pschrauber

Beside the handle bar and the fenders a concours look! I think you wan't to ride the bike so the fenders are pretty OK, to the handle bar it is much higher than most trials bars so I also guess it's a MX bar ... but if it fit's your riding style you might hang on with him.

Hi Chris, very good job and well done, the bike looks really sanitary so far! Are these enduro or MX pegs from the Frontera or Pursang you got for the bike, they seems to be a little bit longer than the standard Sherpa foot pegs in the photo you posted in #5?

To the fork that came from a 190 I can only relay on the previous owner, I never saw the bike just the pair of forks and yokes. For me the main points were the length of the stanchions and the internal parts. After a short play of questions and answers my needs were clarified. Who knows what happend with the bike and through how many hands it has went. But the bottom picture shows one leg of my 199b, here I am confident and I have all ressources from the build in the end of 09 in 1981 until it was sold to me, (I' am the second owner).

I have a pair of Betor forks for a SWM left, I could look up there too. The interna as I remember was pretty much the same to the fork of the 199b and 190, the newer forks from the 199b had just some more plastic parts instead of aluminium the fork of the 190 had. A comparison: upper pic's 190, pic below 199b: If you ask me get a used betor fork and rebuild that, if you need new hardchrome for the stanchions look up if they are not a little bit bend, I haven't got a used fork that was straight so far... You might even look up in France and Italy, I got mine fram France for a very good price.

My 199b have them in 560mm length both sides are identical, I then bought a pretty used fork pair from a 190 model, for rebuild and modification these were 560mm too. I hope this helps?

There are a lot of nice places to ride in the Alpes. You will see spectacular views, climbs and downhills on trails which are demanding and sometimes scary when the route is just one meter wide and on one side it's going down really deep, and these "sections" sometimes seems never to end too... I'am a great fan of riding there, in own experience do it the first time with some people which know the terrain and please don't do it alone. You really have to get used to it, the routes shown on maps doesn't tell you anything about the difficulty. As a starter I would recommend: Trial Area Alberto il Castellino in Brecia, Italy, www.albergoilcastellino.it Oasis Verde, in Prestine, Italy, www.hoteloasisverde.it Scuola Internazionale di Trial e Mountain Bike, in Valsesia, Italy www.scuolatrialmtbvalsesia.net I personal have planned a trip to the Alpes in Piemont near the French border in September / October, which is a good time because most flocks of cows and goats that uses the mountains during summer time are then already guarded down, so there is no conflict with the farmers. Then you have to know were it's allowed to ride and were not, it can be extremly costly if you meet the Policia Forrestale on the wrong ground. If you still want to ride by your own and not use any professional guiding, have the bike road registered and insured (international green insurance card should be on hand, the police might ask), lights fitter, a working brake light, numberplate, speedo and mirror attached, ( this is for some of the trips provided by the ressources named above not necessary, look them and their offers up for more details).

You find them here. http://www.motoswm.com/ You have to scroll to the bottom there are the links:

Mmmh ... may be only sold on the continent or out of production. Here an offer from German E-Bay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Enduro-Trail-Reifen-2-50-18-40L-Shinko-SR241-/310695201186?pt=Kraftrad_Reifen&hash=item4856e089a2 There are still 4 available as I see.

Cool, I have too my first "big" trials bike in the shed, also a TY... Anyway, I think you might look up Shinko SR241 (brand, type). This might be the right tire for your front wheel.

Are you very sure about the size of the tires you need? In Germany the bike has 2.50 x 19" front and 3.00 x 17" rear this size is available by Vee Rubber for the front and a manufactor in Asia were I have forgotten the name for the rear (front with trials knobbys and rear with a very trials like pattern). The 50cc model was sold in some numbers in Germany, I guess at least 10 times as much then any 125 / 175 / 250 cc model, you saw this model quite often as a moped, ridden by teenagers on the street to school, ...

Sounds interesting! What kind of tool do he use? I habe tried some repair, a very expensive 2 component ( from Henkel ) which is used for car body repair, works nice but is black, of the look of the repaired plastic wouldn't ne so bad very recommended in my personal experience if you paint the plastic later. The other method using heat and repair sticks/stripes works also very good, you only need a special blade for a torch- lamp or an electric solder unit as a welding device. But these method works only if you which kind of plastic you have and if there are repair stripes for this kind of plastic available. The method is to shape a V to both edges, then heat up both sides while simultaneously placing upheated and nearly fluid plastic from the stripe in between. It's like welding steel together, but only works with a couple of plastics not all kind. Should have a list of plastics which can be repaired with this method. And not to forget these sticks / stripes are available in some different colors too. The repair works pretty good as long as both plastic sorts the one of the part and the one of the stick match, otherwise the welded area will crack again easy.

Very nice find and # 1 in the serial number ! The outer tube shaft of the kicker might have been squeezed by one of the previous owners while mounting the kick start anvil. If you can find out the position of the imbalance... and then some force in the opposite direction ... (I would at least try...). I would too reinstall the o-ring between the inner and outer shaft, otherwise there will be steady dripping out some gear box oil.

The pins can have some cranny corrosion which have "glued" them to the cast aluminum. If you try to pull them out you might damage the aluminum holes. If you can't resist pulling them out heat up the aluminum anchor plate, aluminum expands at least three times more then steel. As they work as counter and pivot bearing I would just clean them from any debris and lap them with fine grinding line. A little bit of copper paste and they should work again.

I believe you are probably referring to Paul Snoek: "Bultaco 250 cc" Manteau, 1971 ISBN: 9022302806 ???

+1! I would too recommend to check the stanchions if they are still straight before assembling. Another hint, for getting the tubes better in / through the holes is to clean the surfaces of the holes of the fork clamps very well, (probably using steel wool). And if you want to use the upper nuts to pull the stanchions up in the upper yokes be sure you have the nuts at least two or better three threads turned in, (just to avoid pulling threads instead of the stanchion ... )

I have no idea for UK but: in France: http://shop.brp-rotax.fr/en/2-parts (communication only in French, you get sometimes not the spares you ordered, but with a call you can get it sorted) in Belgium, Andre Oger: http://www.rotaxsales.be/osc2nuke/index.php (haven't tried him yet) in Germany, Reinhard Hallat: http://www.rotax-deutschland.de/index.php/de/ (speaks German and some English, you have to call for parts and remind him to send them away after a week, as he is sometimes very busy (distracted))

It should be a Bing model 84, with 28mm bore. main 125, idle 40, needle GG1, slide 0

Mmmh 57 teeth, not commen ... I recently ordered a custom sprocket too Wüdo make custom sprockets in every teeth number in aluminium, numbers ad pattern for fasteners as requested, inner hole diameter too even a recess if in need. Last not least the would even mill a recess in the srocket if you need. The aluminium sprockets can too be anodized in many colors. http://www.wuedo.de/menu_main/index/pdf/kettenrad_fertigung_form.pdf Adress and contact data: http://www.wuedo.de/menu_main/index/index.html

Reallocating the condenser is not a real "must have" just replacing - if in need - works already very well, as most electrical parts don't get better with the age. A new condenser will be much more reliable then a over 30 year old unit that might fail just because it's got a little bit warmed up. Anyway looking forward to follow another Sherpa rebuild, thumps up !!!

There is a nice black and white Bultaco, stationed in the Netherlands. It's a PUMA rebuild. I believe as long as you do the "paint work" with care and in accordance with the overall appearance of a Bultaco Sherpa involving all parts in the design scheme you can't do it wrong. It seems to me that all good examples in different colors still have a typical Bultaco Sherpa recognition value because they use the original labels.

Isn't there one on display at E-Bay UK? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BETA-TR34-ORIGINAL-REAR-MUDGUARD-/201057082431?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2ecfef9c3f Sadly there are just now no fenders shown in Italian Craiglists, but they do show up, you need patience in this matter. The rear guard is sadly a little bit unique in his shape ... it's difficult to use something different that will fit to the seat and rear frame mounts, I haven't seen a good custom made solution yet, beside repairs with aluminium plates and rivets and soldered repairs were cracks were only minor.

There are sometimes rear original fenders used and even new at Italian craigslist's available, also replicas made out of glass fiber. Sadly due to the difficulties of parts availability even in Italy non of them are sold as a bargain as plastic parts got rare there too. Try www.kijiji.it or www.subito.it to name a few.

I would check the float and the float needle with the rubber top if it is attached right and sit proper and thight. Now in even better English I hope ...

# 01 While my Beta bike just struggled to run proper due to a lost teeth on the clutch compartment side, which could be solved by a donor base engine. Then again the moped went in OFF modus by the Motoplat ignition were the internal electronic components decided to fail after 5 minutes of running after # 01 was done. Which is remarkable embarrassing in my personal thoughts as there ate again some in deep going labor needed to get this problem fixed, I now - after swallowing this "frog" too have only one part left that hasn't been updated / refurbished / maintained very much as it works until now. It's the rear suspension, being a light rider I have some problems with standard shocks as they are mostly to stiff. The shock of the Beta - still the original first one - works estonishly well which can be just therefore the case it probably very well used. Anyway long story shortened a bit, what kind of replacement have you chosen for your Beta TR 34 and hoe good did the replacement shocks work. Very useful are replacements were springs can be choosen individually to match the riders weight? Thanks in advance !

Reminds me to the old days when there was a synthetic two stroke oil made under the Bultacos brand name available which could be used up to 1:100! It worked very well, now I use something between 1:70 - 1:75 as gasoline has got worse.