pschrauber

Hansjoerg Pfahler in Germany can rebuild your engine and provides parts you need for your engine*. Reimar Bürkmayer in Germany can rebuild your engine and provides The parts you need for your engine* * assuming it's not a rare 199b or 221 or likewise then parts would have to be custom made.

Most important plated cylinder and piston has to match. Some air cooled Monos are known for their bad running behavior. The 250TY and sometimes -not all- batches of Fantics and also Beta TR's with just super noisy engines. If you need both a new cylinder coating and a new piston with rings, pin bearings and circlip, even decide to spend some money in a new con rod and lower pin with bearings. You might ask Woessnerkolben in Germany they do al three things at once, custom build a piston that will fit your cylinder after the old one and plating the cylinder too, then all parts you need too surplus a con-rod with all parts if you are in need. Maybe some extra money spend by a non brainer to me as you get every bit from one supplier and with I the guarantee that it works now and in future. All other combination will be of separated guarantee (if any) a lot of time will pass until everyone knows to which diameter the piston or the cylinder has to be made and so one ... As spread mentioned in my personal experience I can highly recommend their work and craftsmanship.

You might exchange the older rear silencer against a newer one from the Jumbo model. But it's not worth all the hassle. Bed improvement over all would be to give our outtake a good internal clean up I recommend mild blasting. Then cut up your mid box get everything cleaned up very well, (and now the trick), do media blast the hole tube so much that the holes get their original diameter back. If the hole tube is too much corroded buy a new one with some hole pattern and hole diameter out of stainless steal and place it inside. Then get fire proof medium hard rock wool that is sustainable to temperatures above 1000 deg. Celsius and carve out two halves that than can be placed then around the holetube. Rebuild everything and done. For riding use 2stroke oil with very low burning point so it get's burned away instead of thrown out of the muffler and good gasoline ethanol free from 95 to 100ROZ and you engine will stay together with a .NGK BP 4E and a mixture between 1:66,7 and 1:75 very clean inside.

You don't need them if the carb has an extra filter like AMAL, Bing and DellOrto. For the other carbs without an extra filter nigh be a good thing to have as the small plastic mesh tube attached to the petcock sometimes changes place or better said doesn't perform as thought I use Ariete greenish transparent plastic tubes that are available in all sizes and just cost 1 - 2 € the meter depending the size. I would in any case switch to a transparent fuel line much easier to see if gas is running or not.

Mmmh ... probable it will not be eaten as hot as it is cooked now. With our licences you get a full insurance, our trials has to be insured too when comparing the costs for a trials event in the UK there is no big differences instead our trials seems to be mostly cheaper. To the licenses they are paid ... much more expensive as I believe but there are different licenses too. Anyway you get with an insurance a complete bundle of insurances you are even insusred for reparation.

Mmmh ... looks to me like Girling's with the additional spring missing instead more spacers mounted. The Girlings I personal think of that where mounted with double spring and less spacers to yellow SWM's in the beginning eighties.

It depends on how much you use your bike, in which terrain and weather conditions you have ridden. Even which chain you use. In my experience MX chains do last extremely well and worth their money DID ERT2. I replace the chain when the chain has got signs of wear being to long or having too much side play or if the chain has been damaged partly by a rock for example. When I change the chain I change both sprockets too. Worn sprockets will ruin new chains as worn chains can will ruin new sprockets, this is mandatory. I have some bikes. I get several seasons with one chain and sprocket set up when using MX chains. With standard light Regina chains less.

Then everything is save as You will be now occupied for the time between x-mas and new year repairing the SWM.

Reinhard Hallat Salzhemmendorf or if not available anymore: Woessner Kolben for custom made, Woessner do too provide the needed piston pins, piston rings and con-rods if in need.

So if everything is sorted, like carb, intake rubbers (both of them), air filter, engine wise too as I understand, the pressure of the compression we might call OK too. Even timing and a CDI mounted. Then how good is the magnetism of the rotor, the engine is old and with the time the rotor can loose magnetic power if so the spark won' t be as good as it should you might compare with your 320 TL.NW. This can happen by age but too through an hard impact! That would simply produce less electric energy and thus a less good spark, my advice go to the next Bosch service and let them test the rotor you can take the 320 with you for comparison. 20€ well spend.

So did a test run and ... Mmmmh ... yes it's running ... but could run crisper, needs more idle and runs a tad rich in my personal opinion, adjusting the mounted carb did not change much beside idle rev. So I took off the carb and took a deep look inside. Well the carb need's an overhaul, the slide is pretty much worn out, never have seen so much wear ! The jets / all screws where assembled with maximum force, on screw that attaches the flange to the rear manifold towards the airbox was sheared, . I would love to get this carb in decent condition back, what type is it as AMAL has some types of the MKII, is it a 2000, 2600, 2900 or a smoothbore I have no idea? Printed carb- number at the top: 625 720 403 Printed carb- number at the side: L25 27 and below 418 So can someone please get me in the right direction which AMAL type carb I have here? Below some pic's of the mess: Anyway I think I get additional a DellOrto for the bike, the same typo like the TXR have with following set up: carb: PHBH type: CS slide: 45 needle: X4 position: 2nd choke: 60 idle jet: 58 main jet: 92 needle jet: 264BN fuel valve: 200

Well did some research to the Dell'Orto fitted 307, 309, 310 and 310 Evasion they had: Model: 307 309 310 and 310e carb: PHBH26SD PHBH26ZS PHBH26ZS slide: 45 45 45 needle: X11 X32 X4 position: 2nd 2nd 2nd choke: 60 60 60 idle jet: 60 58 58 main jet: 95 92 92 needle jet: 264 BN 264BN 264BN fuel valve: 200 200 200 Sounds good, still thinkin about the Dell' Orto with nozzel jet is the right way.

@BRT40 so I have to ask DellOrto UK? @NigalDabster will look there too In general found a topic about the carb swap at the old ToDo trials form from 2009 the use of the DellOrto was heavily discussed and many settings where posted as too both possible carbs PHBH and PHBL. Without getting a favorit beside the Italian gas air mixer was in favor towards the Spanish Amal. Their jetting set up was quite wide in the range. To make things worse Todo Trials sells now a "ready to race" Mikuni variant too which makes the decision even more difficult. I personal now thinking about the Mikuni clone form DellOrto with air screw and idle jet nozzle or instead the DellOrto VHST which uses the same specs as the PHBH wich a square slide. But still their might be an owner of an 242 which had already done the carb swap and may be can share about his experiences?

There are some companies that do 3D printing for you, one that does really good work, I can recommend and can do prints in all kind of materials is: https://i.materialise.de/ They do prints in all kind of metals, (even gold and titanium), but these are very limited to the size, see here for ther printing possibilities: https://i.materialise.de/3d-printing-materials Price is very depending to the material and form, the cheapest material and easy print starts at 0,55€/cm³.

Hi folks, I' am looking for an alternative carb for a Montesa Cota 242, the OEM fitted Amal is good but shows some wear especially the slide and cylinder area of the carb body , surplus the bike came from a high mountain area and I live at 50m above sea level so I have to readjust the carb of bike quite a bit. As the bikes I have in the garage are fitted with Dell'Ortos, I would like to keep the inventory of spare parts jets, needles gaskets and so on low . So do anyone have tried to swap the Amal through a Dell'Orto and can even provide their choice of jetting's needle and slide? would be great and !

PM sent

Timing of the ignition is very right? You don't have cracks on the intake rubber part that is inside the engine? You have just slightly oiled the filter foam which means everywhere is just a film of oil and no spots with soaked oil?

Mmmh in tho video you rode mostly on idle and quarter throttle. Just for reference let the engine run free a bit on road or lane with longer tracks between half and full throttle. May bee it's just sooted a bit from inside, this will too burn up carbon in the mid section of the exhaust. In my personal experience especially after local club trials on limited ground the engine feels a bit clogged and I then do some km trails (not trials) riding and voilá the engine sounds and feels better (more awaken) again.

Yours? Seems to be a cool 4stroke ride, do have a bigger photo?

Yep that's the case as the sprocket and the swing axel are not at the same point instead a couple of centimeters away from each other there are different lengths between front and rear sprocket when the swing arm moves. This effect can be minimized by less suspension travel, less angled swing arm and less distance between swing axle and front sprocket.

Mmmh these small parts are not easy to find beside used at Fleabay: here: http://www.bdi-production.com/en/92-partie-cycle here: http://bmz-equipements.fr/partie-cycle/1211-came-de-frein-grimeca.html here: https://www.ost-moped.de/grimeca.html But I would ask in forehand if the dimensions are really what you need!

See here for all parts of a roller type, as long as the roller is attached near the rim/tire it's at a relatively secure spot, as the roller does have it's height especially when using bearings.

My Panda still have a roller type chain tensioner and this type is a bit bulkier and too needs maintaince as the roller bearing installed to the roller tensioner wears down depending the weather circumstances. While the slide doesn't need any maintaince beside regularly control and a swap when necessary

You might look up how well the drum brake shaft fits to the bore inside the drum brake plate. The shaft should sit "flush" without any gap. If this assembly is loose fit it the performance of the brake won't be so good as part of the force you engage will be lost through this nonalignment. If the shaft bore has been widened a bit you might install a brass bearing. The shaft and bore should be greased periodically with waterproof grease not cupper grease which attracts dirt too well. Cupper grease can be applied in slight amounts between the upper and lower brake shaft and the brake shoes. Another tipp, keep the inside of the brake clean and wipe out any brake out dust either from the brake hub or the brake plate assembly. This will provide better performance even if there has got water inside, as the dust and the water mixture is a slippery grease. I do look up the springs of the brakes too as these might be bend or been partly exchanged. They should both be similar in strength and length. Last by not least I clean the brake pad with a wire brush from all debris and look up if the shorter edges of the pads are still non rectangles. I now all of the "tipps" above have only little effect but if you have done them all there should be a noticeable improvement in performance and they do also brake good once got wet.

Here I' am not so sure the "GARA" was a radial tubeless tire the MT43 is still diagonal and tube type. Pirelli itself claims that the MT43 has a reinfored carcasse in traditionell set up.