There is indeed harmless fuel available, but - in own experience - very expensive*. Probably when more people buy it get's cheaper?
*(at least Aspen racing which is around 3,20 € / liter)
Anyway to decrease the weight about some gram you can mount a plastic bottle underneath the engine between the case and the bottle punch round two holes in it and line the overflow lines of the carb inside, this do works well.
I have no problem with the weight limitation and to any cheating, if the bikes will be parked in the parc fermé right after technical examination there would not be many changes to fuzz around with weights.
But the "light" trials chains have smaller outer dimensions so you can't combine a "light" 520 chain with a "normal" one.
Most chain manufacturers have the dimensions on their website...
Yep, therefore I just mentioned the roller dimension, the pitch and the inner diameter, as these are dimensions are to any 520 identical. The outer Diameter -as you said- could be efiierent, or it could be a complete half link chain, ...
The stuff from outlawstrials are just swiss made SIGG bottles (found here: https://www.sigg.com/en_deat/ ) where they sewed some fabric around ... and they take a lot of Money for them, (if you wan't to hear my opinion).
These SIGG bottles are very good but more for own personal drinks, using them for petrol or gasoline is wasted money.
What about "Fuel Friend" bottles, I have two of them (1,00 L size each) and they are very handy to use. They come in different sizes, have strap's if you want to attach them somewhere to the bike or just store them in your bag as I do. They are very solid and the lock doesn't leak any gasoline even if the tank is under pressure or laid in the sun.
Yep cleaning the carb and all the jets can improve the overall performance very much. The heavy flyweight and the "soft" acceleration is also very useful when the ground is slippery, anyway steps and logs need forward looking riding.
Good cluth cables are essantial, you can get one from Martin or Venhill, the Venhill should have the special sleeve with an oils seal which fits to the clutch case when I remember right ... in reality of my experience you don't need the clutch so much on the SWM ...
Got the clutch down to 1 finger operation,Put on a new set of Dunlops.
That sounds really interesting, I have modified the actuator from these tiny 6mm balls to fit 12mm ones which is an improvement but it's still not a one finger clutch.
All the things about trials that appealed to me as a kid 50 yrs ago and probably many other kids, no longer appeal to the kid's of today.
Talking bout my generation, the sport just clicked, we had more available land, less hassle putting on events, and more people willing to put on event's, it was a lot of fun but it's gone.
Less young riders coming in and more old riders getting passed it isn't a result of the rules, the world has changed.
This is a remarkable conclusion, trials at national and international level has got very professional. Less failures are made, you participate when you are good enough. It were the less good riders and there attempts to clear the obstacle, there was mud and splatting water, draining bikes rides using the centipede way to clear sections, this time is over and the fun watching the event too.
womans work !!!!!! not modern man , only ride bikes ,try womens own ??
My Mrs. opinion in this particular matter is as following: Everything that belongs to MY personal hobby has to be done by myself. As we have a washing mashine even on the continent filling the unit, pouring some powders inside and adjusting two knobs and after a while pulling out fresh smelling clothes and hanging them up isn't soo bad. ...
Try wash cycle for wool and without spinning, not more than 30 °, only little washing agent but much water, additional to get it clean without turning yellow use descaling agent for the tap water. As softer the water is as better is the cleaning effect and as less lime is in the water as less the change the clothes will getting yellow.
I' am too rebuilding a Majesty from scratch, collecting Majesty and transforming a standard TY, (this is a long term project (I have no rush)).
In own experience ... there are not so many differences in assembling the parts, the brackets to a standard TY the Majesty ... match here very well. There will be some differences in set up ... but these details can be solved later, first you will certainly getting the boxed parts mounted together to a bike I think.
Very helpful are a good workshop manual and a TY part list which are easy to get and
these good workshop books for the TY will do the work very good.
From there I would start in your situation. The more detail related questions will come then and might be discussed here.
get a spiral spring which is some mm bigger in diameter then the fuel hose and thread the spring over the hose.
Then slightly squeeze one or two windings of the spring so it holds on place.
For cleaning the mid section of the exhaust:
You have to cut it open then take out any remaining insulation, clean up the inner walls and hole tube, (sand blasting works very well), mount new exhaust insulation and reweld the mid pipe.
Very weird, in Belgium there I got no answer, but in France, here http://www.brp.com/fr-fr/homepage I got parts, but communication is only one way ... so I personal still recommend Reinhard Hallat how is the only one from where I got answers to my questions by e-mail phone and personal.
Well he is doing unfortunately a lot of traveling therefore often not at home so orders over him take a while. Fortunately for me, he lives nearby where I live and I can and had visited him which might helped a lot for ordering and technical advises
Hallat was (and here my praise upon him engine wise) the only one from where I got a complete crankshaft repair kit with connecting rod and first oversize piston for my SWM.
Yes you are right, I mixed up Len Weed with Lane Leavitt, Len Weed was the co author who was involved in the book of Lane Leavitt and Bernie Schreiber.
To the other book which is sadly sold out, it has a story behind it.
It starts with the German magazine Trialsport in 1976. This magazine was "founded" and published by Felix Krahnstöver.
The magazine was published monthly and was only available by subscription, Krahnstöver did all by himself, writing, editing and layout.
There were some other editors and reporters too that added articles from events, motorcycle brands, technical tests, etc.
And already with issue Nr. 01 he started a series named "Wie werde ich deutscher Meister" = "How to get German champion (in trials)". I believe being national wise so famous as he was already the fifth times German trials champion back then there was a kind of demand whereupon explained his success. This article series went on over the next five years it paused for a year or so, (haven't got through the magazines) and then was partly repeated were there was progress in trials riding. These articles where then composed, checked and edited to the named book (Trial. Akrobatik auf 2 Rädern. Ein Lehrbuch) .
It covers good hints with their physical relationships while riding and too what happens if you do it wrong, also technical tips ....
If you really need protection for the side cases of the engine, then add some cm/inches on both side and use thicker aluminium (around 5mm), but as thicker you choose the plate as more difficulties you will have to bend the plate properly to the underside of the frame.
In my experience you will also much more often stuck when gliding over obstacles with a wider bash plate.
I took a 3mm thick Aluminium plate and cutted it out to the outer diameter of the low frame section where the perforated steel plate is mounted. (You can make a template out of cardbord which is the easiest way to get the right dimension).
Then I glued a 5mm cellular rubber to the aluminium plate drilled 4 holes, countersunk them and mounted the "lower" aluminium bash plate to the upper perforated steelplate with countersunk screws.
My 175cc with the "second" bash plate.
This works very well, the cellular rubber soften Impacts and keep some tension to the mounts, the 2nd aluminium plate will then also not rattle around.
- buy the bike with registration papers, stay away of any bikes that don't have registration papers if there are other bikes available that have these documents.
- set up a contract with full address of the seller and buyer, bike model, year and frame und engine number. When the bike does not have registration papers the contract should have the copys of the personal identity cards or pass port of the seller and the buyer attached. Copy's can be made in forehand and the copy's can be compared with the original documents during the trade.
If the seller or the buyer does not agree, don't buy or sell.
If this does sound too 'complicate' for you, keep in mind as a buyer that it will be much easier for you to sell the bike again after a couple of years, a bike with a documented history is more in worth and easier to sell. Also - in case of getting stolen - it is easier to give evidence about the ownership to the police.
Best way to protect your bike for getting stolen is beside to lock it inside the garage or house to get it road registrated and insured. The costs are due to the low engine capacity and power very low. A registrated bike is not so interesting for burglars as any issue with the ownership can be tracked by the frame number.
- Never buy a bike where the frame number is not visible or might be modified.
Yep as the above posting's said, it's awful, you can't take big breaths and movability in all is limited, riding trials very unconformtable.
As less you do during the healing as faster it will heal, btw. a big contusion / bruise have nearly the same effect.
Don't use painkiller just for getting rid of the symptoms, these can worsen healing a lot, it does hurt because the body want's from you to do as little as possible with this "body section".
But the "light" trials chains have smaller outer dimensions so you can't combine a "light" 520 chain with a "normal" one.
Fim Minimum Bike Weight Increase 2014? What?
in World Championship Chat
Posted · Edited by pschrauber
There is indeed harmless fuel available, but - in own experience - very expensive*. Probably when more people buy it get's cheaper?
*(at least Aspen racing which is around 3,20 € / liter)
Anyway to decrease the weight about some gram you can mount a plastic bottle underneath the engine between the case and the bottle punch round two holes in it and line the overflow lines of the carb inside, this do works well.
I have no problem with the weight limitation and to any cheating, if the bikes will be parked in the parc fermé right after technical examination there would not be many changes to fuzz around with weights.