# 01 While my Beta bike just struggled to run proper due to a lost teeth on the clutch compartment side, which could be solved by a donor base engine.
Then again the moped went in OFF modus by the Motoplat ignition were the internal electronic components decided to fail after 5 minutes of running after # 01 was done. Which is remarkable embarrassing in my personal thoughts as there ate again some in deep going labor needed to get this problem fixed, I now - after swallowing this "frog" too have only one part left that hasn't been updated / refurbished / maintained very much as it works until now. It's the rear suspension, being a light rider I have some problems with standard shocks as they are mostly to stiff. The shock of the Beta - still the original first one - works estonishly well which can be just therefore the case it probably very well used.
Anyway long story shortened a bit, what kind of replacement have you chosen for your Beta TR 34 and hoe good did the replacement shocks work. Very useful are replacements were springs can be choosen individually to match the riders weight?
I can remember asking a lad about what mix he used and he just said 20 to one real quick and rode off. I watched him
at a refuel some time later and he put un mixed fuel in the tank then opened a new two stroke oil and just tipped some in with out even checking what he had tipped in he was off again. LOL.
Reminds me to the old days when there was a synthetic two stroke oil made under the Bultacos brand name available which could be used up to 1:100! It worked very well, now I use something between 1:70 - 1:75 as gasoline has got worse.
As stated I just got an OEM 159 air box for a member in the UK, as he asked me to get it for him. The box is original but a little bit used, the side panel is original and unused, the foam, grill and bolts are replicas ...
The complete 159 airbox seems to be a little bit heavier then the 199b type? To the inner dimensions of the air box and so to the air flow I can't see an advantage on first spot if you ask me. I will compare it in weight in diameter as I have loose 199b airbox somewhere lying around ... (just can't remember in which cardbox).
Surly it changes the apperance to a 199A or 199B when mounted to them and air filter change is much easier done too, so in case of service much better !!!
I clean the chain completly with a degreaser, scrubbing with a brush until it's really clean, then I apply a teflon chain lube,
works very nice and extends chain live time a lot, also wear of sprockets.
As we have often very wet and muddy conditions these sticky grease and oils pull sand and debris very quick.
The teflon stuff is dry and too water-repellent so the chain doesn' t get dirty.
Chain wear is very little and the spray can is around 2€ expensivier then the standard sticky stuff.
The additional money is good spend as you don't need to clean the chain as often now. Important is regular apply everyday before you start riding and before you use it you have to get rid of all oily components from previous oils and grease.
When you apply the fluid there are some solvents inside that let the fluid creep everywere. The exess fluid I wipe off together with the dust which might be on the chain from last ride. Then you have to wait 5 minutes so the solvents have dissolved, the chain is then extremly slippery but completly dry.
Yep communication can be difficult with Spanish dealers, you might try IvanCirre, he has a well sorted online shop. Another good resource is Hans-Jörg Pfahler in Germany www.bultaco.de he can also get one for you and understand English.
Sadly Beta have not many parts of the air cooled mono series TR32 - TR 34 left. There are some parts between the TR 32 to TR 33 that are interchangeable.
So at first I would in your situation call up a BETA Dealer about the parts you need, still some are available.
For the remaining rest a good resource is in Europe the national E-Bay sections and Craiglists like LeBonCoin and Subito, especially in Italy, France, ... in this order.
With the first TR34 model Jordi Tarres began his world champion winning series started in 1987 on a TR34, then again in 1989, (as 1988 was won by Michaud if I remember right)
1990 and 1991 on a Beta TR34, then 35 later Zero model, (which he - as I read - personal did not like so much!).
Well ... if the crank is sitting "loose" the bearings needs to be replaced, ... that's a pitty = much work. If you have to open the engine completely check the lower con-rod bearing too, if there is too to much play or the bearings might run "rough".
The points ign was said (by the factory) to provide hotter spark at low rpm - more suitable for trials. Whether that was true or just a cover in an attempt to justify the cheaper cost I don't know.
Very well said, there is no advance in using a electronic ignition for engines that run mostly in low rpm. The benefit powerwise is the dynamic timing of the ignition which first comes to effect at half throttle.
In low rpm the spark as said is even worse then with a points ignition. The remaining benefit is less maintaince, but to be honest you have to ride a lot before an ignition has to be readjusted or even replaced.
The ForumTY is closed ... it happend on 18.01.2014, just after the tenth anniversary, this was announced a couple of weeks before closing the site. The forum is now new established under the link:
I have tried pretty well every combination of the above, there isnt any that make it better, plenty though that make it worse.
Stick with the standard set up where possible.
When rebuilding the engine of my 320 we made the same experience, the original set up of clutch plates works best so far. Which doesnt mean that there isn't a way to improve it. I still believe that most force that has to be used for engaging the clutch is needed for the particular actuating ...
Haven't seen them one any trials bike from 1979 to now as Factory standard ( at least for bikes that were delivered were I live ). Maybe some enhanced aftermarket bar, anyway the construction might be in someones eyes a superior solution, I still wonder to which he is referring, (likewise with 42!)
The 175 is nice, even to ride, it's not very powerfull compared to the 350 and 250 but works and will do any job that has to be done during a classic trials.
I personal would replace the tank against the plastic model. I too believe in quite good technical order you will have most fun with 175cc Bultaco.
If the rider sits on the bike and the bike still moves foreward and he " helps" the engine buy pushing with his both frets it's two points if the rider haven't done any daps before. The wheel spindel rule I know from getting out of the section.
If the rider would stand and the bike is moving forward it will in my opinion in most cases result in a fraction of seconds in a five, at least in my experience in trials.
Looks indeed very nice and sorted. The " older" aor box is much better then the smaller one from the model 199A.
I would replace the gas throttle against an Amal or Domino unit both works nice and have a much better cable routing.
The only thing I can think of is mounting a mudflap between rear wheel and swing arm, which prevents mud clogging up the space in muddy conditions. It depends to your local weather conditions, were I live with much rain and a ground that is based mostly of clay and sand a must have, (likewise a good chain guard).
No. 1, can be welded and reshaped to original dimension, any good workshop can do this,
No. 2, well how is the bike running, still good, do the engine need a top job, if so check con rod and crank if these go rough then you have to split the engine and any other bearing and seal can be replaced,
No. 3, footpegs show up at E-Bay here and there,
No. 4, cover should be available as repilca in Spain,
No. 5, The rear shock looks contemporary and even to be the right one, but I don't think it's working spot on, you have to adjust the suspension to your weight anyway, so a replacement should be necessary,
N0. 6 take the fork apart, clean out the mess and debris inside, you might need some new oil seals and again check the spring if it suits to your weight,
No. 7, replaceable, also in Spain available,
No. 8, you need a wiring diagram,
No. 9, not sure here, at least a hose clamp I guess, you need a parts book too,
I would too look up the wheel bearings, bearing of steering stem, swing arm axle, and try to get a new kicker, look very bend on the photo?
Then I would take a look at the brakes, at least the rear brake arm is very unusual mounted.
Looks very sorted, if you ask me about my personal opinion I would leave the optical apperance of the bike as it is, the patina looks quite good.
I would firstly sort out any technical issues that might be there, then all get these parts back in original shape you need or want to have and then probably do a paint job, if there is any need ...
I have to admit my first restaurations were also complete dependig technic and paint,
but it turned out they were also costly and very time consuming, especially getting every
Yep a light activation of the rear brake while turning tight helps stabilize the bike, surplus the movement of the rear wheel is calmer ... (difficult to describe, but let's call it unwantend ignitions ...)
Nice looking bike , but only worth about £2000 in the real world ,is that a damaged magneto cover i see ???/
+1 I agree complete nice cosmetic work.
But a magneto cover with missing rear end, a rear break lever that rubs on the clutch side case. That the seller did not mention the missing fin at the cylinder, at least took a photo. The rear shock which are on the cheaper side. No papers or road registration?
The price is set very high were you can expect a 100% perfect and complete or competetive modded bike. In this price range even small issues lower the price, or as higher the price as pickier any buyer will and have to be.
With this named issues and without papers / history even go a bit lower around 2000 € which are around 1650 £.
Beta Tr34C Rear Mudguard
in Beta
Posted
There are sometimes rear original fenders used and even new at Italian craigslist's available, also replicas made out of glass fiber.
Sadly due to the difficulties of parts availability even in Italy non of them are sold as a bargain as plastic parts got rare there too.
Try www.kijiji.it or www.subito.it to name a few.