Habe eine both ans started with a powder coating for a motorcycle frame.
The outcome was and still is great.
To the preparation as already discussed the frame was completely blasted two times first with steel pellets to get of all old paint and rust then a second time with "Korund" which is the material which is used for grinding paper.
The frame was two times coated first with a base coating heat resistant and tempered then with the color coat.
The outcome is great but if you have to do repairs cause of scratches by assembly or in later use there is no way to get the same color or glossiness and dullness a powder coat provides. The finish of the powder coating is glossy but to a bit dull something you can't replicate with lacquers, as the color itself btw. too. So I have some issues now to repaired spots...
I now switched to standard air brush coatings done by professional car body shops. Preparation is still the same with two stage blasting.
Then a base coat with epoxy based paint and then a following coat with standard car paint based on two components. The fresh colored frame has then be tempered so the coating is hardened sufficiently. The finish is very nice and much more glossy.
I personal now prefers air brush coatings any repairs you want to do are much easier done and I can polish up the repaired spots very well and these are not visible.
Will send pics later if needed? So you see the differences.
To the mixture I use between 1:66,7 - 1:71, which is around 75 - 70ml of oil to 5l of gas with no problems? (gas: 102 ethanol free pump gas or Aspen fuel, oil: half synthtetic IPONE or Plutoline trials).
To the stroking you might please check:
- air filter foam which might be clogged or over oiled or to dense
(I personal use as little as possible, soak the filter first in oil but then squeeze immediately all out again, which leaves an oily coating and a good air flow)
The airfilter should be a bit thicker than standard, (around 15mm instead of 10mm or less),
I would suggest SAE 7,5 which worked well so far for all forks and shocks to me, (weight is just 70kg!). If you weight more then probably SAE 10 would be better.
Yep it is as simple if you have a nipple that will fit, if you have a soldering iron or pot and a piece of soldering wire or a block and Las not least some flux.
I personal would recommend to spread the wires at the end, to perform this I first place the nipple on the wire then place the wire in a vice so that just as much of the wire look out as the nipple is in thickness then I speed the wires to all directions even try to bend them a bit so it looks like a "bird cage".
Then pull the nipple over the "nest" dunk it in flux and then heat it up solder it.
Second possibility is to buy a new cable from Venhill which has the advantage that it has the right connector with an inbuilt o-ring.
Here the cable with inbuilt connector, (I think it's cheaper from Venhill directly):
There is an adjuster at the spindle of the inner clutchlever. With this screw you can adjust the clutch.
To do so you have to unthighten the security nut for which you need the little nut wrench from Rotax.
To get to the adjuster screw and secure nut you just have to unscrew the rear plastic plug of the clutch case.
Don't forget to rethighten the secure nut properly after adjusting the screw. Mostly you have to hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver whilst thighten the secure nut and all this happens inside ... wrist clock mechanics ...
Mmmh to the clutch design it's the same for the 350cc MX and GS bikes so the clutch can cope with much more power. This is the -as I think- the reason why it sticks always a bit in the beginning.
The problem can be solved a bit running ATF or this Elf HTX 740 which I use.
To the clutch cable, here you might get one from Venhill as they provide a cable that do seal the cable much better to the clutch casing. I think it will help a lot to tighten the casing.
To the clutch engaging you might look up if there is some wear in the mechanics.
The Enduro and MX models used bigger balls and a longer engaging arm this will help action wise and will lower the force you need to engage a bit. (at least at my SWM and from a fellow I know, but heard now it van too stiffen the set up?). The clutch engage assembly kit is provided from Rotax, if you have problems getting one send me an PM, there is a dealer in Italy which still sell them nut you need a trade tax number and they don't speak English.
Last not least a new set of clutch plates might be a good investiture too.
Well digitizing things from old decals, photos or even do 3D renderings I do too. But I don't process items I just send the drawings.
One thing I have noticed by doing my own stickers is the drawings should be made by vectors and blocks / fillings and PS as printer language has to be used.
For anything that should be cutter dxf and deg are the best digital format, especially for laser cut pieces.
Why not buy a sheet of plastic board and cut it out too your needs by yourself?
I did this for in many occasions bust result you will get with a bandsaw with low speed and a sawband with tight hacks or a jigsaw with a metal sawblade and low rpm. For using the jig saw I would suggest to use a high density wood board arons 4mm in thickness on which you fastn the plastic board this gives a more smooth cut. Then some grinding to smooth the edges and a polish and it will look perfect?
Well I do keep record to longer trials especially to trials hiking, which I do frequently and with long routes
and limited luggage non existing gas stations in between fuel can be an issue if you have no idea about
the fuel consumption. So I keep record. Just you probably don't have any needs to do so as you are in
organized areas it's not everywhere so.
Here one of my time/speed/distance track for one lap at a longer trials:
As a round course with just 22km and a paddock in the middle no problem.
But in areas where there is no gas station / restaurant / kiosk on the way, not even a street or any traffic where you do trips of length between 50 - 100km you have to know how much extra fuel you have to take with you. At least I don't want to carry too much with me as some basic tools and spares and of course some food and beverage has to be carried too.
The TO haven't posted in which area he want to ride and how their are, but in own experience there the differences I mentioned are there, just because you haven't experienced by yourself
doesn't mean it's not happening.
To give a picture here of a trip, the different areas during the day, it where I do kind of trials hiking:
It depends very much how you ride and to which purpose.
While riding in the mountains with steep slopes and long uphills the Bikes used most also wenn you have set up the carb in 1000m a ove sea level and then ride in heights of 2000m the bike will usw much more gas
The average consumption for a Sherpa is around 50 - 60 km a tank (4.5 liters).
Just to note I got similar consumption with a SWM 320 and even with a Beta TR 34.
With the original Bing I would say more towards 50km with a Dell'Orto or OKO or Mikuni more towards 60km with one tank.
When doing long trips with the bike I have a fuel friend canister with me. The canister holds 1.5 liter for a very long ride I've done with 30% mountain trails, 30% trial trails and 40% gravel and asphalt roads the bike used 7,5 liter for 100km, 1 tank and 2 fuel friend canister. On the way home when filling up the tank with the last canister I tried to ride very fuel efficient and literally with the last drop of gas I managed to get home.
116£ wow there must be something special with the cable.
I paid less for one brake line with banjos and 6 cables for various SWM and Aprilia trials Bikes two month ago. I ordered for some friends of mine in Germany and myself to split the shipping costs...)
I know figured out to which bike they go. The company is from Britain and the number states for Puchs (aka Rotax) so these are for our SWM. I haven't changed the condenser or the points to my bike they still do the wir perfect.
I was first a bit unsure but with help of a torch and lurking in the small window I could compare them. So these parts will finally went inside the right box ...
OK cutting away some mm from the outer cable is of course the easiest and best way to solve the issue.
? ? ?
And cables with an inner tube of Teflon a nice to have. I haven't looked up the inner tube of the cables so far good to know will in the futur ask about inner cable tubes in Teflon.
@Metisse I press my thump that the "surgery" will improve the cluth a bit. If the cable hasn't an inner tube out of Teflon you might use Teflon based oil?
Anyway looking forward to the outcome and performance after the inner clutch lever modification.
Do the end of the cable fit inside the machined notch/hollow of the "connectors" screwed in the top cover of the Dell'Orto the chromed end cap of the outer cable (sleeve) should slide inside quite a bit. To some of these "connectors" the diameter is just a bit to small and you have to drill them up just a tiny bit to make them fit to the cable?
Mmmh ... the throttle, is it a Domino trials throttle? and have you still a Dell'Orto carb fitted?
Then the gas cable should fit very well? At least it does to my SWM 320?
To the brake cables there are to each fork (Betor or Marzocchi) two different cable mounts possible,
I have got into the habit to give Venhill the lengths of each cable the bike need and if not as standard available I take their semi finished cables to get the right length.
Just added a fine running 199A to collection of trials bikes. I'd like to update this one without going too crazy. I will be riding it here in the USA in vintage and AHRMA. I really don't think any modification is needed to be competitive but in reviewing the forums, the following modifications look interesting to me.
Move foot pegs back and down.
Modify the handle bar mounting to eliminate the "tiller-effect."
Add needle bearings to the clutch actuator to improve action.
I'm looking for opinions on these modifications and any recommendations on others.
Thanks.
In my personal opinion, I'am very OK with that !!!
- a new pairs of good and grooved brake-pads alingend to the drum.
If the chrome inside the hubs is considerable damaged an inliner of steel is an improvement (Will fix the issue)
When the chrome inside the hub is fine the brakes does work well, but very frequent cleaning the inside of the hub is necessary to keep the chrome. healthy.
A Dell' Orto or Mikuni / OKO instead the Bing carburator would save you a good amount of gas an give better throttle response.
!!!
Power Coat Or Paint
in Bultaco
Posted
Pic's from the powder coated frame: