pschrauber

We do often use the rule that each group of trials riders start at a different section this works very well and provides a good coming through without longer waiting lanes.

Original sprockets are worth their weight in money (as gold would be a little bit too much?)

The already mentioned measure of the distance between the axle of the swing arm to the axle of the axle of the wheel is in my experience the best way to find out if the wheel axle sits' right. For the chain alignment there are little laser units available with the laser sot you can measure the distance between the dot and the sprockets which should be the same. To the snails: At some models the side with the threat in the axle is smaller in diameter so you need to spin the snail a little bit longer to position the axle right?

Very good tip's, some more from my personal view of taking photos. You might take the photo while sitting on the floor. the bikes looks much better if the height of the camera is at the same level as the bike itself. A background that is much farer away or if not neutral this is less intrusive. Best photos can be done in the country site or inside a photo atelier. Best hint ever: Take photos if possible in sun light, if not possible and you are using a digital camera the exposure should be a little bit darker then needed you can then digital fade in using Photoshop which gives mostly a better color range. To the bike: Very good restauration looks awesome!

In my Experience on realm slippery underground like wet clay or dry deep sand: - no clutch, - keep the speed as long as possible, - avoid fast accelerating, - avoid fast breaking, - just use slow amd little throttle corrections to gain or loose speed, - keep most of the weight to the rear, Not perfect tips but helped me coming through avoiding a five.

Yes too much fuzz about the condenser I personal ( but I'am 50% German too ) would leave the condenser where it belongs to the plate of the ignition. I had problems with them when the ignition plate and their components were heavy corroded or they were over 20 years old changed them once and that was it no other problems occurred. Keep in mind that if you move the mounting point of the condenser the electrical wiring has to suit mostly 6V which means much thicker wires then with 12V. I would use at least 1,5 mm2 as diameter.

It might be a later Alp model the Alp models came up to the mud nineties with air cooled engines. There is not much available for these bikes to be honest air filter and brake linings come to my mind ... The bike is worth any effort, sadly nothing is cheap when it have to be rebuild. Cylinder is Nikasil coated a new coat very expensive but worth the outcome. Pistons can be custom made also con rods nothing special.

A Nice bike really it reminds me a lot to Zündapp, Monark and Kreidler trialsbikes. These Little machines Are much netter aa You expect in First hand. Our champion in classic Trials The last two years use a Zündapp in expert class. And this year I could see a 50cc Kreidler air fan cooled at the international acandinavian classic Trials cup in Brockhöfe. What You muss belonging power in first hand is lost in weight to these bikes they are so small and light they do ride really well. The power output is more on off but do not matter as the reminding rest can easily done with some body English.

Very nice bike, worth a look and a ride. It's just between the older twinshock and modern bikes. The first modern looking monoshocks of course, Sadly there are some parts not available anymore: most engine parts like piston, con-rod, clutch basket, ... also plastics ... and so on, so it's easier to have a donor. Cylinder is plated a new plating is the most expensive part and the bearings to the rear Suspension are quite expensive too, The bike itself rides nice best air cooled mono Trials in my personal view, light, nice geometry and a very powerful engine, the bike sounds louder then most other bikes I know.

They are also made out of magnesium and from 1989 when they had not so much experience with water cooling and magnesium cases in the long run, so the cases started to dissolve especially in the water pump area from inside the pump out and were the tubes are attached. The later models in the 90's got the side cases again made out of aluminum. You might look up used cases too they are not so expensive, you can get good used spares for around 70 €. I press my thumps!!! Another thing I did btw. to my SWM was to seal the caveties in the main engine cases were the engine mounts are, just to prevent corrosion there. I used 2K epoxy filler, the areas can only be checked when you take the complete engine apart. Therefore I don't know how good it works ... but at least I have done something which gives me a good feeling.

Mmmh, may be RH Lacke had changed their mind ...? I had Problems with the side cases of my KTM which had very bad corosion were the water pump is mounted, I could get a NOS sidecase. The cover had just some corrosion at the flnge to the water cooling rubber tubes. I paintd both of them with good results wit RH Lacke engine paint? Engine rebuild and fitted with new sidecase and the old water pump cover: The painted areas of the small waterpump cover is still visible, did so too to the other flange to the sidecase:

I have made good experience wir them for engine cases comes for air guns or in rattle can. The paint had 2 components once mixed just a limited time for apply. Also the rattle can Version van only used for a short time once mixed. I used it to the magnesium covers to my KTM and it stays there now for already 4 years. The paint is too a little bit flexible and very resistant against scratches gas and oil. http://www.motorradlack.de/produktliste/zubehor/motorlacke/ Another paint which is considered to be good is POR15.

Well I had likewise Bing issues too which were very similar. I too changed the valve float as the rubber of the old one looked porous and then had an issue with the carb overflooding not always but frequently when the bike did not stand or roll horizontal. It turned out that the new valve float I purchased from Bing (took some weeks to order that tiny little piece) was different in overall length. The new one I got was 1mm shorter, (14mm instead of 15mm). I did not check the float valve when I replaced it and 'cause I thought they should be machined in the exact like way which wasn't the case ... You can try to compensate the different length by bending the little metal strip of the float for adjusting. I did this, however it did not work as well as I thought, may be because of the more angled metal strip no clue here . In the end I have now left the old float valve and the bike runs fine again. So you might check the length of the float valve too.

You might try BP4ES my SWM had also burnt some BP5ES which happened in the silliest moments. Now I use the hotter plug and everything works perfect even the plug colour changed from black and very dark brown to dark brown at the edges and brighter brown in the middle. I still use BP5ES when the bike has to do longer road travels, but training and competition I do with the hotter plug. Had not to replace the plug so far after over one year of riding, looks still very good.

I had recently my bike at the technical inspection to get it road registered after the rebuild was done. The bikes origin is from Torino Italy so I had to go through a §21 as we call it which means everything was tested. The brakes are capable to lock the wheels and the bike could be stopped on the road in suitable length. I think it depends beside the correct align between drum and shoe also to the right pad material.

Mmmh I don't know how bad your brakes are. The ones on my bike work astonishing well having still the chrome. I use original brake shoes (over 30 years old NOS) and had them aligned to the drums, which was quite a job. The outcome is what I need. If you are braking with the wrong area of the brake shoe you can get very little braking power. So I recommend too to look up how well the shoes fit to the drums.

There is the statement that all Beta 4stroke models get the injection system Beta had already developed mounted to one Enduro model in 2015 due to better performance and the Euro4 regulations ... Anyway will ask my Importer / dealer here.

If you want too see a preview Beta Norway has posted some on their Facebook pages. Detta var faktiskt mycket bra at meddela resten i världen om detta, tack så mycket! https://m.facebook.com/137528449730272/photos/pcb.525901127559667/525901027559677/?type=3&source=48

Yes it is! Even so they will produce a factory model. I was already interested in 2015 but changed my mind towards another twinshock but this year I'am very much in the demand modus.

Would be interested in a 4T Beta too the new model is fitted with a injection system no carb anymore, thus starting should be easier but furthermost no issues while riding in the mountains. I'am more an old style rider and too "just" have old bikes, but a 4T Beta Mmmmh very nice. The older 250 and 300 4T that I have tried were both easy to start, much easier then Bultacos or SWM.

A straightforward bore depending the oversize you need is from +0.25 - 1.25 in 0.25 steps. Luckily the barrel inside the cylinder is not plated.

Btw. I sometimes usw old jeans they so work very nice.

15,000 / 2,695 = 5,56 bikes. Wow so 5 bikes and a pile of parts I guess. One for 2,695 € in as mentioned running order and mint condition would be OK. I might be interested in the pile?

No option for me too expensive but there is the issue of the very low € compared to a high £. The same price in € and if as said every else is still working well not too bad. The model is getting rare and original spares to the 199b are very expensive (beside most crappy replica parts). I 'am afraid of issues because the bike had probably stored too long in the wrong place as there is heavy corrosion visible on strange places ... No buy without having a very close look to it and too a roll out ...

Countersunk serrated washer are very OK, they are called DIN 6798 Fächerscheiben Form V = versenkt as we name them, they should be easy to get, here one address were you can order just 100 at once ... https://www.wegertseder.com/index_prod.asp They work best. Nowadays you can use countersunk screws with Allen (female) head which are easier to thighten and loosen again, again the link where top find: https://www.wegertseder.com/index_prod.asp (if you have difficulties to find them).