Ahh Motoplat issues, and the Pursang (my guess) is probably an electronic one, which are very complicated to repair (like the units completly cast in plastic for the Beta TR34)?
Sorry you have to Name the model and also sent a Picture to which Motoplat you are referring.
A good if not the very best ressource I know to any Motoplat ignition problems is Ewald Rosner an electric engineer in Austriua. His side dedicated to motorcycle ignition you find here:
His site is in German but he provides all information for free, the best way to solve problems with Motoplat or ny ignition is to call him up, his number is written down there.
He repaired the Motoplat ignition unit to my Beta TR34 in a couple of days, he took just the money he need for the spare and repair surplus a bit as a donor to run the site.
I very highly redcommend his technical skills and solutions, as he is a super professional engineer but you have to call no e-mail will be answered.
He also gives out repair manuals on his site to several Motoplat ignitions you can translate them online in English which might also help:
I would suggest to use the half link because you have an even number of sprocket pair thus the chain will stay where it is with 102 links, with 101 links it will not instead wandering around the sprockets so providing even wear.
The Fantic 240 is good, the Montesa Cota 242 better, best in handling I think a tie between:
The school boy Majesty TY 125/175 and the Centromoto Panda TC220.
- trials version for the teenagers from 16 - 18 years,
- the named rental bikes with double seat and lights,
- for public service,
I had a 175cc Sherpa too, the 175cc shares indeed very much with the 182 /190 but was blue and had the possibility to mount the gear lever on either side which came to our country first with the 198/199 model.
The engine was a bit strange, massive amount of flywheel weight made him slow but super smooth, sadly without grunt. It was a task to lift the front wheel. The bike performed best in slippery conditions with narrow sections.
For power you had to turn the throttle wide open in advance, all in all the 250cc has much more grunt.
The PHBH26 BS is a Mikuni VM clone and came out in 1987 this carb is very good to archive better performance you can switch to flat slide carbs.
What you might look at is the slide and how it looks, the slide of a Dell'Orto carb is made out of softer material then the carb body and cylinder so most wear happens to the slide and not the cylinder aka the carb body. Some wear of the slide can cause rattling of the slide thus not so good behavior of the bike.
If there is noticeable wear you might replace slide needle and needle jet and the engine should then run much smoother, at least that is my experience in that matter.
The gasoline valve is seldom a problem if just a couple of years old if there are not other issues like:
- one for adjusting gas flow attached to the floater
- the other for adjusting the air gas mixture attached to the slide which are you referring too.
None of them comes with a kit.
The named Dell'Orto seems to be from an air cooled mono model or later. Very important id which trilasbike here brand and model name and year has to be given is attached to the carb?
1. Chain tension is too much, there should be a 1cm distance between the upper side of the chain where the chain tensioner sits and the underside of the swing arm.
2. You should mount an chain guard,
3. The rear fender, a used OEM Aluminium fender or white plastic fender would be great...
Best decision you could make so far, keep the bike as original as you can, just OEM parts, great look. The rusty spots will go away with the time and just some care.
Dell Orto carbs have a fuel adjustment screw, not air adjustment, screwing it in clockwise will weaken the fuel to air mix, the opposite to an air adjustment screw fitted to Kehein carbs. If it's a Gas Gas Pro I'm surprised it has a Dell Orto, Kehein have been fitted to UK models for a few years
Dangerous do not follow!
Dell'Orto's can have either fuel or air screws,
- if it is a fuel screw it is mounted between the slide and the cylinder intake, (you screw in for leaner mixture and out for richer mixture)
- if the screw is mounted between the slide and the airbox then it is a an air screw, (you screw out for leaner mixture and in for richer mixture)
But these are normally not effecting the plug so much.
Do a 15min. ride with the Task toi the engine to do something, very good is riding up hill or riding faster (over 50km/h), so the engine get really hot and especially the exhaust, do it for 15 minutes, then look at the plug again
Still thinking about why you have no slightly advantage after the mounting the later enduro lever with the longer arm and the bigger balls,
as at least there should be a slight improvement to red and older yellow models.
Are you sure the base of the case is milled sufficient?
I would at first give away the bent swing arm to a good car body workshop which do too restaurations. So they can restore the right geometric numbers aka straigthen the swing arm.
Then take a closer look at craiglists in Europe and too eBay for a donor swing arm.
Bultacos never had aluminium swing arms it will look a bit strange.
You might check out when the valve will close the gas supply to your carb. As the carb is already in an angled position the standard routine of the valve should close the gas supply when the float are parallel leveled to the contact area of the bowl can't be applied. (I hope I wrote it down correct ...)
Too me this sounds to me as he had left the cable stuck in the melted solder of the pot too long,
so the liquid metal could rise inside the cable and made it stiff thus it broke.
You should just put it as much in as the cable with the attached nipple barley touches the surface of the melted metal.
The metal will then instand flow inside the cable and raise up, when you see it had risen above the nipple then raise the
cable and that's it.
pschrauber. Your wonky arithmetic doesn't affect the logic of what you say .
(33 x 0.25 = 8.3)
28 minutes ago, klonheadd said:
actually its 8.25
Yes you are right, I made wrong point setting while calculating as we here in Germany use the point for thousend and the comma for point just vice-a-verse to the English writing thus I mixed up everything ... (German: 2.000,00 = Englisch 2,000.00) ... excuse me.
Anyway even that much less amount of air needs a couple of thousand volts to get ionized and that will not happen by a piece of plastic with probably some metal in it.
If you want to gain some energy you might install a Helmholtz resonator inside the air box that is done by several car manufactors but needs much of space a trials bike does not have.
Btw. a likewise principle was used by the boost bottle in the beginning eighties to port steered 2-stroke engines. Engines with reeds or with rotary valves will not have any advantage effect by the boost bottle.
Engine size: 250 cc = 0.25l Engine revolution: 2000 rev./ min. = 33 rev / sec.
So 33 x 0.25l = 2.062.50l = 2.06 m³ of air is used per second.
Do you believe this tiny plaque is capable to ionize 2 m³ of air in a second?
You can ionize air for which you need a couple of thousand volts, and if you ionize the named 2 m³ per second there would be a side effect of static charges to all metal near by that lead to violent lightning.
Best decision you could make so far, keep the bike as original as you can, just OEM parts, great look. The rusty spots will go away with the time and just some care.
.
Bultaco Motoplat
in Bultaco
Posted
Ahh Motoplat issues, and the Pursang (my guess) is probably an electronic one, which are very complicated to repair (like the units completly cast in plastic for the Beta TR34)?
Sorry you have to Name the model and also sent a Picture to which Motoplat you are referring.
A good if not the very best ressource I know to any Motoplat ignition problems is Ewald Rosner an electric engineer in Austriua. His side dedicated to motorcycle ignition you find here:
http://www.motelek.net/
His site is in German but he provides all information for free, the best way to solve problems with Motoplat or ny ignition is to call him up, his number is written down there.
He repaired the Motoplat ignition unit to my Beta TR34 in a couple of days, he took just the money he need for the spare and repair surplus a bit as a donor to run the site.
I very highly redcommend his technical skills and solutions, as he is a super professional engineer but you have to call no e-mail will be answered.
He also gives out repair manuals on his site to several Motoplat ignitions you can translate them online in English which might also help:
https://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motelek.net%2F&edit-text=&act=url
The Information he provides is free of use. To use his information to gain money or to try to sell them elsewhere is prohibited.