As I know are the Points and the contact/Points runner subject to wear.
Every time when the contacts/points are opened again, the current flow will tear off producing a small electric arc.
This arc will wear the contact surfaces, the distance of the points will increase.
But also the contact runner, - he is responsible for opening the contact -, wear off in the course of operation, so that the "breaker-contact distance" will be decreases with the time.
With the gap of 0.04mm the system is balanced out, and readjustements have to be made in terms around 5000km for a street bike.
If the opening of the points/contacts is adjusted longer then there will be more wear to the contact/points runner but less to the points/contacts and vice a verse. So you will have to readjust the ignition more often and too replacing the points.
(As I understood ... I'am not an engineer in engine technics)
As I know the model series 199, 199-A and 199-B where numbered through. With the model A and the later B they just continued to count further. That's why the model B and A have such high serial numbers which doesn't match the really produced numbers of bikes.
The serial numbers starts normally with the number of the model, here it would be 199 and then followed by 5 digits, so the first bike should have the number:
There are one or two that keeps the gears between the gear shafts "aligned" the "spacer" has an edge too, the on my Bultaco was warn out and I had to refabricate the part as it wasn't available anymore. I have pic's of it but I'am not at home yet, first on Friday ... .
Anyway if the gear shafts aren't very well alinged shifting can be difficult and setted gears can " hop" out.
I use it too, I started using it first for the brush cutter and then for the chain saws, then too for the lawn mover and now also for the bikes. It's very good as it doesn't get old, it can be stored in years even with big temperatur differences. - 30 deg. or + 30 deg. Over years doesn't change the "petrol" even premix will be as good when mixed a couple of years ago.
My problem is the price standard Aspen isn't cheap and only has 91 ROZ, for the bikes I need at least 95 ROZ and for my KTM I need at least 98 ROZ.
Aspen+ has 95 ROZ but you have to rejet the carb because the engine will run to lean when before being used with standard petrol.
There ia Aspen Racing available which has 100 ROZ, this works very fine with any bike engine so far as I van tell, the price ... well ... is around three times as much as standard gasoline,and it's not so easy to get it.
Known issues so far, none, no problem with plastic tanks, aluminium and aluminium magnesium or steel. I once had an issue with a rubber tube which was dissolved by the gasoline I think, the rubber got extremly soft like chewing gum. After replacing the gas rubber tune no problems so far.
I have a replica glasfiber gas tank here I also had no issues.
Next time you get in the situation for taking off the rotor you can look up if there are some holes (Sacklochbohrungen) just on one side, may in different diameter and only a couple of mm in depth. If so the rotor is fine balanced.
I have not seen any marks of fine balancing on the rotor of my bike so the rotor was not fine balanced at least for my bike.
If you want to get the rotor fine balanced let it be done if you not have the machinery to do so. I personal would wait until the next crank rebuild. Then the complete unit crank, rotor and flywheel can be balanced in one step. This would not increase the cost of the labor only a tiny little bit and the engine will run smoother too.
There where both models/brands installed Femsa and Motoplat and to add a little confusion too, both where different in weight. I think it depended to which country
the bike was delivered.
Just now on vacancy and with limited access I have photos of both rotor brands even for both models, (250 and 350cc). The Motoplat ignition are some 100 gramm heavier. when I remember right.
Mmmh, I personal like the 11 / 39 gearing best, might be not very slow but the pic-up = acceleration is "OK" as the engine doesn't pick up revs very fast in need.
And of course you won't hit any stone as easy with a smaller sprocket at the rear.
Certainly in thight sections you might be in the situation to pull the clutch ...
Anyway the Sherpa likes some speed then the bike rides easier in my obeservation likewise the frame setup isn't build for these very thight section when it goes straight ahead over rocks, stones, trees and steps the bike performes quite well, also in soft and slippery conditions.
But it's your riding style and your bike so you have to figure out by yourself what is more important.
Try Sigma, they sells also in the US and have bicycle speedometers that are also illuminated and work very good, you can buy them with wire or without, (wireless is a benefit in my opinion).
I have Sigma bicycle speedometer as road legal equipment for my KTM and use Sigma speedos too for my bicycles, they are waterproof, very reliable, easy to install and much more accurate then the standard cable driven speedos.
Road registration for a 500cc KTM 2-stroke (former ISDT bike) with Sigma speedometer:
The Sigma BC 1609 is with backlight but wire version,
The Sigma BC 1609 STS is also with backlight and wireless.
There can be used SAE 10 - 5 (older recommandations) from the mid seventies or SAE 30 (newer recommandations) from the beginning 80's,
in pesonal experience ATF works too very good. (As thinner the oil as easier the clutch will slip).
For the gear box where the transmission is situated SAE 75 - 95 works fine, Castrol EPX does the Job really well you can use either SAE 80 - 90 or even SAE 85 - 140
Yep condensator might be the problem. To check the condensator turn the rotor until the points are open, then connect the condenser to a multi meter, adjust measuring resistance (20M Ohm), when the multi meter is connected the resistance should rise up.
If the resistance goes down or a short circuit is shown the condensator is faulty / broken.
Yes the left foot brake assembly works much better as it doesn't have to deal with the cable bow and can be actuated with a steel rod.
But you have to get used to the flipped operating elements. Here I have my (personal) problem I can't switch with ease as my other bikes have the brake paddle on the right side.
Therefore I am still using the brake set up on the right side. To avoid as much flex as possible got these cables which are NOS / 100% clones and work very good, (the upper one with the brake light switch integrated works even better then the lower one where the brake light switch is detached).
While rebuilding the bike I tried out different Bultaco levers for the foot brake, the black painted earlier ones are much fragiler as the later polished ones:
But you need different spacers for the shaft to mount them proper. (Sorry for the bad capture).
I manage to bent the black one with ease where the polished one is really solid and very resistant. To the foot pegs: I am still using the original foot peg position on my Bultaco and even on the SWM (The SWM also with the tiny original rests, I would otherwise have the problem of a not well placed front footbrake position on the SWM).
If you can get used to the left hand pedal stay with it.
To fit a cable you need to put a cable stop on the frame above where the pedal locates and another on the swingarm. It's a fiddly job. If you search this forum you'll find a similar topic with pictures
The Venhill rear brake cables are rubbish and have too much flex in them. I've ridden on one leg using the rear brake as the footrest with all my weight on it and I don't think it even moved the shoes into contact with the drum, never mind slowed it down. All that seems to happen is that it takes up flex and then stretches.The brake works perfectly using a left hand lever / rod so the cable appears to be at fault.
The orginal Bultaco cable had a stronger inner cable and the outer cable had a solid bend where it bends onto the swingarm. This helped keep the cable from flexing when using the brake. The venhill cable doesn't have the solid bend, so not only is the inner cable too weak, the whole cable flexes when the brake is applied. I asked Venhill to make me a copy of the original, using an original as a patern but they won't do it.... !!
I looked at making a cross shaft, like Aprilia, Fantic, Armstrong, but don't think it is possible because there is too much in the way to get the shaft from one side to another.
You can get these cables still on the continent, even with integrated brake light switch (or without). With the very strong inner cable around 2,5 - 3mm inner diameter, oiler and the solid bend where it is attached to the swing arm. Not too expensive: around 35 Euros when I remember right.
Don`t do it, gear lever on left= every other time you kickstart bike you knock it into gear (becomes a real pain in the a***).brake lever on right bends every time you hit a rock!. brake lever on right = naff all braking power,combined with the wonderfull bultaco front brake!.stick with what you have.
Somewhat exaggerated. The left foot brake is really better then the right one, but for the gear lever it's up what you are mostly used too.
<p><p>Femsa model 92.20-010 with 3,4 kg will fit definitely, this model is installed to my 199b from the factory, (my Bul was produced for the Italian market in August 1981).
The lighter flywheel sounds too, truly will eliminate the little break you have when picking up rev. but too will reduce the "rubber band" effect the engine have which I now after 1'5 years of riding with the bike like more and more.
Yes very nice, there is one thing that does look somehow too modern in my personal view (or not matching too well). This are the rubber tune protectors for the stanchions. The standard dust covers look so much better ( in my personal view).
Beside this very personal thing perfect, looking forward for an update !!!
I' am too in the process of electrical wiring, where are the switches?
Setting Timing Using The Points
in SWM
Posted · Edited by pschrauber
As I know are the Points and the contact/Points runner subject to wear.
Every time when the contacts/points are opened again, the current flow will tear off producing a small electric arc.
This arc will wear the contact surfaces, the distance of the points will increase.
But also the contact runner, - he is responsible for opening the contact -, wear off in the course of operation, so that the "breaker-contact distance" will be decreases with the time.
With the gap of 0.04mm the system is balanced out, and readjustements have to be made in terms around 5000km for a street bike.
If the opening of the points/contacts is adjusted longer then there will be more wear to the contact/points runner but less to the points/contacts and vice a verse. So you will have to readjust the ignition more often and too replacing the points.
(As I understood ... I'am not an engineer in engine technics)