Quote, We use 200 PSI of nitrogen. Pressure is not critical however. Anything from 100 to 300 psi will work adequately. Nitrogen works best, but if it is not available you can use air.
Clutch drag on the 315 is a very common problem. Do a search on here it has been asked a massive, massive number of times over the last 20 years.
The problem is the stock smooth metal clutch plates, the fiber (friction) stock plates are fine.
Aftermarket dimpled metal plates are available from BVM, a company in England that ship everywhere in the world, highly recommended company.
A certain year of Honda CR250R also came with dimpled steel clutch plates, but the cost is much higher than the aftermarket dimpled metal plates. The CR250R and 315 used the same clutch.
Don't change the fiber plates they work fine.
Don't waste a lot of time trying a dozen different brands of oil as many on here will recommend, I tried them all with no improvement.
Install the dimpled metal plates and its fixed forever, simple.
On my Montesa 315 which I ride excusively in extreme type endures, I run 80.1 as recommended by Honda in my owners manual. Of course in enduro competition a bike is ridden at much greater sustained throttle openings.
After 9 years of this use I have had the top end apart for a look and everything looks like new. Run around 15 enduros a year, also lots of trail riding on this bike.
The Chinese electronics can be of poor quality. Some can be good but a large percentage don't work properly from new. I would sooner buy a used genuine Honda CDI off ebay for twice the money of a Chinese knockoff. Honda electrics are very high quality.
I agree with stan post #10, your carb has two pilot jets, one hidden deep beneath the outer one. You might not have discovered the second one (most don't) and its plugged.
Yes. to answer some of your questions. There are no markings or obvious external differences to identify the big fin cylinder ATC200X 1983-1985. I can tell the big fin at a glance, the best thing to do is look at photos from the top of the cylinder, if you don't know what a normal small fin looks like look on ebay at a xr200 or xl185 for sale, again from the top and then go back to ebay listings of the 200x and compare. I have just looked on us ebay and there are 4 or 5 genuine big fin cylinders on there right now.
Regarding cyl. heads you don't want the 200X cylinder head for a bunch of reasons, I don't have time to get into. You can use a xr200 or xl185 cylinder head for a big increase in power at midrange and higher. You will lose some off idle power and torque.
No reason not to use your tlr cam, unless its damaged. If you do want to use the mechanical spark advance setup off the ATC,XL,XR engines you can ( I do) it provides adjustability in timing the tlr setup does not. Your only option in cams if you do is the ATC cam, the XR and XL cam are too much for trials use.
All this cyl head and cam discussion is not nearly as important as increasing the compression to 10.1 same as xr200 as discussed last year on this thread.
You do not absolutely need a big fin cylinder, boring a standard cyl for a wiesco piston makes a huge difference.
A few years ago I got TLR Barnett Kevlar friction plates and springs from PDQ Motorcycle Developements
Clive would be very interested in your feelings on the barnetts after using them a while. Have heard mixed comments on their advantages on the two valve Honda.
I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method. However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex. What exactly is it? Is there just one type? If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?
Home Depot sell it in a tube that goes in a caulking gun. It really is the best way to repair a leaking tubeless rim.
Introduction from the Netherlands
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It is a 1998 Techno, my brother had one from new.