Original levers do show up in Italian and French craig lists. Then older Husqvarna levers from the 70's do also fit they are a little bit longer and too like the original ones with a foldable top. I once bought one from ebay on the US, price was lower then shipping... but got too an original one so I did not needed the Husky lever which I then gave away.
To be sure to get the right one ask for diameter of the hole for the shaft and the amount of teeth before buying.
Citrus acid works very well for getting off any rust or corrosion but you need a big containment to fill so the wheel will fit. I have used it for cleaning up the radiators as there had too some corrosion inside.
It worked very well, best and fastest result you get when heating up the water acid mix up to 70deg. Celsius. Also the parts should be de- greased before use oil as grease will protect the corrosive against the acid.
Mmmh ... The hole package counts, even different shock length or rear swing arm length have an influence to the steering geometry.
If I would have an SWM frame - suspension unit left and want to have the unit transformed in something special ... I would take the geometrical specs from a more modern bike and compare them to the geometry of the SWM unit. I would then transform the spec's from the modern bike to the SWM frame. I guess a later Aprillia or end nineties Gas-Gas
(As mentioned IF I would have a spare frame AND would like to some kind of practical RESEARCH.)
There was a very good series about modern trials frames and suspensions and the geometry of the steering, too discussing the possibilities and geometrical spec's. Issued in Trialsport a couple of years ago, I have too look up the numbers.
the fork set up in geometry between the Marzocchi and the Betor is much different, beginning with the yokes then the length of the forks itself, (Marzocchies are around 30mm longer) and the distance between the axis of the fork and the front wheel axle differs too. I made some measurements and compared the forks but I don't know in which pile I have left the notice. Here some photos:
I looked up the old bike test from Trialsport, when the yellow Guanaco came out the frame geometrie and the steering angle was changed stated in the bike test from 1980.
When SWM changed the fork from Marzocchi to Betor and cutted away the mudguard loop (which was in 1981 / 82) these were the "only" differences statet back then in a short message in Trialsport (As I found so far), likewise the change to the blue color scheme this was only mentioned once as a favor due to Pernod which was their main sponser !!!
Then again with the Jumbo the complete frame was new developed and also the steereing angle altered, (a story bout the development of the engine and frame in Trialsport of September 1982, issue 78), the foot pegs were placed 5cm to the rear and the complete center of gravity was also placed 2,5cm to the rear, the front therefor feels much lighter on these later bikes.
Anyway with the fork swap from Marzocchi to Betor the complete steering angle was too changed as the dimension and also the overrun is much different between these Fork models.
As I figured out even between Betor forks for Bultaco and SWM.
Oh the question of questions, ... well I have made good experience with PDL Dry Lube on teflon basis. But I don't know if its sold in the UK?
At least were I live quite priceworthy as in the same price range as Castrol even cheaper then Bel-Ray or Yamahalube, you really don't need as much to apply as with common chain lube it "sticks" very good too. Even in very dirty environment the chain stayed clean so far and we have quite a lot mud and sand here.
The only disatvantage ... you need to get rid of any chain oil or grease that was pured/sprayed on the chain before, otherwise it will not stick to the chain.
Just a guess ... as You have installed a Mikuni carb to the engine there might be an issue with the carb to intake manifold connection, ( had a fitting problem too while mounting a DellOrto instead of the Bing ). May be the connection might not be not enough thight... I would check the connection, not only when idling but too when rev. up, just to sure ...
I can't imagine they cast different legs so I'd assume it is the tubes that are a different length. As pointed out in the above post your frame looks correct for a 190 as does the bottom clamp. What I can't figure out is the 190 tubes shown in PSchrauber's picture as they don't look like they are from a 190... The knurled part looks as though it would sit below the bottom clamp but maybe it's just an illusion. The tube in the bottom picture looks more like a 190
...
To the fork that came from a 190 I can only relay on the previous owner, I never saw the bike just the pair of forks and yokes. For me the main points were the length of the stanchions and the internal parts. After a short play of questions and answers my needswereclarified. Who knows what happend with the bike and through how many hands it has went.
But the bottom picture shows one leg of my 199b, here I am confident and I have all ressources from the build in the end of 09 in 1981 until it was sold to me, (I' am the second owner).
There are a lot of nice places to ride in the Alpes. You will see spectacular views, climbs and downhills on trails which are demanding and sometimes scary when the route is just one meter wide and on one side it's going down really deep, and these "sections" sometimes seems never to end too...
I'am a great fan of riding there, in own experience do it the first time with some people which know the terrain and please don't do it alone. You really have to get used to it, the routes shown on maps doesn't tell you anything about the difficulty.
As a starter I would recommend:
Trial Area Alberto il Castellino in Brecia, Italy,
I personal have planned a trip to the Alpes in Piemont near the French border in September / October, which is a good time because most flocks of cows and goats that uses the mountains during summer time are then already guarded down, so there is no conflict with the farmers.
Then you have to know were it's allowed to ride and were not, it can be extremly costly if you meet the Policia Forrestale on the wrong ground.
If you still want to ride by your own and not use any professional guiding, have the bike road registered and insured (international green insurance card should be on hand, the police might ask), lights fitter, a working brake light, numberplate, speedo and mirror attached, ( this is for some of the trips provided by the ressources named above not necessary, look them and their offers up for more details).
Are you very sure about the size of the tires you need?
In Germany the bike has 2.50 x 19" front and 3.00 x 17" rear this size is available by Vee Rubber for the front and a manufactor in Asia were I have forgotten the name for the rear (front with trials knobbys and rear with a very trials like pattern).
The 50cc model was sold in some numbers in Germany, I guess at least 10 times as much then any 125 / 175 / 250 cc model, you saw this model quite often as a moped, ridden by teenagers on the street to school, ...
I habe tried some repair, a very expensive 2 component ( from Henkel ) which is used for car body repair, works nice but is black, of the look of the repaired plastic wouldn't ne so bad very recommended in my personal experience if you paint the plastic later.
The other method using heat and repair sticks/stripes works also very good, you only need a special blade for a torch- lamp or an electric solder unit as a welding device. But these method works only if you which kind of plastic you have and if there are repair stripes for this kind of plastic available. The method is to shape a V to both edges, then heat up both sides while simultaneously placing upheated and nearly fluid plastic from the stripe in between. It's like welding steel together, but only works with a couple of plastics not all kind. Should have a list of plastics which can be repaired with this method. And not to forget these sticks / stripes are available in some different colors too. The repair works pretty good as long as both plastic sorts the one of the part and the one of the stick match, otherwise the welded area will crack again easy.
Swm Gear Lever
in SWM
Posted
Original levers do show up in Italian and French craig lists. Then older Husqvarna levers from the 70's do also fit they are a little bit longer and too like the original ones with a foldable top. I once bought one from ebay on the US, price was lower then shipping... but got too an original one so I did not needed the Husky lever which I then gave away.
To be sure to get the right one ask for diameter of the hole for the shaft and the amount of teeth before buying.