pschrauber

You might too join German Trial Forum. And then ... and then ... you might too go to the Hanse Classics the North German Classic trials league, see here: http://www.hanse-classics.de/ Seen the Bultaco 183 nice state really nice state, I have a model 199b in the shed a nice ride

Best decision you could make so far, keep the bike as original as you can, just OEM parts, great look. The rusty spots will go away with the time and just some care.

The choke level on would be a nice explanation!

Dangerous do not follow! Dell'Orto's can have either fuel or air screws, - if it is a fuel screw it is mounted between the slide and the cylinder intake, (you screw in for leaner mixture and out for richer mixture) - if the screw is mounted between the slide and the airbox then it is a an air screw, (you screw out for leaner mixture and in for richer mixture) But these are normally not effecting the plug so much. Do a 15min. ride with the Task toi the engine to do something, very good is riding up hill or riding faster (over 50km/h), so the engine get really hot and especially the exhaust, do it for 15 minutes, then look at the plug again

Two things come in my mind when I look at the plug in my experience: - engine runs too rich and get's too little air in general, (cleaning the air filter and just use very very little filter oil) - bad oil seals at the crank so the engine is sucking gear oil, thus the sooting and plenty of oil in general. How does the exhaust vapors smell after two stroke oil or more towards burnt motor oil?

Obviously an leak in your coolant system, or you have held the high pressure washer a longer time to the oil fill plug which wasn't screwd tight?

@metisse Still thinking about why you have no slightly advantage after the mounting the later enduro lever with the longer arm and the bigger balls, as at least there should be a slight improvement to red and older yellow models. Are you sure the base of the case is milled sufficient?

Sounds great. Which typ did you mount the one just with ignition supply or the one with additional supply for lights and horn? I' ve hear similar from ignitions mounted to Bultacos, sadly Powerdynamos units are a pricey. Anyway did it change the pick of the motor when reving up?

I would at first give away the bent swing arm to a good car body workshop which do too restaurations. So they can restore the right geometric numbers aka straigthen the swing arm. Then take a closer look at craiglists in Europe and too eBay for a donor swing arm. Bultacos never had aluminium swing arms it will look a bit strange.

Using Fuelfriend cans for trial hiking in the mountains they fit very well in the backpack. From 0,5l to 1,5l also 2l and 5l are available, very good quality.

You might check out when the valve will close the gas supply to your carb. As the carb is already in an angled position the standard routine of the valve should close the gas supply when the float are parallel leveled to the contact area of the bowl can't be applied. (I hope I wrote it down correct ...)

Sometimes too much is too much ... Too me this sounds to me as he had left the cable stuck in the melted solder of the pot too long, so the liquid metal could rise inside the cable and made it stiff thus it broke. You should just put it as much in as the cable with the attached nipple barley touches the surface of the melted metal. The metal will then instand flow inside the cable and raise up, when you see it had risen above the nipple then raise the cable and that's it.

Yes you are right, I made wrong point setting while calculating as we here in Germany use the point for thousend and the comma for point just vice-a-verse to the English writing thus I mixed up everything ... (German: 2.000,00 = Englisch 2,000.00) ... excuse me. Anyway even that much less amount of air needs a couple of thousand volts to get ionized and that will not happen by a piece of plastic with probably some metal in it. If you want to gain some energy you might install a Helmholtz resonator inside the air box that is done by several car manufactors but needs much of space a trials bike does not have. Btw. a likewise principle was used by the boost bottle in the beginning eighties to port steered 2-stroke engines. Engines with reeds or with rotary valves will not have any advantage effect by the boost bottle.

OK lets do some math: Engine size: 250 cc = 0.25l Engine revolution: 2000 rev./ min. = 33 rev / sec. So 33 x 0.25l = 2.062.50l = 2.06 m³ of air is used per second. Do you believe this tiny plaque is capable to ionize 2 m³ of air in a second? You can ionize air for which you need a couple of thousand volts, and if you ionize the named 2 m³ per second there would be a side effect of static charges to all metal near by that lead to violent lightning.

The energy set or energy principle in physics is very clear: The proposition or principle of the conservation of energy is an unconditional fundamental principle: According to which no physical process can destroy or create energy, but can only be transformed from one form to another. So if you put this little plastic bugger in the air filter box will radiates so much energy that the engine will produce much more torque? I think these plastic plagues are nothing else then a nice fairy tale to cheat or pull money from people.

I personal think a Christopher plaque or badge will give you a likewise advantage in luck and if placed in front of the bike even more luck will occur. Because as we know that luck is the most crucial part of trials riding. Much more important then in a row sorted O2 molecules if you ask me. These badges can be bought at Amazone, see here: https://www.amazon.de/Christophorus-Plakette-fürs-Auto-Fahrt-Magnet/dp/B00GG4DNP8

I do "reproduce" them by myself! Used and abviously a worn by previous owner: Self made filter for the TXR: You just need plastic foam glue and oil resistant universal air filter pads, with a thickness of 10mm.

As mentioned dry chain lube do the trick very well. To WD40 you might look up for what WD40 is mentioned to be: "Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try" WD40 was invented by Convair for their Atlas rockets as a water displacement and corroion protection, and the 40'th try out of a mixture from peroleum and benzine finally showed very good results. As a dry chain lube I personal use "PDL Dry Lube chainspray" which includes PTFE, before application I clean up the cahin from any existing minral oil as if there is something left the PTFE will not stick to the metal and then it's like using the chain without any lube.

Weather you choose: Rockshocks, Falcons or Magicals they are all very good. I personal like the Magicals best on Spanish twinshock bikes, as they simply fit best in look through their design with the colored springs. Magical even made special rear shocks dedicated to the Sherpa.

Depends on your weight, if you are as heavy as Mr. Average which is 80kg with gears then everything is OK if you weight much more or much less then it's an issue. You can have the most expensive shock but with the wrong spring worthless, thus I would in your situation look up manufacturer that can provide a broad range of springs to your need. Then there is the look, (for me my eyes rides with the bike) and the shock has to somehow fit to the design of the bike, therefore I like: - Magicals on Spanish bikes, - Especially double spring Falcons with aluminium body on SWM, (these look even a bit more like Girlings), - Rockshocks on Yamaha, Never had a Fantic so here I have no ides.

Mmmh beside getting oval the inner surfaces of the con-rod where the bearings are situated get worn, this happens to the upper and the lower roller bearings.

Great bike and restauration, I like this model with the gastank seat combo and the iron cylinder (250cc) very much.

Do whatever you want, you can just grind them off or live with them they will hit the gap between frame and fork center tube. I think it is up to owner and which tank he uses if: - original, - Majesty or - the plastic tank seat base combo, so I strongly believe everyone should find the best solution for his need, the aluminium stops are beefy you can modify them a bit too!

lf you keep the rebuild and swap contemporary in appearance I would be very curious if there would be an issue as especially in Britain there are so many twinshock bikes with tubless rims and even forks from bikes of the nineties around. As long as they are fitted in contemporary way I think it is OK. Would state so even for Euro and Nordic Inter Cup. See here, (found photos of it):

I have mounted them to my TY 125 / 175 and with a bit of research you find matching bearings. I believe I used a pair from a Suzuki DR that fitted spot on. I made a braket in CAD then the piece was laser cut out of T 6 alloy, bent and then mounted (looks very contemporary). So it doesn't matter so much that you have to fork of the mono TY.