pschrauber

When reading your posted numbers the engine should be from a model 199A this model should not have rails under the engine just the bash plate. The frame as you mentioned has rails so the question is what you have for a frame. As the bike was used with a sidecar it can be possible that the rails or tubes were welded additional to the frame to reinforce it. The frame number should be located at the steering stem of the frame towards more to the right in driving direction. You might look there, with thick additional paint applied the numbers might be covered. You can use paint stripper to the steering stem tube to take off the layers of paint for getting probably a view to the number. As the previous poster mentioned some photos from the former sidecar frame would be great, too from the other frame and you engine this which might clarify doubts. I personal would still try to get matching engine and frame assembled together if they are truly the same and if the salvage isn't too expensive. Straightening the frame does need some time and skills. Thumps up for your rebuild!

They are still available in Germany and Italy, you will get an PM. Mike Kromer is very helpful if he hasn't then it's really difficult to find one in the US.

Dell'Orto as all my other bikes are using them (SWM, KTM, Beta and Aprilia), best available collection of jets and needles, floats and valves also easy to mount. The Bing is nice but the bikes are using far more gasoline with this carb the Bing is also not so easy tune to the engine needs.

The frame is very different to twinshock bikes the wheelbase for example is very short. The bike has too a lot of steering angle I would compare it ridewise to the Beta TR 34 in geometrics. The seat position is high and a bit old school in this matter Betas, Fantics and even Montesas of that era where lower. The engine is the same as in the SWM 320 model even equipped with a heavy rotor, but no extra weight on the left side so more lively. The carb is the Mikuni clone from Dell'Orto with a idle nozzle jet and an air screw instead a mixture screw. Beside this the clutch mechanism is enhanced a lot. Last but not least the exhaust is different offering a much lower noise and the rear muffler allows easier airflow. The behavior is still Rotax in every aspect but much quicker throttle response. We have an air cooled mono bike class so it can be ridden there. With the old fashion seat high, the low noise and the large capacity of the petrol tank you can too use it (in my opinion) very well for Motoalpinismo. Which will be the main purpose of use in future.

It's a nice bike, the color design is unique like Italian blueberry and strawberry ice cream. I know getting parts have become difficult, and it's an one off batch, just build in 1988, the former TX 311 is different and the later Climber too. But they are smooth to ride, it's very quiet, the suspension is very good too. I just did a spin again today with my new aquistion after getting some things sorted not all.

Standard Domino grips sold and mounted on trialsbikes for decades are the best in my experience and I tried out a lot. In my experience: Fancy colors get dirty, Groove structures feels uncomfortable, Too fine structures are attracting dirt thus difficult to clean, they are too not very grippy. Super soft grips are not my fashion as super hard ones. As softer the grip as easier they will come off while super hard ones are not so comfortable. All in all to the stated pros and cons my personal conclusion and choose are the standard Dominos they do last very long have the right grip are still soft but hard in once. They are even easy to install a bit of WD40 or brake cleaner inside the grip hole and on the bar end then a quick push while turning and that's it. You have to wait a day until all the cleaner fluid has evaporated. Another thing to consider they are price worthy too.

Old style twinshocks or new ones?

You might get a donor engine case in any case a new disc. I wouldn't try using knead metal JB-weld or similar stuff as through vibration a part of the repaired spots can get loose and the output would be similar to what you have now. Engines do show up here and there ask the community here look at LeBonCoin in France, Kiiji and Subito in Italy. (Had a likewise problem with my TR so needed too the basement which I found for good price in Italy).

Well... while the sticker tells me the car / engine combination was build in Germany, the music tells me that this car was made in former east Germany. Anyway these radial engine need much space (beside for an air plane). The Finnish Navy uses speed boats with radial engines. I personal like these Lanz Bulldog 20liter one cylinder tractors a lot never thought an engine can run so slowly and still being so strong without having any hp to mention about.

I believe, (not sure) the previous poster are reffering to this little item, that is located inside: (at the photo it is the jet on the top: The parts diagram is here, but be very careful by reading, as then PHBH can be fittet in many different ways; - with air screw or with fuel mixture screw, - with the idle jet inside (as shown above) and sits at the top towards the carb bore or with the 5mm idle Jet that's located at the bottom, - also different chokes, bowls, ... http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_images/dellorto_carb_diagram_phbh_page_1.jpg

Can be the seals, very much work. There is no air leak and the carb is clean Mmmh ... fuel supply is OK, jets are the right ones??

Clogging: You might again take a very close look to the bottom screw that holds the bowl and the main jet. The hollow inside the bolt or screw is wider then the thread hole for the main jet the bottom to of the hollow is the deepest spot of the carb inside there can have been collected a bit of crud with the time that can be collected by the gas flow and provide a clogged jet. I would too unscrew the mixture screw and give the inside a good clean flush with carb cleaner and compressed air. The small O-ring might be insufficient too. Any other channel of the carb and the bowl (there is one too) I would give too a good flush with cleaner and compressed air. It's often just small thingies that can change the behavior a lot ...

Where is the mixture screw located? Between slide and intake then it's a fuel mixture screw. Between slide and airbox manifold then it's a air mix screw. They work un opposite way, completly turned in: air mixture screw: max. fat Fuel mixture screw: max. lean Anyway for both screws 1 and a half turn is the standard setting for both screws.

Nice test but a bit unfair why did they choose the TLM 240 against the RTL? The TLM 260 model was so much better in everything compared to the TLM 240?

Yes l too discussed This topic with Reinhard and Thorsten (kattho) the longer lever is the easiest was to "tune" the clutch. Thorsten once tried out the smaller clutch basket of the 125cc, but did it just once. He now as mounted the lever mechanism from the Jumbo unser the petrol tank to his 320 model wir very good effect. You might ask BRT40 he used special springs and a special handlever. The lever mechanic unser the tank in combination with longer lever at the clutch seems to ne the most elegant .. anyway I don't use the clutch very often ... still pleased with what I got now ...

It IS still an improvement against the original set up, but will - as you already pointed out - not change the clutch completly! You should have tried the original set up first, I still wonder why they had set up clutch engagement so difficult ...

Then ride it and be happy! To the dented petrol tank, I personal would leave it as it is, doing more important things first like the airbox, then the bend rear brake does the rear brake work well? In the meantime I would too sort the rusted parts, getting them de- rusted and plated (home solution) see YouTube for electrolytic de rusting and zinc plating.

Mmmh ... bikes appereance looks weird very much work in detail was done to make a new seat, new fenders were mounted but the foot pegs and rear brake were left rusty crusty, as the hole exhaust, as too the air filter setup is not my personal fashion. No idea the bike seems to be in "unbalanced maintaining" status the seller spend some GBP for a neat seat and new fenders and Aldo claims to have the engine rebuild but haven't had the time and mony to do a wire wheel job to the exhaust together with a 5E can of rattle can paint ... ??? thus I would have asked for bills of the engine rebuild, probably I' am too sceptic in this matter.

Cool and asthonishing well done at once! The exhaust pipe is very long, compared to other four-strokes did you try to mount the center box instead of the rear muffler, or is the bike then too loud?

That's an interesting Hybrid? Seems to be a Yamaha and maybe Italian blend haven't seen such a bike before. Some more pics?

My wife is doing Triathlon she has much experience in this matter and I'am learning a mot tio.

Mmmh ... I still think it was a mistake. The easiest was to avoid is to mark the gas can and drinking can so individually that anybody will see it on First spot. For likewise things I use yellow duct tape and write with big letters in red my name and bike on. No problem so far.

Running 66.67:1 in all bikes which is equal to 75ml of oil to 5.00l of gasoline. Do this for mono's and twinshock bikes from 1979 up to 1988, aircooled and water cooled engines no problems so far. No special oil beside ones with low flammpoint. For gasoline only gas without any ethanol, like ARAL Ultimate or likewise.

Forgot what do I miss ... not much ... Things change with the time. People in general were more punctually, schedules had only to be made once and there were early a change, last but not least people were more bound to what they said, these three things have changed to the worse.

Really ... IKEA has done a lot for a better design in Budget furniture. You can complain about some of there "invention's" depending the junctions of pieces but in general their approach has brought commen sense in furniture.