the Euro TLR 250 is 10 times the trials bike a Reflex is, i had 2 of the TLR 250,s sold one for what i paid for both..
my TLR is one of the best twin shock trials bikes iv ever been on, i ride it hard, and push its limits, im 200 lbs, and it hauls my butt up crazy stuff without an issue.
Technical and in weight the TLR is much better as the Reflex, but as I have read was the last winner of twinshock classic trials in one of the US competition series a man on a Honda Reflex. He even has his own threat about the bike in advrider called: Fun with Outright Junk
This confirms the thesis that it is not so very important which bike you ride but in which shape the rider is.
@Scot Taco:
The Yamaha TY 250 is the more adult counterpart to the 175cc model. It will please you too I think.
There is only around one to two cm space between the tire and the exhaust.
There should be a spacer between the mount of the frame and the mount of the rear silencer to increase the distance between exhaust and tire. Also there is a spacer on the rear holder to the mid section that will too push the mid section more outwards.
The TY is very nice and forgiving to ride especially in classic sections. Should be easy to find in the US too.
IF there is time left and you like too to wrench on the bike there are a lot of improvements possible, so the bike can and will grow in terms of capability and weight reducting likewise you improve your riding, (200cc engine, more stable fork, better suspension rear, ...).
As already beeing stated the Fantic 200 is another real classic trials bike to take in consideration in my personal view, the power output and frame layout is very good for classic trials. The 240cc Fantic in comparison to the 200cc give's you a sureplus of power that you only need when you are an experienced rider.
For long distance trials or riding in the Alpes / likewise Rocky Mountains, (I only know the Rocky's in Colorade southwest from Denver) you need more grunt then the 175cc can deliver also the 200cc is not so optimal. Here the mentioned 240 or the 250cc TLR are much better but expensier and I believe not so easy to find in the US. (You loose some power when over 2500m ... and there bigger displacement bikes still have reserves whereas small displacements then "hardly can breath").
But as you are in the midwest the altitude isn't so high where you ride? The 175cc Yamaha should please you I believe.
hi patrick yes thats what i thought. i just need to know what sprocket to put on.
When you know the manufactor of your wheel than it's easy to find the matching sprocket.
You are using a 520 chain I think?
The sprocket has a large hole with inner diameter which I would measure up.
Then six holes in a regulary distance or partial angle of a circle, (should be 60°) and which have a inner diameter too.
Then there is the distance between the fastener holes and the large hole, has to be measured too.
With these information ask a local Honda dealer which also sales dirt bikes if he have something that will suit your measurements
and the desired theet amount. This is the easiest way to get a new rear sprocket.
Then you can also let someone mill a new sprocket, there are (at least in Germany) many companys around that will do this for you but this is where I live around three times as pricy as getting a standard one.
This thread has been quite useful to me, just bought recently a very bent (nose shunted) 199A frame for "development purposes" which was also stamped with an Italian DGM number, so the frame is from a 199A sold in Italy - now at Moffat Racing HQ!
I also have a bent 199A swing arm, probably from the same blasted bike, also for "development purposes"
Big John
If you are interested in the history of your Italian Bultaco bike you might want to ask the former Italian importer of Bultaco, he is still riding at least showing up at classic trials in the Alpes region here and there.
You can ask them using this form if they can deliver you engine paint that will match to 100% the original color, they also produce exhaust paint or standard paint for frames other parts that matches the original color. Here the form: http://www.motorradlack.de/farbsuche/
(prices in Euro! and not to forget this is professional paint you won't get this quality everywhere and compared to industrial standard paint the prices are really OK!)
I believe Mahle was considered the best available in the day; I'm not sufficiently familiar with what others use nowadays to say whether this still applies.
This possibly raises two other questions, though : would a Mahle item be unobtainium?.......or simply unaffordium ?
Suspension spring rates will have more influence on the tendency (or not) of a shock to "bottom out" than its length.........
NOS Mahle piston with rings and piston pin was around 145 € in 2011, as I know still available.
Weighting 135 lbs? or better in metric 67kg "dry" and I'am are using SAE 7,5 which works pretty well for me, the amount should be between 150 (eralier models) and 180cc, (later models). Standard is SAE 10.
The inerta of the forks which is most responsible for the action of the fork is pretty much the same beside that some parts from model 199a on where replaced with plastic.
To avoid flex the more modern clamps are -as already mentioned- an improvement.
A problem are the lower fork aluminium "stanchions" the inner tubes are also the guidance for the upper stanchions and are therefore subject to wear.
Recognizable by rubbing or sometimes unequal resistance to compress and rebound
And if you measure the inner bore and too determines the direction of travel a greater distance.
When worn out there have to be replaced. Potentially, you can make a sleeve? I have not yet heard of someone having done this ...
Sad story ... the seller did not tell you the truth here, if you have a written contract you might can declare the deal retroactive wise invalid and get the money back as a removed serial number of a vehicle is very often a considerable defective, (this depends on the laws in your country).
But may be there is a chance to get the frame number "backtraced" too, on my TY 125 the engine number and frame number are the same.
You need to understand the history of these bikes - I don't think Honda will be very helpful...
I do ask the Sir's here what came to there mind?
If you want to know the history of a bike there is one and very commen solution: To ask the manufactor (if he still exist), about the bike.
This is the very usual and standard way to get information where none exist.
Certainly this works only if you don't have anything to hide.
First, to the question if the factory might want to get it back. No one can reclaim something from you if it wasn't taken away unlawful which would be in this case theft.
If it has been sold there should be a contract, if this paper doesn't exist anymore because this deal happend decades ago it's a pitty but doesn't mean the previous owner has now the right to get it back automatically???
This can only happen when the previous owner has given proof that he was missing this goods, if so there would exist a police report. If there exist a police report then it's stolen goods. (There is also the limitation period to consider, which depends to the jurisdiction of the country where the offense has happend).
If no former police report exist the good belongs to the recent holder of the bike.
The bike could also have been given away, probably as a gift because it was back then (30years ago) "useless" or low in worth, then there even might not been any contract. Again any previous owner don't have the right to reclaim something what he has pervious owned some decades ago if he can't give a proof that he lost it in the past.
There are some other works bike around in Europe that are still ridden and owned by privateers also Hondas.
If someone is posting information in a largely public forum me and btw. you too can assume he is the legal owner.
Posting like:
"I would advise caution with the above post !"
" Me too, Honda might want it back ..."
" You need to understand the history of these bikes - I don't think Honda will be very helpful... "
create a liability to the TO he might have something illegal which doesn't exist, ultimately it is in any democratic law still the rule of the presumption of innocence to consider. In my judgment the above named postings only create unjustified fear and are made of personal envy.
The result of jealousy and "intimidation" of the TO generated by these postings #13 - 15 is that the pictures are now gone and we certainly will not hear much about this motorcycle.
very sad ...
BTW.: There where some restaurations done with the RTL 360, and as I read the manufactor try to help owners quite a lot, also there are some bikes in private hand and as I see Honda is even proud that it is how it is:
If the silencer is clogged it's worth the effort, performance and soundwise.
For the performance I would take a look inside the mid section from the rear there is a holetube installed with is attached to the manifold between the holetube and the corpus of the silencer should been a kind of mineral isulation material. Mostly the holes of the holetube are clogged. and had to be cleaned too.
The rear section of the exhaust has luckily only in the first third to half again a holetube and isulation mounted also this holetube has to be cleaned and the isulation has to be replaced.
For the isulation I would recommend exhaust isulation which comes in mats, due to the case that in the middle sections of the exhaust the hole tube has a free end and when you have filled the voids between the holetube and the corpus to light it can be blown out. In the other hand filling the void to thight will decrase the performance and silencer effects.
Here a picture of the opened rear section of the silencer:
Here a sketch of inner parts of the mid section:
For the exhaust insulation material, I only have a German dealer at hand, you should find this stuff in every other good dirt-bike dealer store:
Wrap the insulation around the cleaned holetube, secure the mat with wire in the middle, then you can if necessary reshape the ends. Place it in one half of the exhaust,
fasten the hole tube to the manifold, (brazing or some welding points) then you can close the corpus again.
Do you have and probably can show some pic's of your bike?
BTW:
I had a 175cc too, it was my first bike which I used for competititions back then, (from 1981 to 1982 when I remember right), I sadly sold the bike. I do search for a bike in good shape ... but this model is very rare in Germany.
Fuel Tank
in Bultaco
Posted
Hi Chris,
Yummy looks nice,
Is his the model made out of PP dyed in blue with printed on decals, (as it is not glossy I believe so) ?