legaleagle

I had another shot on the Sherco today. Reckon it can be made to shift so much better than it is. The selector shaft is moving free enough and when on the stand without the engine running it's goes up and down through the box ok. Think I'll strip and clutch and do the beta clutch mod for starters. The owner of the bike won't be back for another week so it gives me some time to try and improve things.

After my Monty spat out a wheelbearing on Saturday - I was offered a loan of a mates 2010 sherco to compete in an event yesterday. The owner of the sherco looks after his bike to the point I was scared to damage it. It gets a service every month wether it needs it or not and is never hashed. Bike rode well and I had a good day. Now the bad bit - the gearbox was one of the worse I've tried in ages. Impossible to find neutral at a stop - very clonky and I've ended the day with a gear lever imprint in my boots - honest it's that heavy/hard to change. Once towards end of trial - I wasn't able to select 3rd - thing stuck in 2nd. I mentioned this on handing bike back - mate said it's always been like that since new! Question being is this normal or is a strip down required? Asking - the bike has always ran on putolene light gear oil. Cheers

There must be a problem. I tested a tyre yesterday that the owner had a problem with. Hit any rocks, curbs, 4x4 plank etc and the thing is going flat. Tried every pressure between 3 and 6 psi in half psi increments But not difference. Swapped it for a Michelin - problem solved on the spot.

Noticed new prices are knocking on the door of

Depends on the condition/state of the shock fitted. If it's completely knacked then anything would make an improvement. Bloody expensive though!!!!

Excellent clear footage - what editing software do you use?

When changing the oil - lean the bike over as far as possible. Once the oil stops running out - place bike on side stand for approx 10 minutes. After that - lean it right over again and you get another flow out the drain. Just try and get as much of the old stuff out as possible.

Just left free standing - reckon the puddle at end of play tonight is the size of a couple cd's.

This pipe is off a 2010 250 with light use under it's belt. Pipe has been sitting on it's end for about 3 hours.

First of all - sorry for showing my age here!!! But I remember back in the early 80's when blasting around on an RD250LC. 2 stroke oil wasn't what it was today and removing exhausts to de-coke them was an annual event in the search of trying to maintain the magic ton. It was a case of removing the pipes - blanking off one end and filling the pipe with some compound bought from a plumbers merchant - sad thing being I have no idea what the chemical was called!!!!! I can also remember it burned if it touched the skin and when poured down a drain afterwards - all sorts of 2 stroke gunge would go with it. Maybe someone with a better memory has tried similar and remembers what the stuff is called.

It was his first outing on the bike after purchase when it happened. Before that - bike appeared surprisingly clean and genuine but reckon it had spent it's life pottering in the sellers back garden. As said these things like a good blast.

Recently a mates 09 2.9 exhaust went up - the thing melted the exhaust guard, the rear mudguard and even lifted paint off the frame - maybe at the top end of the scale but all in pretty scary at the time. Rembering 2010 models have the fuel tank and exhaust sitting side by side - if it was my bike - I would be looking at cleaning the pipe out asap. Those shercos like to burn!

Also on 2010 bikes - the rear suspension linkage changed from bearings to bushes. The bushes do not have and seals and require stripping and greasing quite often. It's an easy job once you have done it once. I drop the gearbox oil every month and grease up the suspension at the same time. Also - I have found behind the stator cover to get wet - the water gets in through the cable penetration - fill this gap with a good sealant and remove the cover now and again to check there's no moisture - stators are expensive and don't like water.

Re-route your fuel tank vent to the handlebars from it's current position at rear shock - this stops the tank from emptying itself when the bike falls over. Also the coolant hose that runs behind the front pipe - cable tie some rubber sheet or similar round the coolant hose to protect it from the heat off the exhaust. Have seen a couple 2010's fry this pipe meaning day over.

No local dealers you can take it too? Stators are expensive - especially if your not 100% sure it might not be the problem.