pschrauber

Sadly the bolt pattern to the TXR is super unique, also the pattern for the front disc mount is one of a kind. Then the engine uses internal a different gearing compared to all other previous or later Aprilias. So everything is a bit different here. It depends to the size you want to have or if you like redneck solutions by simply adding holes where in need. Here the bolt pattern with original rear sprocket: I did not like the original 13 / 38 teeth set up with a 0.342 ratio it is for my taste too fast. As it is not possible to find any ressource for a good trials set up I started to try it out myself ... I tried out a 12 / 42 teeth (0.285), still a tiny bit too fast, then a 11 / 42 teeth (0.262) which was a bit too slow, (and I wanted a smaller rear sprocket). The 11 /42 can be seen below, I took a climber sprocket and just drilled additional holes ...seen here I have now custom fabricated a 40 teeth rear sprocket to fit the 11 teeth front 0.275 which I think will suit my needs. The sprocket above was made by alphatechnic in Germany.

The front pipe of the 199A 350cc should fit too. The front pipe of the 198A or any 250 does not fit (tried to fit one) as the mounting bracket is smaller and the studs holes in the mounting bracket are narrower.

Wow ... well to be honest: YOU are showing of a video whilst riding the quietest modern trials 4 stroke bike available so quite that you can ride through a flock of aries without disturbing them, see here: But yours seems to be obviously louder and then asking how to get the bike quiter (again). And then where your live, the forum is based in Britain and so are most members, the UK is a country that "invented" the English Garden there are as I know only Danes more picky then the British about gardening. And You are showing us grounds/properties with rumped tree and vegetation less, with plasticfoil like fences and gas containers in the main entrance. (even me - as a German!- is appalled at the desolation). Then your other "equipment", here the kind of helmet of course you can do whatever you want, but firstly it's not imitative and second it is not legal. So much consideration could have paid to the other members of these forum to wear at least a real helmet? So all in all your threat opening question gave the audience here a lot room for ironic answers, and in Britain are living the masters of ironic humor that is your problem, as how you shout in the forest the answer will be. In my opinion you should wear better protection and the Honda-Montesa 4RT is in loudness a downgrade the bike will never be as quite as the Beta.

Damm, I forgot how good Leslie Nielsen is. Great stuff!

That reed used as a "breather" must be mounted to the crank case and any build up pressure will be released by the reeds out.

I like the idea. But: The bike has main compounds of todays make mounted so can't be used in our (in DE) classes in either twinshock nor aircooled mono as the engine is litterary brand new. And as longer I think about it as more I feel very comfortabel about our rule. Why hasn't the builder used a Dax 90 engine or even better a Honda Cub engine of the right time period. You get them for little money everywhere. Then it would be no problem to use the bike im any twinshock class. The twinshock class is dedicated to classic and vintage motorcycles. Here the builder has made it for himself too easy and that to the cost of other riders still trying to keep their old engine running, (a complete engine less expensive then a top job for a Fantic 125 is a problem).

Which kind of head steady you use is irrelevant. The standard OEM fork type head steady works great as long as you mount it as the last engine mount and when de- assembling take this part at first away. Second you don't want to put stress on the plate of the fork type head stead by bending it. You need to unthighten and loosing the nut and the bolt to the cylinderhead so it's possible to de- mount the headsteady with ease. To the sprockets I run 10/39 when I remember right? (have to look up)

My personal two cent as also having something with wide spread knobbys in the shed... There are standard inner tubes and reinforced innertubes available. The reinforced are around 4mm in thickness and used mostly for Enduro riding and as these innertubes are too very heavy I don't see any advantage mounting these to a trials bike.

Mmh first you need to take away all dirt. Thus is done the best and easiest way by using car wash shampoo and a smooth brush. Take a big bucket and wash there the tank with much hot water and shampoo. It's astonishing how much you get off. Then there might be some grease oil or others debris left where you need something differnent more a solvent like. Here I had good result with acetone on a fresh rag just applied to the cloth then once wiping form top to bottom. Never use used parts of the cloth twice. Then you will have a dull and partly even whitened gas tank. Now a short treatment with a heat gun with about 200 - 300 deg Celsius and the dull surface will melt up to a silk glosse surface. (All gas has to be drained in advance the drained gas tank should too be stored with cap removed for at least two days the opening should be facing down). Done ... it needs some skills especially the last step. But I don't know a better way to sort the rough surface of the plastic tanks. You might try out the handling of a heat gun before with an old scratched fender or likewise plastic. Any discoloring of the gas tank can't be removed.

Very difficult. The Fantic is already a twinshock and a classic bike so here you have a bright future in terms of sale. The Beta just turned 30 now beeing aclassic bike but still no major classes and class mates ahead. No bright future in the short term sales wise. I think the Beta will rise significant in the long run (next 5 years or after 2020) if you can wait so long. Just now no one need this bike really. I too would keep both and as later you sell the Beta as more you will get. And yes ... I have a Beta TR34 too ...

Hi The rear shocks mounted to my 242 are pretty mich toast aa The springs are too not the right ones I look for replacements. I think I habe figured oit which but I would like to know which is the best length in your experience. Sometimes slightly longer 10mm do provide better handling but sometimes not. Your opinions?

Wasn't it stated in previous threads and posts? There are no pistons available and this sadly hasn't changed in the last three years beside one or two accidental findings at some dealers. Even frequently asking wount cure the problem? 250 - 300 GBP per piston of a run of 10 to 15! that are numbers. As previous mentioned it may be the case that your piston is still reuse able but the cylinder needs an overhaul, but too the opposite can be necessary (the normal case btw.) With a new plating of the cylinder often the con-rod and his bearings are at their end of their lifetime too then these should btw. also been replaced. Get these three main parts checked as with the reasonable amount of money to spent already for one of them it doesn't make sense in the longer run to just replace one instead all three as if one of them fail or got to the end of wear it will effect the others too. I personal had good experience with Woessner from coating (Nikasil), piston forged custom, con rod can be replicated by them too. (found a NOS in France). Woessner did the job very good and priceworthy btw. and you have a guarantee on the three main parts too.

Very useful information about how to dail in and adjust the suspension to your trials bike which covers modern and twinshock bikes and too rear suspension (shocks) and front suspension (forks). Static and dynamic say and so on ... You can look up the complete article which was released in two parts in Trialsport Magazin No. 360 and No.361.

Back in the days when shocks where nothing else than mechanic springs with some damping far away of being progressive you could archive some progressive reaction when they where mounted with lower angle That's why Ossa did it with their Gripper model and these (not very long lasting) Telesco shocks. Luckily these times where over and progressive springs are no available.

At first you need the right springs that matches the bike weight and your weight with gear to your rear shocks and the fork. You can determine the right springs if these deliver the right sag for trials riding static and dynamic. static = standing bike without weight of the rider, dynamic = standing bike with the weight of the rider while standing on the bike (with full gear). If so everything is OK and any personal adjustments then can be made by changing compression, rebound or damping. The main effort is to get the right springs according to your and the bikes weight

In my personal view it's up to the photo the knowledge about a bike or a rider is irrelevant when you look at a photo all what matters is the shot or capture. The right moment of movement or calmness the failure or the win how all is situated where on the photo, that is the spice in photography that's why photography still matters.

Yes You are right, it's the monochoque and with front disc brake fitted 304. Good eye's. The 304 is nice too and I rode one in 1986 very similar to the 242 beside the better front brake and the rear shock setup. I has my best results in trials on 1986 ... To the red 242 the model was even sold in two color schemes with white gas tank and with red gas tank. The red one wasn't sold very much but "survived" for the 304. PS: I just acquired a 242 in super nice state and original a 1984 MKII model. I too fitted it with the red gas tank and seat combo I found abroad as I like that look so much more and the gas tank is made out of PE so no cracks or leaks or difficulties with our gasoline for future riding.

In Europe no problem but in the US I would ask Mike Komer from Tryalsshop in the US. His eMail: Mike(at)tryalsshop.com

I had similar problems with frequently fouled plugs. Also the engine dis not run well There where two issues. Issue #01: It turned out that the engine did not got enough air due to a hole plate mounted inside the air box provided to little air flow. I replaced it against a much less restrictive (in terms of air flow) plate which is more like a mesh and the engine worked much better The second issue was the carb and the float valve it worked good while the engine was.off and the bike stood on even ground. But once the engine was started and the bike stood just a bit up or downhill the carb flooded itself and the cylinder causing a much to rich air gas mixture. The issue was a float valve (brand new) that was about 1mm shorter then the old one. Anyway I would check the air filter if it's not clogged and too the level of the floats also if the seals to the carb are still working here the seals to the: - choke lever (bottom), - choke jet, o-ring, - float valve, rubber cone, - idle and mixture screw the little o-rings inside.

Letting the engine run while waiting in front of a section has been less and less an issue. I think the mind sets in earlier nowadays, not at all, there are exceptions to the rule, to them a short friendly reference and the engine is mostly shut down too.

That is the complete red Cota 242. Very good to see btw. and Thank You very much! To B/W colored photos our Trialsport Magazine turned in color first in the mid of 2000 to 2010 when I remember right ... at least everything published decades before 2000 is black in white beside some special issues like number 200 and number 300 these where partial with color pics. So no problem with B/W that was standard back then.

Twinshocks OK ... I would like to see more of Italjets especially white/green ones Piuma models in action of course. Another Model I would like to see are Montesa Cota 242 in red which is Model 1986 which again came in two variants white and red and pure red I' am looking for pure red ones.

You really need that gear, there is one teeth missing... Sent me the picture and surplus which gear it is in the horizontal and vertical section drawing (see attachment) and I think I can get you one. You know my eMail Patrik, Hannover Page 14.bmp

Again I would leave everything as it is reassemble and in the meantime save some money for a complete rebuild of cylinder, custom made piston and con-rod with new upper and lower pins bearings and if in need thrust washers. That done by one company so no one could blame any other and the next 10 years of happy riding are ahead. There is a saying: The cheap pays twice. And as the part situation isn't the beat anymore and you sometimes need as mentioned here special sizes that than again only fit to NOS cylinders without wear and to replicate just the same coating ... too many incidents, too many conflicts and left over questions.

Well it looks used but still not too bad not to ne used again. The plating looks OK with little wear. The piston is used. To the measurements You made a piston is different in size depending where You measure. The piston should ne a but wider at the bottom compared to the top and also in comparison between the axis in drive direction towards the axis of the piston pin, because the exhaust side is often hotter then the port /intake side. I personal would clean everything up very well polish the piston top and the head Inside, then rebuild all again and ride the bike until you get the feeling the engine has lost power or statt rattling more. Then I would so a complete rebuild including con-rod and crank pin.