pschrauber

In which direction? To the side or on height? A sidewise run out of 1mm is still Ok, while 3mm is too much. A run out to height here also 1mm is OK, tires have already a run out of 1 - 2mm, a good workshop will mount the tire so that the run out of rim and tire will be compensated to each other. Anyway as it is a trials bike I guess there are not so high standards as you can't ride very fast as with a road bike. So a rum out of 2-3mm might still acceptable in both directions. I personal don't like it and gave the wheels of my old bikes to a professional "Radspannerei" that trued them, a small amount of bucks and as they too check the tension of the spokes worth to spend,(10 € per wheel). I gave them just the wheels and axles to save money.

There are so many different shapes for Trials and for MX bikes. Some mich really suit a rider why not. I am not an expert in handle bars I always buy the same models I'am personal used too. Tomaselli and Renthal while the Tomaselli is a tad flatter and less bend. The Renthsl is very similar to the old steel handle bars that came with the bike. Anyway the last twinshock I purchased had a MX style handele bar mounted. (It's an old style handle bar even approved for street use). I personal felt uncomfortable with it. The bar is much more bend backwards. So I changes to a Renthal 5'' and everything was OK again. In my experience th

The custom made piston is of course expensive then a bought serial nut not so much. There can be more difficulties and even costlier. When the bike is a good runner, brakes are OK, so suspension and of course all other engine components and the ignition. Get a new one, they cone too with piston pin, rings ... (just my 2 cent opinion)

No resource available. I went the route to let Wössner do a custom made piston to fit the cylinder. You might take a close look to your cylinder plating too, before getting a new one.

Mmmh ... mud sections you do not find everywhere that's a fact. It seems to me that they show up less as they don't fit in new trials and are ... well ... more dedicated to classic trials and the past. Anyway when a three is a zero it's OK to me, here I might be in the minority or the only one. I need some time to get used to it, then it's Ok. What I hate is cleaning up the mess done to your gear and bike, too the excessive wear that comes with riding in the mud. You can't. Bend anything in soft clay but it dulls everything.

That's a very sanitary solution and fits perfect as I can see.

Yes probably not soaked, excessive oil should be removed. There is special air filter oil available. I recommend oil that can be washed out later in warm water with soap for cleaning.

You need Sodium Hydroxide or Potassium Hydroxid which you find in oven cleaner. If done this with fasteners fort the front mudgatd from GasGas which were plated gold to fit to my Bultaco. Worked great, but you have to rinse quickly to stop corrosion then the item should be polished to get the surface hardened. I haven't done such a big part probably it's better done by a player. There are some videos in YouTube too that shows how it works. Even a vid from Mr. Fredinghouse form West Coast Customs has a vid about plating removal from aluminium.

Carb flot and valve to the float here I personal would look first. In own experience had an old valve were the rubber was porous and a wrong adjusted float both issue caused carb and engine flooding. Another question do the bike breathe enough? Is the filter really clean and not clooged?

Another point when doing Motoalpinismo in the Alpes I have 19" inner tube with me to fit front and rear tire. In case of and this size fit's both wheels. That inner tire is from Metzler too if this helps?

Using Metzler when I remember right and one the other there must be a Pirelli to the Michelin. Not sure what is mounted to the Smilla ... have forgotten ... does it really matter never came to this question so far.

Oh that film is a society drama, named "Stress is three", here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_Is_Three

This was the time were man were man ... just the 60's everything was possible in 2000 people thought that they should use a rocket for commuting to Mars and so on.

Time will tell there are as usual many option to develop a bike IF they will do a production run. I haven't read the comment from KTM's CEO. I think when they will build one it will be a real KTM and the bike will use components from the engine to the suspension as with all bikes from them. (still a guessing just from history their bike development)

If they really do so I hope they will again "collect" some good riders and trials bike "engineers" as they did for their first bike they made in the 70's. With Felix Krahnstöver and Walter Luft they had back then a good rider and a good bike "engineer" that developed a very good bike that was sadly never sold to public. Walter Luft is btw still riding trials. I'am very curious if they do and then might really by a modern bike again. My thumps up if they try and will come up with something new in trials. The 250 freeride is already a good trails bike, (tested it !!!) and KTM is on the right path I think.

Wow, I had one too, very nice bike, please keep the patina and leave it as original as it is, no new paint!!! Just preserve!!! It's by the way more worth so and will too increase more in worth too.

As you have dialled in your carb to your home at sea level to - as you stated - good effect. The only thing that happens is that the engine is starting getting richer fueld. This is not a serious problem, the engine should tolerate it but will not run perfect. I too live at 50m above sea level and when I go riding in the Alpes were we start at 1500m there is only a little adjustment to the mixture screw needed to my Beta. I hope you have located the right screw as the air mixture screw works just the opposite way of the fuel mixture screw: Anyway assuming you have and air- mixture screw: (then the screw is located between the idle screw and the intake of the airbox side): turning the screw in results in richer mixture, turning the screw out results in leaner mixture, If you have a fuel mixture screw: (then the screw is located between the idle screw and the intake of the motor): turning the screw in result in leaner mixture, turning the screw out result in richer mixture, How to set up the air- or mixture screws: Adjust the screw to 1,5 to 2 turns from completely turned in, (standard setting). Start the engine and then adjust the idle screw (in the middle) so the engine runs a little bit higher then usual, let the engine warm up a little bit. Now by slowly turning the mixture screw out hear if the engine is running higher or lower. If it's running higher turn slowly as long out as the rpm of the starts to decrease again, were you have found the highest rpm with the mixture screw is the best setting. If the motor is running with less rpm then you have to turn the screw inside until again you find the peak of rpm of the engine. Now you can turn down the idle screw again to the setting you need. If there is now change at all when you turn the screw then need another idle jet, (should normally not be the case). Et voilà that's it. I recommend to adjust the mixture screw to the fatter side always if you start to go from higher ground to lower ground. (as already mentioned I just adjust them in the Alpes once at 1500m then I ride up to nearly 3000m without doing any changes, as richer is no big problem but leaner can easily be an issue)

Once before the start, in between if in need. After the trials I pump the tires up again they do roll easier up and down the trailer also the tires won't get flatten by the tie downs.

I can't follow the statement that one carb is in general richer then another. This depends how the carb is adjusted and which jets, needles and so one are fitted. Of course there differences in layout and design but these will more affect the power pick for example. If you need a really good manufactured carb which can be perfect adjusted then you need one made for racing, sadly these are very expensive

It depends which model you compare against, assuming they are the same in their technical equipment (both with flat slide f.e.), each of them has it advantages and disadvantages. The Keihin is a bolt one device and works mostly straight. The Dell'Orto is picky about the right jets and there are a bazillion types of needles, needle jets even slides for just one model available which can lead to difficulties if you are not used to adjust a carb.* The Keihin carbs comes in one quality for Dell' Orto's there are standard and racing carbs for most model types available, but the racing versions are very pricey and just for them that look for every promille of power, like in racing. * had that experience a couple of weeks ago with an old Bing ...

Yes they are!

The side stand, you need them if there are no trees at hand. The side stand is prune to get scratches and has to withstand a lot. In my personal two 2 cent opinion: I feel very comfortable with a steel unit, can be rebend and too painted with the rattle can in need.

Yep problem solved, as the broken choke het together with the damaged o-ring will let in too much fuel even when the choke is off. Small things can have very big effects. especially in carburetion.

I have had the same experience. Beside sometimes poorer quality there are too slight differences in the construction of the item when it was made over the years. For example: are the top nuts of a 1980 and 1981 Marzocchi fork same model the same sometimes! Likewise tiny changes you find nearly everywhere. So these little changes are often to me the biggest trap I use to find frequently. But it's too part if the game. Where I had most problems with were replicia parts with low quality. I know try to avoid replica parts that are made in a serial production too much extra time and money spend. NOS or custom made is cheaper in the longer run. It should be a nice idea to have a listing of good resources for parts for twinshocks monos and pre65. Just to mention the very best parts supplier to get the standards higher and too the competition.

I hope the bike will get a mechanic overhaul so it runs again very well but the patina beside corrosion and rust is left as it is, no bling repaint or replacement of damaged plastic, a repair if necessary ... and so one. no trick parts ... we have already so many bikes where less then 50% is original and the remaining rest pimpend stuff. The overall state of the bike is so good. Other personal remarks: - a perfect find, - thanks for showing the bike, - and I did look up the book and this photos here, it is the same bike in my personal view!