pschrauber

On later models like 199b even Made out of plastic. Anyway beside the sliders of the piston there is very little that has to be replaced in my experience. Most prune for repair or replacement are the stanchions und the power fork legs. The stanchions are often bent and the inner bore of the power legs shows often much wear. If the lower fork legs are worn out my personal fix is to let the inner bore be rebored mostly 0,2mm more in diameter and then too a straightening and alignment and re- hardchrome of the upper steel stanchions adding 0,10mm to the hardchrome layer thickness, that is the easiest was to get a proper as new working fork pair. It's a pity that the Betor forks don't have separate sliders for the lower fork tubes.

I would ask about specific parts IF they are still available together with your frame and engine number. In my experience most small parts are if not you might too look up for used forks. For the UK BultacoUK / InMotion. Not available are these plastic rings around the piston that tighten it to the inner stanchion. As you have obviously a lathe at your hand you can refabricate many parts.

Anyway the SUBARU IMPREZA WRX is a real nice to have and while you can disturb Porsches quite well it is too a family car!

I thought as it must be in Russia or (Finland (and Finland was Russian from 1805 - 1917)). So I wrote it down in cryllic.* * Did I told you we had as second language French and Russian im my class ... you will get a proof soon

Россия зимой может также быть Финляндией

Company, very good result all processes and super price worthey, but they ned time at least 4 weeks: http://www.otr-gmbh.de/

I know a company that do galvanic and chrom coatings very price worthey. If you are interested? Due to environment regulations prices have gone up and also less and less company's are doing this for private customers.

Get a shet of thin stainless steel that is a bit longer in length then the bore of or the length of the circle of the piston. Wrap the sheet around and thigtening it with a hose clamp for example so the rings get compressed in the groove of the piston. Now you can place the piaton with the wrapped steel sheet to the bottom of the cylinder and push the piston through the stainless steel compression in the cylinder. Make shure to use some oil and make sure to pushthe piston in the exact right position inside the cylinder. Also make sure when mounting the thin steel sheet that the rings are too sitting in the right position.

I assume in your first post that the bike did run before and then stopped running at once. Thus I would in your situation forst get rid of the issue and then change and optimize our electrical system, otherwise there is some risk it will take much time before the bike will run again. I would first look at your ignition system and here to the points and to the condenser. The points might have got a wrong adjustment or got burned by a malfunctioning condenser. These are the ost common issues beside a non working plug cap or an issue with the cable connection between coil and cable to the plug or cable to thr plug to plug cap.If here everything is sorted I would look up the remaining electric. To the remaining electric these parts are feed by a separate cable and there should be a crude looking restrictor between the rear stop light ans the main circuit these restrictors do fail too you might check it. To the original harness set up this should be inside all workshop manuals for Sherpas and Alpinas.

Wow 6in! 6 inches = 6 Zoll = 6 x 2.54 = 15.20 cm That is very much too much and you and Venhill where talking about the same model?

Great bike, nice arrangement with the flowers and it seems to me that you are a real Honda fan as your kid's are riding Hondas too! Thumps up for getting it started again. In my personal experience, give the carb an ultrasonic clean, especially the jets might be a bit clogged.

No differences, then why is Motul producing two oils? You might change the bike shop ... I wouldn't thrust them?

For explanation Motul 800 is made for road racing and the oil has a flame point of 252 deg. Celsius. While Motul 710 has a flame point of 94 deg. Celsius. This oil will burn up easily at suits much better to your needs. Even in my 500cc KTM 2stroke bike from 89 which is a monster I would not use Motul 800 too high flame point even for that high performance engine as the motor uses around 5 to 10l am hour!

Motul 800 has a high burning point. When the oil is coming out of your exhaust it did not burn, I think the engine is running not hot enough for Motul 800 you might try out Motul 710 which birns up easier due to the lower flame point.

50:1 is very good works with all type of bikes you might go a bit less of oil for trials riding 75ml for 5l gasoline is my mix, (which is around 66.67:1). I am using 50:1 for my 89 KTM 500 cc 2 stroke enduro/MX bike works flawless. I use Ipone or Putoline half synthetic with a low burning temperature as oil. Gasoline is Aral Ultimate 102ROZ without ethanol or Aspen fuel. My tip: You might stay away of any fuel with ethanol very bad stuff depending your climate the storage of a fuel mix with ethanol can be very short.

The later 199b engine with 340cc is much slower in any reaction compared.to 199a model in standard set up. The 326cc feels snappy against the 340 in my opinion. I had mounted the lighter flywheel of the 250cc to the 340cc and that was for me a bit too much power you might try yourself. Improvements I liked: - carn swap fo 28mm Dell'Orto, - rear silencer with less low reduction of the exhaust vapors. - clutch improvements, - no changes to the ignition, I can't see the super improvement beside less maintaince.

What we / I did back im the days with earlier Sherpa models we took a a garden hose cut off around 20cm then cut that piece up lenghtwise and mounted it with a hose clamp to the frame. That worked very well.

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Before you replace all bit's look up the overall costs and compare with other possibilities.

The tank seat combo is different but still might fit. Whatch out for the mid silencer. How did you get cracks in the original 242 red tank seat combo that is nearly impossible?

Check your slide, sadly AMAL uses the same material for the carb body and the slide which results and wear so the slide starts rattling around in the carb and if the slide rattles the needle will do it too. In the end or very soon you have a worn slide and needle and needle jet. There are two fixes to that problem: - a chromed slide for the AMAL or - a different carb. As non of the mentioned fixes are cheap I' am using a Dell'Orto PHBH CS in my 242 with great performance increase. Finally I can now adjust the carb and it really has an effect to the engine, also the fuel consumption is lowered.

The bikes are very unique and so is the engine. The cam shaft is mounted down in the engine base and the valves are moved by rods. This is a very simple construction, but too very crucial to oil supply. The first bikes had problems with the valve engaging levers not getting enough oil, the engines needed a certain time to build up oil pressure and to apply enough oil to the head. I had this problem back then and needed new valve engaging levers which took Italjet half a year to deliver them back in 1983.I don't think there are any spare parts for this 4t engine available. Even donor bikes and engines are a problem. The motor is not very suitable for trialsriding anyway, a 2strocke Italjet works much better, not being said that this is the best twinsbock trialsbike.

May be your bike has lost the rubber between gas tank and frame or it was replaced by thinner rubber or the rubber has shrunk in thickness. I would try to place thicker rubber between the gas tank and the frame.

This is indeed to me more confusing!