If they really do so I hope they will again "collect" some good riders and trials bike "engineers" as they did for their first bike they made in the 70's. With Felix Krahnstöver and Walter Luft they had back then a good rider and a good bike "engineer" that developed a very good bike that was sadly never sold to public. Walter Luft is btw still riding trials.
I'am very curious if they do and then might really by a modern bike again.
My thumps up if they try and will come up with something new in trials.
The 250 freeride is already a good trails bike, (tested it !!!) and KTM is on the right path I think.
Wow, I had one too, very nice bike, please keep the patina and leave it as original as it is, no new paint!!! Just preserve!!! It's by the way more worth so and will too increase more in worth too.
As you have dialled in your carb to your home at sea level to - as you stated - good effect. The only thing that happens is that the engine is starting getting richer fueld.
This is not a serious problem, the engine should tolerate it but will not run perfect.
I too live at 50m above sea level and when I go riding in the Alpes were we start at 1500m there is only a little adjustment to the mixture screw needed to my Beta.
I hope you have located the right screw as the air mixture screw works just the opposite way of the fuel mixture screw:
Anyway assuming you have and air- mixture screw:
(then the screw is located between the idle screw and the intake of the airbox side):
turning the screw in results in richer mixture,
turning the screw out results in leaner mixture,
If you have a fuel mixture screw:
(then the screw is located between the idle screw and the intake of the motor):
turning the screw in result in leaner mixture,
turning the screw out result in richer mixture,
How to set up the air- or mixture screws:
Adjust the screw to 1,5 to 2 turns from completely turned in, (standard setting).
Start the engine and then adjust the idle screw (in the middle) so the engine runs a little bit higher then usual,
let the engine warm up a little bit.
Now by slowly turning the mixture screw out hear if the engine is running higher or lower.
If it's running higher turn slowly as long out as the rpm of the starts to decrease again,
were you have found the highest rpm with the mixture screw is the best setting.
If the motor is running with less rpm then you have to turn the screw inside until again you find the
peak of rpm of the engine.
Now you can turn down the idle screw again to the setting you need.
If there is now change at all when you turn the screw then need another idle jet, (should normally not be the case).
Et voilà that's it.
I recommend to adjust the mixture screw to the fatter side always if you start to go from higher ground to lower ground.
(as already mentioned I just adjust them in the Alpes once at 1500m then I ride up to nearly 3000m without doing any
changes, as richer is no big problem but leaner can easily be an issue)
I can't follow the statement that one carb is in general richer then another. This depends how the carb is adjusted and which jets, needles and so one are fitted.
Of course there differences in layout and design but these will more affect the power pick for example. If you need a really good manufactured carb which can be perfect adjusted then you need one made for racing, sadly these are very expensive
Yep problem solved, as the broken choke het together with the damaged o-ring will let in too much fuel even when the choke is off. Small things can have very big effects. especially in carburetion.
I have had the same experience. Beside sometimes poorer quality there are too slight differences in the construction of the item when it was made over the years. For example: are the top nuts of a 1980 and 1981 Marzocchi fork same model the same sometimes! Likewise tiny changes you find nearly everywhere. So these little changes are often to me the biggest trap I use to find frequently. But it's too part if the game. Where I had most problems with were replicia parts with low quality. I know try to avoid replica parts that are made in a serial production too much extra time and money spend. NOS or custom made is cheaper in the longer run. It should be a nice idea to have a listing of good resources for parts for twinshocks monos and pre65.
Just to mention the very best parts supplier to get the standards higher and too the competition.
The 250 cc is easier to ride in trials or sections whatever you will do. You can try to leave the bike as it is might adjust the engine with carb and timing. To the flywheel weight I would suggest to get a second for removing weight. I think the bike will be transformed likewise Mr. Jekill to Mr. Hyde. This effect might not be to your benefits.
Another solution is to mount the reeds and manifold of the TY 250, which fit when you widen the recess of the cylinder. You can then mount a slightly bigger carb too. If done so the air box has to be cleaned of the inerta and the foamfilter mounted as a locket to the top.
You might try them they have done a couple of kg galvanizing an chroming parts for me also kick starters shafts and So on. I was vers pleased by the outcome and there prices are much better. But You have too sent them the parts in advance.
It's a dad + son project to get over a huge loss in first place.
Don't think about the money think about the mission and get it done with a nice result.
Afterwards you will remember this time and the bike be connected with it so selling later will be difficult for you if the process went as expected which means spending some £££ is completely OK IMHO.
The boost bottle or intake resonator was an invention to reduce back air flow from engine just using ports. With reeds or rotary valves there is no real benefit for this system.
That's why they once appeared and now have disappeared.
If you need the math for building your own resonator to your engine that is not using reeds or a rotary valve you can sent me a PN.
There are better brakes then the original Bultaco but I personal wouldn't do it. Try to find a Bultaco double shaft action brake plate and mount that to the hub, this will improve braking a lot and would be contemporary.
I mounted Falcons with alloy body and I' am very pleased with them. The shocks are light, very well set up, no problems. My personal recommendation. You can even get them with two springs per side as the original ones.
Wow that is really expensive. I paid not even the half in € for galvanizing a couple kg of screws and rechroming a Bultaco kick starter and a gear lever in 2012.
It's not uncommon at all that you have to send them the parts in advance for getting a quote. If you can't agree the price tell them that they have to send back the parts. They then might give you a second price/quote
This worked very well so far, can even be mounted while hooked to the car, btw. your car alarm should too recognize that you have a trailer, at least in my car it's so very embarrassing if you have forgotten:
Boeshield is way to expensive to use on motorcycle chain, although it does a great job if you leave it overnight. There are a lot better trials chain lubes to use. I use it sparingly on mountain bike chain and again you need to use it day before so it dries off and leaves a non tacky surface. You can also buy it in bottles, this is best as there no waste, you can place it where you want.
Boeshield is great for hinges and pivots, but as solvent based don't get near anything rubbery or certain plastics, same applies to WD40.
Best thing to use is GT85, but not as a lubricant! I use gallons of the stuff, for water displacement and protection.
Venhill only recommend you clean their cables with WD40, and lube them with 3in1 or light oil. I'm surprised they don't recommend using Silkopen as it's engineered for lubing cables. It's a graphited spray, and I used this many times over the years and works a treat.
Other lubricant recommendation from Venhill for the cabels then the flush / oiling with WD40 is not provided from Venhill they even warn for using any other oil to cables,
Ktm Trial Bike
in General Trials Talk
Posted · Edited by pschrauber
If they really do so I hope they will again "collect" some good riders and trials bike "engineers" as they did for their first bike they made in the 70's. With Felix Krahnstöver and Walter Luft they had back then a good rider and a good bike "engineer" that developed a very good bike that was sadly never sold to public. Walter Luft is btw still riding trials.
I'am very curious if they do and then might really by a modern bike again.
My thumps up if they try and will come up with something new in trials.
The 250 freeride is already a good trails bike, (tested it !!!) and KTM is on the right path I think.