pschrauber

NOS Mahle piston with rings and piston pin was around 145 € in 2011, as I know still available.

Sweet!

Impressive, the color well ... there are different tastes around.

As I know there isn't.

Weighting 135 lbs? or better in metric 67kg "dry" and I'am are using SAE 7,5 which works pretty well for me, the amount should be between 150 (eralier models) and 180cc, (later models). Standard is SAE 10.

The inerta of the forks which is most responsible for the action of the fork is pretty much the same beside that some parts from model 199a on where replaced with plastic. To avoid flex the more modern clamps are -as already mentioned- an improvement. A problem are the lower fork aluminium "stanchions" the inner tubes are also the guidance for the upper stanchions and are therefore subject to wear. Recognizable by rubbing or sometimes unequal resistance to compress and rebound And if you measure the inner bore and too determines the direction of travel a greater distance. When worn out there have to be replaced. Potentially, you can make a sleeve? I have not yet heard of someone having done this ...

Bürkmeyer in Germany have them: http://www.buerkmayer.de/trial.htm

Sad story ... the seller did not tell you the truth here, if you have a written contract you might can declare the deal retroactive wise invalid and get the money back as a removed serial number of a vehicle is very often a considerable defective, (this depends on the laws in your country). But may be there is a chance to get the frame number "backtraced" too, on my TY 125 the engine number and frame number are the same.

The pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. The optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty.

I do ask the Sir's here what came to there mind? If you want to know the history of a bike there is one and very commen solution: To ask the manufactor (if he still exist), about the bike. This is the very usual and standard way to get information where none exist. Certainly this works only if you don't have anything to hide. First, to the question if the factory might want to get it back. No one can reclaim something from you if it wasn't taken away unlawful which would be in this case theft. If it has been sold there should be a contract, if this paper doesn't exist anymore because this deal happend decades ago it's a pitty but doesn't mean the previous owner has now the right to get it back automatically??? This can only happen when the previous owner has given proof that he was missing this goods, if so there would exist a police report. If there exist a police report then it's stolen goods. (There is also the limitation period to consider, which depends to the jurisdiction of the country where the offense has happend). If no former police report exist the good belongs to the recent holder of the bike. The bike could also have been given away, probably as a gift because it was back then (30years ago) "useless" or low in worth, then there even might not been any contract. Again any previous owner don't have the right to reclaim something what he has pervious owned some decades ago if he can't give a proof that he lost it in the past. There are some other works bike around in Europe that are still ridden and owned by privateers also Hondas. If someone is posting information in a largely public forum me and btw. you too can assume he is the legal owner. Posting like: "I would advise caution with the above post !" " Me too, Honda might want it back ..." " You need to understand the history of these bikes - I don't think Honda will be very helpful... " create a liability to the TO he might have something illegal which doesn't exist, ultimately it is in any democratic law still the rule of the presumption of innocence to consider. In my judgment the above named postings only create unjustified fear and are made of personal envy. The result of jealousy and "intimidation" of the TO generated by these postings #13 - 15 is that the pictures are now gone and we certainly will not hear much about this motorcycle. very sad ... BTW.: There where some restaurations done with the RTL 360, and as I read the manufactor try to help owners quite a lot, also there are some bikes in private hand and as I see Honda is even proud that it is how it is: http://www.kerloclas...p?id=63&idref=0 http://honda-automot...da-rtl-360.html http://www.twnclub.c...4/Roide2004.htm

I would ask Honda Europe, and there the racing department they are in the UK: Honda Motor Europe Limited 470 London Road, Slough, Berkshire, England SL3 8QY info@hondaproracing.com Hopefully there are some serial numbers on the engine and the frame, which I would send the Honda Corp. then you will know. This is the easiest way to get the right information and not only guesses ...

If the silencer is clogged it's worth the effort, performance and soundwise. For the performance I would take a look inside the mid section from the rear there is a holetube installed with is attached to the manifold between the holetube and the corpus of the silencer should been a kind of mineral isulation material. Mostly the holes of the holetube are clogged. and had to be cleaned too. The rear section of the exhaust has luckily only in the first third to half again a holetube and isulation mounted also this holetube has to be cleaned and the isulation has to be replaced. For the isulation I would recommend exhaust isulation which comes in mats, due to the case that in the middle sections of the exhaust the hole tube has a free end and when you have filled the voids between the holetube and the corpus to light it can be blown out. In the other hand filling the void to thight will decrase the performance and silencer effects. Here a picture of the opened rear section of the silencer: Here a sketch of inner parts of the mid section: For the exhaust insulation material, I only have a German dealer at hand, you should find this stuff in every other good dirt-bike dealer store: http://www.mxladen.com/Auspuffdaemm-Matte Wrap the insulation around the cleaned holetube, secure the mat with wire in the middle, then you can if necessary reshape the ends. Place it in one half of the exhaust, fasten the hole tube to the manifold, (brazing or some welding points) then you can close the corpus again.

For the blue mudgards in Germany it it's: Reimar Bürkmayer http://buerkmayer.de/kontakt.htm and/or Hans Jörg Pfahler http://www.bultaco.de/. May be you can go in detail depending the tips? Do you have and probably can show some pic's of your bike? BTW: I had a 175cc too, it was my first bike which I used for competititions back then, (from 1981 to 1982 when I remember right), I sadly sold the bike. I do search for a bike in good shape ... but this model is very rare in Germany.

As I know and have done so, 50cc and 80 cc bikes where often registrated in Germany as Moped or light weight motorcycles. I had a 50cc Italjet which was also road registered as a moped. If this wasn't so commen in the U.K. you might consider to get a bike from France, Benelux or Germany as there 50 and 80cc bikes show regulary up with road registration papers. When a bike was registrated once in the EU you have the right to get it registrated in your homecountry too. Still some paperwork to do, (in own experience as I have self imported two bikes from Italy), but less paperwork and hassle then trying to get a "paperless" bike road registrated. I think here is information about the self import and roadregistration of vehicles in the UK: http://www.justlanded.com/english/UK/Articles/Visas-Permits/Vehicles

Thank You, that is really nice as CS2 is already very good for most applications. For those people that had bought the program in 2006 for a ridiculous amount of money ... Well that's another story. Also how the program will work with modern OS and hardware. Then there is the activation issue, beginning with CS2 an activation has to be done in 30 days otherwise the program will go in demo mode, (but this can have been disabled??) Anyone have tried out this Adobe donor on a modern OS?

The size and the geometrical size of the does matter if you have a standard two stroke engine without any reeds or or disk valve to steer the intake air gasoline mix as the piston revolutions produces resonances and therefore the gas-mixture will oscillating inside the intake and the air box. When the periods of these resonances doesn't fit to the frequency of the engine revolution this will lead to a worse filling of mixture during the suction stroke. To prevent this the size of the hollow of the air box has to be adjusted. If this is not possible you need tubes inside the airbox that work as Helmholtz resonators to get rid of these "bad" resonances. If you look inside many airboxes you often find there two or three tubes that work as resonators just to prevent bad airflow.

I confess I have never have tried the rear brake switch elsewhere or did a check with a multi meter, (there was no need so far). It may well be possible that the system works "in the other sequence". This very archaic looking electrical component on the plate, in my eyes, very unique as I never saw this on any other bike ... elsewere I believe I will not think about it, probably we can assume it works when doing the opposite.

I believe the resistor set up, (look up at the first photo in post #2 (the edged plate with a kind of a coil)), is a kind of a archaic predecessor of a voltage regulator taking away any voltage peaks produced by the generator of the ignition. Therefore it's permanent on, when the circuit of the brake lamp is closed by the switch the electricity just takes the "easier" route and the bulb will shine quite bright. You can mount a regulator instead that will fit in voltage and power, (see the third photo of post #02 for the regulator of Femsa (Spain)). If you have difficulties to get this unit you might can take the regulator made for Simson bikes, (Simson the former East German bike factory, Simsons have the same delivery of voltage and power, 6V and 45W)). This is a guess I' haven't done this and you have to check out ground first, (if it's - or +!, I haven't done this) A ressource is here: http://www.moped-wer...tt-F-Simson-AWO Otherwise You wan't to ask Powerdynamo f.e. if they have any regulator that works with the original ignition. If not you will have run the bike without any and the risk the of replacing bulbs frequently. I hope this helped ??? Patrik

These are pull switches for the brake light, there where two types: - one attached to the rear brake cable on the left side where the cable hose is mounted to the swing arm and - one attached to the right side mount of the cable hose of the rear brake cable where the mount is attached to the frame Which one? To the circuit there is a resistor interconnected (#08) this resistor will be bridged over by the rear-light switch. If not bridged over the resistor will "eat up" the electrical energy.

This is riddicoulus high price! I don't know if the following is corresponding with the rules? Anyway: The paint I used for my Bultaco costs: 11,88 €/liter! You get 3 rattlecans with each 400ml for 14.25 €. I used this paint for the exhausts with very good results, (paint needs tempering!) You get it through E-Bay here: http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4cee5f6875

Most heat resistant rattlecan paints works quite well. They will stay best when the old paint layers are taken away and also any rust (on the exhaust f. e.). To get the paint as much gasoline and oil resistant as possible and more "robust" the parts needs tempering. No problem for cylinder and cylinder head or the outtake, the mid- and endsection of the exhaust need an extra heat treatment in my experience. An hour at >200 degree Celsius will do the job.

Standard for the 199b with 340cc is 2,2mm in advance to TDC.

To divide the spectrum of twinsock bikes from 1967 up to 1986 in four separate periods, that's comprehensible too me, also the extra class for tuned bikes. Where would a TY 250 twinshock be categorized, this bikes was made in 1973/4 (model 434) but even in 1980 (model 516), changes where beside graphic's nearly imperceptible as far as I know? What about bikes that where made before eighties but where in technical standard much ahead like the Becker Montesas? To the airboxes, many Bultaco riders used the Wolf airfilter box back then in Germany and Austria they where made in a small production run by an Austrian plumber (Mr. Wolf) and many Sherpas were fitted with these historical aftermarket component. In other words is there a rule for contemporary "constructions" / set-up's could not find any?

As said it's a ultra short stroke only 60mm! With a dipstick and this short stroke you get 3° for 1mm of piston travel. One of the reasons you have that much advance in ignition timing for the Sherpa. That sounds much but you have to measure them too which will be a real task with that dipstick, the gauge in 1/100mm and adjustable 0 is much more comfortable/easier to use, less time consuming and much more accurate and you can use the gauge for measuring other things like roundniss, alignment, ... too.

Anyway, You need to get the top dead center! Just in own experience because I did tried out the stick with the embossed scale. With that dipstick tool you might get an accurancy of around +/- 1mm, (beeing extremly fair). The inaccuracies already in reading the scale, (which depends to the angle of view), then the transfer to the rotor and the additional angle measurement will not lead to good result maybe accidently this might happen ... We don't have to forget it's an ultra short stroke with only 60mm. But you will find out ... The multimeter can detect electrical circuits and will then produce a beep, which is again much easier to hear when the points will close or open as with a light f. e. as you can then focus on other things and most household/riders do have a multimeter. Btw. 01: You will have to set the gap between the points first then the timimg. Sadly when setting the timing you can't measure when the points open or close, (this works only with the rotor mounted), so you will have to do the pocedure two to three times until you get the timing there where it belongs. Have fun with the dipstick, you seem to have a lot of time ... and some resistent against a good tip Btw. 02: The red box is the original motoplat beeper for detecting when the point will open or close, for setting the timing correctly, but why do I explain anything here ???