pschrauber

Here I' am not so sure the "GARA" was a radial tubeless tire the MT43 is still diagonal and tube type. Pirelli itself claims that the MT43 has a reinfored carcasse in traditionell set up.

Yep but he is using the Pirelli MT73 GARA tire (not available anymore), You might look up factory photos from Aprilia ...

Found it the new Pirelli tire was developed as to keep up with Michelin who started already two years earlier with their radial tire for all different kind of temperatures and finally sold them to the public as an W version for temp below 17 and a S version for temp. above 17 deg. Celsius. First test where done in late 1982 and where performed through Manual Soler in the last two world GP rounds. Here Pirelli for the first time introduced the non rectangles knobby design. The statement of Krahnstöver (11 times German trials champion): "... Manuel Soler rode the bike with the rubber through the sections but never on the podium" The tire got on the market one year later but with no success. Either the old style Pirelli diagonal tire with the rectangle knobby design was mounted by the manufactures or the Michelin. When I look through the old magazines there where many Michelin advertises some Metzler but no Pirelli at all. Forgot to mention: Trialsport no. 80 from November 1982, page 29.

Before Pirelli had the same rectangle knobby shape like all other brands had ans too some other changes as I mentioned. I should have the test report of that new tire in an issue of Trialsport Magazine of the mid 80's. Hang on I have to look up later in this evening with around 450 issues it takes some time to find out.

Well I referred to the Pirelli tires of the beginning to mid eighties which where mounted to Bultacos, SWM's, Montesas and Fantics. Which where not the same as the tires of the end eighties where Pirelli changed knobby and carcasse design as I mentioned. What differences you are not agreeing?

The old MT43 tire of the beginning to mid eighties is compared to the "new" MT43 different. Pirelli changed the design of the MT43 radically which you can see already depending the knobbies which are different now, they did too change the rubber components. The MT43 is OK for heavier bikes as its carcasses are stiffer too the rubber not as soft as the tires frim IRC, Michelin or new Dunlops. I had also a new set of MT43 mounted to front and rear to a 175cc trials bike which I bought in April 2015. The tires did the job on dry and sand ground well but on slippery ground the tires hadn't the grip I expect from a trials tire. So I switched to Michelin which worked much better depending trials riding. The tire set of the Pirelli's I finally sold to my neighbor that needed them for his TLR200 doing some trails riding in the wood with partly longer road work.

Try a NGK PB4ES instead of a 5 as lonf as you won't like to do MX with the bike for better plug color aka better spark and plug live as it still seems to be too dark in my personal view.

Look complicated with all these fasteners? If you might want to look up a mount that's less complicated (in first hand) you can look up the clamps from Gas-Gas of the 90's (around 1995). These ones are mounted very often to Betor forks of Bultacos in Spain. The fork legs have to be machined to fit the smaller diameter. The bracket for the front fender should be available from Todotrial.

The slow action throttle, the engine of my SWM is so remarkable sensitive to any throttle position and can be "adjusted" so well I can't think I could archive as good "engine behavior" or "response" with a fast throttle. You might give it a try and tell us about the difference?

A standard steel gas tank tap is easy to find for the metal tank, these where used by many manufactures especially for mopeds. The version with the gas tank breather tube on top I haven't found until today...

Sounds OK, could sound darker if you ask me but as you said the noise capturing made it sound like so. Some tickeling inside the engine but they do it sometimes more sometimes less.

Off course it makes sense. The general question was when are events bikes classic or vintage. Answers given and I think as this rule applies not only to motorcycles of all kind and even to cars of all kind and any events where the participate; mission accomplished. The same rule of thumb I would give to reviews to events of the past. And of course there are great events that occurred earlier and when they where famos or interesting back then; I would like to read about them too as for vehicles btw. (made my posting on a trip from while sitting in a train and had as usual the wrong spelling correction app on, I hope all spelling mismatch now corrected ...)

I think it's just the gas I used, picture was taken when I took out the bike for the first ride after hibernation in mid February when we luckily had nice weather (not common). I still had some gasoline over from the last year and used these around two liters it up that day, before refueling with fresh fuel.

We have the 30 year rule, a bike older then 30 years can be insured and road registered as an oldtimer, which is much cheaper and oldtimers can also be used in areas which are environment protected.

Pic's from the powder coated frame:

Habe eine both ans started with a powder coating for a motorcycle frame. The outcome was and still is great. To the preparation as already discussed the frame was completely blasted two times first with steel pellets to get of all old paint and rust then a second time with "Korund" which is the material which is used for grinding paper. The frame was two times coated first with a base coating heat resistant and tempered then with the color coat. The outcome is great but if you have to do repairs cause of scratches by assembly or in later use there is no way to get the same color or glossiness and dullness a powder coat provides. The finish of the powder coating is glossy but to a bit dull something you can't replicate with lacquers, as the color itself btw. too. So I have some issues now to repaired spots... I now switched to standard air brush coatings done by professional car body shops. Preparation is still the same with two stage blasting. Then a base coat with epoxy based paint and then a following coat with standard car paint based on two components. The fresh colored frame has then be tempered so the coating is hardened sufficiently. The finish is very nice and much more glossy. I personal now prefers air brush coatings any repairs you want to do are much easier done and I can polish up the repaired spots very well and these are not visible. Will send pics later if needed? So you see the differences.

Cool, that's how mine fumes with 1:50!

To the mixture I use between 1:66,7 - 1:71, which is around 75 - 70ml of oil to 5l of gas with no problems? (gas: 102 ethanol free pump gas or Aspen fuel, oil: half synthtetic IPONE or Plutoline trials). To the stroking you might please check: - air filter foam which might be clogged or over oiled or to dense (I personal use as little as possible, soak the filter first in oil but then squeeze immediately all out again, which leaves an oily coating and a good air flow) The airfilter should be a bit thicker than standard, (around 15mm instead of 10mm or less), good stuff: http://www.wms-online.de/product_info.php/products_id/1330/name/Luftfiltereinsatz_Malossi_-_Suzuki_Burgman_400.html ) - wrong slide?, (should be 60), - worn slide and thus needle and needle jet?, (X2 for needle and 266AV for needle jet), - wrong jets? (main 90 and pilot 60) - check fuel screw, screwing in means lean, screwing out rich, just the opposite to many SuHonYamKas ...

No Brainer ... if it's in good condition, get it! Fantic sold a lot of them at least in Europe you get spares easy. And as midlife mentioned only a Fantic 240 or the 300 would have an advantage due to their bigger engine displacements. The 200 model was even used in trials world championship before 240 model came out so it's all save riding wise in my opinion.

Tipp for starting the bike. Look up the top dead center then just a bit over and now you have enough engaging space for the momentum needed to start the engine. When done a couple of times and you get used to it works quite well (at least to me).

Last event for the German Trials Championship, held in Osnabrück (North Germany). Nice to view a longer video too with interviews with: - Franz Kadlec, - Therasa Bäumle - Ina Wilde and Gerd Bücker who is still since 1977 responsible for trials riding on the Piesberg "mountain" , so next year will be a big anniversary with stars from the 70's and 80's ... http://www.dmsb.tv/video.php?id=422

Cool, isn't it that Ugo Alberti's SWM Jumbo looks and sounds like it?

Hi Mark, great resource, thank You very much. I ordered one already! I would suggest SAE 7,5 which worked well so far for all forks and shocks to me, (weight is just 70kg!). If you weight more then probably SAE 10 would be better.

Yep it is as simple if you have a nipple that will fit, if you have a soldering iron or pot and a piece of soldering wire or a block and Las not least some flux. I personal would recommend to spread the wires at the end, to perform this I first place the nipple on the wire then place the wire in a vice so that just as much of the wire look out as the nipple is in thickness then I speed the wires to all directions even try to bend them a bit so it looks like a "bird cage". Then pull the nipple over the "nest" dunk it in flux and then heat it up solder it. Second possibility is to buy a new cable from Venhill which has the advantage that it has the right connector with an inbuilt o-ring. Here the cable with inbuilt connector, (I think it's cheaper from Venhill directly): http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-SWM-250-320-CLUTCH-CABLE-TRIALS-1978-1983-VENHILL-/350711778233?nav=SEARCH

There is an adjuster at the spindle of the inner clutchlever. With this screw you can adjust the clutch. To do so you have to unthighten the security nut for which you need the little nut wrench from Rotax. To get to the adjuster screw and secure nut you just have to unscrew the rear plastic plug of the clutch case. Don't forget to rethighten the secure nut properly after adjusting the screw. Mostly you have to hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver whilst thighten the secure nut and all this happens inside ... wrist clock mechanics ...