Yep problem solved, as the broken choke het together with the damaged o-ring will let in too much fuel even when the choke is off. Small things can have very big effects. especially in carburetion.
I have had the same experience. Beside sometimes poorer quality there are too slight differences in the construction of the item when it was made over the years. For example: are the top nuts of a 1980 and 1981 Marzocchi fork same model the same sometimes! Likewise tiny changes you find nearly everywhere. So these little changes are often to me the biggest trap I use to find frequently. But it's too part if the game. Where I had most problems with were replicia parts with low quality. I know try to avoid replica parts that are made in a serial production too much extra time and money spend. NOS or custom made is cheaper in the longer run. It should be a nice idea to have a listing of good resources for parts for twinshocks monos and pre65.
Just to mention the very best parts supplier to get the standards higher and too the competition.
The 250 cc is easier to ride in trials or sections whatever you will do. You can try to leave the bike as it is might adjust the engine with carb and timing. To the flywheel weight I would suggest to get a second for removing weight. I think the bike will be transformed likewise Mr. Jekill to Mr. Hyde. This effect might not be to your benefits.
Another solution is to mount the reeds and manifold of the TY 250, which fit when you widen the recess of the cylinder. You can then mount a slightly bigger carb too. If done so the air box has to be cleaned of the inerta and the foamfilter mounted as a locket to the top.
You might try them they have done a couple of kg galvanizing an chroming parts for me also kick starters shafts and So on. I was vers pleased by the outcome and there prices are much better. But You have too sent them the parts in advance.
It's a dad + son project to get over a huge loss in first place.
Don't think about the money think about the mission and get it done with a nice result.
Afterwards you will remember this time and the bike be connected with it so selling later will be difficult for you if the process went as expected which means spending some £££ is completely OK IMHO.
The boost bottle or intake resonator was an invention to reduce back air flow from engine just using ports. With reeds or rotary valves there is no real benefit for this system.
That's why they once appeared and now have disappeared.
If you need the math for building your own resonator to your engine that is not using reeds or a rotary valve you can sent me a PN.
There are better brakes then the original Bultaco but I personal wouldn't do it. Try to find a Bultaco double shaft action brake plate and mount that to the hub, this will improve braking a lot and would be contemporary.
I mounted Falcons with alloy body and I' am very pleased with them. The shocks are light, very well set up, no problems. My personal recommendation. You can even get them with two springs per side as the original ones.
Wow that is really expensive. I paid not even the half in € for galvanizing a couple kg of screws and rechroming a Bultaco kick starter and a gear lever in 2012.
It's not uncommon at all that you have to send them the parts in advance for getting a quote. If you can't agree the price tell them that they have to send back the parts. They then might give you a second price/quote
This worked very well so far, can even be mounted while hooked to the car, btw. your car alarm should too recognize that you have a trailer, at least in my car it's so very embarrassing if you have forgotten:
Boeshield is way to expensive to use on motorcycle chain, although it does a great job if you leave it overnight. There are a lot better trials chain lubes to use. I use it sparingly on mountain bike chain and again you need to use it day before so it dries off and leaves a non tacky surface. You can also buy it in bottles, this is best as there no waste, you can place it where you want.
Boeshield is great for hinges and pivots, but as solvent based don't get near anything rubbery or certain plastics, same applies to WD40.
Best thing to use is GT85, but not as a lubricant! I use gallons of the stuff, for water displacement and protection.
Venhill only recommend you clean their cables with WD40, and lube them with 3in1 or light oil. I'm surprised they don't recommend using Silkopen as it's engineered for lubing cables. It's a graphited spray, and I used this many times over the years and works a treat.
Other lubricant recommendation from Venhill for the cabels then the flush / oiling with WD40 is not provided from Venhill they even warn for using any other oil to cables,
Just this doesn't change my personal mind to use WD40.
I might have searched at the wrong spots but couldn't find anything better as "overall" oil to use for cleaning ... even Venhill recommends WD40 for their cables.
The right chain oil ... there are as many opinions as brands. Coming from boiling the chain in this messy chain grease, then using all kinds of oils I now use PTFE. PDL chain lube is the brand but I think there are similar brand were you live, works great don't attract dirt easy to use and no significant wear to any chain I have used so far.
Looking at the pictures it looks good, and apperently not to difficult for a national event if you familiar with the ground*.
The ground seems to be likewise the one we have here, a lot of sand with steep up's and downs and roots inbetween.
I think that many riders are not so familiar with the ground, it's all about not to loose traction and the right track.
At the last event with likewise ground I was riding together with two guys from abroad one from Austria and the other from Finland, they were too not familiar with the ground and had some concerns. On a ground like this clutch is rarely necessary also hopping around won't have the same good effects, just smooth riding with some speed in a higher gear.
Sounds too me like a silent bankrupty, too much talk no real clue and there so little bikes in general to sell to the market. I wish and hope the best but as longer the time goes without a solution as less good will be the result if we look to similar incidents.
Titanium Stand
in Montesa
Posted
The side stand, you need them if there are no trees at hand.
The side stand is prune to get scratches and has to withstand a lot.
In my personal two 2 cent opinion:
I feel very comfortable with a steel unit, can be rebend and too
painted with the rattle can in need.