pschrauber

In own experience, the "putty" works quite well, I have repaired some really wicked places with that stuff. Here a link / picture from another trials forum were a side case of a YZ 175 of the non matching year model was modified to fit to the TY, These modifications were also made with "Knetmetall" http://trialforum.net/index.php/Attachment/18776-IMG-1987k-jpg/

I had similar problems with my Bultaco both side cases had cracks, due to hits through rocks, here the clutch side from inside: The welding was a nightmare ... as mentioned due to oil which came up during welding, anyway got a homogeneous metal layer again but not nice looking surface, still the logo hat some break outs ... here the rotor side: Then I decided to tried out 2K metal modelling masses which is heat resistant up to 300°C. That stuff is mixed together is for around 5 minutes soft like clay then hardens quickly as hard as Aluminium. Th allied masses can be milled, grinded like metal. I could reform the missing parts and then mill grind excessive material away. A second rotor side case had a bigger break out at the rear under the clutch mechanism: I could remodel the missing parts with this stuff very well: After the paint job they looked very well again. I would recommend this - we call it "Knetmetall" - its btw. very price worthy ... you only should know in advance how much you need and don't apply too much it is as difficult to process as metal. A rough underground - as already mentioned - is also important.

+1

I have no real advice but there are two things you can do to get a better trainings effect. When you have clears an obstacle in training do something else which also should be something new an difficult. Riding obstacles you can is just for warming up the first ten minutes. Second try to train with a friend so you see how he rides and he can see how you are riding. You might too swap bikes in between helps too. As more training and trials you ride as better you get... normally... I sadly should have more time for riding...

Yes the 199A gives you the feel to have the most power. At least in my personal experience. The 199b is more lazy in power output (in standard outfit with Femas rotor and big flywheel. I believe is Because of the heavier rotor. By using the flywheeel weight of the 250cc the engine rvs up much better. There a folks that have even lightened the rotor too but then the bike will takes ( with me on board) it's own way through the terrain. I have seen some photos and even videos from 199b models in the US, so there must be at least some around. I have no idea how they went there? You might have too look around in really long distances. I got my Sherpa through an ad in a lokal Italian craiglist. And I looked around around from 2006 to 2010 to find a complete one ... I had fun some ad's but mostly the bike wasn't complete or the seller had very high expectations about the worth in money. I even tried to get the bike of Fred Micheaud, but the seller then drew his ad back and denied the deal ... this was very sad ... I should have the photos left of this sadly not happens deal, (I can look them up and post them if there is someone interested). Anyway for the Sherpa I had to show up personal, which meant I had to drive 1500 km to get the bike. I did it, that was btw. really expensive but a kind of a short trip through the Alpes through Switzerland, using then the Bardolino Pass through Como and the pretty lakes there. Then a visit of Milano before going to Torino. After I bought the bike I reassembled it and stored it in the car. Then made a visit to Lingiotto in Turin, ( the famos house were there is a race and test road on the roof. hen headed back. The bike hot completely ready now, its at the workshop now for getting road registered... I believe to get a 199b you have to do some extra efforts

+1 on all posts about the cables and electrical wires, in doubt shortening the wires around 10mm to the plug cap and looking through the electrical connections is beside cleaning the points the first thing is I would do too (which you had done already). Last thing I would do is replace the plug, even if you have just mounted a new one. In my experience most twinshocks - at least the bikes I have - consume plugs frequently. It happens to my SWM, the Bultaco, Yamaha and even my Beta TR, that suddenly the plug isn't working proper. Sometimes it takes just a few hours sometimes it took nearly a three quarter year. I have no clue beside when the older type plug fitted they seems to last longer ...

My 199B had longer levers attached to the brake plates front and rear and they are made out of steel not aluminum. That combo works astonishing well when the chroming is still there. The chrome plating isn't bad either but you have to maintain aka clean the drum frequently from debris.

I used my TY the first years a lot on the roads too. It was a 125cc and did the "job" quite well. I still had then the autolube installed which was pleasant for refueling at any gas station. But the trials tires wear quick. The gearing should be taller easiest way is to replace the front sprocket. I had 15 front so I could ride at least 80 - 90 km/h at a longer time. 100km/h were only possible with full throttle and wasn't so pleasant 'cause the wheels weren't balanced.

That is a Polish rider, Kristof Paluch, the engine seems to be the russian Minsk model which was mounted too to the early RTX I believe.

Have you had contact with French riders been there? I do not know very much, my French is sadly not good and it is so important to speak (and write right), especially with this certain ambiguous way that should have a polite and also bright undertone, (my description is probably lacking the right words). Anyway I think we should distinguish between competitive riding and riding as a pleasure and a social event, then too all the informal meeting of riders to do trials riding that has nothing to do with collecting points to be added at the end of the year. There are a lot of events around that never will be issued by print or electronic media, instead there are many people that do trials riding as a kind of exercise in groups or even alone, that's also very common in the Alp area. You will probably never here about them or have any possibilities to count these riders but this happens especially in France overall quite often, they this also in north Italy there they call it motoalpinismo. In French they call events like the mentioned: recontres amicals, (friendly meetings), like "on roule en Bretange", "TY day's", "TLR day's", "Journée de Roulage - Domaine x y z - "just to name a few. In my view it's still trials riding but in a different non-competitive way. As there are no lists and now results there is nothing count aka to list up. The better climate together with the huge local riding potential give this possibility in a different kind of trials riding. If you want to neglect them as these riders do not perform trials professional wise then the ranking will be clearly much different.

I believe - not sure - but very many riders if not even most trials riders in percentage to the total population so I believe you will find in France, one of the most underrated country in trials. There is a real big community and there more then one handful of trials forums with a lot of members around, they have forums for Yamaha's trials bikes, Bultacos, classic bikes, Fantics, ... It's just a guess, but very remarkable ...

When it's just the rubber gaskets get an o-ring from eBay and problem solved. So did I at least. If you are interested I can show up diameter and size.

The tank is attached to the side at the rear by two rubber bushes that are mounted to a smaller tube beneath the central frame tube. The tank should have a rubber cushion of high density foam rubber between tank and frame, then will be hold by the seat.

So in the book there are not only some sentences or a paragraph copied, instead whole article? I don't have the book from Steve Saunders ...

I don't think that people wouldn't by a book "from" Steve Saunders if there are mention riding techniques that still exits for decades and haven't changed. I personal would give a high valuate to whom would mentioned this, this would show - at least to me- that the writer really took care about the theme because he combined it with previous statements which are still up to date.

Nowaday's information is so easy to get and even more to write it down and the easiness of copy and paste can - as we have read now - lead at least carelessness. Anyway it should be noticed that it is allowed to quote not only a sentence even sections of text, this is the better and more efficient way to trace down information then trying to describe an already published information in other words and probably causing failures, misunderstandings or myth. It also legal and free of any costs to quote already written text IF and that is important "... the quotation is marked as one..." 001 001 and there is a footnote and a footnote register which gives the original source. Then no problem everything is then OK, it's very common we just don't have to forget. Anyone who had written articles and books or still writes them should now this.

There is a rule of thump for setting the forks and rear shock(s) on a trials bike, the negative compression of the fork and the rear shock without the rider should be at the front around 5mm and to the rear the shock should - after a repeated gentle compression - allow to swing back in his neutral position which means decompress fully but not hit hard against the upper spring limiter. This can be adjusted if possible by the pre-load adjuster. To the sag (negative spring travel while the rider is standing on the bike), this should be around 30 - 50mm at the rear and 20 - 40mm at the front, if you have less the springs are to hard if you have more the springs are too soft. The springs are the key for a proper suspension not the adjustment of pre load or any spring compression. There are two very good "in depth" article about the adjustments of the suspension for trials machines in the German "Trialsport Magazin" issue 360 and 361.

No, all Aspen fuels contain alcyd naphta and around 0,1% benzol. As you said I use the standard Aspen for my chainsaw, brush cutter and sometimes even for the lawn mower too. Never had any complains and issues without once were I left the choke of the brush cutter accidently on which caused a big mess of unburned oil on the back of my shirt ... Starting is excellent with all engines and while I used it for the bike too. To the power there is no differences beside, the engines don't run hotter or leaner so far in my observation, it might depend to your climate.

The racing fuel doesn't need any reconfiguration of the carb. The other Aspen fuels you get I haven't tried for the bikes. I was informed about the fuel because I buy frequently standard Aspen for the brush cutter for mowing my meadows as when you mow with the brush cutter it happens often that you stand in the flow of exhaust gases causing headache at least. I asked Aspen about which fuel to use, they recommended Aspen+ with a more richer adjustment or racing were you can use the fuel without any changes. I then ordered a 20L canister and ... was a little bit astonished about the price, still I gave the fuel a chance and was pleased there were no back draws, everything worked as it should beside there are no fumes and the exhaust gases don't smell as much. I did not made any adjustments to the carb. As I have to order the Aspen racing fuel at my local agri trade (Agravis) and it's pricy I have now switched to ARAL Ultimate. This fuel doesn't have any ethanol components inside also provides over 100 octane and is just half the price I get it at nearly all ARAL gas stations were I live. They use ether instead of ethanol also no problems with storage, plastic and glasfiber ... so far.

Well, that's nice for the US as I understand for us it might be very complicated to get that gasoline over the pond. The alternative as there is at least one in existence is Aspen (not the city in Colorado) racing which give's you even 102 octane, ethanol free and even petrol free gasoline. It's made out of alkyd and therefore even environment friendly not classified as poison (as petrol) only to be harmful. I had bought a 20l canister, it works very good can also be stored for years and there are no smoke or any soot residues, anyway with around 3€ for the litre sadly not cheap. Interested? look here: http://en.aspen.se/Products/Aspen_R

Already the Guanaco model had the extensions TL, M, W, E, and GARA. While TL is easy it stands for TriaL. The other aren't so easy: and are found on this catalog page at the rear side: TL M.W meant trials model with rear shocks without gas reservoir and metal parts (tank)

OK your bike and your needs, there are too Inbus (Allen) Linsenflachschrauben (in english "complicated") available ... but they look a little bit different: Also on fleabay ... http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=Inbus+Linsenflanschschrauben+&_sacat=0

Do the brake pads touch the inliner inside the hub well or are there just areas which have contact? You might check out if they touch proper f. e. with chalk placed on the brake pads, then carefully mount the brake again, engage the lever once and firmly! Then dismantle the brake again and take a look to the pads, if everything is "wiped" away it's at least not a problem related to bad aligned pad's ...

They made at least 500 model 199b bikes build in 1981 at the Bultaco factory until Bultaco closed it's doors for ever. The next production batches after the bankruptcy of Bultaco were made at the facilities at the Derbi plant from the former workers of Bultaco, as a social program of the Government. This production was organized by the workers itself, no head, no documentation, ... using the remaining parts that were left and producing some new.

Great outcome very sanitary, but ... I personal do not like the fasteners of the sidepanels and rear fender to name two places and would change them. Why not use these screws which rounded head which are called round headed bolts, these fits much better to the bike and were of the type SWM used back in the day, you get them in steel and stainless steel: Forgot to name them in German: Becherschraube, (try google / fleabay)