pschrauber

I can highly recommend to do a trials holiday in the Alpes, weather modern, air cooled mono or with a classic trials bike. You can do it by your own, if you know where it is still possible to ride free know the people and the rules. Or you can book trials holidays in Austria: 1. possibility: http://www.salzstiegl.at/de/trial-park/trial-camp?gclid=CjwKEAjwu8m-BRDM8KTcjdj8qy0SJACdjSZpWU_7wFU-f393TtAWpMx4unoGA-1lxYPmPAeAXeoiaBoCo1jw_wcB 2. possibility: http://www.trialhof.at/ or Italy: http://www.hoteloasiverde.it/ or France: http://www.ardeche-pur.ch/index.html Anyway already the spectacular views are worth it!

Hi Bronie, thank You. I know figured out to which bike they go. The company is from Britain and the number states for Puchs (aka Rotax) so these are for our SWM. I haven't changed the condenser or the points to my bike they still do the wir perfect. I was first a bit unsure but with help of a torch and lurking in the small window I could compare them. So these parts will finally went inside the right box ...

OK cutting away some mm from the outer cable is of course the easiest and best way to solve the issue. ? ? ? And cables with an inner tube of Teflon a nice to have. I haven't looked up the inner tube of the cables so far good to know will in the futur ask about inner cable tubes in Teflon. @Metisse I press my thump that the "surgery" will improve the cluth a bit. If the cable hasn't an inner tube out of Teflon you might use Teflon based oil? Anyway looking forward to the outcome and performance after the inner clutch lever modification.

Do the end of the cable fit inside the machined notch/hollow of the "connectors" screwed in the top cover of the Dell'Orto the chromed end cap of the outer cable (sleeve) should slide inside quite a bit. To some of these "connectors" the diameter is just a bit to small and you have to drill them up just a tiny bit to make them fit to the cable?

Mmmh ... the throttle, is it a Domino trials throttle? and have you still a Dell'Orto carb fitted? Then the gas cable should fit very well? At least it does to my SWM 320? To the brake cables there are to each fork (Betor or Marzocchi) two different cable mounts possible, I have got into the habit to give Venhill the lengths of each cable the bike need and if not as standard available I take their semi finished cables to get the right length.

Hi whilst cleaning up the garage I found a condensator and points. Sadly I have no clue to which bike they Will go. Can ne either to SWM or Bultaco??

In my personal opinion, I'am very OK with that !!!

Brakes, brakes and brakes, ... - a new pairs of good and grooved brake-pads alingend to the drum. If the chrome inside the hubs is considerable damaged an inliner of steel is an improvement (Will fix the issue) When the chrome inside the hub is fine the brakes does work well, but very frequent cleaning the inside of the hub is necessary to keep the chrome. healthy. A Dell' Orto or Mikuni / OKO instead the Bing carburator would save you a good amount of gas an give better throttle response.

Age is also to take in consideration. Last bike I found still had Michelin X1 from 1988 mounted. Geez these tires where stiff I left out all air in the rear tire and the tire still performed as I would have filled at least 1 bar. Very random grip, it got a bit better after an hour of riding around, I gave the bike to the workshop for getting new tires they will be painful to get off the rim without a machine.

May ne a very early modification? Anyway the bearing mod does have an effect at least to my bike as it still have the short actuating lever and it works too on b models.

I just wanted to be helpful in my first post in this thread. All I got from the TO as reply where corrections and an advise at least I don't want to follow as I explained in my second post on this thread. And that I di feel a bit uncomfortable when I try to be helpful and then got blamed for not knowing what in reality was up from the guy that just asked is evident and I have no problem to speak it out too. The TO can do write state what ever he things is eligible but should in my opinion think about that WE ALL are sitting an a kind of a glad house so throwing stones is probably not the best idea. Have a nice day Sir.

Well very interesting your last post, so you did change the reservoir of this shock. Then you kindly have reported in your last post that the shock is leaking a lot of oil. Pardon ... but would it not be appropriate to tell these circumstances in your first post. Pardon again ... but to let first guess around and later on come with all details is a bit strange. To your shock this model from Marzocchi was made without any intension for rebuilding, but as already stated the seals are replaceable. Beside that you need some experience and the right tools, especially when it comes to the refill of oil and gas. And when the diaphragm between the oil and the gas in the reservoir is toast due of too low gas pressure you will have a hard time to get this fixed. A professional workshop can fix this (at least where I let shocks and forks to be rebuild) as they can in need remanufacture one. To the bottom rubber I like to have one that has a sealed surface as if you cut any kind of foam in a custom shape or drill holes inside there are everywhere hallows from the the foam bubbles attracting dust, dirt, water and oil immediately. A circumstance I want to avoid, rather I don't use any bottom rubber unto I have found the matching item. Good luck with your home made rebuild and please don't forget the saying: "The cheap guy is paying twice" ...

I would look up the gas filling. The gas evaporates with the time probably to through the valve. That was all I had to do to the shock of my TXR, only thing I need ow is a new bottom rubber. ...

For torque and smoothness the Rotax, best air cooled is the one of the Aprilia TXR. For a good all around performance and lightness the Montesa Cota 242, 304, 307 and 309 engine. In small capacity classes the Fantic engines as already mentioned model 200, 240 or 300. The TY for 125 pumped with better carb exhaust and so one or the Rotax the Austrian engine is better.

I still would prefere just standard plugs, the expensive ones doesn't work better for two strokes in my personal experience, the super expensive plugs for racing are out of financel reach and the other high tech plugs are made through the demand of the car industry because the sdervice intervalls has been doubeld at least. Thus plugs with longer durability where needed which doesn't mean they work better! If you don't have a bright blue spark whioch do even makes a noticeable noise on a standard Bultaco magnet and point's ignition you have an ignition issue. If there is a blue spark than as Nigel Dabster already mentioned the carb or his surroundings are the problem,

See here: https://www.ngk.de/fileadmin/Dokumente/DE/downloads_not_used_in_download_area/ngk_code_zuendkerzen_de.pdf

Wow that's a platnium plug! I personal doubt it's so much better as in electric conduction copper is only outperformed by silver even gold is less good! Physics measured in: σ in S/m Silver 61 · 10^6 Copper 58 · 10^6 Gold 45 · 10^6 Aluminium 37 · 10^6 Wolfram 19 · 10^6 Probably the tip of the standard copper plug is a little bit a backdraw but the connection between the cooper core and the tip is made so that as much as possible electrons can be transferred... Platnium 10,2· 10^6 (nearly forgot but not very good as seen here!)

Had similar effects with Standard plugs NGK BP 5ES on Bultaco and SWM, it was bad, they even spoild the plugs total until no spark occured, which too happend in these moments you never wan't it would happen. Try a hotter plug, my bikes are running much better on a BP 4ES!

It must be someone who knows all about Bultaco the bikes and all tweaks, repairs and builds, have all the connections knows where to replicate parts and of course he or she has to be good in business too. I don't think it will happen by someone new it will more likely be bought up from someone how has a likewise business like probably Iván Cireé, (that's a guess !!!). Would be great if Orlando Calonder would buy them he would be perfect, I believe he has the financel power too. But he is also of the old generation. It will be interesting to follow...

You should even with a drum brake have the possibility to lock the wheel, that's mandatory for any rod registration at least where I live.

Just to make sure: What cables did you mount? There are cables around where the wire is OK but the cable hose which is basically a metal spiral with a plastic coating at the outside. When you engage the lever most of it's energy is used by pressing the metal spiral together instead of engaging the brake. My personal favorite for cable are: - Swiss Hortz cables or - Venhill cables with thick wire. I never had problems with NOS brake shoes and also in my experience they work best just a tiny bit better then anything you get made from today probably because they have still as best inside? (I use a mask when working to my brakes as the dust ... can be very unhealthy).

That was only applied -as I know- to thw TXR model which at that extra plumbing to crankcase, carburator and air bos with an extra Little tank inbetween. But the clutch casing would ne different. Is there a screw in the power front of the engine case? If so than it might be a self made solution (I guess). I just has to use the drain screw once when I was first time in the Alpes coming from 50m above sea level and tried to start the bike in 1500m. My low level carb adjustment overflooded the crank really fast ...

Mmmh the photo is blurred or fuzzy can you post a better one? Is it that thingy in different color at which you are pointing with an Allan wrench? There should not be a grease nipple if this is one?

Yes these are the pictures I sent noel spread a link to my picture stack as I can't perform so well just with a smart phone equipped. All internal were taken out instead a conus shaped hole tube with insulation was installed. Weight loss is about a third I don't have the number at my hand now. No difference in performance and loudness beside a slightly better pick up of revs. The hole unite is thinner then the bulkier original but looks very much the same.

Hi Joel, I' ve sent you the link to my picture stack where you can take a look, with a smart phone my performing depending the www are sadly very limited, you might lol there.