the tape. The rider while balancing was trying to dislodge the tape with his foot. As I had called five, the rider claimed that as long as he did not break the tape he was allowed to dislodge the tape - fair enough, but the tape defining the boundary was now in front of the rear axle. Was I correct in calling a five?

Even downunder in Oz there is good support and spares. A great bike, very forgiving and confidence building.

I did what Dan did and when that eventually popped off, I used some SuperGlue between the spread of old glue and the plastic fender and then clamped with tiny clamps and iceblock wooden sticks for a few hours. This seemed to work well. So essentially superglueing the spread of glue to the plastic of the fender.

You could invest in a CLAKE - combination clutch and rear brake in one on the handlebars - www.clake.com.au - with settings for initiation and overlap set by different cams.

Shortened the fuel line to the carby on my 2014 JT250. My fuel line looped up from the exit from the tap and then down to the carby. Having had a face plant fall off and had the bike on its side with a kink in the throttle cable and magnetic lanyard still attached, it had a sustained rev (but not wide open throttle) - the bike stopped itself by a hot seize ?. Seemed a very odd and expensive seize, but wondered whether it got fuel starved while revving because of difficult routing of the fuel line not feeding under gravity. I will try my best not to repeat the exercise so hopefully will never know whether the loopy fuel line could have contributed. But now having cut about 20mm off, the fuel line runs direct to the carby inlet banjo. Just a thought, maybe check your's to see whether it runs direct or goes in a loop upwards from the tap and then down to carby.

Beta USA. http://www.betausa.com/node/708

-----------------------Also I use Putoline Gp10 gear oil and like it for lightness and progressiveness of clutch and virtually no cold grab.

Mine also was never tight. Did use blue loctite. But eventually it stayed a little slack which meant that it did have some give in it when it hot a rock etc. My original Beta rubber pad did not last long, so I found some cheap mushroom shaped rubber stoppers at our local rubber shop (www.clarkrubber.com.au/mushroom-buffers.html) and the stalk was 10mm diameter so I just prepared several of them (so i had spares) to be close to 8mm and squezzed it into the little bracket on the stand and they worked well and lasted for ages. Or could drill hole in bracket to be 9.5mm or less so the stalk would squeeze in without modification. They do need to be tight. Cheapest trials part ever! Of course many will recommend taking the stand off, but I liked the convenience.

According to Service Manual - http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals.htm - 2.5mm is the recommended minimum. Have you done the Beta Clutch Fix - see pinned to the top. highly recommended. After doing that job, clutch is progressive, limited if any clutch drag and can find neutral going up from 1st or down from 2nd.

The instructions I got with Boyesen dual stage reeds that I fitted to Evo 125 and then 2012 Evo 200 (PWK 28mm Keihin carb)was that the "Boyesen reeds tend to make engines run rich, with the main jet being most affected". I ended up with a slightly different needle (jjj) and with the needle in the third position (middle), one step down on both main (122) and pilot (45). But to achieve that I followed a logical process and also used a spreadsheet from JDJetting that modelled the fuel flow. The process I used worked for me (search the forum and you should find previous posts) and then confirmed and adjusted with riding - note we ride basically at sea-level (no more than 400m alt). For example, on the stand the ideal was 2-sizes down on the main, but wanted to be sure that on long runs between sections that the main was slightly richer so went up one more size (up to 122). May be different with the 300 of course and all bikes may be different as well. Also, if not genuine Keihin jets there may be differences in quality control of the size of the jet - so I am told.

I agree with paulmac as regards the dual stage. Put dual stage in 2009 Beta Evo 125 and 2012 Evo 200. Adjusted jets and needle etc and agree with paulmac's assessment. Very worthwhile outcome for those bikes.

8mm Hex - 10Nm tightening torque from 2010-2011 Beta Workshop Manual. But I admit to not having used the torque wrench on mine but just nipped it up tight so it does not leak.

What is the advantage? Hopefully less dabs. You got to ride one to appreciate. Straight from the factory with no changes in settings, I have found the suspension superb. Very forgiving, follows the terrain, helps with grip and gives confidence - covering all things from random rock beds to rock steps to soft sand banks. Other big advantage - so easy to work on - less links, easy access, easy to maintain the links, O-rings and bearings.

I have had both a 2009/2010 Beta Evo 125 and 2012 Beta Evo 200 - put Boyesen Reeds in both which gave both improvements in bottom end and responsiveness. Both more than capable - I agree, go the Beta Evo 200 - ideally the 2012+ model, as has the Keihin Carb

Everybody will have their preference and ultimately it needs to be a bike that suits you. A Beta 200 could just be the bike you need - but that is just an opinion. Too many factors to consider to make the correct choice for somebody else. My experience in getting back to trials after 19 years away (having up to that time gone from TL125, TY250A, TL250, Montesa Cota 348, Cota 200 and Cota 242) was to get aboard a Fantic 245 (aircooled monoshock) but 3 months later, one ride of a 2009 Beta Evo 125 convinced me of the lightness, ease and fun that the modern bike was and with the 125 it gave me all the opportunity to learn how to ride again without throwing me into trouble. But having caught the bug again, a year later was a brand new Beta Evo 200. Takes me everywhere I need to go and more than capable - more capable than me, if the truth be told. But then again a nice new shiny Jotagas beckons! The bug will get you in the end!! Whatever you get now, you are likely to look to the next!

I think I remember my first set of Boyesen Reeds instructions said that they made the main rich and pilot lean. But that didn't seem to work for me at the time and I went back to basics to optimise jets and then my next set of reeds with instructions say that they make engines run rich with main jet most affected, and found with setting needle and jets as per the process I had found, have ended up with all settings leaner. I also fitted the Boyesen X-Power Wing which may (hopefully) made a difference too. Bel-Ray MC-1 is listed on the Bel-Ray site http://www.belray.com/powersports/products/2-stroke-oils used with 98 Octane Unleaded.

Hi - sorry about delay getting back - plum pudding got in the way! The original settings for my 2012 Evo 200 (2012 model now comes with the Keihin PWK28 carb) were Pilot Jet 48, Main Jet 125, Needle size jjh and set on the 4th clip from the top. (this I also see is the standard jetting for the 2009 Evo 250) as delivered by the factory. After Boyesen Reeds and working through the various throttle ranges and transitions and also use of a spreadsheet from James Dean Jetting - (JDJetting) and then riding in the usual terrain the following are my current settings. Pilot Jet 45, Main Jet 122, Needle size jjj and set on the 3rd clip from the top (ie the middle). Air screw is 1.5 turns out from seated. I ride mainly close to sea level (not more than 400m above sea level) and use mixture of 80:1 Belray MC1. I also use an NGK BR7E-IX iridium which to me seems to help give a very nice consistent idle - but may be I just want to find something worth the expense . However, this is what suits my motor/carby combination and each bike may be different. Good luck and keep those feet up.

Agree with Dan - do the simple things first as far as cleaning the jets particularly the pilot. Has the bike always run the way you describe or is this recent. If it is a recent change, then likely to be something has changed and thus could be dirt/water blocking jets - if it is carby related. I have installed Boyesen dual stage reeds to 2009 Beta Evo 125 and 2012 Evo 200 and on both bikes the greatest benefit is low down torque and also responsiveness throughout the range - all assisted by good needle and jet settings. In fitting my sets of Boyesen reeds, I have followed the instructions on this link, written for Miknui and Keihin carbs (on Lambretta scooters) and found this process easy to work with rather than doing the plug chop method in my suburban street!! http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/jetting.htm Note that the guide starts with the needle clip in the middle position and changes are then made around that starting position. So getting the pilot and needle correct without any influence from the main jet (or making me understand when the main jet circuit was coming into play) worked well for me. Having then set it up on the stand, then take it to your favourite practice ground and you can then test it on sections you are familiar with plus/minus doing plug chops through the various ranges. This helps refine the jet settings for the load and type of riding you do, but doing it first on the stand gets you a very good baseline to work with. I have also used an excel spreadsheet software that allows you to graph the effect of different jet sizes and needles have on the various ranges of throttle and the transitions. But that is my obsessive compulsive stuff coming in to play there. Good luck

After cleaning pads etc, I use pbr anti-squeal disc pad adhesive - essentially a contact glue. Apply thinly on back of pad and ideally on the rim of the piston (more difficult), allow to touch dry until tacky, put them in, put the wheel and disc in and apply brake for a few seconds to allow bonding and all solved (well it was for me). Good thing is that now the pads are lightly glued to the piston (but please not too much glue as you do not want it squeezed around the piston edges). Makes wheel/disc removal and re-insertion easy and also not affected by water or horrors of horrors high-pressure washing as brake grease can be. Just my thoughts and personal experience. BUT, do what anotherfive suggests first.

The rev plate supplied with the Boyesen Reeds is a replacement for the original one. There is no need for the original. Just store it somewhere if ever you want to go back to original. I doubt you will, as once you have got needle and jets set up well, you will really appreciate what the Boyesen Reeds provide.

Yes, Jimmie - when I got back into to riding trials, my better half was quite glad that disc brakes were now on bikes. No more drying Montesa brakes pads in the oven. Well at least that way they worked for the first few minutes until they found water again. But now the No-toil airfilter literature says I can put my airfilter in with the washing. I might hold back on that one! Do not want to upset the cheque book holder .

from the kitchen draw - just clean it well before someone finds out! Cheap as plastic from anywhere though!