pschrauber

Yes the HFS suspension works fantastic, I have this system installed to one of the bikes, ( the 'older' with two cartridges). And my Bul have the Magical springs with adjustable spacer, this works also very well in combination with the fork oil they sell. Both are an improvement to the standard spring. If you too replace the double fork seal against a modern single one it really transform the fork, keeps the front wheel better to the ground and 'in line' on bumpy ground. Also helpful in thigh curves at least I think so as the front wheel does not push so much outwards now... The HFS system has more possibilities to adjust and the fork can soak up even smallest bumps. But it took a while for me to find the right pressure.

Very cool, again a Helmholtz resonater muffler, which was very commen back in the early eighties. A system of different tubes and recesses combined with a sequence of different volume. Each of them is responible to reduce noise of a cretain wavelength. Technical the Helmholtz resonators works as a resonance absorber, this princip is still used in building acoustics. Disadvantage of this design is that it exerts a certain constant back pressure as the exhaust gases are led through a maze, which costs power. But the engine runs very evenly so.

Had forgot here the ball fix, you use the lever and the balls from the Enduro model or the later Aprilia TX and you will get a longer arm together with lighter clutch engagement: Otherwise you can also look up a newer side case, there is recently one in fleabay available, but I don't know if he will fit? The lever is available as spare part: then you just need 3 12mm balls and some screws.

I thing the springs are shot, something that can occur after 30 + x years. Depending your budget I would look up used springs, new ones, aftermarket springs with progressive spring rate, ... Another trick for good clutch action is to use a cable with a big inner cable diameter and teflon as grease" or change the balls and the actuator at this very special clutch mechanism inside the side cover of the engine.

Depending the price I have no answer, a pair of aftermarkt fork springs is compared to the Expert system around 50% cheaper in my country. The HFS system, (when proper installed and you found the right oil and pressure), works very well, really progressive and has less stiction. I'am very pleased. (Using the older HFS system from 2012 where you have two cartridges, like inside the Enduro models). I have replaced the fork caps against valve closure caps as with the others it can happen that you will loose air if you haven't fastened the lock very thight, (at least it happend too me). I also recommend a good air pump which works very precise, the one HFS has in their inventory is made to fit very good.

The spring and the distance washer used for alternate the spring rate are from Girling shocks. The shock body is something different, to alternate the pressure of the spring back in the day with a notch and a steel ring was used by the former White Power shocks from the Netherlands, they had this system back then. So I believe you have a hybrid made of two different manufactures. If you need something new as Shocks, you can use tricky Fournales shocks to the Italjet, Berlatier used them too in GP, They show up used at French Craig Lists (LeBonCoin) and are repairable or get a new pair (they are sadly very costly).

There is indeed harmless fuel available, but - in own experience - very expensive*. Probably when more people buy it get's cheaper? *(at least Aspen racing which is around 3,20 € / liter) Anyway to decrease the weight about some gram you can mount a plastic bottle underneath the engine between the case and the bottle punch round two holes in it and line the overflow lines of the carb inside, this do works well. I have no problem with the weight limitation and to any cheating, if the bikes will be parked in the parc fermé right after technical examination there would not be many changes to fuzz around with weights.

Yep, therefore I just mentioned the roller dimension, the pitch and the inner diameter, as these are dimensions are to any 520 identical. The outer Diameter -as you said- could be efiierent, or it could be a complete half link chain, ...

Have you looked up the chain which is mounted to your bike? Often the manufactory has stamped their logo on the links, second a 520 chain do have dimensions, measure them and compare: 520 = (5/8 x 1/4 x 10,16). roller: 10,16 mm, pitch chain: 15,88 mm = 5/8", chain width inner dimension: 6,35 mm = 1/4"

The stuff from outlawstrials are just swiss made SIGG bottles (found here: https://www.sigg.com/en_deat/ ) where they sewed some fabric around ... and they take a lot of Money for them, (if you wan't to hear my opinion). These SIGG bottles are very good but more for own personal drinks, using them for petrol or gasoline is wasted money.

What about "Fuel Friend" bottles, I have two of them (1,00 L size each) and they are very handy to use. They come in different sizes, have strap's if you want to attach them somewhere to the bike or just store them in your bag as I do. They are very solid and the lock doesn't leak any gasoline even if the tank is under pressure or laid in the sun. Here is the website: http://www.fuelfriend.de/

Yep cleaning the carb and all the jets can improve the overall performance very much. The heavy flyweight and the "soft" acceleration is also very useful when the ground is slippery, anyway steps and logs need forward looking riding. Good cluth cables are essantial, you can get one from Martin or Venhill, the Venhill should have the special sleeve with an oils seal which fits to the clutch case when I remember right ... in reality of my experience you don't need the clutch so much on the SWM ...

The conversion for the balls has to be done inside the clutch side case: The inner lever has to be replaced against one that can take up the bigger balls. Then the ground level of the side case has to be deepened a little bit by milling so the bigger balls will fit. I sadly just have a photo how it looked before.

OK now I understand ... but my SWM from 1980 seems to be too old, I don't have this extra lever upon the cylinder.

That sounds really interesting, I have modified the actuator from these tiny 6mm balls to fit 12mm ones which is an improvement but it's still not a one finger clutch. Please tell us more about your clutch conversion.

This is a remarkable conclusion, trials at national and international level has got very professional. Less failures are made, you participate when you are good enough. It were the less good riders and there attempts to clear the obstacle, there was mud and splatting water, draining bikes rides using the centipede way to clear sections, this time is over and the fun watching the event too.

Seems to be that 267 790 is sold out again, even in France as brp-rotax and Atelier bmz don't sell them anymore. As I know the replica manifold batch was made in summer 2012 in Italy, it should have been them: http://www.swm-moto.org/ You might ask them, if they have one left.

Are the inlet manifolds Martin had sold out? There was an Italian resource, ... if in need I can look up?

My Mrs. opinion in this particular matter is as following: Everything that belongs to MY personal hobby has to be done by myself. As we have a washing mashine even on the continent filling the unit, pouring some powders inside and adjusting two knobs and after a while pulling out fresh smelling clothes and hanging them up isn't soo bad. ...

Try wash cycle for wool and without spinning, not more than 30 °, only little washing agent but much water, additional to get it clean without turning yellow use descaling agent for the tap water. As softer the water is as better is the cleaning effect and as less lime is in the water as less the change the clothes will getting yellow.

It's not so important where you buy the screws and nuts! Important is the strength of the fasteners, be sure to get the screws and nuts with the right strength. I would suggest at least in DIN 267-3 / DIN EN ISO 898-1: 10.9 or SAE J-429: Grade 7 or buy them as original spare parts from your bike dealer. EDIT: And "Loctite" them too!

I' am too rebuilding a Majesty from scratch, collecting Majesty and transforming a standard TY, (this is a long term project (I have no rush)). In own experience ... there are not so many differences in assembling the parts, the brackets to a standard TY the Majesty ... match here very well. There will be some differences in set up ... but these details can be solved later, first you will certainly getting the boxed parts mounted together to a bike I think. Very helpful are a good workshop manual and a TY part list which are easy to get and these good workshop books for the TY will do the work very good. From there I would start in your situation. The more detail related questions will come then and might be discussed here.

The Michelin X-light is still one of the very best you can get. The Italian Golden Tyre type GT 355 Gecko came out recently and as I heard is very sticky (probably will wear as fast ..s as he is sticky?)

For the fuel line: get a spiral spring which is some mm bigger in diameter then the fuel hose and thread the spring over the hose. Then slightly squeeze one or two windings of the spring so it holds on place. For cleaning the mid section of the exhaust: You have to cut it open then take out any remaining insulation, clean up the inner walls and hole tube, (sand blasting works very well), mount new exhaust insulation and reweld the mid pipe.

Very weird, in Belgium there I got no answer, but in France, here http://www.brp.com/fr-fr/homepage I got parts, but communication is only one way ... so I personal still recommend Reinhard Hallat how is the only one from where I got answers to my questions by e-mail phone and personal. Well he is doing unfortunately a lot of traveling therefore often not at home so orders over him take a while. Fortunately for me, he lives nearby where I live and I can and had visited him which might helped a lot for ordering and technical advises Hallat was (and here my praise upon him engine wise) the only one from where I got a complete crankshaft repair kit with connecting rod and first oversize piston for my SWM.