pschrauber

That is a German Powerdynamo, they are really well made and I'am really thinking to get one for my Yamaha. BTW.: There is not only one ignition system with light available there is also one without light, even with twin sparks availablke, too different rotor weights. Not enough you can also get a custom made system: Powerdynamo supplies a lot of brands and I never have heard any complains so far. http://www.powerdynamo.biz/deu/systems/lists/bultaco.php Sadly as a reseller France Trial Classic has made some profit to your purchase ... the same iginition from the manufactor would have saved you aroung 50€!

To the R type, I haven't had anything better in hand ... The pipe is rebuild and the rear exhaust NOS so there should not be any resistance, the compression is very good I have to stand on the pegs while leaning against a tree or similar to get proper force for kick when the engine is cold, once the motor got warm it's much easier to start, a slight kick and the engine fires up. But I will check the timimg once again.

Thanks for the tips. The bike needs the choke, even when it's warm outside, also when the engine has cooled down for more then 10 minutes. Jet's, needle, slide, float valves were replaced and choosen after the owners manual. I'am too running 1:75 with high octane fuel without ethanol. I will again check the float if there is a puncture or if the float isn't spinning free on the axle, ( which I had to replace too as the former was slightly bent... ).

My TR 34 eats the plug really fast. The ignition is rebuild, Motoplat type with new electronic parts, the carburator is also rebuild, all jets and the slide are new, I'am using the standard jetting, being around 55m above sea level.. (There is no wear inside the carb body). After the rebuild I mounted a new NGK BR 7 ES* and now - just after 4 h of riding the plug failed and the electrodes are pretty much eroded. I'am using a slightly hotter plug as the colder ones appears to get oily and sooted, the used plug is still sooty and slightly oily sadly still not the "right color". * The R type, I couldn't get a plug without R so quick, (maybe thats the issue ???) Second the bike consumes remarkable much gas around one to two Liter per h! Otherwise it runs really great ... Any recommandation for a different (better) plug and do any other TR owners have the same observations while riding the bike depend fuel consumption?

There are straight going kick starters from the Enduro and MX bikes still available, maybe these ones will pass the footrest. If you are done with your original trials model kicker for the SWM I'am very interested in this model.

The letters of the Bultaco logo on the gas tank seems to me to be a little bit to small. Very nice rebuild!

Isn't there already one trials related Magazine, are there enough buyers / subscribers. Here in Germany we have Trialsport, a Magazine sold since1975! Started by former 11 times German trials- champion Felix Krahnstöver, for a couple of years ago it was overtaken by Hans Greiner. In my personal opinion still one of the best trials related Magazine you can get as it is now so long on the market and we don't have too many trials riders here I would say the mix of reports from trials in Germany also international modern and classic trials, a complete list of all trials national and the most important to ride international wise, also all news about national events abroad. In depth going test and how do I set up my suspension, ... and very interesting the bla bla bla pages that covers everything that happens about trials national and international wise, who with whom, new prototypes, ... Also important trials wanderings through the Alps, through Pyrenees, ... then the last page with the 5 of the month!

Nope ... magnets inside don't fall off they are loosing their magnetism. By time which would be after just 20 years very uncommen or by heat. Heat means temperatures above normal engine temperatures, let's say 200 deg. Celsius or more. You can check it out easily by yourself take a magnet and heat him up with a torch over 400 deg., let him cool down again and then check out how good he still will stick to metall compared to before. Anyway what still makes me wonder is that the ignition was repaired by professionals (as I understood) and now still is not working, ...

Mmmh ... seems to me when I read your postings that there might be still an issue with the ignition parts or maybe even with the magnetic rotor which can have lost magnet which can occur when the rotor was in some kind heat treated, (milled for getting rid of weight, ...), or through age, ( should normally happen first after 30 + x years; so the rotor should under normal circumstances OK? That the other stator worked doesn't mean there is enough magetism left for running the Motoplat. For more information you can look up this page, especially for the cast Motoplat ignitions. http://www.motelek.net/zundanlagen/motoplat1.html The guy running this site is living in Austria, he is an electric engineer and repairs and doing research to old electronic ignitions as a hobby! He repaired the ignition of my Beta TR, also this incast type model, you can also call him up for discussing the issue. The contact info is given in the webpages. If it is the rotor and he lost magnetism you to give it to a company that can re magnetise the rotor.

@twinshock: I did not state that the rules are irrelevant. I'am just looking for an answer why this judgment in observing happens. And I personal think there is all said. I can't see any mentioned points that are not logical. If you are referring to subjunctives, since when subjunctive form about impressions have to be logical? This is nuts. If you want mistake free rides and observing let robots do the work. Not my fashion if you would ask me. But thank you for improving my English skills, there is something to learn and explore everyday it's a lifetime task. Mission in this matter accomplished.

I just explained that there are rules in sport and there is the spirit of sport. Sometimes the spirit of sport is higher rated then the rule. And please remember it wasn't me observing the ride, it was someone else.

At first, so this particular ride was a really bad ride? It would be interesting to know why it is in your opinion not so well ridden in terms of skills. I 'am watching WCT now for a really long time and it doesn't happen often to see a rider which a stalled engine that managed to restart his motor on the fly while going through the section. And I have been to some personal In Europe. You might read again my previous post about the scores a rider will get, it's up to the observer in the section to jud.ge the rider and I respect his evaluation. The observer is the one that is standing there the hole day long looking at every rider that goes through his section. The observers are the ones that have a full picture of how good or bad the rider will manage to ride through. As a spectator you have to stay at this section the complete day and from the very first beginning to get as much information as the observer. And as already mentioned before the observer was very pleased with the ride, so he judged a zero. This evaluation is with to discuss but it will not change the result, but as we don't have other information, just this one ride l - for my part - can't see a failure, if there would have been one, the other teams / riders have protested, - as they are all professionals -, but they haven't, so everything seems to be OK.

All in all it was a very well ridden section by the rider. The observer was pleased ( even clapping his hands for all the effort the rider has done getting further in the section ), in doubt the observer has the right to score the section to the benefit of the rider. He (the observer) did that in this particular ride through the section, so everything is OK, in my personal opinion. Only if there has been in the same section and the same observer a likewise ride and the observer would have given a five that would be a problem in my personal view. In any other sport event were there is a referee it's the same, the referee or observer counts the points, as there are some sections there are likewise much referees / observers and there might be slightly differences in what they see and how they value We have to give the observer more respect and so more confidence in what they do, a observer has to have confidence then he will "evaluate" fair and consistently and that is what any sport needs, little differences between section may occur but were is the biff in this matter, as after the ridden section there is another, (Sepp Herberher: "... nach dem Spiel ist vor dem Spiel.").

I started to add the flash components to my Bul. still in process using standard coil and contemporary electric devices, it's just for road registration under vintage registration rules we have here: https://picasaweb.google.com/110483524567493669643/TeileBultacoSherpa340#5918716962636628818

Original levers do show up in Italian and French craig lists. Then older Husqvarna levers from the 70's do also fit they are a little bit longer and too like the original ones with a foldable top. I once bought one from ebay on the US, price was lower then shipping... but got too an original one so I did not needed the Husky lever which I then gave away. To be sure to get the right one ask for diameter of the hole for the shaft and the amount of teeth before buying.

Thanks, here a how to do; http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Rust-with-Citric-Acid/

Citrus acid works very well for getting off any rust or corrosion but you need a big containment to fill so the wheel will fit. I have used it for cleaning up the radiators as there had too some corrosion inside. It worked very well, best and fastest result you get when heating up the water acid mix up to 70deg. Celsius. Also the parts should be de- greased before use oil as grease will protect the corrosive against the acid.

Just wondering are you looking for an original one or an aftermarket gear lever?

Mmmh ... The hole package counts, even different shock length or rear swing arm length have an influence to the steering geometry. If I would have an SWM frame - suspension unit left and want to have the unit transformed in something special ... I would take the geometrical specs from a more modern bike and compare them to the geometry of the SWM unit. I would then transform the spec's from the modern bike to the SWM frame. I guess a later Aprillia or end nineties Gas-Gas (As mentioned IF I would have a spare frame AND would like to some kind of practical RESEARCH.) There was a very good series about modern trials frames and suspensions and the geometry of the steering, too discussing the possibilities and geometrical spec's. Issued in Trialsport a couple of years ago, I have too look up the numbers.

Yes, the fork set up in geometry between the Marzocchi and the Betor is much different, beginning with the yokes then the length of the forks itself, (Marzocchies are around 30mm longer) and the distance between the axis of the fork and the front wheel axle differs too. I made some measurements and compared the forks but I don't know in which pile I have left the notice. Here some photos: Marzocchi SWM TL.NW 1980 - Betor Bultaco (lightend) - Betor SWM Yokes Bultaco - Yokes SWM: Distance axis fork to front axle: Marzocci - Betor Bultaco - Betor SWM: Fork and overrun, as any change in forkangle, fork length, distance fork axis steering steam ... changes the overrun to the fork :

+1 this is important, especially cables (like to fail in the weirdest moments), plug, and a spare innertube 19'' to fit front or rear, in any case of. I use too flat boxes ... that can be piled up easy:

This - in different size available - is an astonishing good plier: even replaced wrenches.

Hi Ross! I looked up the old bike test from Trialsport, when the yellow Guanaco came out the frame geometrie and the steering angle was changed stated in the bike test from 1980. When SWM changed the fork from Marzocchi to Betor and cutted away the mudguard loop (which was in 1981 / 82) these were the "only" differences statet back then in a short message in Trialsport (As I found so far), likewise the change to the blue color scheme this was only mentioned once as a favor due to Pernod which was their main sponser !!! Then again with the Jumbo the complete frame was new developed and also the steereing angle altered, (a story bout the development of the engine and frame in Trialsport of September 1982, issue 78), the foot pegs were placed 5cm to the rear and the complete center of gravity was also placed 2,5cm to the rear, the front therefor feels much lighter on these later bikes. Anyway with the fork swap from Marzocchi to Betor the complete steering angle was too changed as the dimension and also the overrun is much different between these Fork models. As I figured out even between Betor forks for Bultaco and SWM.

+1 and to be honest even "newer" Bultaco models run better with most Mikuni or DellOrto mounted. The design of the older Amal and Bing carburators was not very effective ...

Oh the question of questions, ... well I have made good experience with PDL Dry Lube on teflon basis. But I don't know if its sold in the UK? At least were I live quite priceworthy as in the same price range as Castrol even cheaper then Bel-Ray or Yamahalube, you really don't need as much to apply as with common chain lube it "sticks" very good too. Even in very dirty environment the chain stayed clean so far and we have quite a lot mud and sand here. The only disatvantage ... you need to get rid of any chain oil or grease that was pured/sprayed on the chain before, otherwise it will not stick to the chain. Link: http://www.ebay.de/itm/like/330897562587?lpid=106&_configDebug=ViewItemDictionary.ENABLE_PAYMENTS_IN_HLP:true&hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1