pschrauber

I use Aspen too, to prevent detonation in high altitudes I use the racing mix (99-102), but too the standard mix for the saw and brush cutter. When I recently needed some fuel for the saw and the brush cutter for some meadow and forest work and went to my local shop they had Husqvarna mix for sale the same indigents, so based on alkyd like Aspen. It should have a bit more octane (98) than standard Aspen (95) and is much price worthier instead 18€ per 5l just 13€ per 5l. I tried it out with the brush cutter and after 2 refills I'am very pleased smoke free engine is accelerating great stable high rpm no spotting of oil when using low to mid rpm. The fuel is colored and it seems it's really blended with Husqvarnas 2stroke oil as it has the same nice smell. Anyway will try it out to the bikes now when I come home.

I'am in summer modus at this moment here in the archipelago around 20km from the coast the www is accessable but not very fast when I will be in the beginning next week again at the nearest vilage (supermarket). I can sent pics again if that is OK. And I will clean up my PM messenger inbox inbetween.

But between 1:66,7 to 1:70 there is rarely a difference ...

May be for later models but NOT for air cooled engines from TR 32 to TR 35. If the TO doesn't own a water cooled bike sold under different name?

Beta recommend 1:50 or 2%. I' am using 1:66,7% or 75ml of oil mixed in a 5 liter gas tank with no issues. To the oil: Plutoline scentend for trials bikes or IPONE for trials bikes. Both of them are not full synthetic.

As most fork springs get tired with the time you often look after a pair that's still fresh and fits to your machine and personal weight. With the fork lit you get new springs that's suits your weight, with the cartridges you get a much finer reaction and too a more progressive dampning. The rebuild makes sense if your stanchions are straight and chrome is good. ( I never got an old bike so far where the stanchions where really straight. If so the rebuild makes sense.

Yep have them installed works nice. The unit with air cartridges on both side works best. The other set-up with cartridge (bought to the TR) has in one side the cartridge and in the other side adjustable springs this set up has more tweaks but makes sounds ... kind of "clong" while the fork get's suppressed. I don't like the noise and for adjusting you have to take out the springs ... so if again I will go for both sides with cartridges again ...

Mmmh ... that's a task. As you mentioned that the bike dies at less run better when the choke is on, have you looked around the rubber inlet between carb and manifold is there no airleak cause of cracks in the rubber not only in the body of the rubber flange around but too to at the sides from the inside to outside. Sometimes the paper seal between cylinder and intake can have been damaged too this connection is thight too? Last not least just try another plug especially IF there is a plug with inbuilt resistor mounted. In my personal experience the bike runs better with a hotter plug then recommended. For NGK it should be PB 5 ES but that type does fail without warning, now using a PB 4 ES which does the work now for two years, (may be I'am a tad slow too).

Sounds to me you did all things right. There is one thing I would like to be checked as it is an old bike. How is fuel supply. I never had a used bike where the petcock wasn't somehow clogged. It would too explain the "uneven" running.

My quick thoughts to your matter: A mounted electronic ignition is a very good way to improve the engine performance. Are you sure the timing is set right too? The jets are also the right ones? How old is the air filter and is the filter clean and proper oiled (not too much oil used). I would too check the piston/slide to wear as too loose fit can worsen the engine performance quite a bit.

I see one BIG benefit the insulation inside will be easy to replace but the appearance ... well ... there is room for improvement

= super skills and a twinshock Bou? Sorry for winding up but it was so obvious. It really depends to the underground and yes in classic trials it doesn't matters so much, the radial tires came first in the beginning 80's and were firstly only available for works riders. With the TY mono the new Michelin radial tire was available for the public in W and S version, these tires changed the riding style completly in trials. W = winter = temp. under 17°C S = summer = temp. over 17°C Anyway the benefits between a very good or a decent trials tire when new are also obvious on a twin shock bike the way the carcasse is build (diagonal or radial inforcement makes a huge difference) and what rubber mixture is used really makes a difference. Still 75% is up to the rider and with a tire that sticks more to ground even on slippery and wet surfaces gives you more confidence.

I haven't tried out to ride with too little air pressure in doubt I use a tad more a puncture is something I really don't need as I' am very bad in working with tires take them off and on again... Nevertheless I believe it is possible to ride which less air in a tubeless tire then in a tube tire. There is less risk the rip of the valve. But there is to both type of tires the rust the tire will leave the rim bead more then it's harmless.

Depens to so many factors where you have ridden, have you done some road riding with the bike, age. I recently changed the tires for the SWM they where mounted in 2012. The edges were pretty well rounded and there were too some deep cuts too. Then the knobbies of the tire had some wear in highness too due to some road riding. But mostly the tire got stiffer compared to a new one I had mounted to another bike and in fact the newer tire did stick better on nearly every ground. Interesting on grass there was no difference as you mentioned. But sand, stones and logs were significant better to travel with the new tires. To mount them "in other direction" I did not test as the in rear stiffnes was my personal reason to change.

Thanks Ross, will get the smaller sprockets front and rear. My concern was that there could be any negative impacts due the chain travelling upon the swing arm shaft but is from experience not the case. See draft:

I was uncertain the 11teeth is so small compared to the original mounted 13teeth I believe it is that impression and the fact that the swing arm axle is mounted high so the upper part of the chain climbs a bit up rests on the the chain guide and then travels down to the sprocket. When you have mounted a 13 front and 42 at the rear it does not happen. Therefore I asked too?

I' am "fiddeling" with gearing of my bike (Aprilia TXR) to find the ratio that fit's to my riding /personal taste. First try was: 42 rear + 12 front which was to high, 42 rear + 11 front was too slow, 42/12 = 3.50 42/11 = 3.82 Now there are two possibilities: 40/11 = 3.63 44/12 = 3.74 (with a half link) Which won to choose: a smaller rear sprocket won't be hit so easy accidentally then a bigger one. Then again a 11 teeth front sprocket will wear faster is difficult to get thus expensive compared to a 12 teeth. What would you choose or any better ratios?

I can only refer to classic Trials, to the fees for entrys: The fee is around 15 - 25 € per event, it's in first hand for the insurance and second first-aid/rescue team with ambulance truck. Both is mandantory for trials events. For nationals you need additional too a licence which is between 10 - 50€ depending age and membership to motorsport associations. For non clubmembers for riding on our trials- trail- and training area there is a fee which is 10 € per day, additional you have to sign a liability waiver to the Club too to wear safty equipment and follow the environmental rules.

A press release at the local press is what my club do, it does attract people to come by and look at the trials not many that never had been in touch with trials but a few and these that came once do come then frequently or sign up too. We also did an article from the trials, now the local press send a reporter too. It has only a local impact but still an impact.

When reading your posted numbers the engine should be from a model 199A this model should not have rails under the engine just the bash plate. The frame as you mentioned has rails so the question is what you have for a frame. As the bike was used with a sidecar it can be possible that the rails or tubes were welded additional to the frame to reinforce it. The frame number should be located at the steering stem of the frame towards more to the right in driving direction. You might look there, with thick additional paint applied the numbers might be covered. You can use paint stripper to the steering stem tube to take off the layers of paint for getting probably a view to the number. As the previous poster mentioned some photos from the former sidecar frame would be great, too from the other frame and you engine this which might clarify doubts. I personal would still try to get matching engine and frame assembled together if they are truly the same and if the salvage isn't too expensive. Straightening the frame does need some time and skills. Thumps up for your rebuild!

They are still available in Germany and Italy, you will get an PM. Mike Kromer is very helpful if he hasn't then it's really difficult to find one in the US.

Dell'Orto as all my other bikes are using them (SWM, KTM, Beta and Aprilia), best available collection of jets and needles, floats and valves also easy to mount. The Bing is nice but the bikes are using far more gasoline with this carb the Bing is also not so easy tune to the engine needs.

The frame is very different to twinshock bikes the wheelbase for example is very short. The bike has too a lot of steering angle I would compare it ridewise to the Beta TR 34 in geometrics. The seat position is high and a bit old school in this matter Betas, Fantics and even Montesas of that era where lower. The engine is the same as in the SWM 320 model even equipped with a heavy rotor, but no extra weight on the left side so more lively. The carb is the Mikuni clone from Dell'Orto with a idle nozzle jet and an air screw instead a mixture screw. Beside this the clutch mechanism is enhanced a lot. Last but not least the exhaust is different offering a much lower noise and the rear muffler allows easier airflow. The behavior is still Rotax in every aspect but much quicker throttle response. We have an air cooled mono bike class so it can be ridden there. With the old fashion seat high, the low noise and the large capacity of the petrol tank you can too use it (in my opinion) very well for Motoalpinismo. Which will be the main purpose of use in future.

It's a nice bike, the color design is unique like Italian blueberry and strawberry ice cream. I know getting parts have become difficult, and it's an one off batch, just build in 1988, the former TX 311 is different and the later Climber too. But they are smooth to ride, it's very quiet, the suspension is very good too. I just did a spin again today with my new aquistion after getting some things sorted not all.

Standard Domino grips sold and mounted on trialsbikes for decades are the best in my experience and I tried out a lot. In my experience: Fancy colors get dirty, Groove structures feels uncomfortable, Too fine structures are attracting dirt thus difficult to clean, they are too not very grippy. Super soft grips are not my fashion as super hard ones. As softer the grip as easier they will come off while super hard ones are not so comfortable. All in all to the stated pros and cons my personal conclusion and choose are the standard Dominos they do last very long have the right grip are still soft but hard in once. They are even easy to install a bit of WD40 or brake cleaner inside the grip hole and on the bar end then a quick push while turning and that's it. You have to wait a day until all the cleaner fluid has evaporated. Another thing to consider they are price worthy too.