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Boost bottle !!!,
E P I C,
very interesting and contemporary indeed.
How did you measure / calculate the bottle, do you have used the Information given from Trialsport in the beginning 80's:
or do you have used any other ressource?
Have you any practical advice to tell !
Looking forward for any news on that.
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I had to add the describtion how to get through the www site as it's obviously programmed with active x components ...
now it should work ...
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There are decompressors for Rotax (SWM) engines still available, very priceworthy, around 21,60 €,
(without the cable and the extra lever attached to the bar which you will certainly need too).
Rotax part nr. : 291600
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You will find a maintain and repair manual with part lists and the recommended oil quantitys form Marzocchi forks of the beginning 80's here:
http://www.heskethownersclub.org.uk/
Look at the left menu, click on:
Spares & Technical
A new page will appear.
Then browse down the page until the section:
HESKETH TECHNICAL INFORMATION
there will a appear a box with different repair manuals choose, click on:
Service Manual for Marzocchi Forks)
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Depending your needs, I was recently in the situation to get the engine completly rebuild.
It took some time and one part had to be exchanged as it first come not in the right dimension,.
(exchange was no problem but took again a couple of days)
But it worked out quite well so far.
Reinhard Hallat in northern Germany still offers parts and repairs Rotax engines,
even special orders / custom parts.
Here his adress: http://www.rotax-deutschland.de/
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It was an honour to me,
been fascinated by these bike builds.
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OK,
I hope I will not forget, stiction sounds so unfamiliar in combination with friction and reminds me in word melody more to a stick, stitch, ...
might sound stupid for you but english is not my mothertongue. As said I will do my best in future.
Patrik
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That's a custom build twinshock bike from Pavesi Pericle in Mailand. The name of the bike is PCL 26.4 Trial
It's a Suzuki engine and the rest build "scrath" around to the demands of Pericle and Pavoni Franco
You find the story of this bike here: http://www.pavesires...i.com/Trisu.htm
There are some really nice other rebuilds from him:
- Bianchi 203: http://www.pavesires...i.com/Biatr.htm
- Bianchi Tonale 260, (a 4 stroke!): http://www.pavesirestauri.com/ton.htm
- Parillia Trial 280: http://www.pavesires...i.com/patri.htm
In my personal view one if not the best trials bike builder, not even to transform them technical, (none of the mentioned bikes are designed in first hand as a trials bike), but also in view of design in appereance.
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Also very recommended from own experience Ariete ARI in 35 x 47 x 10, you only need one of them in each side they comes together with a grease that has to be filled between the lips of the oil seal, (the oil seal has two lips that will seal the stanchion).
Very little stop-loss momentum and if you want, you can even skip using the dust covers as the upper lips works likewise.
http://www.motorrad-ersatzteile24.de/Ersatzteile-Produktdetails/103010049,Ariete%20Gabelsimmerring%20-%20Satz%2035%20x%2047%20x%2010.html#
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Hi Chris
The size of the chain is 520 (5/8 x 1/4).
The lenght of the chain might vary, you have to "check out" the right lenght by controlling the needed slack, there should be a distance of around 10-15mm between chain tensioner and swing arm.
The chain will be deliverd with a chain lock and around 110 - 116 links, you have to cut the not neccesary links with a chain tool (chain link opener).
In some circumstances you might need a half chain link: http://shop.freestyl...?idCategory=447
With best regards
Patrik
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Yep the only way to get this problem solved in reasonable time.
You can then search for a replacement in future, these side cases doesn't appear frequently.
The welding isn't easy let it be done by a professional with reputation and experience.
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Anyway, even if you order paint that will match RAL 5015* or Ford Electric Blue* every paint charge you will get will not match in perfection even the color map you might have. Our human perception of colors is just too good.
*The color I/we used is Opel Signalblau this color came to the market together with the "new" Opel Kadett and Ascona in the mid 70's /to the end 70's. When I had to repair chipped of paint at my Bultaco in 81 this was the color which was recommended and sold to me by my Bultaco dealer (Werner Linz). Color code for the paint is: 224 / L-L, order #: 1531224 (Opel Signalblau is not provided in the color codes of General Motor.)
In my opinion the differences beteen these light blue colors from Ford / Opel or even RAL are not so obvious and as the paint will change the color getting darker and will be getting slightly yellowness too with the years I personal would not bother.
BTW:
The German GM which is Opel where lucky to have a distribution network in Spain back then and therefore had the ability to sell them also in Spain. Due to the existing political system installed by Franco, the economy was subject to special rules and imported goods had heavy import fees or limitations, only some companys had the possibility to sell there goods in Spain, Opel was one of the few.
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It's interesting to read such an old thread from 2006. Back then the background knowledge wasn't very evaluated. This has changed a lot. I liked the Tour de France a lot back then and Mr. Armstrong was one of my heros back then. I can still see the situation in my mind when he and a German rival where cycling together up a mountain in the Alpes and Lance made a by-by sign and just doubled up his speed leaving the rival along that could only look very frustrated shacking his head. It was unbelievable but we all thought it was real. Now I know there where some serious cheating involved and Mr. Armstrong is now in my personal opinion not a hero anymore I feel spoiled now.
I might be even feel fooled a little bit by the other riders too ss they also cheated bur I am very sure now that Armstrong did cheat to perfection and this is my main problem. There are no sporting around anymore ... sadly as you never know if they are talented or just pumped up ...
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This E-Bay ad is surly a try out as you never know if there still isn't a moron around that will buy this junk ...
Interesting as the number of such ads is increasing?
I get strange ideas as I also have set of Michelins tube type tires with s-marking from 1982 left ... might be easier to place them on E-Bay then leaving them to the recycling ... would save me the transportaition?
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Hi Chris,
Yummy looks nice,
Is his the model made out of PP dyed in blue with printed on decals, (as it is not glossy I believe so) ?
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Hi Chris,
most clear gasoline tubes are made of PVC and therefor will harden with the time, a ittle bit better is the situation with tubes made out of silicon.
Or you take rubber made gasoline tubes, these withstand UV - light when covered with fabric much better too.
Very good is the gasoline and eveb bio diesel resistant tube made out of Tricofuel®, found here:
http://www.wildkamp....he_c_4001031_de
but expensive in comparison.
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Technical and in weight the TLR is much better as the Reflex, but as I have read was the last winner of twinshock classic trials in one of the US competition series a man on a Honda Reflex. He even has his own threat about the bike in advrider called: Fun with Outright Junk
This confirms the thesis that it is not so very important which bike you ride but in which shape the rider is.
@Scot Taco:
The Yamaha TY 250 is the more adult counterpart to the 175cc model. It will please you too I think.
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Yes they will, there is no difference in length or diameter, they will fit right spot on.
The inerta might be changed a little bit the older forks have more metal bit's inside as the newer once have more plastic bit's inside.
For a comparison here a picture of the inerta of a 199b:
Inerta of a Betor of a 159 model:
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There is only around one to two cm space between the tire and the exhaust.
There should be a spacer between the mount of the frame and the mount of the rear silencer to increase the distance between exhaust and tire. Also there is a spacer on the rear holder to the mid section that will too push the mid section more outwards.
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The TY is very nice and forgiving to ride especially in classic sections. Should be easy to find in the US too.
IF there is time left and you like too to wrench on the bike there are a lot of improvements possible, so the bike can and will grow in terms of capability and weight reducting likewise you improve your riding, (200cc engine, more stable fork, better suspension rear, ...).
As already beeing stated the Fantic 200 is another real classic trials bike to take in consideration in my personal view, the power output and frame layout is very good for classic trials. The 240cc Fantic in comparison to the 200cc give's you a sureplus of power that you only need when you are an experienced rider.
For long distance trials or riding in the Alpes / likewise Rocky Mountains, (I only know the Rocky's in Colorade southwest from Denver) you need more grunt then the 175cc can deliver also the 200cc is not so optimal. Here the mentioned 240 or the 250cc TLR are much better but expensier and I believe not so easy to find in the US. (You loose some power when over 2500m ... and there bigger displacement bikes still have reserves whereas small displacements then "hardly can breath").
But as you are in the midwest the altitude isn't so high where you ride? The 175cc Yamaha should please you I believe.
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When you know the manufactor of your wheel than it's easy to find the matching sprocket.
You are using a 520 chain I think?
The sprocket has a large hole with inner diameter which I would measure up.
Then six holes in a regulary distance or partial angle of a circle, (should be 60°) and which have a inner diameter too.
Then there is the distance between the fastener holes and the large hole, has to be measured too.
With these information ask a local Honda dealer which also sales dirt bikes if he have something that will suit your measurements
and the desired theet amount. This is the easiest way to get a new rear sprocket.
Then you can also let someone mill a new sprocket, there are (at least in Germany) many companys around that will do this for you but this is where I live around three times as pricy as getting a standard one.
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As I can read that it is a DID rim, could be a Honda wheel, as color of the rim matches too.
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If you are interested in the history of your Italian Bultaco bike you might want to ask the former Italian importer of Bultaco, he is still riding at least showing up at classic trials in the Alpes region here and there.
Name / Adress / Phone -> PM
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If you search for real spray paint especially for motorcycle engines, (also available as rattle can paint),
R.H. Lacke produces professional paint on 2 components basis and you can get also small amounts for personal use.
I have used this paint already for my KTM 500 two stroke! with best ersults in application and durability.
cylinderhead cylinder, ... no problem so far.
Here their standard engine paints: http://www.motorradlack.de/produktliste/zubehor/motorlacke/
You can ask them using this form if they can deliver you engine paint that will match to 100% the original color, they also produce exhaust paint or standard paint for frames other parts that matches the original color. Here the form: http://www.motorradlack.de/farbsuche/
To the prices here the 2013 price list: http://www.motorradlack.de/wp-content/uploads/endverpreis-2013.pdf
(prices in Euro! and not to forget this is professional paint you won't get this quality everywhere and compared to industrial standard paint the prices are really OK!)
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Fantic's I thaught we discuss about Spaniards .... Ahhh humor ....
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