pschrauber

If you want to do it use the loose stuff which is easier to apply, you can also easier determine the quantity you need. The quantity depends of course to the volume of the muffler / xhaust you want to repack. With the pads, these are made for a certain diameter or thickness and might not always fit so well to every type of silencer / muffler as there are geometric differences.

There where some rumors about green Montesas but they did not exist, this photo was taken as an example of 1975 green Montesa: But this is a film negative used as an dia positive if you look at the badge.

The mechanism is crap in one and a half year in ownership I had to replaced the mechanism now twice. To the first time I even mounted a decompression valve but that won't help if you get kick back which lead to a colorfull leg and a teethless gear which all the other issues you have then. Anyway riding wise the 242 is doing it so well I do forget the issues ...

The 247 is nice a bit like an OSSA MAR, or any pre 1977 trials bike. When the 348 came the 247 and so the 248 came out of interest as everyone liked to have more cc and beef. The 348 has certainly more power but I wouldn't say that the 247/8 has to little it is more then enough for classic trials. The 247 have it's own chassis which is OK but a bit dated. The 248 has the same chassis as the 348 or 349 Cia but just less cc. The 247 and 248 are robust bikes spare parts especially for the 248 are a bit rare. The 242 is the most modern twinshock Cota and was also the forerunner to the 394, 307, 309 and 310, thus the most advanced chassis and engine, But spare pat situation is critical and the kick starter mechanism is nuts and fragil, reparation will hit with ease 500GBP mark, so be avare. Otherwise I like the 242 very much and there are just two bikes that are as good like the Fantic 300 and the Aprilia TX 300.

Last not least, no adjustment in need everything worked great with the once adjusted carb. The differences to me are the much more sensitive throttle response with the carbon reeds compared with other reeds, this is once experienced something I won't miss in future so I don't claim.

It was constantly riding in high mountain areas where the routes where between 30 - 50km and 50 - 100km per day. That is much more what you will archive during training or most trials events. The carbon reeds are suppose to have a limited time of use and before anything crack I replace them.

Here You can see how wide and well the carbon type Boyesen reeds are opening at a Beta TR 34, the shadow was created by the fuel gas mixture that constantly washed the walls of the intake. It looks too me that the carbon reeds open very well. They worked flawless but one reed showed a bit wear where the reeds hitted the cage. The reeds where too not parallel to the reedcage, thus replaced them now after 15 days of riding, (Motoalpinismo).

If you want to get an answer to your question and may be a NOS piston to your Bultaco Alpina model 212 you might ask Orlando Calonder, he was the main Importer for Bultaco Europe main land has all the knowledge papers documentations and spare parts. He lives in Switzerland speaks German, French, Spanish, Catalan and Italian, but not English he will also most likely not communicate in English, there must have been some issues in the past between UK and him so here you have to be very sensitive. As an example: I've got the original main road reg. card for my Bultaco model to get the bike road registered in all the countries he imported the bikes back then which was super useful to get my bike through as to mine the papers where lost. He also has most parts and all technical information for Bultaco's in general from trials, Enduro, MX to street bikes. He has an own internet page, www.orlandocalondersa.com but easiest way to communicate or to do orders is by phone, letter and fax.

The passages of the fuel screw can be clogged easily, even by some cloth lint while cleaning, might be worth a look. The main jet should be 90 may be 100 depending to your climate? Last not least you might look up if the air filter is not clogged or over oiled ore has started to dissolve, or the perforated sheets where the filter is mounted in between are clogged or last not least a too fine filter material is used. The original filterfoam has to be pretty coarse and just very little oiled, too much and the engine won't get enough air and will perform astmathic.

Have Boyesen CarbonTech mounted now the second set. They work fine but should be looked through every 20h for wear and mini cracks which can occur at the base and at the ends. Beside that I can't blame them for anything bad, they give a crisp response and you can even hear them when they hit the red cage in lower rev the engine not under load.

On the continent it is the front wheel spindle that has to go through the Exit and then you are through the section, as too when when you start a section, and to movement here it is too the front wheel that has to move. To the rear wheel we just have the rule that the rear wheel is not allowed to cross the route once. Rolling around is OK to simultanious having the feet down while still moving and the engine out, this is wicked ...

Then you might have an issue with the ratchet or the spring inside, I would guess the spring and may be too the tension of it. Did you tried to change oil and accidently untightened the lowest screw underneath the motor?

Italian gumtree/craiglist for parts, that's where I get them from, from plastic to chassis and engine parts to my TR34. The only ressource that do work as there is nothing substaincel or in still fairly good condition available anymore neither to the TR 240 nor to TR 32/33/34/35, The only problem for just english speaking people communication is just in Italian sometimes French or German and first contact always through phone! Get an Italian English dictionary I would suggest. www.subito.it

Citrus acid, cheap, easy to use, the water where you have dissolved the acid should to be hot or very warm to get the result faster done. The neat thing it works too for all Kind of metals like Aluminium and will also declcify and thus erase other debris which normal rust remover can't too. So do also work for coffee machines and radiators!

The manufacturer I mentioned will in heavy cases just apply more hard chrome so it can be grinded down again to the specific diameter you need. They have written it down in the website I put a link too (sadly just in German), see there when you use google translate to look at the page in English.

You can repair them too, they can re realigned and get a new hardchrome surface too. There should be too some manufactories in Irlenad and of course there are some in the UK. You can also sent them to Wissing Hartchrom in Germany they do a very good job, they have done already several stanchions for me: http://www.wissinghartchrom.de/fertigung/motorrad-standrohre.html

The Mikuni VM is good and works good, you can replace it against something different but be aware that it will be costly to find the right jetting, needle and needle valve. The the flat slide carbs can give a slightly better Performance but these are more picky about the right adjusting and jettingh then old style round slide carbs.

These skinny fork tubes works well but are flexible and in a slightly harder crash they simply bent. I had my first crash with them in 82 in to get new stanchions wasn't a problem. Now its much more complicated. What you can do is swap to a TY 250 fork with holes or a TY 250 mono forks, both works fine, I stil thing the mono works even better because of its overrun and I done it to my TY. The rear shocks can be replaced to better. A really good thing is to extend the swing arm 30mm, you need a new brake arm then too. I have made a CAD drawing for that so the longer arm can be cutted by laser and have likewise holes like the originals. Mounting the engine reed cage of the 250cc model is a good fix, too get rid of all internal stuff of the airbox to get better breathe. If you come along a 175 MX clutch case from 74 and 75 that is too an improvement then you got rid of the oil pump and it's casing too.

Also that can be bought separate, use google search with your carb brand and model together with choke and parts. Just a bit of research ... how did you manage to crack that piece I have a TY with Mikuni VM with a likewise rubber from 1979 and it is still in very good condition, never heard about issues with this part but the one incident out of the rule can confirm the average ..

Order it (the rubber piece) separate, can easely done by the vendorer You bought the bike or which supplies carburators in general.

Try to use a hotter plug, they work better with a beit hotter plugs in general, how is the color of the plug: - black, - dark brown, - light brown in the middel and dark Brown around, - whitish to light Brown, I'am now using for all old bikes slightly hotter plugs with very good effect deoending starting running and durability of the plugs in general. Are the reeds still straight and do they close well, is the reed cage well sealed too?

If you want to stay with the AMAL and have a worn out needle please replace the needle jet too because it will be likewise if not even more worn out. Another improvement is to replace the slide against one with chromed surface thus the slide and the bore of the carb doesn't eat up against each other. Hansjörg Pfahler has made a batch of chromed slides fir AMAL carburators for Bultaco and Montesa bikes. You might give him a call for one, his Website is: www.bultaco.de Beat improvement is a dump against something that is not AMAL or BING. Here Dell'Orto PHBH or a Mikuni VM will improve everything and too gas consumption. OKO's as Mikuni clones can be OK too. I switched from AMAL to Dell'Orto and the bike runs much better / crisper.

I use RH Motorradlacke a small German company that produces paint especially for motorcycles and motorcycle engines, very good products, nothing to claim very good against heat and they have or will custom make the color you need for whatever bike / engine and model you are looking for. http://www.motorradlack.de/produktubersicht/ For order special paint: http://www.motorradlack.de/farbsuche/

If I would be you I would look up EBay Gumtree or used parts motorcycle dealer for another hub or even better a complete wheel. You might too try to get a pair of Yamaha TY wheels so you have too the brakes sorted at once. You can too use bits from Alpinas for example, do some research and look your way through offers. My personal 2 cent opinion in cases where you just want a runner.

The different design layouts where dicussed in German Trialsport Magazine (GTM) by Felix Krahnstöver, but you can read all about a following article in GTM # 107 page 50 ffp. from February 1985 in an article written by Dr. Klaus Simon who was at that time a trials rider and engine engineer at Sachs, in the article he discussed the different possibilities / set ups für rear exhausts from one chamber absorber- to one chamber refection and to the combination of both and where where where the advatages and disadvantages and very important how to construct them*. The article recieved special attention by the readers so he wrote two additional about trials exhausts for Twinshocks and Monos: In GTM # 128 page 86 ffp. about the outtake or missing pipe and the mid section of trials machines and how to construct them*, In GTM # 205 page 58 ffp. about the loading effects of two stroke pipes in trials machines and about their deimensions*. * giving rules of thump and ranges to what ever you want to archive. To two stroke engines with the technology of twinshocks and air cooled monos these principles are still valid today, you apply them perfect to most new aftermarket exhausts, if you would take port steering or other more advanceed motor control unit too in consideration there would be a design change of the given numbers in need. To back pressure, it is a fact that a standard two stroke engine needs a bit of support depending air mixture flush from the exhaust side to work well, you can't change physics.