pschrauber

My Mrs. opinion in this particular matter is as following: Everything that belongs to MY personal hobby has to be done by myself. As we have a washing mashine even on the continent filling the unit, pouring some powders inside and adjusting two knobs and after a while pulling out fresh smelling clothes and hanging them up isn't soo bad. ...

Try wash cycle for wool and without spinning, not more than 30 °, only little washing agent but much water, additional to get it clean without turning yellow use descaling agent for the tap water. As softer the water is as better is the cleaning effect and as less lime is in the water as less the change the clothes will getting yellow.

It's not so important where you buy the screws and nuts! Important is the strength of the fasteners, be sure to get the screws and nuts with the right strength. I would suggest at least in DIN 267-3 / DIN EN ISO 898-1: 10.9 or SAE J-429: Grade 7 or buy them as original spare parts from your bike dealer. EDIT: And "Loctite" them too!

I' am too rebuilding a Majesty from scratch, collecting Majesty and transforming a standard TY, (this is a long term project (I have no rush)). In own experience ... there are not so many differences in assembling the parts, the brackets to a standard TY the Majesty ... match here very well. There will be some differences in set up ... but these details can be solved later, first you will certainly getting the boxed parts mounted together to a bike I think. Very helpful are a good workshop manual and a TY part list which are easy to get and these good workshop books for the TY will do the work very good. From there I would start in your situation. The more detail related questions will come then and might be discussed here.

The Michelin X-light is still one of the very best you can get. The Italian Golden Tyre type GT 355 Gecko came out recently and as I heard is very sticky (probably will wear as fast ..s as he is sticky?)

For the fuel line: get a spiral spring which is some mm bigger in diameter then the fuel hose and thread the spring over the hose. Then slightly squeeze one or two windings of the spring so it holds on place. For cleaning the mid section of the exhaust: You have to cut it open then take out any remaining insulation, clean up the inner walls and hole tube, (sand blasting works very well), mount new exhaust insulation and reweld the mid pipe.

Very weird, in Belgium there I got no answer, but in France, here http://www.brp.com/fr-fr/homepage I got parts, but communication is only one way ... so I personal still recommend Reinhard Hallat how is the only one from where I got answers to my questions by e-mail phone and personal. Well he is doing unfortunately a lot of traveling therefore often not at home so orders over him take a while. Fortunately for me, he lives nearby where I live and I can and had visited him which might helped a lot for ordering and technical advises Hallat was (and here my praise upon him engine wise) the only one from where I got a complete crankshaft repair kit with connecting rod and first oversize piston for my SWM.

Yes you are right, I mixed up Len Weed with Lane Leavitt, Len Weed was the co author who was involved in the book of Lane Leavitt and Bernie Schreiber. To the other book which is sadly sold out, it has a story behind it. It starts with the German magazine Trialsport in 1976. This magazine was "founded" and published by Felix Krahnstöver. The magazine was published monthly and was only available by subscription, Krahnstöver did all by himself, writing, editing and layout. There were some other editors and reporters too that added articles from events, motorcycle brands, technical tests, etc. And already with issue Nr. 01 he started a series named "Wie werde ich deutscher Meister" = "How to get German champion (in trials)". I believe being national wise so famous as he was already the fifth times German trials champion back then there was a kind of demand whereupon explained his success. This article series went on over the next five years it paused for a year or so, (haven't got through the magazines) and then was partly repeated were there was progress in trials riding. These articles where then composed, checked and edited to the named book (Trial. Akrobatik auf 2 Rädern. Ein Lehrbuch) . It covers good hints with their physical relationships while riding and too what happens if you do it wrong, also technical tips .... You find a link with some reduced extracts here: https://lh3.googleus...-no/WWDM-Ak.jpg (there a three pages in a row, and three rows) From up left to down right: 1st: Title page of the first issue of "Trialsport" from 1976 2nd: Very early issue (extract) of "Wie werde ich Deutscher Meister" how to lift the rear wheel (in 1976!) 3nd: Title page of the book "Trial. Akrobatik auf 2 Rädern. Ein Lehrbuch". 4th: Influence of gravity 5th: - 7th: Operation of the throttle grip (extract) 8th: - 9th: Use of the front brake, (extract) The Trialsport magazine is still available the journal was handed over to Hans Greiner, who no publish the magazine.

The books from Lane Leavitt: Motorcycle Trials: Techniques & Training form 1978 The book from Bernie Schreiber which was co editied by Lane Leavitt Observed Trials from 1983 are good ones, (There is no very big difference in these books as both had Lane Leavitt as author and the lineage is unmistakable when you know both books. Both books show up here and there for a good price. Best book so far is Felix Krahnstöver and Harry Niemann: Trial. Akrobatik auf 2 Rädern. Ein Lehrbuch from 1995 (Trial. Acrobatics on two wheels. A textbook) This is, (in my personal opinion), the best textbook for trialsriding so far, it covers too modern riding technic's. Sadly very rare.

If you really need protection for the side cases of the engine, then add some cm/inches on both side and use thicker aluminium (around 5mm), but as thicker you choose the plate as more difficulties you will have to bend the plate properly to the underside of the frame. In my experience you will also much more often stuck when gliding over obstacles with a wider bash plate.

I took a 3mm thick Aluminium plate and cutted it out to the outer diameter of the low frame section where the perforated steel plate is mounted. (You can make a template out of cardbord which is the easiest way to get the right dimension). Then I glued a 5mm cellular rubber to the aluminium plate drilled 4 holes, countersunk them and mounted the "lower" aluminium bash plate to the upper perforated steelplate with countersunk screws. My 175cc with the "second" bash plate. This works very well, the cellular rubber soften Impacts and keep some tension to the mounts, the 2nd aluminium plate will then also not rattle around.

Best was to avoid any problems in my experience: - buy the bike with registration papers, stay away of any bikes that don't have registration papers if there are other bikes available that have these documents. - set up a contract with full address of the seller and buyer, bike model, year and frame und engine number. When the bike does not have registration papers the contract should have the copys of the personal identity cards or pass port of the seller and the buyer attached. Copy's can be made in forehand and the copy's can be compared with the original documents during the trade. If the seller or the buyer does not agree, don't buy or sell. If this does sound too 'complicate' for you, keep in mind as a buyer that it will be much easier for you to sell the bike again after a couple of years, a bike with a documented history is more in worth and easier to sell. Also - in case of getting stolen - it is easier to give evidence about the ownership to the police. Best way to protect your bike for getting stolen is beside to lock it inside the garage or house to get it road registrated and insured. The costs are due to the low engine capacity and power very low. A registrated bike is not so interesting for burglars as any issue with the ownership can be tracked by the frame number. - Never buy a bike where the frame number is not visible or might be modified.

Yep as the above posting's said, it's awful, you can't take big breaths and movability in all is limited, riding trials very unconformtable. As less you do during the healing as faster it will heal, btw. a big contusion / bruise have nearly the same effect. Don't use painkiller just for getting rid of the symptoms, these can worsen healing a lot, it does hurt because the body want's from you to do as little as possible with this "body section". Took two month for me getting trouble free again.

Are you sure that you have mounted the main bearings perfectly to the crank shaft? For mounting the assembly I prefer the heating / freezing method: - first mounting the kick start shaft and return spring, as we all know ..., - then put the left sidecase in the oven and heat the assembly up to around 150 - 180° - you can too put the crank assembly in a plastic bag and then in the fridge. Now mount the crankshaft in the left side case this should work out very easy, the crank bearing should pop in with ease, and when sitting completely in the left engine case everything should be OK. Mount the reminding shafts and gears, ... Now mount the right engine case, heat the case up to 180° and be sure to mount it parallel already from the beginning, some soft hits with a wooden or plastic hammer and the case should slip on. When the case has cooled down check if all shafts and the crank runs free.

I admit I also have my SWM modified and have used as a "template" the SWM of Gilles he have used in 1981. So Betor legs in Marzocchi clamps, clutch with actuator of the Enduro and 12mm balls and too slightly longer shocks back but I did not cut off the rear loop of the frame or changed the original footrests as I never modify anything which i can not bring back to original status. As stated b40rt I am too very pleased so far with the original Dell Orto- When the rubber parts like the manifolds and the curly part between airbox and carb are fresh and crack free and the engine rebuilded the combo works very well for me. But I'am too not at all a world class rider ...

D slide is one side flat the other round an invention of our days sadly not back then. OK then you use a 28mm and not a 30mm or 32mm carb as posted in # 01#? Of course the jetting depends to the hight where you are, the season and the particular engine anyway it's good to get a clue where to start, the rest is fine balancing.

So the OKO is a flat slide carb, then the carb would be inadmissible in classic Trials Events where I live, (These carbs are only allowed in the rule of grandfathering, when they where installed already as original part to the bike). A flatslide carb is certainly better then a round slide carb due to better gas flow inside, Dell'Orto have one too the VHST model ... Anyway interesting, can you write down the spec's of the jets and needle you mounted as the diameter is so much different to the original mounted Dell'Orto?

The one steel ball is already attached to the actuator, what I guess is that in the past someone have replaced or modified the clutch rod and at the end it was too short. Instead of using the right length an additional roller tube was used, maybe there is still a roller ball inside as the ball is difficult to get out when the clutch assemly inside the clutch basket is completly assembled. I your clutch is not working as well as it should and you have found pieces that obviously do not belong to the bike You should take the clutch apart and look through the assembled parts. Here the clutch asembly of the engine, (from a Sherpa not a Alpina engine, but the are pretty much the same): Here what you should find when you take the clutch apart: The cluth rod #15 in the sketch, The roller ball # 44 in the sketch, The mushroom shaped press rod end with the roller bearing which actuates the outer clutch plate # 8 and # 43 in the sketch. Get a parts book from your Alpina and then ask Bultaco UK if they can deliver you the parts, I would also suggest to replace # 8 and # 43 as this parts wear pretty much as well, here my used clutch rod, ball, mushroom style press rod and roller bearing which I have replaced:

Very clean indeed, I wouldn't have blasted the inner sides of the cases, the bearing seats or the support of the cylinder head. But maybe I'am a little bit too cautious?

There once was a good article about steering angles and frame dimensions in German Trialsport. The article is already a couple of years old but it was considered that an angle of 73° would be fine. See in your personal messenger.

Mmmh ... isn't the dwell time much more depending to the rpm of the engine? I have been told - so far - that the coil is set / prepared for charging within the maximum revolution speed of the engine here can be a "bottle neck". The capacitator on the old fashioned magneto ignition is for reducing the sparc / arc bow between the points so they don't wear too fast. The charging time of the condensor which is used is much faster as the same model is used also for SWM Enduro and MX models where the max rpm of theses bikes compared to the SWM Trials bike are around 2000 rpm higher.

As I know are the Points and the contact/Points runner subject to wear. Every time when the contacts/points are opened again, the current flow will tear off producing a small electric arc. This arc will wear the contact surfaces, the distance of the points will increase. But also the contact runner, - he is responsible for opening the contact -, wear off in the course of operation, so that the "breaker-contact distance" will be decreases with the time. With the gap of 0.04mm the system is balanced out, and readjustements have to be made in terms around 5000km for a street bike. If the opening of the points/contacts is adjusted longer then there will be more wear to the contact/points runner but less to the points/contacts and vice a verse. So you will have to readjust the ignition more often and too replacing the points. (As I understood ... I'am not an engineer in engine technics)

As I know the model series 199, 199-A and 199-B where numbered through. With the model A and the later B they just continued to count further. That's why the model B and A have such high serial numbers which doesn't match the really produced numbers of bikes.

That sounds cool, should be very collectable? But the number of digits you wrote down maybe have to be corrected and you wrote down 6? The serial numbers starts normally with the number of the model, here it would be 199 and then followed by 5 digits, so the first bike should have the number: 19900001?

Looks individual and cool too !!!