pschrauber

Mmmh ... may be only sold on the continent or out of production. Here an offer from German E-Bay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Enduro-Trail-Reifen-2-50-18-40L-Shinko-SR241-/310695201186?pt=Kraftrad_Reifen&hash=item4856e089a2 There are still 4 available as I see.

Cool, I have too my first "big" trials bike in the shed, also a TY... Anyway, I think you might look up Shinko SR241 (brand, type). This might be the right tire for your front wheel.

Are you very sure about the size of the tires you need? In Germany the bike has 2.50 x 19" front and 3.00 x 17" rear this size is available by Vee Rubber for the front and a manufactor in Asia were I have forgotten the name for the rear (front with trials knobbys and rear with a very trials like pattern). The 50cc model was sold in some numbers in Germany, I guess at least 10 times as much then any 125 / 175 / 250 cc model, you saw this model quite often as a moped, ridden by teenagers on the street to school, ...

Sounds interesting! What kind of tool do he use? I habe tried some repair, a very expensive 2 component ( from Henkel ) which is used for car body repair, works nice but is black, of the look of the repaired plastic wouldn't ne so bad very recommended in my personal experience if you paint the plastic later. The other method using heat and repair sticks/stripes works also very good, you only need a special blade for a torch- lamp or an electric solder unit as a welding device. But these method works only if you which kind of plastic you have and if there are repair stripes for this kind of plastic available. The method is to shape a V to both edges, then heat up both sides while simultaneously placing upheated and nearly fluid plastic from the stripe in between. It's like welding steel together, but only works with a couple of plastics not all kind. Should have a list of plastics which can be repaired with this method. And not to forget these sticks / stripes are available in some different colors too. The repair works pretty good as long as both plastic sorts the one of the part and the one of the stick match, otherwise the welded area will crack again easy.

Very nice find and # 1 in the serial number ! The outer tube shaft of the kicker might have been squeezed by one of the previous owners while mounting the kick start anvil. If you can find out the position of the imbalance... and then some force in the opposite direction ... (I would at least try...). I would too reinstall the o-ring between the inner and outer shaft, otherwise there will be steady dripping out some gear box oil.

The pins can have some cranny corrosion which have "glued" them to the cast aluminum. If you try to pull them out you might damage the aluminum holes. If you can't resist pulling them out heat up the aluminum anchor plate, aluminum expands at least three times more then steel. As they work as counter and pivot bearing I would just clean them from any debris and lap them with fine grinding line. A little bit of copper paste and they should work again.

I believe you are probably referring to Paul Snoek: "Bultaco 250 cc" Manteau, 1971 ISBN: 9022302806 ???

+1! I would too recommend to check the stanchions if they are still straight before assembling. Another hint, for getting the tubes better in / through the holes is to clean the surfaces of the holes of the fork clamps very well, (probably using steel wool). And if you want to use the upper nuts to pull the stanchions up in the upper yokes be sure you have the nuts at least two or better three threads turned in, (just to avoid pulling threads instead of the stanchion ... )

I have no idea for UK but: in France: http://shop.brp-rotax.fr/en/2-parts (communication only in French, you get sometimes not the spares you ordered, but with a call you can get it sorted) in Belgium, Andre Oger: http://www.rotaxsales.be/osc2nuke/index.php (haven't tried him yet) in Germany, Reinhard Hallat: http://www.rotax-deutschland.de/index.php/de/ (speaks German and some English, you have to call for parts and remind him to send them away after a week, as he is sometimes very busy (distracted))

It should be a Bing model 84, with 28mm bore. main 125, idle 40, needle GG1, slide 0

Mmmh 57 teeth, not commen ... I recently ordered a custom sprocket too Wüdo make custom sprockets in every teeth number in aluminium, numbers ad pattern for fasteners as requested, inner hole diameter too even a recess if in need. Last not least the would even mill a recess in the srocket if you need. The aluminium sprockets can too be anodized in many colors. http://www.wuedo.de/menu_main/index/pdf/kettenrad_fertigung_form.pdf Adress and contact data: http://www.wuedo.de/menu_main/index/index.html

Reallocating the condenser is not a real "must have" just replacing - if in need - works already very well, as most electrical parts don't get better with the age. A new condenser will be much more reliable then a over 30 year old unit that might fail just because it's got a little bit warmed up. Anyway looking forward to follow another Sherpa rebuild, thumps up !!!

There is a nice black and white Bultaco, stationed in the Netherlands. It's a PUMA rebuild. I believe as long as you do the "paint work" with care and in accordance with the overall appearance of a Bultaco Sherpa involving all parts in the design scheme you can't do it wrong. It seems to me that all good examples in different colors still have a typical Bultaco Sherpa recognition value because they use the original labels.

Isn't there one on display at E-Bay UK? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BETA-TR34-ORIGINAL-REAR-MUDGUARD-/201057082431?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2ecfef9c3f Sadly there are just now no fenders shown in Italian Craiglists, but they do show up, you need patience in this matter. The rear guard is sadly a little bit unique in his shape ... it's difficult to use something different that will fit to the seat and rear frame mounts, I haven't seen a good custom made solution yet, beside repairs with aluminium plates and rivets and soldered repairs were cracks were only minor.

There are sometimes rear original fenders used and even new at Italian craigslist's available, also replicas made out of glass fiber. Sadly due to the difficulties of parts availability even in Italy non of them are sold as a bargain as plastic parts got rare there too. Try www.kijiji.it or www.subito.it to name a few.

I would check the float and the float needle with the rubber top if it is attached right and sit proper and thight. Now in even better English I hope ...

# 01 While my Beta bike just struggled to run proper due to a lost teeth on the clutch compartment side, which could be solved by a donor base engine. Then again the moped went in OFF modus by the Motoplat ignition were the internal electronic components decided to fail after 5 minutes of running after # 01 was done. Which is remarkable embarrassing in my personal thoughts as there ate again some in deep going labor needed to get this problem fixed, I now - after swallowing this "frog" too have only one part left that hasn't been updated / refurbished / maintained very much as it works until now. It's the rear suspension, being a light rider I have some problems with standard shocks as they are mostly to stiff. The shock of the Beta - still the original first one - works estonishly well which can be just therefore the case it probably very well used. Anyway long story shortened a bit, what kind of replacement have you chosen for your Beta TR 34 and hoe good did the replacement shocks work. Very useful are replacements were springs can be choosen individually to match the riders weight? Thanks in advance !

Reminds me to the old days when there was a synthetic two stroke oil made under the Bultacos brand name available which could be used up to 1:100! It worked very well, now I use something between 1:70 - 1:75 as gasoline has got worse.

As stated I just got an OEM 159 air box for a member in the UK, as he asked me to get it for him. The box is original but a little bit used, the side panel is original and unused, the foam, grill and bolts are replicas ... The complete 159 airbox seems to be a little bit heavier then the 199b type? To the inner dimensions of the air box and so to the air flow I can't see an advantage on first spot if you ask me. I will compare it in weight in diameter as I have loose 199b airbox somewhere lying around ... (just can't remember in which cardbox). Surly it changes the apperance to a 199A or 199B when mounted to them and air filter change is much easier done too, so in case of service much better !!!

Sorry ... forgot to name the product: "Profi Dry Lube Motorcycle Cain Lube", it's available in the UK too: http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Profi_Dry_Lube_400ml__1223.html http://www.amazon.co.uk/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=PROFI%20DRY%20LUBE&index=automotive&search-type=ss Mmmh ... in D it's 15,50€ a 400ml can in UK sadly much more

I clean the chain completly with a degreaser, scrubbing with a brush until it's really clean, then I apply a teflon chain lube, works very nice and extends chain live time a lot, also wear of sprockets. As we have often very wet and muddy conditions these sticky grease and oils pull sand and debris very quick. The teflon stuff is dry and too water-repellent so the chain doesn' t get dirty. Chain wear is very little and the spray can is around 2€ expensivier then the standard sticky stuff. The additional money is good spend as you don't need to clean the chain as often now. Important is regular apply everyday before you start riding and before you use it you have to get rid of all oily components from previous oils and grease. When you apply the fluid there are some solvents inside that let the fluid creep everywere. The exess fluid I wipe off together with the dust which might be on the chain from last ride. Then you have to wait 5 minutes so the solvents have dissolved, the chain is then extremly slippery but completly dry.

Yep communication can be difficult with Spanish dealers, you might try IvanCirre, he has a well sorted online shop. Another good resource is Hans-Jörg Pfahler in Germany www.bultaco.de he can also get one for you and understand English.

Sadly Beta have not many parts of the air cooled mono series TR32 - TR 34 left. There are some parts between the TR 32 to TR 33 that are interchangeable. So at first I would in your situation call up a BETA Dealer about the parts you need, still some are available. For the remaining rest a good resource is in Europe the national E-Bay sections and Craiglists like LeBonCoin and Subito, especially in Italy, France, ... in this order. With the first TR34 model Jordi Tarres began his world champion winning series started in 1987 on a TR34, then again in 1989, (as 1988 was won by Michaud if I remember right) 1990 and 1991 on a Beta TR34, then 35 later Zero model, (which he - as I read - personal did not like so much!).

Well ... if the crank is sitting "loose" the bearings needs to be replaced, ... that's a pitty = much work. If you have to open the engine completely check the lower con-rod bearing too, if there is too to much play or the bearings might run "rough".