Are you sure that you have mounted the main bearings perfectly to the crank shaft?
For mounting the assembly I prefer the heating / freezing method:
- first mounting the kick start shaft and return spring, as we all know ...,
- then put the left sidecase in the oven and heat the assembly up to around 150 - 180°
- you can too put the crank assembly in a plastic bag and then in the fridge.
Now mount the crankshaft in the left side case this should work out very easy, the crank bearing should pop in with ease,
and when sitting completely in the left engine case everything should be OK.
Mount the reminding shafts and gears, ...
Now mount the right engine case, heat the case up to 180° and be sure to mount it parallel already from the beginning, some soft hits with a wooden or plastic hammer and the case should slip on.
When the case has cooled down check if all shafts and the crank runs free.
I admit I also have my SWM modified and have used as a "template" the SWM of Gilles he have used in 1981. So Betor legs in Marzocchi clamps, clutch with actuator of the Enduro and 12mm balls and too slightly longer shocks back but I did not cut off the rear loop of the frame or changed the original footrests as I never modify anything which i can not bring back to original status.
As stated b40rt I am too very pleased so far with the original Dell Orto- When the rubber parts like the manifolds and the curly part between airbox and carb are fresh and crack free and the engine rebuilded the combo works very well for me. But I'am too not at all a world class rider ...
D slide is one side flat the other round an invention of our days sadly not back then.
OK then you use a 28mm and not a 30mm or 32mm carb as posted in # 01#?
Of course the jetting depends to the hight where you are, the season and the particular engine anyway it's good to get a clue where to start, the rest is fine balancing.
So the OKO is a flat slide carb, then the carb would be inadmissible in classic Trials Events where I live, (These carbs are only allowed in the rule of grandfathering, when they where installed already as original part to the bike).
A flatslide carb is certainly better then a round slide carb due to better gas flow inside, Dell'Orto have one too the VHST model ...
Anyway interesting, can you write down the spec's of the jets and needle you mounted as the diameter is so much different to the original mounted Dell'Orto?
The one steel ball is already attached to the actuator, what I guess is that in the past someone have replaced or modified the clutch rod and at the end it was too short. Instead of using the right length an additional roller tube was used, maybe there is still a roller ball inside as the ball is difficult to get out when the clutch assemly inside the clutch basket is completly assembled.
I your clutch is not working as well as it should and you have found pieces that obviously do not belong to the bike You should take the clutch apart and look through the assembled parts.
Here the clutch asembly of the engine, (from a Sherpa not a Alpina engine, but the are pretty much the same):
Here what you should find when you take the clutch apart:
The cluth rod #15 in the sketch,
The roller ball # 44 in the sketch,
The mushroom shaped press rod end with the roller bearing which actuates the outer clutch plate # 8 and # 43 in the sketch.
Get a parts book from your Alpina and then ask Bultaco UK if they can deliver you the parts, I would also suggest to replace
# 8 and # 43 as this parts wear pretty much as well, here my used clutch rod, ball, mushroom style press rod and roller bearing which I have replaced:
Mmmh ... isn't the dwell time much more depending to the rpm of the engine?
I have been told - so far - that the coil is set / prepared for charging within the maximum revolution speed of the engine here can be a "bottle neck".
The capacitator on the old fashioned magneto ignition is for reducing the sparc / arc bow between the points so they don't wear too fast.
The charging time of the condensor which is used is much faster as the same model is used also for SWM Enduro and MX models where the max rpm of theses bikes compared to the SWM Trials bike are around 2000 rpm higher.
As I know are the Points and the contact/Points runner subject to wear.
Every time when the contacts/points are opened again, the current flow will tear off producing a small electric arc.
This arc will wear the contact surfaces, the distance of the points will increase.
But also the contact runner, - he is responsible for opening the contact -, wear off in the course of operation, so that the "breaker-contact distance" will be decreases with the time.
With the gap of 0.04mm the system is balanced out, and readjustements have to be made in terms around 5000km for a street bike.
If the opening of the points/contacts is adjusted longer then there will be more wear to the contact/points runner but less to the points/contacts and vice a verse. So you will have to readjust the ignition more often and too replacing the points.
(As I understood ... I'am not an engineer in engine technics)
As I know the model series 199, 199-A and 199-B where numbered through. With the model A and the later B they just continued to count further. That's why the model B and A have such high serial numbers which doesn't match the really produced numbers of bikes.
The serial numbers starts normally with the number of the model, here it would be 199 and then followed by 5 digits, so the first bike should have the number:
There are one or two that keeps the gears between the gear shafts "aligned" the "spacer" has an edge too, the on my Bultaco was warn out and I had to refabricate the part as it wasn't available anymore. I have pic's of it but I'am not at home yet, first on Friday ... .
Anyway if the gear shafts aren't very well alinged shifting can be difficult and setted gears can " hop" out.
I use it too, I started using it first for the brush cutter and then for the chain saws, then too for the lawn mover and now also for the bikes. It's very good as it doesn't get old, it can be stored in years even with big temperatur differences. - 30 deg. or + 30 deg. Over years doesn't change the "petrol" even premix will be as good when mixed a couple of years ago.
My problem is the price standard Aspen isn't cheap and only has 91 ROZ, for the bikes I need at least 95 ROZ and for my KTM I need at least 98 ROZ.
Aspen+ has 95 ROZ but you have to rejet the carb because the engine will run to lean when before being used with standard petrol.
There ia Aspen Racing available which has 100 ROZ, this works very fine with any bike engine so far as I van tell, the price ... well ... is around three times as much as standard gasoline,and it's not so easy to get it.
Known issues so far, none, no problem with plastic tanks, aluminium and aluminium magnesium or steel. I once had an issue with a rubber tube which was dissolved by the gasoline I think, the rubber got extremly soft like chewing gum. After replacing the gas rubber tune no problems so far.
I have a replica glasfiber gas tank here I also had no issues.
Next time you get in the situation for taking off the rotor you can look up if there are some holes (Sacklochbohrungen) just on one side, may in different diameter and only a couple of mm in depth. If so the rotor is fine balanced.
I have not seen any marks of fine balancing on the rotor of my bike so the rotor was not fine balanced at least for my bike.
If you want to get the rotor fine balanced let it be done if you not have the machinery to do so. I personal would wait until the next crank rebuild. Then the complete unit crank, rotor and flywheel can be balanced in one step. This would not increase the cost of the labor only a tiny little bit and the engine will run smoother too.
There where both models/brands installed Femsa and Motoplat and to add a little confusion too, both where different in weight. I think it depended to which country
the bike was delivered.
Just now on vacancy and with limited access I have photos of both rotor brands even for both models, (250 and 350cc). The Motoplat ignition are some 100 gramm heavier. when I remember right.
Mmmh, I personal like the 11 / 39 gearing best, might be not very slow but the pic-up = acceleration is "OK" as the engine doesn't pick up revs very fast in need.
And of course you won't hit any stone as easy with a smaller sprocket at the rear.
Certainly in thight sections you might be in the situation to pull the clutch ...
Anyway the Sherpa likes some speed then the bike rides easier in my obeservation likewise the frame setup isn't build for these very thight section when it goes straight ahead over rocks, stones, trees and steps the bike performes quite well, also in soft and slippery conditions.
But it's your riding style and your bike so you have to figure out by yourself what is more important.
Try Sigma, they sells also in the US and have bicycle speedometers that are also illuminated and work very good, you can buy them with wire or without, (wireless is a benefit in my opinion).
I have Sigma bicycle speedometer as road legal equipment for my KTM and use Sigma speedos too for my bicycles, they are waterproof, very reliable, easy to install and much more accurate then the standard cable driven speedos.
Road registration for a 500cc KTM 2-stroke (former ISDT bike) with Sigma speedometer:
The Sigma BC 1609 is with backlight but wire version,
The Sigma BC 1609 STS is also with backlight and wireless.
There can be used SAE 10 - 5 (older recommandations) from the mid seventies or SAE 30 (newer recommandations) from the beginning 80's,
in pesonal experience ATF works too very good. (As thinner the oil as easier the clutch will slip).
For the gear box where the transmission is situated SAE 75 - 95 works fine, Castrol EPX does the Job really well you can use either SAE 80 - 90 or even SAE 85 - 140
Yep condensator might be the problem. To check the condensator turn the rotor until the points are open, then connect the condenser to a multi meter, adjust measuring resistance (20M Ohm), when the multi meter is connected the resistance should rise up.
If the resistance goes down or a short circuit is shown the condensator is faulty / broken.
198A Crank
in Bultaco
Posted
Are you sure that you have mounted the main bearings perfectly to the crank shaft?
For mounting the assembly I prefer the heating / freezing method:
- first mounting the kick start shaft and return spring, as we all know ...,
- then put the left sidecase in the oven and heat the assembly up to around 150 - 180°
- you can too put the crank assembly in a plastic bag and then in the fridge.
Now mount the crankshaft in the left side case this should work out very easy, the crank bearing should pop in with ease,
and when sitting completely in the left engine case everything should be OK.
Mount the reminding shafts and gears, ...
Now mount the right engine case, heat the case up to 180° and be sure to mount it parallel already from the beginning, some soft hits with a wooden or plastic hammer and the case should slip on.
When the case has cooled down check if all shafts and the crank runs free.