pschrauber

The bike is - in own experience - sadly quite loud, even with a NOS silencer which I have mounted know. The first TR34 from 1987 with the two rear silencer the middle section made out of steel and the rear made out of aluminum is even louder, I had the 1987 back then, now having a TR34 1988 Replica. You might look up the middle section of the '87 model and mount a much longer rear silencer from a bike that will fit, (no idea from which), still the high pinging noise from the pipe will be much note able. Anyway this bike model runs very nice and is astonishing powerful ...

Have you tried just heat reflector material or real heat protection foil that has a fiberglass inlay? I used a mat of this stuf to protect the plastic side covers of my KTM were the exhausrt goes very narrow with the side panel. It worked so far very good. The heat insulation nad reflecting mat is called zircotec ... ZircoFlex. http://www.zircotec.com/page/heatshield_products/97

Wow 15 ft/lb that is over 20Nm ? The bolts to the yokes are allen screws in M6 diameter with 1,0mm threads and with grade 8.8 the maximum torque (according DIN 912) is given 10,2 Nm = 7.5ft/lb. As they are bolted in aluminium I wouldn't use so much tension, the handbook of my KTM states 5 Nm for M6 bolts, were many screws are bolted i aluminium, which I think is OK if you realy need a number.

Having the same problems with insurances, this time even using different countries ... in own experience. A motorcycle or car is a mobile vehicle and can be used everywhere, and your insurance should therefore cover standard rood use of the bike. Then there are the contract terms of the insurances, which as I know are not very much different in Mainland Europe (sadly no knowledge abou the UK). A vehicle can be used at another place (town f.e.) for a shorter time period, (in Germany it is 3 months), then you have to get the registered at the different place (town ...). When done so you should too have the right to get the bike insured at a different place. What don't work is to have the bike registered at on place but using it in different places and insured at a different place, because the insurance rate might be different between the places. (The insurance f.e. is mostly much costlier in a big town then in a small village). The address for billing contact infos and so one can be different that is no problem, even for insurances in different countrys. I hope this helps.

A model 10! that's cool, looking forward to repair / rebuild of this very first model. As I have heard so far parts aren't as easy to get for this model as for most later models due to the lower production run, the age and fewer survivors. I would too ask Hugh Bultaco in the US because he was the Importer for Bultaco to the USA/America and Orlando Calonder in Switzerland, he was the main importer for Europe on the mainland. Both are still in business. As I know the importer for the Sherpa model 10 was back then the Rickmann's in the UK, might be a possible source for parts too.

There are bazillion possibilities to modify or pimp a Sherpa, before doing so we and especially you have to find out what you want.Get the bike, do the basics so it runs and then go riding. Everything else comes then, surplus you then know how much stiffer you want to have the front fork or how much more travel you need for the rear shocks ... ( for naming two examples, in my 0,02 cent opinion )

I had also some problems with adjusting the carb. My TR34 replica from 1988 had no bottom and the idle rpm changed from being to low or to high. An comparison with the original specs for needle and jets showed that there were a different needle and a different main jet used, additional the slide was worn and too the small gaskets for the air screw, at least the idle jet was too clogged. I replaced the jets, valve, needle, slide and air screw with gaskets and voilá all issues to the carb were gone. You never know what has happened to all these small parts during the last 20 years, in doubt as they are not expensive replace them. If the bike then run very well you have fixed the issue. If not take a look at the rubber manifold of the intake the rubber can have cracks ( mine had), it's also good to take a look at the reeds they too can be worn out.

For the Aprillia if Rotax powered getting parts is far easier. To the Italjet parts for anything are very difficult to get even in Italy. The MK I of the Italjet (completely green) is heavy, the later MK II (white and green) "PIUMA" (feather = piuma in Italian) is much lighter), around 95 instead of 100kg! In the beginning to mid 80's I had two Piuma models. The bike is in many aspects a Bultaco clone. I personal - if I were you - would take the Aprillia when Rotax powered. To the very early Aprillia with Hiro engines ... well here it depends how good parts are to trace in the UK. The very early Aprillias - what I have been told - were not so easy to come along with depending frame layout. Which Aprillia or Italjet are you referring to?

Annecy! ... very nice place to live ... and all the cool possibilities of riding in the Alpes near by !!! (sorry for hijacking)

Super sanitary !!!

The model series between 1987 - 1990 and the TR 35 from 1991 are pretty much the same. Exceptions: -1987: different rear exhaust, different carb, some minor change to the clutch, side panel on the right, -1990 an 1991: fork (upside down units), There is the Alp model but I don't know if this was ever produced as a 125cc model ??? Finding parts is looking for a needle in a hay stack anyway welcome to the club, the bike is great, sadly the exhaust tone is a little bit impertinent and loud compared to other bikes. ue to the particular noise you will already be recognized from a distance without to be seen.

The material of the chain guard looks different what I have seen before is this item made out of glasfiber?

NGK BP 5 ES is good. NGK BP 4 ES is my personal choose for trials riding, much better durability and color. The colder 5 seems to run to cold still black while the hotter 4 has a nice brown color as it should. For trails and street riding I would use a 5. Better are the old Champion N-12Y, they offer a broader temperature range but difficult to get in these days.

To the tank holt problem, I had the same issue. The stanchions hittet the nut / bolt. I solved it by using a rod, one side with threads, the other side welded to a washer t: 4mm. As a nut I made an additional washer t: 4mm with inner threads so you can mount him to the rod. For thigtening I drilled two additional holes in the washer. I have an extra tool to with which you can thighten them, looks very professional and now the stanchions arn't hitting the bolts to the tank anymore.

Yep sorry the 350 cc has a 28mm in diameter, (the 250cc model has a 26mm) ... I mixed up the rows while writing off the spec's the other values depending the jets .. are right the post is already edited.

If you have a Dellorto PHBH 28 BS mounted: - main: 110 - needle: X2, second notch from top - needle jet: AV 264 - idle jet: 55 - idle screw: depending your location around 1,75 turns 28mm is right (sorry)

Cool, is this a TR 33? Thank you very much for posting !!! And please - if possible - more of them, looking toward to more pic's in this matter aka brand related thread.

There is no real need for an electronic ignition as long as your standard point system is adjusted well and all components are working as they should, the engine of the Sherpa will run in trials mostly in low to mid revs, if it would be a Frontera (Bultaco Enduro model) something much different, there you really use the full powerband frequently also if you are a very good and serious rider you might too need the electronic system. But then all other components should also be fresh like new so that you will find out a real benefit. Points and condensers are relatively cheap against the electronic system, if you are not on the lazy side and do frequently maintaince the points system works quite well and the saved money can be instead invested in more important tweaks like suspension, carb or clutch, ... Just my 0,02€ opinion ...

Mmmh ... isn't it better to replace sprockets and the chain together. In my personal experience a even slightly worn sprocket will wear out a new chain quicker and vice a verse. Then again, as a trials bike is not so powerfull in comparison to a MX or street bike the chain lasts very long when maintainced right. My personal thump of rule to chain wear is as long as I can't pull up the chain from the rear sprocket more then half of the height of the theeth from the sprocket itself everything is OK. When there is more play I replace all of them as the chain can hop over in silly accidents, (may be only a MX / Enduro problem). To the half link's it's easy to get half links from Regina and IRIS, from other brands I really don't know??? Anyway I'am very stuck with DID ER MX chains as they are one of the few in my experience that have a good durability on big bore MX bikes too and still are light, so i use them for my KTM and also for the trials bikes. The half links I mounted to the DID chains for the trials bike I took from IRIS (as DID at least doesn't sell them were I live ??) they are very close in diameter to the shafts inside the rollers, never had a failure so far.

This was my intension, with a half link you will get additional three rollers which seems to me (looking at the photo of our bike) to be then the right length. (two seems to be not enough and four rollers might be too much again. See here (same model):

Looks gorgeous, very well done. I personal would give the chain a bit more slack, you might need to mount a half link.

Haven't tried ... but: - the 199b had has no cylinder gasket, the 199a has a thick copper gasket. - the 199b has a 85mm bore, the 199a has 83,2mm.

Some bikes always had a half link, even when delivered to the customer, the Sherpa 199b for example. You can adjust the chain tension with the snails at the rear axle, but if you want to have them as less as possible sticking out and get damaged a half link is a very good solution in my personal opinion. As stated, the factory made links are better then the ones with the cotter key, but watch out for the diameter of the chain links, there are slightly differences between the chain manufactors ( not the roller, they are the same), therefore I posted two different ressources.

The bolt at the bottom should have a fibre washer seal, instead of a star lock washer it should be a split lock washer, at least that is what I found in four different Betor forks for Bultaco and SWM. To trick and tweaks: You might look up if the stanchions a straight. As straighter they are as better works the fork. The double oil seals wear pretty fast in my experience, you might switch to ariate fork seals which have an extra dust seal on top, just one seal per fork leg, the come from the KTM SX65, they work very smooth 'cause of less friction. If the spring is worn out you can replace the spring against one from Magical which is more progressive too. The piston in the inner rod has a wrap with a fibre bush, this might be worn too it should then be replaced. For reassembling and tightening the lower Allen bolt you might complete temporary mount the fork spring and the upper fork nuts so you have enough tension on the inner fork piston/rod ... or you use an old wooden broom stick, works too.

Anyway half links do exists and for a proper chain adjustment you sometimes need a half link, as the length of the chain - as already stated before in post #5 - can vary due to which size of sprockets you have. Here a link were you can get half links: - Half Link Regina 520: http://www.trialshop.net/shop/Technikzubeh%C3%83%C2%B6r/Ketten-Zahnkr%C3%83nze-Ritzel-Zubeh%C3%83%C2%B6r/Ketten/Halbglied-f%C3%BCr-Regina-Kette::516.html - Half Link IRIS 520: http://www.trialshop.net/shop/Technikzubehör/Ketten-ZahnkrÃnze-Ritzel-Zubehör/Ketten/Halbglied-f%C3%BCr-520er-IRIS-Kette::513.html You need too a second connecting link to mount the half link to your chain: