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pschrauber

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Posts posted by pschrauber
 
 
  1. Great news what solved the issue when I might ask please.

    If the rear light is original try:

    Hughs Bultaco in USA,

    Orlando Calonder in Switzerland, or

    Hansjörg Pfahler in Germany,

    for a spare lens, otherwise try in Spain:

    Ivan Cirre cimes in my mind here.

     

     

     

  2. Check the ignition first you might have a faulty Motoplat ignition, the fault can be either in the coil (fiited with incast electronics) or the stator also fitted with internal electronics in both are diodes build in which fail very easy.

    I hope you know how to measure if thes items are sound or not with a multimeter, if not, you have to use a multimeter with diode test, you can check the flow voltage of the diodes in both directions as a quick diagnosis.

    The attenuated current direction is the voltage drop with a milliamperesed sample current for example 527 MV and when the two cables (red and black) are exchanged, the flow voltage of the other diode (without 30 ohm resistor) is measured, the voltage drop (or the flow voltage of the diode) should then be about 500 millivolts! However, the specified flow voltages are only indicative, because they are also highly temperature dependent. However, if one of the two flow directions does not yield a reasonable reading or infinitely high flow voltage, the fault is clearly localized.

     

    I know heavy stuff and even more worse to translate in proper english … anyway I had the same problem and with a replacement of the diodes the bike run again.

  3. First thing sounds strange but very important to all Bultacos:

    You have set the distance between points to exactly 0.4mm, this is more important then the right setting to TDC.

    Try to start the engine and then go through gears without chain on sprockets just to confirm it ia an engine problem.

     

  4. The PO mentioned riders and observers, I can't stress enough easiest way to get first aid in first hand and fast too is to have some medic's and an Ambulance on site during the trials competitions. Some clubs even try to get contemporary vehicles to classic trials as seen here with a Mercedes flat nose ambulance truck and two ambulance girls !

    You have to make something out of it … it should be a win win situation for everybody !w8wI2sx-fU0Ei0DwjzfLbZmssek3ZeCmEd8Jm2l1

    Modern ambulance (my club) work of course too:
    cWxB9fDAVyFLd2UXr8oSJRJWWOSY617cLzhrHInr

    • Like 1
  5. We have at all trials from club level on the ambulance on site, with at least two Medic's and an ambulance van, the costs are covered by the signing fee, which is around 5€ per participant so a third of the 15€ the signing in costs.

    At our club training area we have a first aid box, a fire blanket and a big fire extinguisher on site, we even had to build an extinguishing well as there are no water pipelines near by.

    Both together gives a certain basic security , every driver's purpose is, of course, part of it too.

  6. If the torx fix don't work, then I would suggest to grind a Slot (parallel groove) and use a big screwdriver, the thread might be shot, I would the insert a time sert thread form Würth, done so to the shock mount of my Sherpa.

    The SAE 90 oil works but AFT oil is the better stuff nowadays with less friction, drive socket, the bearing can be pulled out if you have a special bearing puller no big deal.

    If the speedo does not work I would recommend to check the inner cable it is mostly broken.

     

     

     

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  7. They are ll the same as each has to spark a plug, and for example the famos plug Champion N12Y whiuch could be used for a Bultaco 350, SWM 320, Montesa 349,
    but too for these British cars:

    Austin Healey BJ7, BJ8
    Jaguar XK120, XK140, XK150
    Jaguar E-Type 1961 to 1971
    XJ6 1969 to 1987
    MG Midget 1500
    Triumph Spitfire 1968 to 1980
    Triumph TR7
    Triumph GT6 

    So we might ask where is the biff? I personal think just look up the right voltage and that the capacitator is for a ignition and not a for a hoover.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  8.  
    Mmmmh I don't know which kind of trials you want to do:
    - modern trials, national: "Italiano e Centro Sud"
      the regional trials series Campionato:
      regioale Ligure,  regionale Piemonte and Trofe Asi Piemonte, regionale Lombardo, regionale Triveneto
    - classic trials,                                  "Trial Gr. 5 Trofeo"
    - trials riding in the high mountains / Motocavalcade or "Motoalpinismo" or "Mulatrial"
     
    Therefor (in own experience) do some homework before you ride, look up the trials you want to visit in advance and contact the club or event manager, the Italians are super strict with their rules* which too vary also, thus mean you might still need a "Tessera Sport" or a "Licenza superiore".
    Your bike might too have a road registration, "Registro Storico" may be even an international insurance, as most trials are held on public places.
     
    * Some of the Italian rules:
    Entering the sections (for example when visiting) is only permitted with a helmet on the head!
    wearing of gloves is mandatory. Without gloves under certain circumstances no start!
    - Arm protection is required (long-sleeved clothing). also for hot days,
      do not forget about long sleeved but breathable Trial shirts!
     

     

     
     
    • Like 1
  9. If you want to do it use the loose stuff which is easier to apply, you can also easier determine the quantity you need. The quantity depends of course to the volume of the muffler / xhaust you want to repack.

    With the pads, these are made for a certain diameter or thickness and might not always fit so well to every type of silencer / muffler as there are geometric differences.

    • Like 1
  10. There where some rumors about green Montesas but they did not exist,

    this photo was taken as an example of 1975 green Montesa:

    2hmiv0n.jpg

    But this is a film negative used as an dia positive if you look at the badge.

  11. The mechanism is crap in one and a half year in ownership I had to replaced the mechanism now twice. To the first time I even mounted a decompression valve but that won't help if you get kick back which lead to a colorfull leg and a teethless gear which all the other issues you have then.

    Anyway riding wise the 242 is doing it so well I do forget the issues ...

    • Thanks 1
  12. The 247 is nice a bit like an OSSA MAR, or any pre 1977 trials bike.

    When the 348 came the 247 and so the 248 came out of interest as everyone liked to have more cc and beef.

    The 348 has certainly more power but I wouldn't say that the 247/8 has to little it is more then enough for classic trials.

    The 247 have it's own chassis which is OK but a bit dated. The 248 has the same chassis as the 348 or 349 Cia but just less cc.

    The 247 and 248 are robust bikes spare parts especially for the 248 are a bit rare.

    The 242 is the most modern twinshock Cota and was also the forerunner to the 394, 307, 309 and 310, thus the most advanced chassis and engine, But spare pat situation is critical and the kick starter mechanism is nuts and fragil, reparation will hit with ease 500GBP mark, so be avare.

    Otherwise I like the 242 very much and there are just two bikes that are as good like the Fantic 300 and the Aprilia TX 300.

    • Thanks 1
  13. Last not least, no adjustment in need everything worked great with the once adjusted carb.

    The differences to me are the much more sensitive throttle response with the carbon reeds compared with other reeds, this is once experienced something I won't miss in future so I don't claim.

  14. It was constantly riding in high mountain areas where the routes where between 30 - 50km and 50 - 100km per day. That is much more what you will archive during training or most trials events.

    The carbon reeds are suppose to have a limited time of use and before anything crack I replace them.

  15. Here You can see how wide and well the carbon type Boyesen reeds are opening at a Beta TR 34, the shadow was created by the fuel gas mixture that constantly washed the walls of the intake.

    It looks too me that the carbon reeds open very well. They worked flawless but one reed showed a bit wear where the reeds hitted the cage. The reeds where too not parallel to the reedcage, thus replaced them now after 15 days of riding, (Motoalpinismo).

    WP_20180217_18_32_59_Rich.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  16. If you want to get an answer to your question and may be a NOS piston to your Bultaco Alpina model 212 you might ask Orlando Calonder, he was the main Importer for Bultaco Europe main land has all the knowledge papers documentations and spare parts.

    He lives in Switzerland speaks German, French, Spanish, Catalan and Italian, but not English he will also most likely not communicate in English, there must have been some issues in the past between UK and him so here you have to be very sensitive.

    As an example: I've got the original main road reg. card for my Bultaco model to get the bike road registered in all the countries he imported the bikes back then which was super useful to get my bike through as to mine the papers where lost. He also has most parts and all technical information for Bultaco's in general from trials, Enduro, MX to street bikes.

    He has an own internet page, www.orlandocalondersa.com but easiest way to communicate or to do orders is by phone, letter and fax.

  17. The passages of the fuel screw can be clogged easily, even by some cloth lint while cleaning, might be worth a look.
    The main jet should be 90 may be 100 depending to your climate?

    Last not least you might look up if the air filter is not clogged or over oiled ore has started to dissolve,
    or the perforated sheets where the filter is mounted in between are clogged
    or last not least a too fine filter material is used.

    The original filterfoam has to be pretty coarse and just very little oiled,
    too much and the engine won't get enough air and will perform astmathic.

     

    • Like 1
  18. Have Boyesen CarbonTech mounted now the second set.

    They work fine but should be looked through every 20h for wear and mini cracks which can occur at the base and at the ends. Beside that I can't blame them for anything bad, they give a crisp response and you can even hear them when they hit the red cage in lower rev the engine not under load.

  19. On the continent it is the front wheel spindle that has to go through the Exit and then you are through the section, as too when when you start a section, and to movement here it is too the front wheel that has to move.

    To the rear wheel we just have the rule that the rear wheel is not allowed to cross the route once.

     

    Rolling around is OK to simultanious having the feet down while still moving and the engine out, this is wicked ...

  20. Then you might have an issue with the ratchet or the spring inside, I would guess the spring and may be too the tension of it.

    Did you tried to change oil and accidently untightened the lowest screw underneath the motor?

  21. Italian gumtree/craiglist for parts, that's where I get them from, from plastic to chassis and engine parts to my TR34.

    The only ressource that do work  as there is nothing substaincel or in still fairly good condition available anymore neither to the TR 240 nor to TR 32/33/34/35,
    The only problem for just english speaking people communication is just in Italian sometimes French or German and first contact always through phone!

    Get an Italian English dictionary I would suggest.

    www.subito.it

     

     

  22. Citrus acid, cheap, easy to use, the water where you have dissolved the acid should to be hot or very warm to get the result faster done.

    The neat thing it works too for all Kind of metals like Aluminium and will also declcify and thus erase other debris which normal rust remover can't too.

    So do also work for coffee machines and radiators!

 
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