pschrauber

For the Aprillia if Rotax powered getting parts is far easier. To the Italjet parts for anything are very difficult to get even in Italy. The MK I of the Italjet (completely green) is heavy, the later MK II (white and green) "PIUMA" (feather = piuma in Italian) is much lighter), around 95 instead of 100kg! In the beginning to mid 80's I had two Piuma models. The bike is in many aspects a Bultaco clone. I personal - if I were you - would take the Aprillia when Rotax powered. To the very early Aprillia with Hiro engines ... well here it depends how good parts are to trace in the UK. The very early Aprillias - what I have been told - were not so easy to come along with depending frame layout. Which Aprillia or Italjet are you referring to?

Annecy! ... very nice place to live ... and all the cool possibilities of riding in the Alpes near by !!! (sorry for hijacking)

Super sanitary !!!

The model series between 1987 - 1990 and the TR 35 from 1991 are pretty much the same. Exceptions: -1987: different rear exhaust, different carb, some minor change to the clutch, side panel on the right, -1990 an 1991: fork (upside down units), There is the Alp model but I don't know if this was ever produced as a 125cc model ??? Finding parts is looking for a needle in a hay stack anyway welcome to the club, the bike is great, sadly the exhaust tone is a little bit impertinent and loud compared to other bikes. ue to the particular noise you will already be recognized from a distance without to be seen.

The material of the chain guard looks different what I have seen before is this item made out of glasfiber?

NGK BP 5 ES is good. NGK BP 4 ES is my personal choose for trials riding, much better durability and color. The colder 5 seems to run to cold still black while the hotter 4 has a nice brown color as it should. For trails and street riding I would use a 5. Better are the old Champion N-12Y, they offer a broader temperature range but difficult to get in these days.

To the tank holt problem, I had the same issue. The stanchions hittet the nut / bolt. I solved it by using a rod, one side with threads, the other side welded to a washer t: 4mm. As a nut I made an additional washer t: 4mm with inner threads so you can mount him to the rod. For thigtening I drilled two additional holes in the washer. I have an extra tool to with which you can thighten them, looks very professional and now the stanchions arn't hitting the bolts to the tank anymore.

Yep sorry the 350 cc has a 28mm in diameter, (the 250cc model has a 26mm) ... I mixed up the rows while writing off the spec's the other values depending the jets .. are right the post is already edited.

If you have a Dellorto PHBH 28 BS mounted: - main: 110 - needle: X2, second notch from top - needle jet: AV 264 - idle jet: 55 - idle screw: depending your location around 1,75 turns 28mm is right (sorry)

There is no real need for an electronic ignition as long as your standard point system is adjusted well and all components are working as they should, the engine of the Sherpa will run in trials mostly in low to mid revs, if it would be a Frontera (Bultaco Enduro model) something much different, there you really use the full powerband frequently also if you are a very good and serious rider you might too need the electronic system. But then all other components should also be fresh like new so that you will find out a real benefit. Points and condensers are relatively cheap against the electronic system, if you are not on the lazy side and do frequently maintaince the points system works quite well and the saved money can be instead invested in more important tweaks like suspension, carb or clutch, ... Just my 0,02€ opinion ...

Mmmh ... isn't it better to replace sprockets and the chain together. In my personal experience a even slightly worn sprocket will wear out a new chain quicker and vice a verse. Then again, as a trials bike is not so powerfull in comparison to a MX or street bike the chain lasts very long when maintainced right. My personal thump of rule to chain wear is as long as I can't pull up the chain from the rear sprocket more then half of the height of the theeth from the sprocket itself everything is OK. When there is more play I replace all of them as the chain can hop over in silly accidents, (may be only a MX / Enduro problem). To the half link's it's easy to get half links from Regina and IRIS, from other brands I really don't know??? Anyway I'am very stuck with DID ER MX chains as they are one of the few in my experience that have a good durability on big bore MX bikes too and still are light, so i use them for my KTM and also for the trials bikes. The half links I mounted to the DID chains for the trials bike I took from IRIS (as DID at least doesn't sell them were I live ??) they are very close in diameter to the shafts inside the rollers, never had a failure so far.

This was my intension, with a half link you will get additional three rollers which seems to me (looking at the photo of our bike) to be then the right length. (two seems to be not enough and four rollers might be too much again. See here (same model):

Looks gorgeous, very well done. I personal would give the chain a bit more slack, you might need to mount a half link.

Haven't tried ... but: - the 199b had has no cylinder gasket, the 199a has a thick copper gasket. - the 199b has a 85mm bore, the 199a has 83,2mm.

Some bikes always had a half link, even when delivered to the customer, the Sherpa 199b for example. You can adjust the chain tension with the snails at the rear axle, but if you want to have them as less as possible sticking out and get damaged a half link is a very good solution in my personal opinion. As stated, the factory made links are better then the ones with the cotter key, but watch out for the diameter of the chain links, there are slightly differences between the chain manufactors ( not the roller, they are the same), therefore I posted two different ressources.

The bolt at the bottom should have a fibre washer seal, instead of a star lock washer it should be a split lock washer, at least that is what I found in four different Betor forks for Bultaco and SWM. To trick and tweaks: You might look up if the stanchions a straight. As straighter they are as better works the fork. The double oil seals wear pretty fast in my experience, you might switch to ariate fork seals which have an extra dust seal on top, just one seal per fork leg, the come from the KTM SX65, they work very smooth 'cause of less friction. If the spring is worn out you can replace the spring against one from Magical which is more progressive too. The piston in the inner rod has a wrap with a fibre bush, this might be worn too it should then be replaced. For reassembling and tightening the lower Allen bolt you might complete temporary mount the fork spring and the upper fork nuts so you have enough tension on the inner fork piston/rod ... or you use an old wooden broom stick, works too.

Anyway half links do exists and for a proper chain adjustment you sometimes need a half link, as the length of the chain - as already stated before in post #5 - can vary due to which size of sprockets you have. Here a link were you can get half links: - Half Link Regina 520: http://www.trialshop.net/shop/Technikzubeh%C3%83%C2%B6r/Ketten-Zahnkr%C3%83nze-Ritzel-Zubeh%C3%83%C2%B6r/Ketten/Halbglied-f%C3%BCr-Regina-Kette::516.html - Half Link IRIS 520: http://www.trialshop.net/shop/Technikzubehör/Ketten-ZahnkrÃnze-Ritzel-Zubehör/Ketten/Halbglied-f%C3%BCr-520er-IRIS-Kette::513.html You need too a second connecting link to mount the half link to your chain:

That is a German Powerdynamo, they are really well made and I'am really thinking to get one for my Yamaha. BTW.: There is not only one ignition system with light available there is also one without light, even with twin sparks availablke, too different rotor weights. Not enough you can also get a custom made system: Powerdynamo supplies a lot of brands and I never have heard any complains so far. http://www.powerdynamo.biz/deu/systems/lists/bultaco.php Sadly as a reseller France Trial Classic has made some profit to your purchase ... the same iginition from the manufactor would have saved you aroung 50€!

To the R type, I haven't had anything better in hand ... The pipe is rebuild and the rear exhaust NOS so there should not be any resistance, the compression is very good I have to stand on the pegs while leaning against a tree or similar to get proper force for kick when the engine is cold, once the motor got warm it's much easier to start, a slight kick and the engine fires up. But I will check the timimg once again.

Thanks for the tips. The bike needs the choke, even when it's warm outside, also when the engine has cooled down for more then 10 minutes. Jet's, needle, slide, float valves were replaced and choosen after the owners manual. I'am too running 1:75 with high octane fuel without ethanol. I will again check the float if there is a puncture or if the float isn't spinning free on the axle, ( which I had to replace too as the former was slightly bent... ).

My TR 34 eats the plug really fast. The ignition is rebuild, Motoplat type with new electronic parts, the carburator is also rebuild, all jets and the slide are new, I'am using the standard jetting, being around 55m above sea level.. (There is no wear inside the carb body). After the rebuild I mounted a new NGK BR 7 ES* and now - just after 4 h of riding the plug failed and the electrodes are pretty much eroded. I'am using a slightly hotter plug as the colder ones appears to get oily and sooted, the used plug is still sooty and slightly oily sadly still not the "right color". * The R type, I couldn't get a plug without R so quick, (maybe thats the issue ???) Second the bike consumes remarkable much gas around one to two Liter per h! Otherwise it runs really great ... Any recommandation for a different (better) plug and do any other TR owners have the same observations while riding the bike depend fuel consumption?

There are straight going kick starters from the Enduro and MX bikes still available, maybe these ones will pass the footrest. If you are done with your original trials model kicker for the SWM I'am very interested in this model.

The letters of the Bultaco logo on the gas tank seems to me to be a little bit to small. Very nice rebuild!

Isn't there already one trials related Magazine, are there enough buyers / subscribers. Here in Germany we have Trialsport, a Magazine sold since1975! Started by former 11 times German trials- champion Felix Krahnstöver, for a couple of years ago it was overtaken by Hans Greiner. In my personal opinion still one of the best trials related Magazine you can get as it is now so long on the market and we don't have too many trials riders here I would say the mix of reports from trials in Germany also international modern and classic trials, a complete list of all trials national and the most important to ride international wise, also all news about national events abroad. In depth going test and how do I set up my suspension, ... and very interesting the bla bla bla pages that covers everything that happens about trials national and international wise, who with whom, new prototypes, ... Also important trials wanderings through the Alps, through Pyrenees, ... then the last page with the 5 of the month!

Nope ... magnets inside don't fall off they are loosing their magnetism. By time which would be after just 20 years very uncommen or by heat. Heat means temperatures above normal engine temperatures, let's say 200 deg. Celsius or more. You can check it out easily by yourself take a magnet and heat him up with a torch over 400 deg., let him cool down again and then check out how good he still will stick to metall compared to before. Anyway what still makes me wonder is that the ignition was repaired by professionals (as I understood) and now still is not working, ...