If the rider sits on the bike and the bike still moves foreward and he " helps" the engine buy pushing with his both frets it's two points if the rider haven't done any daps before. The wheel spindel rule I know from getting out of the section.
If the rider would stand and the bike is moving forward it will in my opinion in most cases result in a fraction of seconds in a five, at least in my experience in trials.
Looks indeed very nice and sorted. The " older" aor box is much better then the smaller one from the model 199A.
I would replace the gas throttle against an Amal or Domino unit both works nice and have a much better cable routing.
The only thing I can think of is mounting a mudflap between rear wheel and swing arm, which prevents mud clogging up the space in muddy conditions. It depends to your local weather conditions, were I live with much rain and a ground that is based mostly of clay and sand a must have, (likewise a good chain guard).
No. 1, can be welded and reshaped to original dimension, any good workshop can do this,
No. 2, well how is the bike running, still good, do the engine need a top job, if so check con rod and crank if these go rough then you have to split the engine and any other bearing and seal can be replaced,
No. 3, footpegs show up at E-Bay here and there,
No. 4, cover should be available as repilca in Spain,
No. 5, The rear shock looks contemporary and even to be the right one, but I don't think it's working spot on, you have to adjust the suspension to your weight anyway, so a replacement should be necessary,
N0. 6 take the fork apart, clean out the mess and debris inside, you might need some new oil seals and again check the spring if it suits to your weight,
No. 7, replaceable, also in Spain available,
No. 8, you need a wiring diagram,
No. 9, not sure here, at least a hose clamp I guess, you need a parts book too,
I would too look up the wheel bearings, bearing of steering stem, swing arm axle, and try to get a new kicker, look very bend on the photo?
Then I would take a look at the brakes, at least the rear brake arm is very unusual mounted.
Looks very sorted, if you ask me about my personal opinion I would leave the optical apperance of the bike as it is, the patina looks quite good.
I would firstly sort out any technical issues that might be there, then all get these parts back in original shape you need or want to have and then probably do a paint job, if there is any need ...
I have to admit my first restaurations were also complete dependig technic and paint,
but it turned out they were also costly and very time consuming, especially getting every
Yep a light activation of the rear brake while turning tight helps stabilize the bike, surplus the movement of the rear wheel is calmer ... (difficult to describe, but let's call it unwantend ignitions ...)
Nice looking bike , but only worth about £2000 in the real world ,is that a damaged magneto cover i see ???/
+1 I agree complete nice cosmetic work.
But a magneto cover with missing rear end, a rear break lever that rubs on the clutch side case. That the seller did not mention the missing fin at the cylinder, at least took a photo. The rear shock which are on the cheaper side. No papers or road registration?
The price is set very high were you can expect a 100% perfect and complete or competetive modded bike. In this price range even small issues lower the price, or as higher the price as pickier any buyer will and have to be.
With this named issues and without papers / history even go a bit lower around 2000 € which are around 1650 £.
As stated, and a knife(or anything else) is not worth beans if you cannot use it! That one is a workhorse, use and enjoy it to the limit! That is probably why it found you.
I agree 100% but not for 800$ ! Here I personal would have a problem this far to much for a workhorse.
Some of my relatives comes from the very north were knifes a not only part of daylily use but also a must have as personal social being.
Anyway costs and the use as workhorse are - as already mentioned - too different in this case. May be the collecting worth is higher but then you can't use it, just lay it on old sculls and show it around...
I personal like good knives for any work in the forest or fishing too. I also appreciate very much hand made knives and axes.
But can't see the craftsmanship in this particular knife, the knife sheath looks well done, but knife handle and the blade have
the look of industrial mass production.
For this high price I would expect something more individual and were much more craftsmanship is seen.
Here I refer to Gränsfors Bruks axes, (using steel of old Rheinmetall 120mm canon pipes from Leo II and Abrams), and Puuko's or Saami knifes which are easy to maintain and very durable, the ones sold as workhorse might not look extremely pretty (more rough) in their appearance (using handles of birch wood and some rough brass plates at both ends of the handle, also often lacks any finger protection) but the craftmanship of being made individually by hand is very good visible, and they are sooo practical ...
For the price (800$) you would get a small and bigger axe and knife ...
The Campera is more a Enduro bike, sounds to be an older model, a 1967 175cc which was very popular when it came out.
I personal would use good ( not the best), 2- stroke oil, a synthetic - mineral mix is just fine. A mixture of 1:50 or 2% should be OK if engine isn't behind wear, keeps the engine cleaner and exhaust too. I' am using to my Moped, made in 1964 with an Puch 50cc motor 2% instead of 4%, the bikes run great and is used in on off throttle modus.
lf you are just puttering around using very little throttel you might go to even leaner mixture and also to a little bit hotter plug. Sadly the plugs nowadays don't cover the same heat range as back in the days.
The same with petrol, stuff used before much better then now, but two stroke oil has changed to the better.
Double lip is OK, to the seals, You haven't mentioned the manufactur or the diameters of the seals, especially outer diameter and height.
The numbers should match to the standard seals then everything is all right in my personal view.
I had some trouble too with parts where I just ask if they fit to the bike brand and model. I learn "t my lessons here, now I ask the dimensions and manufactor of the parts before I order them, worked very well so far ...
As an aside have you ever put a 175 frame next to a 350? there is quite a difference in size, (note swinging arm in picture), top tube is 25mm smaller in length and lower too.
The frame of the 175cc model is in fact a little "tinier" in the dimension of the tubes then the of the later 350cc like the 199A, ..., but not much. The main dimension looks like they are pretty identical, this model is more or less a downtuned 250cc model 182 / 190 as the 175cc Sherpa use the same attachment parts like the bigger displacements bikes.
Look up if you have the push mechanism of he clutch lever right adjusted.
May be you have too much "free space" / play between the push rod and the clutch level shaft. You can adjust the space on the clutch side when you remove the plastic tap that sit's in the clutch case just in the center of the clutch. There is a adjusting bolt and locknut situated. The play should be around 2 - 3mm, not less! but not more.
Another commen problem is a push rod which was adjusted with too little play, then the ends of the rod should have got marks as they get in touch between each other without the clutch is engaged. There can be friction marks at the end of the clutch push rod, the push plate and even in the balls itself. Then you have to replace them.
BTW:
Please leave the spring on the shaft lever, as this spring is responsible for leaving the clutch shaft in the initial position and then you won't have friction between the push components of the clutch. Some people believe it's a nice trick to make the clutch action lighter when you take this spring away. And it's true without this spring the clutch action is a little bit lighter, but sadly without spring you will wear out the clutch push mechanism very quick, therefore - in my opinion - this tweak is nuts.
Easiest way in my experience is a garden house, the older Sherpas did not have any rubber to protect the swing arm or chain, my solution is seen here:
Cut off around 20 - 30 cm (*) of the garden hose, then cut the hose in longitudinal direction, wrap it around the swing arm and fasten it with a hose clamp,
see in the picture below, (the yellow plastic):
(*)
The house have to be so long that you can fasten the hose clamb behind the reinforcement plates.
I had used chopped levers for a while, (as I had the same thought's once about levers) and it worked when everything where going where you wanted to ride ... . I found levers that where chopped and with ball ends, (see picture).
But when things got accidently different as thought and suppose and you really need the brake or clutch very quick
then it can happen that you are grasping at nothing...
Now I use the standard levers again, it was a nice try out but in my personal experience not again ...
I don't use any torque wrench for mounting the plug, my rule of thump, when the engine is cold:
If the plug is unused = new and is fittet with a sealing ring, insert and thighten with hand, then add less then 90° with a wrench.
Very Important: if the plug was used and is fittet with a sealing ring, insert and thighten with hand, then add less then 30° with a wrench.
Anyway most people do thigthen them too much, especially when they remount used plugs because they forget that the sealing ring will be compressed when the spark plug is mounted the first time, this compression only happens one time (first time), then not any more.
Torque settings depends to the material of the head and which kind of plug you use, I believe you have a spark plug with a flat seat and sealing ring:
10 - 15 Nm for size M 10 x 1,00 in an aluminium head,
15 - 25 Nm for size M 12 x 1,25 in an aluminium head,
20 - 30 Nm for size M 14 x 1,25 in an aluminium head,
20 - 35 Nm for size M 18 x 1,50 in an aluminium head.
If the threads of the plug are greased take 30% less!
Torque settings for iron heads are diffferent.
Torque settings for spark plugs with conical seat and without sealing ring are again different.
Yes the HFS suspension works fantastic, I have this system installed to one of the bikes, ( the 'older' with two cartridges). And my Bul have the Magical springs with adjustable spacer, this works also very well in combination with the fork oil they sell.
Both are an improvement to the standard spring. If you too replace the double fork seal against a modern single one it really transform the fork, keeps the front wheel better to the ground and 'in line' on bumpy ground. Also helpful in thigh curves at least I think so as the front wheel does not push so much outwards now...
The HFS system has more possibilities to adjust and the fork can soak up even smallest bumps. But it took a while for me to find the right pressure.
Very cool, again a Helmholtz resonater muffler, which was very commen back in the early eighties. A system of different tubes and recesses combined with a sequence of different volume. Each of them is responible to reduce noise of a cretain wavelength. Technical the Helmholtz resonators works as a resonance absorber, this princip is still used in building acoustics.
Disadvantage of this design is that it exerts a certain constant back pressure as the exhaust gases are led through a maze, which costs power. But the engine runs very evenly so.
Had forgot here the ball fix, you use the lever and the balls from the Enduro model or the later Aprilia TX and you will get a longer arm together with lighter clutch engagement:
Otherwise you can also look up a newer side case, there is recently one in fleabay available, but I don't know if he will fit?
I thing the springs are shot, something that can occur after 30 + x years. Depending your budget I would look up used springs, new ones, aftermarket springs with progressive spring rate, ...
Another trick for good clutch action is to use a cable with a big inner cable diameter and teflon as grease" or change the balls and the actuator at this very special clutch mechanism inside the side cover of the engine.
Depending the price I have no answer, a pair of aftermarkt fork springs is compared to the Expert system around 50% cheaper in my country.
The HFS system, (when proper installed and you found the right oil and pressure), works very well, really progressive and has less stiction. I'am very pleased.
(Using the older HFS system from 2012 where you have two cartridges, like inside the Enduro models).
I have replaced the fork caps against valve closure caps as with the others it can happen that you will loose air if you haven't fastened the lock very thight,
(at least it happend too me).
I also recommend a good air pump which works very precise, the one HFS has in their inventory is made to fit very good.
The spring and the distance washer used for alternate the spring rate are from Girling shocks.
The shock body is something different, to alternate the pressure of the spring back in the day with a notch and a steel ring was used by the former White Power shocks from the Netherlands, they had this system back then.
So I believe you have a hybrid made of two different manufactures.
If you need something new as Shocks, you can use tricky Fournales shocks to the Italjet, Berlatier used them too in GP,
They show up used at French Craig Lists (LeBonCoin) and are repairable or get a new pair (they are sadly very costly).
Marking!
in Bultaco
Posted
If the rider sits on the bike and the bike still moves foreward and he " helps" the engine buy pushing with his both frets it's two points if the rider haven't done any daps before. The wheel spindel rule I know from getting out of the section.
If the rider would stand and the bike is moving forward it will in my opinion in most cases result in a fraction of seconds in a five, at least in my experience in trials.