pschrauber

Italy not everywhere anymore the routes and riding possibility has to be marked and these markings are mostly local secrets.

Here you are, Motoplat is the ignition for the TR:

There are better brakes then the original Bultaco but I personal wouldn't do it. Try to find a Bultaco double shaft action brake plate and mount that to the hub, this will improve braking a lot and would be contemporary.

I mounted Falcons with alloy body and I' am very pleased with them. The shocks are light, very well set up, no problems. My personal recommendation. You can even get them with two springs per side as the original ones.

Wow that is really expensive. I paid not even the half in € for galvanizing a couple kg of screws and rechroming a Bultaco kick starter and a gear lever in 2012. It's not uncommon at all that you have to send them the parts in advance for getting a quote. If you can't agree the price tell them that they have to send back the parts. They then might give you a second price/quote

This worked very well so far, can even be mounted while hooked to the car, btw. your car alarm should too recognize that you have a trailer, at least in my car it's so very embarrassing if you have forgotten:

Other lubricant recommendation from Venhill for the cabels then the flush / oiling with WD40 is not provided from Venhill they even warn for using any other oil to cables, you have to have confused something ...

WD40 harms rubber, most oils or solvents do? Just this doesn't change my personal mind to use WD40. I might have searched at the wrong spots but couldn't find anything better as "overall" oil to use for cleaning ... even Venhill recommends WD40 for their cables.

The right chain oil ... there are as many opinions as brands. Coming from boiling the chain in this messy chain grease, then using all kinds of oils I now use PTFE. PDL chain lube is the brand but I think there are similar brand were you live, works great don't attract dirt easy to use and no significant wear to any chain I have used so far.

Moped class:

Looking at the pictures it looks good, and apperently not to difficult for a national event if you familiar with the ground*. The ground seems to be likewise the one we have here, a lot of sand with steep up's and downs and roots inbetween. I think that many riders are not so familiar with the ground, it's all about not to loose traction and the right track. At the last event with likewise ground I was riding together with two guys from abroad one from Austria and the other from Finland, they were too not familiar with the ground and had some concerns. On a ground like this clutch is rarely necessary also hopping around won't have the same good effects, just smooth riding with some speed in a higher gear.

Here a pic of different model years of the Ducati: If you really want to restore the Chispa you might look out for Ducati Mopeds of the mid 70's and you will find. If you want to restore a bike do your homework first which means take a Close look to the history read old books and magazines, then parts are no big problem ...

The engine is no miracle, it's a Ducati Mototrans also btw. used by Bultaco for the street model 49 GT. Anyway Ducati back then too made a trials bike too the 50cc Ducati 50 TT. Which uses the same engine.

Sounds too me like a silent bankrupty, too much talk no real clue and there so little bikes in general to sell to the market. I wish and hope the best but as longer the time goes without a solution as less good will be the result if we look to similar incidents.

Nice thingies but watch out the battery life, I have two issues now as the ones mounted to my bikes, a cheap one from Fleabay and a Trail Tech unit did not survive wintertime ...

Hi you need a resistor (8) in the circuits between the switch and the stop- and tail light, otherwise it won't work. You can too use a regulator instead, which should have 6V and 45W. The original resistor (looks crude) is not available anymore:

Before adjusting you should loosen the adjuster at the clutch lever on the handlebar completely. If there is still a spring at the engaging arm of the clutch no problem no if not please look up if the arm is retarded completely. On the clutch side of the engine there is a big plastic nut, just unscrew it, in the middle you find a screw and a secure nut, unscrew nut then adjust the engagement of the clutch with the inner bolt and a screwdriver so you have at least 2mm of play between the clutch and the engaging rod inside. Then do the fine adjusting of the cable again at the lever at the handle bar.

+1 for 1:50 mixture for Enduro or MX. The ratio is easy to mix.The 1:60 mixture is given with Motorex oil from KTM.

In own experience, the "putty" works quite well, I have repaired some really wicked places with that stuff. Here a link / picture from another trials forum were a side case of a YZ 175 of the non matching year model was modified to fit to the TY, These modifications were also made with "Knetmetall" http://trialforum.net/index.php/Attachment/18776-IMG-1987k-jpg/

I had similar problems with my Bultaco both side cases had cracks, due to hits through rocks, here the clutch side from inside: The welding was a nightmare ... as mentioned due to oil which came up during welding, anyway got a homogeneous metal layer again but not nice looking surface, still the logo hat some break outs ... here the rotor side: Then I decided to tried out 2K metal modelling masses which is heat resistant up to 300°C. That stuff is mixed together is for around 5 minutes soft like clay then hardens quickly as hard as Aluminium. Th allied masses can be milled, grinded like metal. I could reform the missing parts and then mill grind excessive material away. A second rotor side case had a bigger break out at the rear under the clutch mechanism: I could remodel the missing parts with this stuff very well: After the paint job they looked very well again. I would recommend this - we call it "Knetmetall" - its btw. very price worthy ... you only should know in advance how much you need and don't apply too much it is as difficult to process as metal. A rough underground - as already mentioned - is also important.

+1

I have no real advice but there are two things you can do to get a better trainings effect. When you have clears an obstacle in training do something else which also should be something new an difficult. Riding obstacles you can is just for warming up the first ten minutes. Second try to train with a friend so you see how he rides and he can see how you are riding. You might too swap bikes in between helps too. As more training and trials you ride as better you get... normally... I sadly should have more time for riding...

Yes the 199A gives you the feel to have the most power. At least in my personal experience. The 199b is more lazy in power output (in standard outfit with Femas rotor and big flywheel. I believe is Because of the heavier rotor. By using the flywheeel weight of the 250cc the engine rvs up much better. There a folks that have even lightened the rotor too but then the bike will takes ( with me on board) it's own way through the terrain. I have seen some photos and even videos from 199b models in the US, so there must be at least some around. I have no idea how they went there? You might have too look around in really long distances. I got my Sherpa through an ad in a lokal Italian craiglist. And I looked around around from 2006 to 2010 to find a complete one ... I had fun some ad's but mostly the bike wasn't complete or the seller had very high expectations about the worth in money. I even tried to get the bike of Fred Micheaud, but the seller then drew his ad back and denied the deal ... this was very sad ... I should have the photos left of this sadly not happens deal, (I can look them up and post them if there is someone interested). Anyway for the Sherpa I had to show up personal, which meant I had to drive 1500 km to get the bike. I did it, that was btw. really expensive but a kind of a short trip through the Alpes through Switzerland, using then the Bardolino Pass through Como and the pretty lakes there. Then a visit of Milano before going to Torino. After I bought the bike I reassembled it and stored it in the car. Then made a visit to Lingiotto in Turin, ( the famos house were there is a race and test road on the roof. hen headed back. The bike hot completely ready now, its at the workshop now for getting road registered... I believe to get a 199b you have to do some extra efforts

+1 on all posts about the cables and electrical wires, in doubt shortening the wires around 10mm to the plug cap and looking through the electrical connections is beside cleaning the points the first thing is I would do too (which you had done already). Last thing I would do is replace the plug, even if you have just mounted a new one. In my experience most twinshocks - at least the bikes I have - consume plugs frequently. It happens to my SWM, the Bultaco, Yamaha and even my Beta TR, that suddenly the plug isn't working proper. Sometimes it takes just a few hours sometimes it took nearly a three quarter year. I have no clue beside when the older type plug fitted they seems to last longer ...

My 199B had longer levers attached to the brake plates front and rear and they are made out of steel not aluminum. That combo works astonishing well when the chroming is still there. The chrome plating isn't bad either but you have to maintain aka clean the drum frequently from debris.