pschrauber

The 250 cc is easier to ride in trials or sections whatever you will do. You can try to leave the bike as it is might adjust the engine with carb and timing. To the flywheel weight I would suggest to get a second for removing weight. I think the bike will be transformed likewise Mr. Jekill to Mr. Hyde. This effect might not be to your benefits.

Another solution is to mount the reeds and manifold of the TY 250, which fit when you widen the recess of the cylinder. You can then mount a slightly bigger carb too. If done so the air box has to be cleaned of the inerta and the foamfilter mounted as a locket to the top.

You might try them they have done a couple of kg galvanizing an chroming parts for me also kick starters shafts and So on. I was vers pleased by the outcome and there prices are much better. But You have too sent them the parts in advance. http://www.otr-gmbh.de/

It's a dad + son project to get over a huge loss in first place. Don't think about the money think about the mission and get it done with a nice result. Afterwards you will remember this time and the bike be connected with it so selling later will be difficult for you if the process went as expected which means spending some £££ is completely OK IMHO.

Looks OK, at least the rear fender isn't missing, as it happens very seldom that used ones are for sale and this is not available as NOS. In general look up for used parts, like engine, ... as there are only very few parts still available.

The boost bottle or intake resonator was an invention to reduce back air flow from engine just using ports. With reeds or rotary valves there is no real benefit for this system. That's why they once appeared and now have disappeared. If you need the math for building your own resonator to your engine that is not using reeds or a rotary valve you can sent me a PN.

Hi Ross, you might look here, there are some owners around: http://trial-en-ancienne.creer-forums.com/forum

Italy not everywhere anymore the routes and riding possibility has to be marked and these markings are mostly local secrets.

Here you are, Motoplat is the ignition for the TR:

There are better brakes then the original Bultaco but I personal wouldn't do it. Try to find a Bultaco double shaft action brake plate and mount that to the hub, this will improve braking a lot and would be contemporary.

I mounted Falcons with alloy body and I' am very pleased with them. The shocks are light, very well set up, no problems. My personal recommendation. You can even get them with two springs per side as the original ones.

Wow that is really expensive. I paid not even the half in € for galvanizing a couple kg of screws and rechroming a Bultaco kick starter and a gear lever in 2012. It's not uncommon at all that you have to send them the parts in advance for getting a quote. If you can't agree the price tell them that they have to send back the parts. They then might give you a second price/quote

This worked very well so far, can even be mounted while hooked to the car, btw. your car alarm should too recognize that you have a trailer, at least in my car it's so very embarrassing if you have forgotten:

Other lubricant recommendation from Venhill for the cabels then the flush / oiling with WD40 is not provided from Venhill they even warn for using any other oil to cables, you have to have confused something ...

WD40 harms rubber, most oils or solvents do? Just this doesn't change my personal mind to use WD40. I might have searched at the wrong spots but couldn't find anything better as "overall" oil to use for cleaning ... even Venhill recommends WD40 for their cables.

The right chain oil ... there are as many opinions as brands. Coming from boiling the chain in this messy chain grease, then using all kinds of oils I now use PTFE. PDL chain lube is the brand but I think there are similar brand were you live, works great don't attract dirt easy to use and no significant wear to any chain I have used so far.

Moped class:

Looking at the pictures it looks good, and apperently not to difficult for a national event if you familiar with the ground*. The ground seems to be likewise the one we have here, a lot of sand with steep up's and downs and roots inbetween. I think that many riders are not so familiar with the ground, it's all about not to loose traction and the right track. At the last event with likewise ground I was riding together with two guys from abroad one from Austria and the other from Finland, they were too not familiar with the ground and had some concerns. On a ground like this clutch is rarely necessary also hopping around won't have the same good effects, just smooth riding with some speed in a higher gear.

Here a pic of different model years of the Ducati: If you really want to restore the Chispa you might look out for Ducati Mopeds of the mid 70's and you will find. If you want to restore a bike do your homework first which means take a Close look to the history read old books and magazines, then parts are no big problem ...

The engine is no miracle, it's a Ducati Mototrans also btw. used by Bultaco for the street model 49 GT. Anyway Ducati back then too made a trials bike too the 50cc Ducati 50 TT. Which uses the same engine.

Sounds too me like a silent bankrupty, too much talk no real clue and there so little bikes in general to sell to the market. I wish and hope the best but as longer the time goes without a solution as less good will be the result if we look to similar incidents.

Nice thingies but watch out the battery life, I have two issues now as the ones mounted to my bikes, a cheap one from Fleabay and a Trail Tech unit did not survive wintertime ...

Hi you need a resistor (8) in the circuits between the switch and the stop- and tail light, otherwise it won't work. You can too use a regulator instead, which should have 6V and 45W. The original resistor (looks crude) is not available anymore:

Before adjusting you should loosen the adjuster at the clutch lever on the handlebar completely. If there is still a spring at the engaging arm of the clutch no problem no if not please look up if the arm is retarded completely. On the clutch side of the engine there is a big plastic nut, just unscrew it, in the middle you find a screw and a secure nut, unscrew nut then adjust the engagement of the clutch with the inner bolt and a screwdriver so you have at least 2mm of play between the clutch and the engaging rod inside. Then do the fine adjusting of the cable again at the lever at the handle bar.

+1 for 1:50 mixture for Enduro or MX. The ratio is easy to mix.The 1:60 mixture is given with Motorex oil from KTM.