pschrauber

Just to make sure: What cables did you mount? There are cables around where the wire is OK but the cable hose which is basically a metal spiral with a plastic coating at the outside. When you engage the lever most of it's energy is used by pressing the metal spiral together instead of engaging the brake. My personal favorite for cable are: - Swiss Hortz cables or - Venhill cables with thick wire. I never had problems with NOS brake shoes and also in my experience they work best just a tiny bit better then anything you get made from today probably because they have still as best inside? (I use a mask when working to my brakes as the dust ... can be very unhealthy).

That was only applied -as I know- to thw TXR model which at that extra plumbing to crankcase, carburator and air bos with an extra Little tank inbetween. But the clutch casing would ne different. Is there a screw in the power front of the engine case? If so than it might be a self made solution (I guess). I just has to use the drain screw once when I was first time in the Alpes coming from 50m above sea level and tried to start the bike in 1500m. My low level carb adjustment overflooded the crank really fast ...

Mmmh the photo is blurred or fuzzy can you post a better one? Is it that thingy in different color at which you are pointing with an Allan wrench? There should not be a grease nipple if this is one?

Yes these are the pictures I sent noel spread a link to my picture stack as I can't perform so well just with a smart phone equipped. All internal were taken out instead a conus shaped hole tube with insulation was installed. Weight loss is about a third I don't have the number at my hand now. No difference in performance and loudness beside a slightly better pick up of revs. The hole unite is thinner then the bulkier original but looks very much the same.

Hi Joel, I' ve sent you the link to my picture stack where you can take a look, with a smart phone my performing depending the www are sadly very limited, you might lol there.

I use Aspen too, to prevent detonation in high altitudes I use the racing mix (99-102), but too the standard mix for the saw and brush cutter. When I recently needed some fuel for the saw and the brush cutter for some meadow and forest work and went to my local shop they had Husqvarna mix for sale the same indigents, so based on alkyd like Aspen. It should have a bit more octane (98) than standard Aspen (95) and is much price worthier instead 18€ per 5l just 13€ per 5l. I tried it out with the brush cutter and after 2 refills I'am very pleased smoke free engine is accelerating great stable high rpm no spotting of oil when using low to mid rpm. The fuel is colored and it seems it's really blended with Husqvarnas 2stroke oil as it has the same nice smell. Anyway will try it out to the bikes now when I come home.

I'am in summer modus at this moment here in the archipelago around 20km from the coast the www is accessable but not very fast when I will be in the beginning next week again at the nearest vilage (supermarket). I can sent pics again if that is OK. And I will clean up my PM messenger inbox inbetween.

But between 1:66,7 to 1:70 there is rarely a difference ...

May be for later models but NOT for air cooled engines from TR 32 to TR 35. If the TO doesn't own a water cooled bike sold under different name?

Beta recommend 1:50 or 2%. I' am using 1:66,7% or 75ml of oil mixed in a 5 liter gas tank with no issues. To the oil: Plutoline scentend for trials bikes or IPONE for trials bikes. Both of them are not full synthetic.

As most fork springs get tired with the time you often look after a pair that's still fresh and fits to your machine and personal weight. With the fork lit you get new springs that's suits your weight, with the cartridges you get a much finer reaction and too a more progressive dampning. The rebuild makes sense if your stanchions are straight and chrome is good. ( I never got an old bike so far where the stanchions where really straight. If so the rebuild makes sense.

Yep have them installed works nice. The unit with air cartridges on both side works best. The other set-up with cartridge (bought to the TR) has in one side the cartridge and in the other side adjustable springs this set up has more tweaks but makes sounds ... kind of "clong" while the fork get's suppressed. I don't like the noise and for adjusting you have to take out the springs ... so if again I will go for both sides with cartridges again ...

Mmmh ... that's a task. As you mentioned that the bike dies at less run better when the choke is on, have you looked around the rubber inlet between carb and manifold is there no airleak cause of cracks in the rubber not only in the body of the rubber flange around but too to at the sides from the inside to outside. Sometimes the paper seal between cylinder and intake can have been damaged too this connection is thight too? Last not least just try another plug especially IF there is a plug with inbuilt resistor mounted. In my personal experience the bike runs better with a hotter plug then recommended. For NGK it should be PB 5 ES but that type does fail without warning, now using a PB 4 ES which does the work now for two years, (may be I'am a tad slow too).

Sounds to me you did all things right. There is one thing I would like to be checked as it is an old bike. How is fuel supply. I never had a used bike where the petcock wasn't somehow clogged. It would too explain the "uneven" running.

My quick thoughts to your matter: A mounted electronic ignition is a very good way to improve the engine performance. Are you sure the timing is set right too? The jets are also the right ones? How old is the air filter and is the filter clean and proper oiled (not too much oil used). I would too check the piston/slide to wear as too loose fit can worsen the engine performance quite a bit.

I see one BIG benefit the insulation inside will be easy to replace but the appearance ... well ... there is room for improvement

= super skills and a twinshock Bou? Sorry for winding up but it was so obvious. It really depends to the underground and yes in classic trials it doesn't matters so much, the radial tires came first in the beginning 80's and were firstly only available for works riders. With the TY mono the new Michelin radial tire was available for the public in W and S version, these tires changed the riding style completly in trials. W = winter = temp. under 17°C S = summer = temp. over 17°C Anyway the benefits between a very good or a decent trials tire when new are also obvious on a twin shock bike the way the carcasse is build (diagonal or radial inforcement makes a huge difference) and what rubber mixture is used really makes a difference. Still 75% is up to the rider and with a tire that sticks more to ground even on slippery and wet surfaces gives you more confidence.

I haven't tried out to ride with too little air pressure in doubt I use a tad more a puncture is something I really don't need as I' am very bad in working with tires take them off and on again... Nevertheless I believe it is possible to ride which less air in a tubeless tire then in a tube tire. There is less risk the rip of the valve. But there is to both type of tires the rust the tire will leave the rim bead more then it's harmless.

Depens to so many factors where you have ridden, have you done some road riding with the bike, age. I recently changed the tires for the SWM they where mounted in 2012. The edges were pretty well rounded and there were too some deep cuts too. Then the knobbies of the tire had some wear in highness too due to some road riding. But mostly the tire got stiffer compared to a new one I had mounted to another bike and in fact the newer tire did stick better on nearly every ground. Interesting on grass there was no difference as you mentioned. But sand, stones and logs were significant better to travel with the new tires. To mount them "in other direction" I did not test as the in rear stiffnes was my personal reason to change.

Thanks Ross, will get the smaller sprockets front and rear. My concern was that there could be any negative impacts due the chain travelling upon the swing arm shaft but is from experience not the case. See draft:

I was uncertain the 11teeth is so small compared to the original mounted 13teeth I believe it is that impression and the fact that the swing arm axle is mounted high so the upper part of the chain climbs a bit up rests on the the chain guide and then travels down to the sprocket. When you have mounted a 13 front and 42 at the rear it does not happen. Therefore I asked too?

I' am "fiddeling" with gearing of my bike (Aprilia TXR) to find the ratio that fit's to my riding /personal taste. First try was: 42 rear + 12 front which was to high, 42 rear + 11 front was too slow, 42/12 = 3.50 42/11 = 3.82 Now there are two possibilities: 40/11 = 3.63 44/12 = 3.74 (with a half link) Which won to choose: a smaller rear sprocket won't be hit so easy accidentally then a bigger one. Then again a 11 teeth front sprocket will wear faster is difficult to get thus expensive compared to a 12 teeth. What would you choose or any better ratios?

I can only refer to classic Trials, to the fees for entrys: The fee is around 15 - 25 € per event, it's in first hand for the insurance and second first-aid/rescue team with ambulance truck. Both is mandantory for trials events. For nationals you need additional too a licence which is between 10 - 50€ depending age and membership to motorsport associations. For non clubmembers for riding on our trials- trail- and training area there is a fee which is 10 € per day, additional you have to sign a liability waiver to the Club too to wear safty equipment and follow the environmental rules.

A press release at the local press is what my club do, it does attract people to come by and look at the trials not many that never had been in touch with trials but a few and these that came once do come then frequently or sign up too. We also did an article from the trials, now the local press send a reporter too. It has only a local impact but still an impact.

When reading your posted numbers the engine should be from a model 199A this model should not have rails under the engine just the bash plate. The frame as you mentioned has rails so the question is what you have for a frame. As the bike was used with a sidecar it can be possible that the rails or tubes were welded additional to the frame to reinforce it. The frame number should be located at the steering stem of the frame towards more to the right in driving direction. You might look there, with thick additional paint applied the numbers might be covered. You can use paint stripper to the steering stem tube to take off the layers of paint for getting probably a view to the number. As the previous poster mentioned some photos from the former sidecar frame would be great, too from the other frame and you engine this which might clarify doubts. I personal would still try to get matching engine and frame assembled together if they are truly the same and if the salvage isn't too expensive. Straightening the frame does need some time and skills. Thumps up for your rebuild!