peterh

Yes - clockwise to close the airscrew and anticlockwise to open. At full in the bike will stutter, and stop if left too long - too rich. Back it out to 1.5 turns out as a starting position and then adjust 1/4 turn either in (clockwise - rich) or out (lean) to get the best idle. If you have to got out 2 or more then you have a different problem.

Lots of information available http://www.betamotor.com/en/support/manuals http://www.beta-uk.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=157

zippy might have problems pointing out the squirrels but other than that, a very wise and good investment - to save that motor racing off into 'big bang' territory.

Boyesen now advertise trials specific reeds - 1) super stock reeds to match OEM specifications; 2) their "power reeds" dual stage reeds (the ones I have fitted) ; and 3) carbon fibre reeds matched to specific trials bikes. http://boyesen.com/TRIALS

Have a go on a Beta Evo 200. Perfect bike - between the need to keep the revs on the 125 and having good low down torque. I had a n Evo 125 and loved it - and yes it was more capable than I, but the 200 gives just that bit more low down controllable pull.

I fitted Boyesen dual stage reeds (before they produced the trials specific ones) to a 09 Evo 125 and found they improved the low end torque/power and responsiveness at the low end without affecting top end. I followed a process of re-jetting the carb as well and was quite happy with the result. When I went to sell the bike, I put it all back to original specs and that was when I really noticed the difference - it had lost the low end responsiveness so immediately, replaced the Boyesen reeds and jets and clip position to my specs as I felt it was a much better bike with them in. I have subsequently put Boyesen dual stage in my 2012 Evo 200 and also happy - and had to re-jet the carb to compensate. But it is always hard to be completely objective as no dyno readings etc. - the most noticeable difference was taking them out of the 125 and setting back to original specs - the bike felt different. After all, I have to be able to justify the expense and time and fiddling to the "cheque book holder" - so perhaps I have to believe the bike is better!

Sounds similar stories abound. I got back to trials after 19 years, bought a Fantic 245 aircooled mono, but one ride on a Beta Evo 125 convinced me that modern was light, nimble and fun. Rode the 125 for a year and with suitable revs it went anywhere I wanted and was always light and nimble. But then bought a 2012 Beta Evo 200 and now riding C grade in WA. The bike can certainly do more than I am capable of (except in my dreams). Good low down torque, very friendly power without taking me into too many places I might prefer not to be. I have tweaked mine with Boyesen Reeds (dual stage before the new ones were released) which with some changes in jetting has given even more responsiveness down low and I put on a modified throttle - fast in initial stages to then normal slow domino. Works great for the quick steps without then racing away on me. The bike always gets up the splat walls I have tried - now I just got to learn to always stay on it. I have not found it lacking - it is usually me that is lacking. Other info - I weigh in at 70-74kg, so its not having to lug around too much of me.

One concern with the S3 with nylon bearing is that if you drop it on throttle side, the bar end sure protects but the throttle could still get stuck full on, as the bar end rotates with the throttle.

Hi, I have used the following process successfully with my Beta Evo's having also installed Boyesen Reeds. I found this process easy to work with rather than doing the throttle chop method (in surburbia). http://www.smellofde...ydy/jetting.htm Note that the guide starts with the needle clip in the middle position and changes are then made around that starting position. So getting the pilot and needle correct without any influence from the main jet (or making me understand when the main jet circuit was coming into play) worked well for me. Good luck.

I fitted a Delay progressive throttle to my 2012 Beta 200 - compromise between domino fast and slow. It has a quick response initially like the domino fast but then slower as you progress. Suits the terrain we ride here with lots of steps and rocks and dry logs so helps the double blip technique but then delays going to full blast too quickly and getting me into more trouble than I can get into all by myself. http://hellteam.bizarsoftware.com.au/delay-progressive-throttle.html - but may be out of stock.

Just spent today on this task on my 2012 Beta Evo 200cc. A long task but satisfying. Wow!! Started the bike, clicked it into gear and all there was, was a click and no clunk and wanting to lurch forward - the bit of cold stick has gone. Then out on to the cul-de-sac street and nice light clutch action, progressive and most astonishing of all, was to stop and click the bike into neutral from first or from 2nd gear - and I was only wearing sandals!! A job well worth doing - did all the plates but only polished the tabs on the aluminium plates as the tabs on the two metal plates look nice and smooth and true! I did not notice any increase in chatter. Left all six springs in and tensioned to 10Nm.

No-stopping that for smoothness and soul - oh yes, that goes for the riding too! Could almost have gone to the lyrics and music of "Everything old is new again".

Agree with all advice given. While 250cc is common across the makes, do consider the Beta 200 - can get in Rev3 or with a few saved up dollars aim for an Evo 200. More torque and low down power than a 125, but less instant revs and power than a 250 that may propel you into a more trouble than you want. The extra expense spent now may save you buying what seemed a good idea at the time to then realise that you can do better later on - it may just need a bit more convincing (or progress on that to do list around the house) of those who 'think they hold the cheque book'. Whatever you decide, you will enjoy! Good luck, have fun.

It is normally open and when the kill switch is pressed or when the lanyard magnetic top comes away from its base that closes the circuit to ground and stops the engine.

Yes, all is possible. I have done exactly what you are wanting to do on my 2012 Evo. Essentially It does not matter which wire you connect to which on the Yamaha type kill switch. I have also connected a magnetic lanyard type switch also in parallel so either pushing the kill switch or when the magnetic switch gets pulled off, the engine will stop. Having both gives flexibility in how to kill the engine. Yes, you can remove the assembly and tape up the connectors and feed them back under the seat. Be aware that when unmounting the assembly by the radiator, I had to loosen the radiator mounts and even the side frame mounts and then find a cable tie that holds the wire loom at the top right hand of the radiator/frame area. Hard to find but has to be cut to get the wires out. Took a while to work out why the wire loom would not come out. But all worked out in the end. Be patient and work it - it is a smll black cable tie that you are looking for. Also you need a space washer on the bottom right hand mount for the radiator when you remove the switch assembly to make up for the mount of the assembly. doesn't need anything special but is needed otherwise your radiator will not mount correctly and the mounting bolt will poke into your radiator core. Hope that helps.

I got back into trials a couple of years ago after 19 years away, so around same vintage as yourself and thought I would buy cheaper entry - Fantic 245 monoshock but within 3 months discovered the joys of a modern, nimble, light 2009 Beta Evo 125 and found it more than capable of everything I wanted it to do, and others could do a heap more - ie the bike far more capable than the rider, but then Santa provided a brand new 2012 Beta Evo 200cc earlier this year. Impressive bike - more low down torque and doesn't need the constant revs of the 125 and much softer power. Was put to me that the 125 and 250 are the rev-heads of the Beta range and the 200 and 290/300 are the tractors. Sure 300 will have a heap more torque and power but also needs a heap more control and is more than capable of taking you into places that you might not want to go at a pace that perhaps you may not prefer. Every rider will have their preferences and brand loyalty - perhaps seek out riders in your area and see what is popular and well supported. My suggestion is that big bore is not needed. Just have a look at what the Youth Class ride at World Rounds on a 125cc and know that any of the bikes are more than capable.

Absolutely - I have a 2012 Evo 200 - great bike. Feels light and nimble to handle. Good low down power and torque, enough power to tackle more than I want to tackle but not too much to handle to get me into too much trouble! Enjoy your bike!

But great to see the Fosters in the corner. Good cooling ale after the ride!

While the following link was written for Mikuni and Keihin carbs (andon Lambretta scooters) I have used it successfully wtih my Beta Evo's having also installed Boyesen Reeds. Some of the same principles will be likely with the Dellorto? I found this process easy to work with rather than diong the throttle chop method (in surburbia). http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/jetting.htm Note that the guide starts with the needle clip in the middle position and changes are then made around that starting position. So getting the pilot and needle correct without any influence from the main jet (or making me understand when the main jet circuit was coming into play) worked well for me. Good luck.

Totally agree with others - go for the 200. I have a 2012 Evo 200 having had a 2009 Evo 125 before that after a Fantic 245 after being away from trials for 19 years. I have largely ridden Club Class but have had a few trials riding C grade (in Oz). The 200 is more than capable. The Evo 125 is also a great bike, feels light, nimble and makes you use the bike and body and the revs to achieve things. You only have to look at the Youth class at WTC etc to appreciate that the 125s can do things that I don't want to attempt (or perhaps not capable of attempting). The 200 does have more low down torque than the 125 and is certainly not wanting for top end. It doesn't need the revs that the 125 did, It was put to me that the 125 and 250 were like a pair - they liked the revs, and the 200 and 290/300 were the other pairing - torquier low down. The potential advantage of the 200 is that compared to the 300 there is overall less power to control. I admit that I have tweaked mine a little with Boyesen Dual stage reeds and rejetted accordingly and also put a modified throttle on it - sort of equivalent to a Domino fast throttle in the early stages but a slow action equivalent in the later stages. Still working out whether I like it or not - potentially good for those short sharp steps from a stop without dialing in the full power too quickly.

Or go for a 200 - more low down torque that a 125 - softer power than the 280 and less power in the rev range than a 250 but less of a 125 as far as needing to dial it all on to ride what you may have been doing on the 280. I have just gone up to a 200 from a 125 - having got back into trials on a Fantic 245, after 19 years away and now moved up from Clubclass to C grade. The 125 feels very nimble and responsive (used a fast action throttle) but the 200 seems to pull me out of problems with less need to dial it all it all on. The 125 really helps learn the best way to get the most out of the bike and to use technique.

Other than the check for airleaks - did you use a new manifold gasket. Always wise as you can then be more confident that leaks should not occur. I suspect you have adjusted your airscrew already. Take the carby off and do a thorough clean with an aerosol carby cleaner and compressed air jet if you have access. It could be as simple as crud stuck in the pilot jet. But with the clip on the bottom groove then that will make the 1/8 to 3/4 throttle really rich. I fitted Boyesen Dual Action Power Reeds #6125 to my 2009 Evo 125 and in doing so, had to drop the main jet to 115 and slow jet to 45. The standard needle is a jjh and I had to drop that to 2nd clip from the top (it was in the 4th clip from top). However, I might have been better to go up one size in diameter of the needle to jjj and keep the needle in middle clip position. In setting my carb up I used these instructions http://www.smellofde...ydy/jetting.htm but subsequently have used a spreadsheet that gives graphs of how different jet sizes and needles interact - search for James Dean jetting. I have also now fitted Boyesen reeds to my 2012 Evo 200 (the 200's now come with the Keihin carby) and I have fitted a main jet of 118, slow jet of 45 and needle jjj in 3rd clip position. I was very pleased with the Evo 125 performance after I fitted the Boyesen Reeds. Good luck with problem solving, the result is worth it.

Have used SuperGlue to glue the OEM stuff back onto the plastic and use a series of small plastic grip clamps (and grease proof baking paper) to hold in place for a while and have also used hot glue gun to reinforce or extend OEM stuff. The SuperGlue works best if the OEM stuff is already lifted but be careful and only use little bits - it really is a case of more does NOT equal better and you don't want it running through the mesh onto the other side. Annoying to have to do this on a brand new 2012 bike.

Have now fitted Boyesen Reeds to my 2012 Beta Evo 200. Followed the procedure I used previously (see the link in previous post) and ended up lowering the needle to the 2nd clip position from top (thus leaning the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle response) and decreased the main jet from 125 to 118 - I should have tried a 115 size to convince myself that 115 was too lean, but 118 ran nicely through to full wide open throttle (WOT) so hopefully is all good. Did not decrease the pilot jet from the std 48 size but found that best 1/8th throttle position was with air screw out 2 1/4 turns out from fullly seated. The real test will be practicing at our Trials Park tomorrow.

Hi, I fitted Boyesen Reeds to my 2009 Evo 125 and as indicated by Boyesen it was running rich. I initially started re-jetting using plug chops but that was difficult to do in a suburbia streets. Ended up using the process as indicated at this website: Rejetting carb This process worked very well for me and it was very clear with each of the changes I needed to make. I ended up decreasing the pilot/slow jet by one size, lowering the needle to the 2nd clip from top to make it leaner (rather than changing needle diameter) and decreasing the main jet by 3 sizes. But expect that the 250 to be different, so best to get a couple of sizes smaller of the pilot/slow jet, and say 3 different smaller sizes for the main jet. Only change one size at a time. The result on the 125 was a crisp responsive and consistent response throughout the rev range and was a joy to ride. Hope that helps.