pschrauber

Was there still a small ball between the push rod and the mushroom bearing? Just to verify as normally the ball sticks inside as a bearing between the pushrod and the mushroom bearing but it can fall out and rolling away. How does the inserted ball in the shaft of the clutch lever look like? Should too be round not grinded away. Another thing to think about, normally there is a spring at the clutch lever which holds the lever and the clutch at "base" position so the gap of a few mm is always provides. With the time this spring gets lost too because some people think clutch action is heavier because you have to pull not only again the springs inside the clutch but too the spring that holds the lever and shaft in its resting position. Without the spring and may be a little bit tight cable play the rod will all the time have pressure and thus be grinded away. In my personal experience the additional spring attached to the lever doesn't make clutch action so mich more heavier but provides that there is enough space so the pushrod and the mushroom bearing can spinn free when not in use.

Just looked up your bike in your gallery (pausing a bit as we are on our yearly X-mas rally) and it looks to be perfect! As already formerly stated I wouldn't do anything to the frame or color wise it's in great shape. The bike could have or show some more use indeed. Three little things I would do replacing the seat cover then put the right rubber to the kick starter and at last ad a front number plate between the stanchions as it looks a little bit naked there. Then ride it so it looks a little bit more used. I haven't done any paint repairs to my SWM and like the rubbed of places near the foot pegs and tho will too happens to my Bultaco or any other bike I own.

I personal would leave the loop, it's not necessary to cut. I would too leave the colour set up, it's a 199A so why hide the heritage. If you have the British tank you can play around if you have the PE unit there is no easy real way to repaint that unit which really will hold in the future. For personalisation may be you might paint the swing arm silver, take off the paint of the fork legs too so it matches again, Then take off the paint of the side cases of the engine, that makes it more personal but leave the original appearance. There are lot's of pictures of rebuild 199A with many different coulor set up's around, see: google pictures "Bultaco 199A"

The vid is nice I thing the third bearing had some debris inside. Anyway I would try to replace damaged engine parts, especially to the kickstarter and to the gearbox, a broken gear can cause some damage. (I would replace whenever possible the pair of gears). I had some really in depth going issues with gears and kickstarter mechanism which ended a big rebuild.

I still have the 85mm piston of my Sherpa 199b model left, the piston is ... well ... pretty used and the rings worn (as you can see by the blow by) so the cylinder got an overbore and 1st overbore piston. But watch out the piston too has the both holes drilled and the piston pin shaft is too a little bit out of the center. See here:

Wössner do make custom pistons to your requirements. They made the piston for my TR34 for a fair price.

Wössner pistons are very good. For original pistons you might ask Orlando Calonder in Switzerland. Sadly the Swiss Franken exchange rate to € is a problem. How does the lower con-rod bearing work. If you turn the crank with the con-rod the movement should be nice without any roughness or resistance, runnig freely but thight. Piston pin looks very used.

I had a 175 cc too the engine wasn't bad at all surly lacks top end power but was very controllable in low rews and Speed. Personal I would build it up as it was if most parts are still there as there are so little of them left. As a running and proper set up175cc model it's very collectable. The convert to a 250cc model is surly more competitive. It's up to you it's Your bike.

No haven't tried them out as I did not knew that they also do custom work. ... Well ... if the first contacted will refuse I give them - to save some €€€ - of course a try.

OK I will try them out I had in-between already ask these guys in the US: http://sprocketspecialists.com/ they haven't answered yet ... if they can't do it I will give Rebelgears a try. To avoid the extra tax costs which have also to be paid for the postage I really would like to order them Europe ...

Sachs fit's without any clearance, would need just a little widening with a file but the sprockets are for a smaller chain. The previous owner did check that out already and I have this sprocket too as another template for well fitting but sadly not working (from which I have already several) .

Hi, I' am looking for someone that can manufacture custom made sprockets to my Panda. The bike has a Franco Morini engine, the shaft looks very similar to the one from Fantic's 125 and 200 Minarelli engine but is different in geometry. Any resources as I need just 3 sprockets with 11 teeth for a 428 chain? I have just now a used 11 teeth and a used 13 teeth which comes from a Swedish 125 Monark which had used that engine too. Left to right: - section through the front sprocket, - front sprocket 12 teeth with right shaft diameter but for 50cc Malaguti/Aspes for a Moped chain, - front sprocket 13 teeth for F. Morini with inner dimension, - front sprocket 11 teeth for Minarelli / Fantic, (doesn't fit)

Mee too, (without betting a dime about their weather conditions)

Differences 199a to 199b: - engine: many from bearings, gears, gear selector, shaft bearings, ... cylinder, cylinder head even the studs to the exhaust are different. -frame: Little bit different steering angle, overall length of frame, foot rest position, rear without loop, swing arm, forks inner components, air filter, In comparison to my early 199b (Italian export bike) from 1981 with an late 199a (German export).

On sand and we have a lot of this and too on steep uphills in deep loose sand both bikes do the job very well as the 199b and the TL.NW have this smooth engine and generates so nice traction. I personal use mostly second for even steep uphills and let the engine spin in high revs as they are made for this. The high revs also deliver more torque. Never had a problem going up.

The gearing of the 199b is netter sorted and wider spread then to the 199a which has "only" 5 speeds. The 4th of the 199b is really much closer to 3rd compared to the 5speed gearboxes of earlier Sherpas. My experiences to the 199a are only limited I just could loan some 199a bikes of mates in the club. The 175cc I had before is so different and I sadly can't compare anymore. All in all I think the gearbox of the Sherpa 199b is very well set up and I like the spread of gears. Gear selection is too very easy even under load. Here the SWM feels harder when you change gear. This can too be therfore the case as I'am using ELF HTX inside the SWM and transaxle gear oil SAE 75 for the Sherpa.

They are both very competetive back then and still are today, it depends to your riding style. The 199b engine is stronger then to the 199a but feels less pig. The SWM Rotax engine is in original set up also not fast depending reving up. As I have both I have to adjust my riding style to the SWM and to the 199b. To sum it up in one sentence The Sherpa model 199b has to be ridden a tad more aggressive and with more body English then the SWM. Technical wise in many of the solutions of the SWM are newer and to be honest also better set up, to get the Bultaco in the same state you have to spend some effort in many departments, from brakes to rear suspension and engine. The clutch mounted to both bikes original state is not the very best and easiest depending pull.

Got the pair to my Bultaco from the web shop of TodoTrial in Spain.

To skip a section in between is not commen it might happen here and there when the route between the section I longer and riders came off the right path. It was in my experience not punished so far and happens too to me. It should not be done in purpose as you then mich have to ride against the direction which is mostly forbidden as I know.

We do often use the rule that each group of trials riders start at a different section this works very well and provides a good coming through without longer waiting lanes.

Original sprockets are worth their weight in money (as gold would be a little bit too much?)

The already mentioned measure of the distance between the axle of the swing arm to the axle of the axle of the wheel is in my experience the best way to find out if the wheel axle sits' right. For the chain alignment there are little laser units available with the laser sot you can measure the distance between the dot and the sprockets which should be the same. To the snails: At some models the side with the threat in the axle is smaller in diameter so you need to spin the snail a little bit longer to position the axle right?

Very good tip's, some more from my personal view of taking photos. You might take the photo while sitting on the floor. the bikes looks much better if the height of the camera is at the same level as the bike itself. A background that is much farer away or if not neutral this is less intrusive. Best photos can be done in the country site or inside a photo atelier. Best hint ever: Take photos if possible in sun light, if not possible and you are using a digital camera the exposure should be a little bit darker then needed you can then digital fade in using Photoshop which gives mostly a better color range. To the bike: Very good restauration looks awesome!

In my Experience on realm slippery underground like wet clay or dry deep sand: - no clutch, - keep the speed as long as possible, - avoid fast accelerating, - avoid fast breaking, - just use slow amd little throttle corrections to gain or loose speed, - keep most of the weight to the rear, Not perfect tips but helped me coming through avoiding a five.

Yes too much fuzz about the condenser I personal ( but I'am 50% German too ) would leave the condenser where it belongs to the plate of the ignition. I had problems with them when the ignition plate and their components were heavy corroded or they were over 20 years old changed them once and that was it no other problems occurred. Keep in mind that if you move the mounting point of the condenser the electrical wiring has to suit mostly 6V which means much thicker wires then with 12V. I would use at least 1,5 mm2 as diameter.