pschrauber

Old style twinshocks or new ones?

You might get a donor engine case in any case a new disc. I wouldn't try using knead metal JB-weld or similar stuff as through vibration a part of the repaired spots can get loose and the output would be similar to what you have now. Engines do show up here and there ask the community here look at LeBonCoin in France, Kiiji and Subito in Italy. (Had a likewise problem with my TR so needed too the basement which I found for good price in Italy).

Well... while the sticker tells me the car / engine combination was build in Germany, the music tells me that this car was made in former east Germany. Anyway these radial engine need much space (beside for an air plane). The Finnish Navy uses speed boats with radial engines. I personal like these Lanz Bulldog 20liter one cylinder tractors a lot never thought an engine can run so slowly and still being so strong without having any hp to mention about.

I believe, (not sure) the previous poster are reffering to this little item, that is located inside: (at the photo it is the jet on the top: The parts diagram is here, but be very careful by reading, as then PHBH can be fittet in many different ways; - with air screw or with fuel mixture screw, - with the idle jet inside (as shown above) and sits at the top towards the carb bore or with the 5mm idle Jet that's located at the bottom, - also different chokes, bowls, ... http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_images/dellorto_carb_diagram_phbh_page_1.jpg

Can be the seals, very much work. There is no air leak and the carb is clean Mmmh ... fuel supply is OK, jets are the right ones??

Clogging: You might again take a very close look to the bottom screw that holds the bowl and the main jet. The hollow inside the bolt or screw is wider then the thread hole for the main jet the bottom to of the hollow is the deepest spot of the carb inside there can have been collected a bit of crud with the time that can be collected by the gas flow and provide a clogged jet. I would too unscrew the mixture screw and give the inside a good clean flush with carb cleaner and compressed air. The small O-ring might be insufficient too. Any other channel of the carb and the bowl (there is one too) I would give too a good flush with cleaner and compressed air. It's often just small thingies that can change the behavior a lot ...

Where is the mixture screw located? Between slide and intake then it's a fuel mixture screw. Between slide and airbox manifold then it's a air mix screw. They work un opposite way, completly turned in: air mixture screw: max. fat Fuel mixture screw: max. lean Anyway for both screws 1 and a half turn is the standard setting for both screws.

Nice test but a bit unfair why did they choose the TLM 240 against the RTL? The TLM 260 model was so much better in everything compared to the TLM 240?

Yes l too discussed This topic with Reinhard and Thorsten (kattho) the longer lever is the easiest was to "tune" the clutch. Thorsten once tried out the smaller clutch basket of the 125cc, but did it just once. He now as mounted the lever mechanism from the Jumbo unser the petrol tank to his 320 model wir very good effect. You might ask BRT40 he used special springs and a special handlever. The lever mechanic unser the tank in combination with longer lever at the clutch seems to ne the most elegant .. anyway I don't use the clutch very often ... still pleased with what I got now ...

It IS still an improvement against the original set up, but will - as you already pointed out - not change the clutch completly! You should have tried the original set up first, I still wonder why they had set up clutch engagement so difficult ...

Then ride it and be happy! To the dented petrol tank, I personal would leave it as it is, doing more important things first like the airbox, then the bend rear brake does the rear brake work well? In the meantime I would too sort the rusted parts, getting them de- rusted and plated (home solution) see YouTube for electrolytic de rusting and zinc plating.

Mmmh ... bikes appereance looks weird very much work in detail was done to make a new seat, new fenders were mounted but the foot pegs and rear brake were left rusty crusty, as the hole exhaust, as too the air filter setup is not my personal fashion. No idea the bike seems to be in "unbalanced maintaining" status the seller spend some GBP for a neat seat and new fenders and Aldo claims to have the engine rebuild but haven't had the time and mony to do a wire wheel job to the exhaust together with a 5E can of rattle can paint ... ??? thus I would have asked for bills of the engine rebuild, probably I' am too sceptic in this matter.

Cool and asthonishing well done at once! The exhaust pipe is very long, compared to other four-strokes did you try to mount the center box instead of the rear muffler, or is the bike then too loud?

That's an interesting Hybrid? Seems to be a Yamaha and maybe Italian blend haven't seen such a bike before. Some more pics?

My wife is doing Triathlon she has much experience in this matter and I'am learning a mot tio.

Mmmh ... I still think it was a mistake. The easiest was to avoid is to mark the gas can and drinking can so individually that anybody will see it on First spot. For likewise things I use yellow duct tape and write with big letters in red my name and bike on. No problem so far.

Running 66.67:1 in all bikes which is equal to 75ml of oil to 5.00l of gasoline. Do this for mono's and twinshock bikes from 1979 up to 1988, aircooled and water cooled engines no problems so far. No special oil beside ones with low flammpoint. For gasoline only gas without any ethanol, like ARAL Ultimate or likewise.

Forgot what do I miss ... not much ... Things change with the time. People in general were more punctually, schedules had only to be made once and there were early a change, last but not least people were more bound to what they said, these three things have changed to the worse.

Really ... IKEA has done a lot for a better design in Budget furniture. You can complain about some of there "invention's" depending the junctions of pieces but in general their approach has brought commen sense in furniture.

May be for those that haven't seen the inside interesting, here an opened rear silencer, with the hole tube in the first section and the chambers and tubes inside the rear section. The first section works as an standard absorber, the rear section after the Helmholtz principles: Her one of many possibilities, in comparison (top original, below modified): From the rear: The Helmholtz section works nice each chamber or hollow is different so when the fumes go through parts of the noise spectrum will be filtered away or weaken, any way due to the small openings the system provides a constant back pressure. Which limits the "free breathing" of the motor, it would a likewise effect to close partial the openings to the air box. BUT as the standard 2stroke engine has flushing losses (beside the exhaust fumes also fresh gases exit), most 2strokes need and have a return flow function, provides through a pipe that has a cone tube that opens slowly and then is closing in diameter again. The original shaped mid section of the Bultaco doesn't have any cone form beside the end of it were a small hollow is, see picture: So with none additional "back pressure" you might get a worse performance, the solution in the picture above show a bigger hole oval shaped hole tube that has a slightly s-shaped curve inside which is in own experience a good compromise between a straight tube with no back pressure and the original one, too isn't visible at once narrower then the original and quite lighter. (a suggestion of many possible ...).

The noise reduction system of the rear silencer is based on the Helmholtz principles using different volumes' and different sizes of tubes. As it is constructed now it works for all noise levels that comes from the engine. You can leave the system too as it is as build up crud can't effect it much. Anyway the rear silencer build up a permanent resistance of "air pressure" against the complete exhaust system that is mounted before the "chambers" and tubes. Thus providing less noise but too restricts the performance here the build up of motor revs., one of other reasons the bikes with this era and silencer react/respond so slow to throttle. If you want that the bike react faster but deliver as less noise take out all baffles and tubes and place a hole tube instead through the complete silencer. The diameter around 25mm. Then fill the hollow between the hole tube and the rear silencer well with insulation, the modern stuff works best mineral insulation less good. But the insulation will soak up oil residue and after a time your bike will sound louder and you have to replace the insulation (the backdraw) but the engine will respond better (the benefit). Now it's up to you?

OK here you are, again from the manual, as it's so nice pictured there:

That's easy here the pages of the manual for the TR34: For timing I suggest to use 1,6mm before TDC as stated in the manual, 1,8mm makes starting more difficult especially when the engines is cold, (at least in my experience the motor doesn't like to start when it's colder outside, probably the Italian genes? but once warmed up starts then easily, For easy cold start I lean myself standing in the footrest on the bike against a tree ... then a good firm kick were you can put your body weight in. Then mostly nothing happens after first while the second kick then awakes the engine). I too use for trials riding a colder plug (manual states Champion N3C which is between NGK B7ES to NGK B8ES) which makes starting also easier, the B7ES plug looks too much better and doesn't foul as easy then the B8ES, but it's probably just my riding style, if your plug looks really good you should stay with the plug you haven choosen.

Pretty perfect replies to your questions I can't give any better hints. Just one in own experience: Try first to get the bike running proper, when the bike is running well and all mechanical issues are done and you still want to do "cosmetics" it's much more easier to do it then. Hopefully the bike will already look good when it's functionality back. I have done two restaurations that ended in a shiny bling outcome. But personal will not do this further more as it's a pitty to ride them in the dirt. The follower restauration I have done were "just" to the technical and functionalities of the bike also solving originality issues from former owners. And I like the outcome much more as there is still the original paint and fenders the paint may be discolored the plastics may be faded but they do look gorgeous this way and maintained. Best thing is you like to ride them too and I believe too as everybody is doing resto mods too these real original runners will be more worth in the future.

I have forgotten ... our license includes an insurance for the rider and the bike: - partly disability benefits: 32K Euro - full disability benefits: 64KEuro - death: 16KEuro - medical expenses: 10KEuro - medical repatriation: 4KEuro - rescue costs: 3KEuro - repatriation death: 2,5KEuro - technical help: 1,5KEuro - Immediate solutions with serious injury: 1KEuro Very low... for substance help for 50KEuro add another 131 Euro, for 110KEuro add another 242 Euro.