It's possible that one or both of the tubes have a bend, or one of the yokes has a bend, and you might need to experiment a bit to fit the tubes back into the yokes exactly the way they came out.
To work out what is wrong, fit only one tube to the bike at a time and see what you need to do to get it to move fully into the tapered hole.
+1!
I would too recommend to check the stanchions if they are still straight before assembling.
Another hint, for getting the tubes better in / through the holes is to clean the surfaces of the holes of the fork clamps very well, (probably using steel wool).
And if you want to use the upper nuts to pull the stanchions up in the upper yokes be sure you have the nuts at least two or better three threads turned in, (just to avoid pulling threads instead of the stanchion ... )
in France: http://shop.brp-rotax.fr/en/2-parts (communication only in French, you get sometimes not the spares you ordered, but with a call you can get it sorted)
in Germany, Reinhard Hallat: http://www.rotax-deutschland.de/index.php/de/ (speaks German and some English, you have to call for parts and remind him to send them away after a week, as he is sometimes very busy (distracted))
Mmmh 57 teeth, not commen ... I recently ordered a custom sprocket too Wüdo make custom sprockets in every teeth number in aluminium, numbers ad pattern for fasteners as requested, inner hole diameter too even a recess if in need. Last not least the would even mill a recess in the srocket if you need. The aluminium sprockets can too be anodized in many colors.
Reallocating the condenser is not a real "must have" just replacing - if in need - works already very well, as most electrical parts don't get better with the age. A new condenser will be much more reliable then a over 30 year old unit that might fail just because it's got a little bit warmed up.
Anyway looking forward to follow another Sherpa rebuild, thumps up !!!
There is a nice black and white Bultaco, stationed in the Netherlands. It's a PUMA rebuild.
I believe as long as you do the "paint work" withcareandinaccordance with theoverall appearance of a Bultaco Sherpa involving all parts in the design scheme you can't do it wrong. It seems to me that all good examples in different colors still have a typical Bultaco Sherpa recognition value because they use the originallabels.
# 01 While my Beta bike just struggled to run proper due to a lost teeth on the clutch compartment side, which could be solved by a donor base engine.
Then again the moped went in OFF modus by the Motoplat ignition were the internal electronic components decided to fail after 5 minutes of running after # 01 was done. Which is remarkable embarrassing in my personal thoughts as there ate again some in deep going labor needed to get this problem fixed, I now - after swallowing this "frog" too have only one part left that hasn't been updated / refurbished / maintained very much as it works until now. It's the rear suspension, being a light rider I have some problems with standard shocks as they are mostly to stiff. The shock of the Beta - still the original first one - works estonishly well which can be just therefore the case it probably very well used.
Anyway long story shortened a bit, what kind of replacement have you chosen for your Beta TR 34 and hoe good did the replacement shocks work. Very useful are replacements were springs can be choosen individually to match the riders weight?
I can remember asking a lad about what mix he used and he just said 20 to one real quick and rode off. I watched him
at a refuel some time later and he put un mixed fuel in the tank then opened a new two stroke oil and just tipped some in with out even checking what he had tipped in he was off again. LOL.
Reminds me to the old days when there was a synthetic two stroke oil made under the Bultacos brand name available which could be used up to 1:100! It worked very well, now I use something between 1:70 - 1:75 as gasoline has got worse.
As stated I just got an OEM 159 air box for a member in the UK, as he asked me to get it for him. The box is original but a little bit used, the side panel is original and unused, the foam, grill and bolts are replicas ...
The complete 159 airbox seems to be a little bit heavier then the 199b type? To the inner dimensions of the air box and so to the air flow I can't see an advantage on first spot if you ask me. I will compare it in weight in diameter as I have loose 199b airbox somewhere lying around ... (just can't remember in which cardbox).
Surly it changes the apperance to a 199A or 199B when mounted to them and air filter change is much easier done too, so in case of service much better !!!
I clean the chain completly with a degreaser, scrubbing with a brush until it's really clean, then I apply a teflon chain lube,
works very nice and extends chain live time a lot, also wear of sprockets.
As we have often very wet and muddy conditions these sticky grease and oils pull sand and debris very quick.
The teflon stuff is dry and too water-repellent so the chain doesn' t get dirty.
Chain wear is very little and the spray can is around 2€ expensivier then the standard sticky stuff.
The additional money is good spend as you don't need to clean the chain as often now. Important is regular apply everyday before you start riding and before you use it you have to get rid of all oily components from previous oils and grease.
When you apply the fluid there are some solvents inside that let the fluid creep everywere. The exess fluid I wipe off together with the dust which might be on the chain from last ride. Then you have to wait 5 minutes so the solvents have dissolved, the chain is then extremly slippery but completly dry.
Yep communication can be difficult with Spanish dealers, you might try IvanCirre, he has a well sorted online shop. Another good resource is Hans-Jörg Pfahler in Germany www.bultaco.de he can also get one for you and understand English.
Sadly Beta have not many parts of the air cooled mono series TR32 - TR 34 left. There are some parts between the TR 32 to TR 33 that are interchangeable.
So at first I would in your situation call up a BETA Dealer about the parts you need, still some are available.
For the remaining rest a good resource is in Europe the national E-Bay sections and Craiglists like LeBonCoin and Subito, especially in Italy, France, ... in this order.
With the first TR34 model Jordi Tarres began his world champion winning series started in 1987 on a TR34, then again in 1989, (as 1988 was won by Michaud if I remember right)
1990 and 1991 on a Beta TR34, then 35 later Zero model, (which he - as I read - personal did not like so much!).
Well ... if the crank is sitting "loose" the bearings needs to be replaced, ... that's a pitty = much work. If you have to open the engine completely check the lower con-rod bearing too, if there is too to much play or the bearings might run "rough".
The points ign was said (by the factory) to provide hotter spark at low rpm - more suitable for trials. Whether that was true or just a cover in an attempt to justify the cheaper cost I don't know.
Very well said, there is no advance in using a electronic ignition for engines that run mostly in low rpm. The benefit powerwise is the dynamic timing of the ignition which first comes to effect at half throttle.
In low rpm the spark as said is even worse then with a points ignition. The remaining benefit is less maintaince, but to be honest you have to ride a lot before an ignition has to be readjusted or even replaced.
The ForumTY is closed ... it happend on 18.01.2014, just after the tenth anniversary, this was announced a couple of weeks before closing the site. The forum is now new established under the link:
I have tried pretty well every combination of the above, there isnt any that make it better, plenty though that make it worse.
Stick with the standard set up where possible.
When rebuilding the engine of my 320 we made the same experience, the original set up of clutch plates works best so far. Which doesnt mean that there isn't a way to improve it. I still believe that most force that has to be used for engaging the clutch is needed for the particular actuating ...
Haven't seen them one any trials bike from 1979 to now as Factory standard ( at least for bikes that were delivered were I live ). Maybe some enhanced aftermarket bar, anyway the construction might be in someones eyes a superior solution, I still wonder to which he is referring, (likewise with 42!)
The 175 is nice, even to ride, it's not very powerfull compared to the 350 and 250 but works and will do any job that has to be done during a classic trials.
I personal would replace the tank against the plastic model. I too believe in quite good technical order you will have most fun with 175cc Bultaco.
Novel Bultaco 350
in Bultaco
Posted
I believe you are probably referring to Paul Snoek:
"Bultaco 250 cc"
Manteau, 1971
ISBN: 9022302806 ???