pschrauber

As B40RT posted, try to get everything really sound, from engine, to exhaust, also airbox and air filter as these tend to be restrictive, A rebuild of the middel and end silencer is a good idea improve engine Response a lot and quite expensive if you can't do it by yourself. If the engines does rattle a bit and got a bit tired, a new conrod a rebore with a custom made next size piston is also an improvement for riding in general and an investment which emty the wallet easy. Too smooth running cables with teflon inliner, good brake pads with soft paddings, good rear shocks that suits your weight. Fork stanchions are they really straight or a bit off, if a bit off for better action you can let them straightened and rechromed and Special polished improves Action and you will have less stiction too, then you might too mount HFS air cartridges to the Forks to improve dampning and Rebound. Last not least an electronic ignition.

Opel Signalgrün is matching that the original Italjet color very well. I that color for repairs to my JT50 and two 350 Piumas I had back in the day: rattle can 2K color: https://www.123lack.de/2k-spruehdose-opel-signalgruen-308-autolack-glaenzend rattle can standard 1K color: http://www.safonov-autolack.com/spray/autolack/dupli-color/dupli_opel_308_signalgruen_1973-1977_spray_400_ml_7-0260_i192_25383_0.htm or complete cans: https://www.123lack.de/2k-autolack-opel-code-signalgruen-308 OPEL was part of GM back then so therefore the

I like to have the decompressor it makes starting much easier and does not stress the kick start mechanism so much. I think about putting one to my TXR too. The Rotax type decompression unit works very smooth much better then the Montesa type for example.

Just fork springs, to shock springs I wan't the thighter coil part of the spring being mounted as much up as possible so that debris can't build up between rear shock spring and rear shock body.

Rally black with satin dull finish from rattle cans is what you want to put to the fork legs if you want to keep it original. IMHO that matches best, just a thinner coat, no prep, no base coat, … that is the original Bultaco paint jop to all metal pieces painted black, and to blue not better either, the orihinal blue paint did chip off like hell.

Depending the bike and year of first registration I guess, as the corpo forestale was pleased when I met them last time in the mountains in 2016, The corpo forestale is a police belonging to the Carabinieri and responsible for forest, mountains and other nature area … http://www.corpoforestale.it/

As I know in Spain it is like in Italy so: - number plate in Italy can be a small one or the number directly attached painted to the rear fender, - lights front and rear, - a horn, - a mirror, a folding unit is sufficient! In Gemany add: - brake light rear and to modern bikes from 1990 at the front too, - lights with high, low, and parking lights! - standard number plate, - flashlights aka turning signals (if the bike is not made before 1962).

DID 520 ERT2 is what I use has tensile strength of 3680 kg which is good, very good but a bit heavier are DID 520 MX with 4060 kg. Standard Regina Gold has around 2000kg the best Regina Gold RX3 has 3400 kg of tensile strength, as stronger they are as less wear you have.

They where all works bikes and custom made so non of them where similar in build, the early Franke owned where 200cc models, later they had 250cc. Not only Franke rode them also Felix Krahnstöver from Celle. (Felix was 11 times German trials Champion, wrote a very good book about trials riding and was founder and editor of Trialsport now the oldes Trials related Magazine). Anyway here some pics, the first is a 200cc I thin which is very much likewise the Franke bike photo taken from beginning July in Lüneburg: Another one, from Brockhöfe in March 2015 or 2014: Also very interesting a Hercules with Sachs engine, they are kept in much original shape here A good article is in Trialsport #501 where a complete portrait of Gustav Franke and his Zündapp is reported in Trialsport Magazine as he turned 80 on 4.12.2017, The Zündapps where very modern in their days, the engine had very improved porting, carb was with Bing with accelerator pump, (Bella scooter) the fork had already hydraulic components with progressive dampning, then the super long swing arm and steep fork angle surplus the light weight.

Good to know! How does the engine run with the new ignition and how are the differences between the both set up's compared to the original point ignition? Did you mount it to the SWM Rotax engine or the TXR engine?

You might look up ebay worldwide especially US, UK and France for forks. Also Craiglist in US, Gumtree in Britain and Leboncoin in France. I like to work with what I have and when the stanchions are too shiny!, pitted with rust and also just a little bit bent (a few mm) or not straight. They get a new chrome finish and get straightened. There are companies in the UK that do that. O sent mine to a company in Germany: Wissing Hartchrom in Vellmar They are professionalists in hardchrome stuff from propellershafts for vessels to hydraulic shafts for digging maschines. Costs are not higher then a pair of NOS ones.

Not, working the battery solution is already used for the flashes for the techical TÜV test every two years. To any other riding with roadwork, the task is light's, stop light and horn in use, this can be easely looked up and tested by every police or forrestale as light's have to be switched on on the continent during the day!

Yes very nice, I have already asked about an enhanced version with additional coil for providing electricity for lights, a rear stop light and a horn at least, (minimum requirement for riding street legal on the continent)

Nice that is the old style clutch engagement lever with 7mm balls and steel lever arm. Do you have the more modern set up with 13mm balls and aluminum lever arm too?

I never trusted spray on filter oil it might be applied to little or too much which can cause clogging up Foamfilter with good filteroil is my personal choice, I also think it is much more frugal too.

That is a IT 350 a Piuma had white plastic and a black engine, had an Aluminium Kickstarter too!

I would not trust that set up, looks weird and unusual, also just think about driving with this thingy attached and a bike loaded over a bigger bump with 70mph. You might load a bicycle with that ... or give it back an buy a tiny trailer?

Great news what solved the issue when I might ask please. If the rear light is original try: Hughs Bultaco in USA, Orlando Calonder in Switzerland, or Hansjörg Pfahler in Germany, for a spare lens, otherwise try in Spain: Ivan Cirre cimes in my mind here.

Check the ignition first you might have a faulty Motoplat ignition, the fault can be either in the coil (fiited with incast electronics) or the stator also fitted with internal electronics in both are diodes build in which fail very easy. I hope you know how to measure if thes items are sound or not with a multimeter, if not, you have to use a multimeter with diode test, you can check the flow voltage of the diodes in both directions as a quick diagnosis. The attenuated current direction is the voltage drop with a milliamperesed sample current for example 527 MV and when the two cables (red and black) are exchanged, the flow voltage of the other diode (without 30 ohm resistor) is measured, the voltage drop (or the flow voltage of the diode) should then be about 500 millivolts! However, the specified flow voltages are only indicative, because they are also highly temperature dependent. However, if one of the two flow directions does not yield a reasonable reading or infinitely high flow voltage, the fault is clearly localized. I know heavy stuff and even more worse to translate in proper english … anyway I had the same problem and with a replacement of the diodes the bike run again.

First thing sounds strange but very important to all Bultacos: You have set the distance between points to exactly 0.4mm, this is more important then the right setting to TDC. Try to start the engine and then go through gears without chain on sprockets just to confirm it ia an engine problem.

The PO mentioned riders and observers, I can't stress enough easiest way to get first aid in first hand and fast too is to have some medic's and an Ambulance on site during the trials competitions. Some clubs even try to get contemporary vehicles to classic trials as seen here with a Mercedes flat nose ambulance truck and two ambulance girls ! You have to make something out of it … it should be a win win situation for everybody ! Modern ambulance (my club) work of course too:

We have at all trials from club level on the ambulance on site, with at least two Medic's and an ambulance van, the costs are covered by the signing fee, which is around 5€ per participant so a third of the 15€ the signing in costs. At our club training area we have a first aid box, a fire blanket and a big fire extinguisher on site, we even had to build an extinguishing well as there are no water pipelines near by. Both together gives a certain basic security , every driver's purpose is, of course, part of it too.

If the torx fix don't work, then I would suggest to grind a Slot (parallel groove) and use a big screwdriver, the thread might be shot, I would the insert a time sert thread form Würth, done so to the shock mount of my Sherpa. The SAE 90 oil works but AFT oil is the better stuff nowadays with less friction, drive socket, the bearing can be pulled out if you have a special bearing puller no big deal. If the speedo does not work I would recommend to check the inner cable it is mostly broken. .

They are ll the same as each has to spark a plug, and for example the famos plug Champion N12Y whiuch could be used for a Bultaco 350, SWM 320, Montesa 349, but too for these British cars: Austin Healey BJ7, BJ8 Jaguar XK120, XK140, XK150 Jaguar E-Type 1961 to 1971 XJ6 1969 to 1987 MG Midget 1500 Triumph Spitfire 1968 to 1980 Triumph TR7 Triumph GT6 So we might ask where is the biff? I personal think just look up the right voltage and that the capacitator is for a ignition and not a for a hoover.

Mmmmh I don't know which kind of trials you want to do: - modern trials, national: "Italiano e Centro Sud" the regional trials series Campionato: regioale Ligure, regionale Piemonte and Trofe Asi Piemonte, regionale Lombardo, regionale Triveneto - classic trials, "Trial Gr. 5 Trofeo" - trials riding in the high mountains / Motocavalcade or "Motoalpinismo" or "Mulatrial" Therefor (in own experience) do some homework before you ride, look up the trials you want to visit in advance and contact the club or event manager, the Italians are super strict with their rules* which too vary also, thus mean you might still need a "Tessera Sport" or a "Licenza superiore". Your bike might too have a road registration, "Registro Storico" may be even an international insurance, as most trials are held on public places. * Some of the Italian rules: Entering the sections (for example when visiting) is only permitted with a helmet on the head! - wearing of gloves is mandatory. Without gloves under certain circumstances no start! - Arm protection is required (long-sleeved clothing). also for hot days, do not forget about long sleeved but breathable Trial shirts!