pschrauber

I don't think the Banana style exhaust is better then the clubfoot style and to me there are two reason. The first is very obvious the clubfoot offers better sound reduction so is quiter. The second is obvious too, the clubfoot offers more througput or flow rate as the diameter of the two tubes are bigger then the one at the banana type. Second the Clubfoot offers more general back pressure in the exhaust system through the mace of voids, tubes and "windows" which allows a mild rear loading effect to the charge of air gasoline mixture which was pushed out of the cylinder. The Banana style exhaust was an interims solution and invented after the tobacco pouch style rear muffler which did not show any good effect.

OK, thank You. I thought so too but I'm a tiny bit concerned about the material as I always thought that carbon is a bit more sturdy then steel and when I mounted them they where perfectly straight an sat flush with the cage. Additional I haven't had any differences in starting so far which would have been one reason for a reed malfunction. I've ordered too another pair so in case of: - I' am starting to get uncomfortable to whatever reason - the reeds would now bend quickly to the other side and perform not as good as before. Than I can easily switch, just now cutting a new seal for the cage cylinder mount ... also very important to avoid air leaks.

Hi, just doing the winter maintained to the bikes and did a look at the reeds of my TR 34. What I found was that the upper reeds mounted to the cage are not aligned to opening of the cage anymore, instead they have "bent" which is about 1 deg. Beside that only a tiny little bit of wear (fuzzy edge) is noticeable at the right reed towards the middle front. I never have experienced a different wear on carbon reeds never so far bent reeds*, should i keep or replace? *To steel reeds that they start to bent I have seen but so far not to carbon. Your thoughts? You can see how they had opened inside and where the gas air mix has cleaned the walls and where there was turbulence in the air stream, very interesting. Don't look bad but the upper reeds are now bend up instead of being alinged:

But I now have to correct myself if it is the very big thread which is in likewise diameter then the exhaust port then I would recommend laser welding which can be done without overstressing the old cylinder. A good repair shop that will do this but in Germany: https://www.worb5.com/werkstatt-instandsetzung-hebebühne-motor-zündung-zündkerze-reparatur-reifen.html They do all things you need to do too repair two strokes they tune scooters in all sizes vintage and modern. These guy have a cylinder of my bike just now and are reshaping the ports and in- and outtake + reshaping the head for better performance. Nice guys easy to talk and to negotiate with.

I like Würth Time Sert very much these are a bit more "durable" espacially for threads that have to carry a lot of stress. I've repaired the threads to the rear shock mount to my Bultaco Sherpa and one mount to the bash plate mount to my SWM with them, with very good result: You find them at E-Bay the initial package is worth the money. Look up Time Sert and M 8 f.e.

Looks good and a bit familiar too!

So here some photos and the measurements. I recommend that you use the side stand providet by Martin, the remake is in nice quality, the bend of the side stand is slightly softer but beside that very near by. Here the measurements, the lower drawing shows a braket that would fit to an Aluminium swing arm: The photos:

To the location of clip of the needle (with 4 grooves): - 2nd down form the top or - 3rd up from the bottom.

Very important I had to replace the shaft due it leaked. To replace the shaft you have to take the complete engine apart, no other fix possible. Also You might look up a kick starter stop so you don't crack the casing in case you went a bit to far with the kick starter, (Martin has them).

Carb adjustmets that fitt very well from: sea-level up to 1.500 above sea level: main jet: 90 idle jet: 60 needle jet: AV 266, needle: X2 2nd clip choke jet: 65 gas valve: 200 float: 8gr. slide type: 60 To the adjustment I can't tell you, I first apply a bit more idle through the idle screw. Then I adjust the petrol screw, which I then turn out 2 rev. Then by slowly turning in I try to reach peak of rev., if this does not happen I turn slowly out to find peak of rev. If you turn in the screw completely the engune will die. Where you have the peak of rev. there is the proper position which might vary a bit due to weather and height. I never had to change jets between 50m up 1500m above sea level, first above 1500m you might try a 100 main jet which is again sufficient up to 3000m in my experience.

I can sent you measurements of the location and size of the sidestand amboss (mount) and the sidestand itself so you can let it be done by a local metal worker. The sidestand itself is also available from Martin Matthews.

Very nice bike, I have this model too. To the mod's the foot pegs are a good modification but with welding around to the frame of the bike the bike will loose the road worthiness if you don't have a proof that it has been done by a specialist that is approved to do so, (at least where I live mandantory). Other mod's easier to do are: - replacing the fork from Marzocchi to later Betors by still using the Marzoccie Yokes / triple clamps of the one year later model. - clutch fix from enduro model does help a little to lighten the clutch pull, - side case from Aprilla TXR which helps a lot, - HTX 740 oil which improves clutch engagement and stops the glue effect, - aluminium swing arm which is lighter, a bit longer and stiffer, In need I can give you the measurements of the side stand which I personal find is mounted very well to the steel swing arm. To the gas tank the plastic gas tank is an improvement and much lighter also prune to dents and a bit more to wear in general too. Martin is a good ressource in the UK. I kept mine original but have technical improved rebuild most parts beside the paint, plastics, ... I like the patina very much. During a tour in the mountains, note the side stand and how well it tuck it self away. How the bike looks today with the modifictad fork:

The kickstarter shaft is much too long to be used without the support of ignition casing, as it is now bent it is time to get the shaft out to get it straightened again, there is sadly no other fix without overstressing the engine casings and bearings as I know.

I don't think it has to do anything with capacitaors, These are regulary just mounted to point's ignition to cut off voltage peaks generated by the points so they don't burn themself away while operating. It's an electronic ignition, so there won't be any capacitaors, instead thrysistors wich are well cast inside the coil with also have electronics inside. See here: http://www.motelek.net/zundanlagen/motoplat2.html I would discuss this issue with Ewald, and to his English I don't know but think he can speak some English at least, try to keep sentence simple and short, I would too suggest to speak slow and pronounce well then it should be hopefully not too dificult. Oh and he has an heavy Austrian dialect this will have an impact in his English speech too...

Ahh Motoplat issues, and the Pursang (my guess) is probably an electronic one, which are very complicated to repair (like the units completly cast in plastic for the Beta TR34)? Sorry you have to Name the model and also sent a Picture to which Motoplat you are referring. A good if not the very best ressource I know to any Motoplat ignition problems is Ewald Rosner an electric engineer in Austriua. His side dedicated to motorcycle ignition you find here: http://www.motelek.net/ His site is in German but he provides all information for free, the best way to solve problems with Motoplat or ny ignition is to call him up, his number is written down there. He repaired the Motoplat ignition unit to my Beta TR34 in a couple of days, he took just the money he need for the spare and repair surplus a bit as a donor to run the site. I very highly redcommend his technical skills and solutions, as he is a super professional engineer but you have to call no e-mail will be answered. He also gives out repair manuals on his site to several Motoplat ignitions you can translate them online in English which might also help: https://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motelek.net%2F&edit-text=&act=url The Information he provides is free of use. To use his information to gain money or to try to sell them elsewhere is prohibited.

The least amount of fork oil is 20mm above the inner fork piston which has to be covered completely when the fork stanchions are completly pulled out. Good compromise for viscosity is SAE 7.5. There is no preload setting, but you can make your own shaft to place inside the fork to preload the spring. Complete adjustable fork suspension by inserts can be aquired throug HFS forks in Spain.

I would suggest to use the half link because you have an even number of sprocket pair thus the chain will stay where it is with 102 links, with 101 links it will not instead wandering around the sprockets so providing even wear.

How is the color of the plug? Can you post a photo of the plug and what kind of plug you are you using? It might be an airflow or a too rich adjusted carb problem, which I had recently?

The Fantic 240 is good, the Montesa Cota 242 better, best in handling I think a tie between: The school boy Majesty TY 125/175 and the Centromoto Panda TC220.

The 175cc Bultaco came in different versions: - trials version for the teenagers from 16 - 18 years, - the named rental bikes with double seat and lights, - for public service, I had a 175cc Sherpa too, the 175cc shares indeed very much with the 182 /190 but was blue and had the possibility to mount the gear lever on either side which came to our country first with the 198/199 model. The engine was a bit strange, massive amount of flywheel weight made him slow but super smooth, sadly without grunt. It was a task to lift the front wheel. The bike performed best in slippery conditions with narrow sections. For power you had to turn the throttle wide open in advance, all in all the 250cc has much more grunt.

Some twinshocks some air cooled monos, one TRex.

The PHBH26 BS is a Mikuni VM clone and came out in 1987 this carb is very good to archive better performance you can switch to flat slide carbs. What you might look at is the slide and how it looks, the slide of a Dell'Orto carb is made out of softer material then the carb body and cylinder so most wear happens to the slide and not the cylinder aka the carb body. Some wear of the slide can cause rattling of the slide thus not so good behavior of the bike. If there is noticeable wear you might replace slide needle and needle jet and the engine should then run much smoother, at least that is my experience in that matter. The gasoline valve is seldom a problem if just a couple of years old if there are not other issues like: - bent rod, - incorrect float hight, - damaged rubber cone on the valve.

There are two needle valves: - one for adjusting gas flow attached to the floater - the other for adjusting the air gas mixture attached to the slide which are you referring too. None of them comes with a kit. The named Dell'Orto seems to be from an air cooled mono model or later. Very important id which trilasbike here brand and model name and year has to be given is attached to the carb?

OK here you are: http://trialforum.net/

Some things I would so: 1. Chain tension is too much, there should be a 1cm distance between the upper side of the chain where the chain tensioner sits and the underside of the swing arm. 2. You should mount an chain guard, 3. The rear fender, a used OEM Aluminium fender or white plastic fender would be great...