pschrauber

I have some containers of Aspen premix fuel for forest machinery and too some canisters of Aspen Race fuel with 100 octane. I have stored this fuel types several years even a decade and that storage is not harming the fuel when stored tight and in darkness. I use Aspen with my brush cutter if you cutting brush and high grass for hours like I do in the summer then you want an healthy environment around you. The Aspen race mix I bought for my MX 500 as that bike likes to mess around a lot with gas and oil, with Aspen no mess, no smoke and no deposit!

I can tell by evidence that E10 is not so good storeable anymore, before with ethanol free gas or fuel with "just" 5% ethanol I could store fuel in containers from 5L onwards over the winter, now if heavy frost is involved (we get -20 deg) it dissolves, change smell, and creating and gelantinous deposit even with chemicals for longer storage.

I believe the bike has the common ignition problem with broken internal electronic components, not easy to fix. The most. common reason of bikes with incast electronic ignitions frim Motoplat or SEM. Then parts are missing too, Then no information about road registration. Around 500 Euros or 500 $ or 500 GBP. I have a TR34 too a MK II from 1988 and that bike was complete came with paoers and was running, I just paid 1200 € and the bike had even the original decals. This bike is not and you don't know what issues are inside the engine or in terms of the bushings of the linkage of the rear and so on.

My 2 Penny/Cent: If you use the right plug and right carb or electronic injection setting the plug will last very long. In my personal experience older plug models are more tolerant / can be used in a broader heat range, Plugs without R gizmo (inbuild resistor) last longer. My oldest plug still working is mounted in my Bultaco Sherpa 199b, with is a nice pink colored LODGE plug from 1981, which is has been used for 3500 km. The plug seems to have been mounted when the bike was new and is still working nice, only minor wear and shows with a clean big crisp spark, the plug even survived the engine top- end rebuild thus a complete piston, crank and rebore! I have bought 10 of these old LODGE plugs so the next 200 years the bike is saved! I only use standard NGK plugs without resistor and if in need I have changed the heat range to be aligned with the current riding adjustments, thus have hotter plugs mounted to my SWM and the Montesa but a colder to my TY.

That states all you need to know, even in very very muddy events they would not make sense as you emberass the environment with them. A solution still clogging not only the chain but too the rest of the bike would be chain oil on wax or PTFE basis that is at least easy to wipe away and works quite good, a drop each minute I would think is all you need.

That is much for a Majesty? I have reached 76kg in running order with a schoolboy frame. A modern bike is easier to ride yes but the riding style has changed too much more aggressive not floating, riding the classic style on a modern trials bike looks suspicious...

Would recommend a lightweight twinshock too, thus he and keep up with his style of rideing and do not have to "fear" the artistic stuff you do nowadays. The mentioned Yamaha TY 175 is a very nice bike even so a 200 or 240cc Fantic I would take in consideration.

The 428 will only provide 11 teeth, the 520 9 in front. The 520 is too a bit more sustainable then the 428. The 428 is mostly lighter, I' am using a 428 chain.

You might ask Hugh Bultaco in the US: http://www.bultacoclassic.com/ Inmotion in UK: https://www.inmotiontrials.com/ or Orlando Calonder in Switzerland: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Bultaco

Mmmh, these plastic stuff is weird, it should be made out two pieces: an outer bush and an inner one that will fit inside? See here: I would be careful by cutting of a part of the spring you might get much different sag which then might not be in accordance with the weight of the bike and you anymore?

Most play comes from the mounts of the shocks and any spheral bearing mountings and here an asthonishing 0,5mm can lead to several mm at the rear of the swing arm. The most important bearings sre the spheral ones as these are very expensive and if they have play and not working seals will grind themself in hours of use down. When you thighten up everything there should not much play left. Another hint to all mono shock type rear suspension, give them at least an annual maintaince and replace the grease, also use water resistant grease.

CZ mounted them to several models from the early sixties onwards like this 1964 125cc CZ MX: Then the sport bikes got even lighter hubs with asymetrical hub to save weight, the symmetrcal sport hubs where then standard to the serial bikes of CZ and the design even copied by MZ, (MZ hubs are quite a bit heavier) .

Please check the ignition again, the timing and the points distance, too how the points look like That happend to my Sherpa too after a winter hibernation time and waking up the bike again and the issue was a wrong timing. Don't ask why it happend and how it just showed up and starting backwards was the main issue.

I only use gasoline with high octane ARAL Ultimate with 102 ROZ, I believe BP Ultimate has the same properties. This will help at first if the engine gets hot and in general. Next tipp: Do you have changed the compression using a too thin head gasket or is the piston head differently shaped, compared with a NOS piston. Tipp #03: Is the ignition proper set up and not too far from before TDC? Tipp #04: Go a bit richer in your carb set up what kind if slide with what cutaway are you using? Dell'Ortos have cutaways from 0, 15, 20, 30, 40, 45, 50 up to 60 depending the model as more cutaway as leaner is the complete set up and this effects the complete carburator from idle screw, idele jet, needle, slide position to main jet.

If you like SWM get a 125cc or a 200cc Gori and problem solved. If you go the big cc route then another money pit is opened. You can't get all choosing a Twinshock means you got limitations and you have to live with them. I have now a 1953 Ardie as a trials with even more limitations and love them.

Both are from Colander but the spokes to the CZ are one end buttened and straight in stainless steel while the spokes for the Bultaco are also one end buttened but bend. So completely different in geometry but the same in material. The rims are too from Colander, he is doing the holes and the punches too.

The best way is to phone him up and tell him what you want, they can even reproduce spokes or only the nipples. It is up to you what you want and they will manufacture them, easiest to avoid language barriers would be to sent them an old one so you will get a reproduction that will fit. In case of spokes and nipples I highly recommend to send templates.

The MAJESTY bikes are "tuned" twinshock Yamaha TY, I have a 125cc TY from 1979 that I rode in the eighties a bit just in the forest and gravel roads, then I put it away. I do like the bike in general but heavy and underpowered, I dislike the flexy fork of the 125/175cc model. The MAJESTY 175 came too as a 200cc and that is what I did, bought a TY 175 cylinder and head, did a rebore with w bigger cylinder, mounted the big 250 reed cage to the cylinder ( needs some work), also did some porting and made my own much bigger exhaust, too a bigger air box for better breathing and a new rear silencer and the bike runs great. I first mounted a 26mm carb but that was too much power! (I was really impressed by the power) thus I now have again put the 22mm Mikuni with 125cc specs on, I will replace the metal reeds of the 250cc against dual stage ones which will improve low and mid end in terms of engine strength, you can't have too little torque! The frame is nice but be careful not everything fits, our technical traffic board did not like the MAJESTY frame and had serious issues with the upper rear shock mount and the light steering steem. The rear swing arm is lengthened, too the side stand, the front has now the fork of the 250cc mono mounted with is much better and as heavy / light as the tiny 32mm fork. I like the bike very much and would suggest that model.

You can still get them, Stainless steel spokes and even with one buttend end and with aluminium nipples, Orlando Calonder in Buchs Switzerland is still manufacture them. He has made several batches of spokes and nipples zto my bikes , and of course with aluminium nipples and stainless steel spokes. You can save a good amount of weight with doing so and the properties of the aluminium and the stainless steel is flawless. Here the rear wheel with super light CZ Duraluminium/Magnesium hub and Acront rim: The front wheel even lighter, also CZ and Acront: And too as we are in the Bultaco section, Orlando Carlonder stainless steel spokes and aluminium nipples mounted to Bultaco Sherpa 199b hubs: I never had an issue so far with his spokes and also in terms of corrosion the wheel are trouble free. The website of Orlando: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Speichen und Felgen

I recommend not to apply too much heat to the rotor, the magnetic properties will go away if you heat up the rotor too much! I recommend tu use a heavy puller, the use of WD40 serveral times, some small knocks while the puller is set on and patience. The front gear on a Montesa 242 has the same issue from time to time.

In my experience and I have ridden / driven outside the EU too, I recommend to get the bike / vehicle full road worthy registered as a real street motorcycle or car and too likewise insured. Then you only need your registration papers and have got too the international insurance card, with that green card and a roadworthy registration for day and night, you can travel with your vehicle where ever you want: EU, USA, Russland, Norway or Switzerland, or now too UK. I personal have nearly all bike registered and insured, it is around 30 - 40 Euro for insurance and 20 - 35 Euro for tax per year depending the size of the engine, not much to debate over, the roadworthy test is expensive, around 110 Euro every 2nd year to each bike it might be cheaper or even not necessary in the UK?

Same to me bought too some stuff there even twice, the seller only speaks Spanish or Catalan. In my personal experience the Spaniards have got a bit strange not much communication is possible??? I ordered the Montesa 75 year anniversery book, I did got nothing not even a worthy of calling it reciepe or bill (I paid in advance to an obscure internet web page via mastercard ...) but at the end I got the book and btw. always too the items form Ivan. I hope it is the same way to your orders, then there's the border and freight issue between the EU and Britain.

Everey two years for the gear box oil, I use mosly ELF HTX 740 have never seen any discoloring too no "items" or metal residue, but I am not a rider that uses the clutch often. To the suspension depending of type and travel between 4 to 6 years, Disk brakes and their reservoir and brake lines every second year, together with a very good spooling.

The exhaust flange of the 350 and the 250 might not fit in comparision that the only thing I know, all other components are pretty much the same. I experienced that difference as I bought a much used middle exhaust from a 198a rebuild it an also (luckily) made the exhaust pipe deattachable to exchange the pipe or clean the hole tube inside easily without opening the middle box, to bolt on ny 199b. So you might do there the measurements to determine that it fit. (axis of the 4 exhaust bolts in comoarison to the axis of the flange holes if the middle exhaust section).

"The World is Flat" is a titel of an in English written book from 2005, quite an best seller and since then we know we should look over our own rim of the plate especially if we are wrenching to a motorcycle that was made in Spain and where the factory used much of their normativ basics based on German DIN norm. If I buy things I still try to buy them locally and when I want special stuff I buy it there where the chance of biggest variety and most of them are used is obvious. In this particular case, my hint to you and all the others is to ask the next farming equipment supplier you have in your town, they should have it or can organize them all, from thrust ball bearings to radial pivot bearings and brass bushings, think just about one hey tedder and you find a lot of moving parts that have to work even in the dirtiest and dustiest environment ... where to find them is a question to your phone assistance which I' am not.