As stated, and a knife(or anything else) is not worth beans if you cannot use it! That one is a workhorse, use and enjoy it to the limit! That is probably why it found you.
I agree 100% but not for 800$ ! Here I personal would have a problem this far to much for a workhorse.
Some of my relatives comes from the very north were knifes a not only part of daylily use but also a must have as personal social being.
Anyway costs and the use as workhorse are - as already mentioned - too different in this case. May be the collecting worth is higher but then you can't use it, just lay it on old sculls and show it around...
I personal like good knives for any work in the forest or fishing too. I also appreciate very much hand made knives and axes.
But can't see the craftsmanship in this particular knife, the knife sheath looks well done, but knife handle and the blade have
the look of industrial mass production.
For this high price I would expect something more individual and were much more craftsmanship is seen.
Here I refer to Gränsfors Bruks axes, (using steel of old Rheinmetall 120mm canon pipes from Leo II and Abrams), and Puuko's or Saami knifes which are easy to maintain and very durable, the ones sold as workhorse might not look extremely pretty (more rough) in their appearance (using handles of birch wood and some rough brass plates at both ends of the handle, also often lacks any finger protection) but the craftmanship of being made individually by hand is very good visible, and they are sooo practical ...
For the price (800$) you would get a small and bigger axe and knife ...
The Campera is more a Enduro bike, sounds to be an older model, a 1967 175cc which was very popular when it came out.
I personal would use good ( not the best), 2- stroke oil, a synthetic - mineral mix is just fine. A mixture of 1:50 or 2% should be OK if engine isn't behind wear, keeps the engine cleaner and exhaust too. I' am using to my Moped, made in 1964 with an Puch 50cc motor 2% instead of 4%, the bikes run great and is used in on off throttle modus.
lf you are just puttering around using very little throttel you might go to even leaner mixture and also to a little bit hotter plug. Sadly the plugs nowadays don't cover the same heat range as back in the days.
The same with petrol, stuff used before much better then now, but two stroke oil has changed to the better.
Double lip is OK, to the seals, You haven't mentioned the manufactur or the diameters of the seals, especially outer diameter and height.
The numbers should match to the standard seals then everything is all right in my personal view.
I had some trouble too with parts where I just ask if they fit to the bike brand and model. I learn "t my lessons here, now I ask the dimensions and manufactor of the parts before I order them, worked very well so far ...
As an aside have you ever put a 175 frame next to a 350? there is quite a difference in size, (note swinging arm in picture), top tube is 25mm smaller in length and lower too.
The frame of the 175cc model is in fact a little "tinier" in the dimension of the tubes then the of the later 350cc like the 199A, ..., but not much. The main dimension looks like they are pretty identical, this model is more or less a downtuned 250cc model 182 / 190 as the 175cc Sherpa use the same attachment parts like the bigger displacements bikes.
Look up if you have the push mechanism of he clutch lever right adjusted.
May be you have too much "free space" / play between the push rod and the clutch level shaft. You can adjust the space on the clutch side when you remove the plastic tap that sit's in the clutch case just in the center of the clutch. There is a adjusting bolt and locknut situated. The play should be around 2 - 3mm, not less! but not more.
Another commen problem is a push rod which was adjusted with too little play, then the ends of the rod should have got marks as they get in touch between each other without the clutch is engaged. There can be friction marks at the end of the clutch push rod, the push plate and even in the balls itself. Then you have to replace them.
BTW:
Please leave the spring on the shaft lever, as this spring is responsible for leaving the clutch shaft in the initial position and then you won't have friction between the push components of the clutch. Some people believe it's a nice trick to make the clutch action lighter when you take this spring away. And it's true without this spring the clutch action is a little bit lighter, but sadly without spring you will wear out the clutch push mechanism very quick, therefore - in my opinion - this tweak is nuts.
Easiest way in my experience is a garden house, the older Sherpas did not have any rubber to protect the swing arm or chain, my solution is seen here:
Cut off around 20 - 30 cm (*) of the garden hose, then cut the hose in longitudinal direction, wrap it around the swing arm and fasten it with a hose clamp,
see in the picture below, (the yellow plastic):
(*)
The house have to be so long that you can fasten the hose clamb behind the reinforcement plates.
I had used chopped levers for a while, (as I had the same thought's once about levers) and it worked when everything where going where you wanted to ride ... . I found levers that where chopped and with ball ends, (see picture).
But when things got accidently different as thought and suppose and you really need the brake or clutch very quick
then it can happen that you are grasping at nothing...
Now I use the standard levers again, it was a nice try out but in my personal experience not again ...
I don't use any torque wrench for mounting the plug, my rule of thump, when the engine is cold:
If the plug is unused = new and is fittet with a sealing ring, insert and thighten with hand, then add less then 90° with a wrench.
Very Important: if the plug was used and is fittet with a sealing ring, insert and thighten with hand, then add less then 30° with a wrench.
Anyway most people do thigthen them too much, especially when they remount used plugs because they forget that the sealing ring will be compressed when the spark plug is mounted the first time, this compression only happens one time (first time), then not any more.
Torque settings depends to the material of the head and which kind of plug you use, I believe you have a spark plug with a flat seat and sealing ring:
10 - 15 Nm for size M 10 x 1,00 in an aluminium head,
15 - 25 Nm for size M 12 x 1,25 in an aluminium head,
20 - 30 Nm for size M 14 x 1,25 in an aluminium head,
20 - 35 Nm for size M 18 x 1,50 in an aluminium head.
If the threads of the plug are greased take 30% less!
Torque settings for iron heads are diffferent.
Torque settings for spark plugs with conical seat and without sealing ring are again different.
Yes the HFS suspension works fantastic, I have this system installed to one of the bikes, ( the 'older' with two cartridges). And my Bul have the Magical springs with adjustable spacer, this works also very well in combination with the fork oil they sell.
Both are an improvement to the standard spring. If you too replace the double fork seal against a modern single one it really transform the fork, keeps the front wheel better to the ground and 'in line' on bumpy ground. Also helpful in thigh curves at least I think so as the front wheel does not push so much outwards now...
The HFS system has more possibilities to adjust and the fork can soak up even smallest bumps. But it took a while for me to find the right pressure.
Very cool, again a Helmholtz resonater muffler, which was very commen back in the early eighties. A system of different tubes and recesses combined with a sequence of different volume. Each of them is responible to reduce noise of a cretain wavelength. Technical the Helmholtz resonators works as a resonance absorber, this princip is still used in building acoustics.
Disadvantage of this design is that it exerts a certain constant back pressure as the exhaust gases are led through a maze, which costs power. But the engine runs very evenly so.
Had forgot here the ball fix, you use the lever and the balls from the Enduro model or the later Aprilia TX and you will get a longer arm together with lighter clutch engagement:
Otherwise you can also look up a newer side case, there is recently one in fleabay available, but I don't know if he will fit?
I thing the springs are shot, something that can occur after 30 + x years. Depending your budget I would look up used springs, new ones, aftermarket springs with progressive spring rate, ...
Another trick for good clutch action is to use a cable with a big inner cable diameter and teflon as grease" or change the balls and the actuator at this very special clutch mechanism inside the side cover of the engine.
Depending the price I have no answer, a pair of aftermarkt fork springs is compared to the Expert system around 50% cheaper in my country.
The HFS system, (when proper installed and you found the right oil and pressure), works very well, really progressive and has less stiction. I'am very pleased.
(Using the older HFS system from 2012 where you have two cartridges, like inside the Enduro models).
I have replaced the fork caps against valve closure caps as with the others it can happen that you will loose air if you haven't fastened the lock very thight,
(at least it happend too me).
I also recommend a good air pump which works very precise, the one HFS has in their inventory is made to fit very good.
The spring and the distance washer used for alternate the spring rate are from Girling shocks.
The shock body is something different, to alternate the pressure of the spring back in the day with a notch and a steel ring was used by the former White Power shocks from the Netherlands, they had this system back then.
So I believe you have a hybrid made of two different manufactures.
If you need something new as Shocks, you can use tricky Fournales shocks to the Italjet, Berlatier used them too in GP,
They show up used at French Craig Lists (LeBonCoin) and are repairable or get a new pair (they are sadly very costly).
There is indeed harmless fuel available, but - in own experience - very expensive*. Probably when more people buy it get's cheaper?
*(at least Aspen racing which is around 3,20 € / liter)
Anyway to decrease the weight about some gram you can mount a plastic bottle underneath the engine between the case and the bottle punch round two holes in it and line the overflow lines of the carb inside, this do works well.
I have no problem with the weight limitation and to any cheating, if the bikes will be parked in the parc fermé right after technical examination there would not be many changes to fuzz around with weights.
But the "light" trials chains have smaller outer dimensions so you can't combine a "light" 520 chain with a "normal" one.
Most chain manufacturers have the dimensions on their website...
Yep, therefore I just mentioned the roller dimension, the pitch and the inner diameter, as these are dimensions are to any 520 identical. The outer Diameter -as you said- could be efiierent, or it could be a complete half link chain, ...
The stuff from outlawstrials are just swiss made SIGG bottles (found here: https://www.sigg.com/en_deat/ ) where they sewed some fabric around ... and they take a lot of Money for them, (if you wan't to hear my opinion).
These SIGG bottles are very good but more for own personal drinks, using them for petrol or gasoline is wasted money.
What about "Fuel Friend" bottles, I have two of them (1,00 L size each) and they are very handy to use. They come in different sizes, have strap's if you want to attach them somewhere to the bike or just store them in your bag as I do. They are very solid and the lock doesn't leak any gasoline even if the tank is under pressure or laid in the sun.
Yep cleaning the carb and all the jets can improve the overall performance very much. The heavy flyweight and the "soft" acceleration is also very useful when the ground is slippery, anyway steps and logs need forward looking riding.
Good cluth cables are essantial, you can get one from Martin or Venhill, the Venhill should have the special sleeve with an oils seal which fits to the clutch case when I remember right ... in reality of my experience you don't need the clutch so much on the SWM ...
But the "light" trials chains have smaller outer dimensions so you can't combine a "light" 520 chain with a "normal" one.
The Knife Of Knives.
in Anything goes
Posted · Edited by pschrauber
I agree 100% but not for 800$ ! Here I personal would have a problem this far to much for a workhorse.
Some of my relatives comes from the very north were knifes a not only part of daylily use but also a must have as personal social being.
Anyway costs and the use as workhorse are - as already mentioned - too different in this case. May be the collecting worth is higher but then you can't use it, just lay it on old sculls and show it around...