pschrauber

+10 for these statements from me.

There are Falcon Shocks to mention too, you can even get shocks wit this classic double spring setup if you need. I mounted mine yesterday and tried them today, they worked very good, (Shocks where too adjusted to my weight). They come with a steel body (black) or a Aluminium body (no paint). There is not a big difference between the rockshocks and the Falcons I believe. Shocks are full rebuildable and Falcon is a manufacture in the UK.

Hi Chris, this problem was posted already by member insultaco in January this year, here the discussion about the same problem and how to fix it: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39579-m159-right-hand-crank-seals/ Patrik

For the 199a model on the clutch side there should go two bearings for the crankshaft in the engine case, (The 199b (first batch / production run) have a instead of two single bearings ome double ball bearing at the same location)

To swap the engine is not such a good idea if you want to get the bike road registrated as engine and frame number are identical. I would not recommend to do so this will make the inspector of the technical control board suspecious, (at last here where I live). You only need the 123cc cylinder and the piston, it's btw. very easy to get cylinders used in France, try E-Bay and leboncoin, piston for 123cc engine you get in France, Belgium and Germany easy if you might have problems getting them in the UK. Here the Finnish registration papers for a 125 TY, (I erased some information in the picture and combined it with a watermark, so it's as shown here useless): You can a readable / useable copy as already mentioned.

Yes, beside a different cylinder and piston and some smaller jets, you don't need anything else. I'am doing the reverse thing upgrading my 125cc to a 175/200cc. For the 125cc main jet between 90 and 110, pilot jet 25. In my personal view the 125cc engine is good for trails and street riding but lacks power, especially torque for trials riding. DId they sold any 125cc TY with a road registration in the UK? As I know most 125cc where sold on the continent while the english speaking countrys, UK and USA got most 175cc models. Anyway if you need a copy of road registration papers from a 125cc TY I can send you a copy of Finnish registration papers. (PM)

Most local saddler do a very nice job, give him the seat complete with the seat foam and the old cover and he will make a new cover probably repair the seatfoam if needed and mount the new cover. May be I'am a jerk depending mounting seat covers but the assembling quality and durability is worth the money you spend.

Depends to your riding style, I like a rear where compression and rebound is very progressive, so very smooth at first getting harder as longer the shock compressed. Slow or fast? this depends to the impact I believe, anyway for me a more "lively" rear is my personal go.

Originally the 199 had already a plastic tank lock. Even the models with a metal tank at least on the continent! Might be that in UK they had a metal tank lock? Model 199 gas tank metal with tank lock:

Mmmh I certainly possible your question includes the assumption that when you are a heavier rider you will loose suspension travel. This is only the case if you leave the adjustment to the standard setup. you can adjust the preload on nearly every shock to fit your weight so you will not have more sag. I personal would choose the 360mm long shocks if I will have a little bit of an improvement for riding at the rear as this length just fits too. For the classic look especially when the bike stands still the standard lenght fit's best. Anyway you can use the 350mm lenght too, it is just up to you you are the owner and the rider of the bike.

Mmmh, Bernie started with a Kawasaki 90, then a Bultaco Lobito 125 in 1970 (from Steve's Bultaco), in 1972 he got his first Sherpa a 250cc then he stayed with Bultaco and Sherpa's until 1980. Maybe he bought a Ossa but why should he?

Their where some Husqarnas trials bikes around, most home build versions where made out of the Silverpilen, as this bike was light and had a useable gearing: Then some made of the lower 400cc engine and a 250cc cylinder I believe, not sure here: A smal batch of around 20 bikes was made in 1967 at least they thaught that they could sell 100 a year but this did never happend, so Husqvarna did the same like KTM, they abdoned the project. There where some thought to build some in the mid 70's again but this - beside some prototypes - never happend.

Hi here a how to with basic tools: and here with a spicial tool that holds the nut for welding, (easier): Anyway let it be done by a shop, needs a lot of experience.

Hasn't there come a grey plastic tube with the preload caps? You want to use this tube as it fits perfect in the lower mounts of the magical caps. You just have to cut it into the right lenghts.

As there is a recess on top of the yokes which separates the bearing area of the stanchions from the caps it should work. To avoid any shearing paint while loosing the caps i loosen the bolts of the top yoke but leave the bolts of the lower yokes thight then unthighten the caps.

I tried out several different models out of plastic before using this "design", this is the in my view the best compromise, as depending the mount of the speedo cable and free movement of inner wire, the laying of the electrical wires from the ignition, the clutch cable laying and the welding of the bracket for the front engine mount. Last but not least also the stability. I tried to take away as much matrerial as possible, view of the mount/plate from bottom: To the rubbers for the cylinder, I have the rubbers and the cylinder will get them when all other things are done.

Got the Speedo bracket done, came out very well and fit's nice in my opinion: It's just one bended plate: Measurements as shown in the last post.

It depends what you are used too, I don't believe a bike at an evolution level of the end 60's to beginnig 70's can get improved to be a "twinshock killer". When I ride a Bultaco I ride a Bultaco not a Fantic. These bikes have some "personality" with some benefits and some drawbacks. You might reduce some of the drawbacks but this bike will never behave like a Fantic 240. I think the biggest advantage is the bash plate, no impressed lower frame tubes which is a commen issue, this is an advantage the rest is well ... a Bultaco.

Extremly good news, (Have tried to get one nearly everywhere also been told by forum members at Trialforum Germany that they are not available anymore, I should have asked you first). I need them badly, you will get an E-Mail!

I found out where the issues where, beside of some faulty seals in the carburator that I replaced now: I figured out that the decompression unit was sitting very loose, I always thaught I had a "just" a faulty exaust seal ... now I know where all the oil gume comes from .. and why the bike is running so "different". To thighten the decompression unit I had to deassamble half of the rear bike, as the unit is located under the headsteady and the bolt of the headstady on my bike was mounted from the side where the exhaust manifold is going ... The faulty deco, I ad already cleaned up a lot of the slimy mess here and thghtend the bolt as good as possible, no room when the long cylinderhead srews are still mounted. Maybe tomorrow evening I can get her running proper I hope.

Check the rubber manifold between carb and the tube of the disc valve cover for cracks that allow the engine to suck in oil. (This rubber part is sadly not available anymore !!!)

Hej Markus, detta är hämsk fint at TC har fått et nyt medlem från scandinavia, jag är även för halva finlandsvensk, (resten är tysk ). Lycka till med din moped köp, de finns i alla fall några trial MC at hitta vid www.mobile.de, kanske inte så långt borta än storbritannien? With Ulf Karlson also Sweden had a world champion in trials once, so where there's a will there's a way! Adressen till SMK i Göteborg (t.ex.: Classic Sixpencer Trials Trophy): SMK Göteborg Bräennemysten 20 436 55 HOVAS gilbert.falkenstrom(at)telia.com T: +46 31 935 719

Aha ... fuel idle screw and air idle screw. we call them Leerlaufgemischschraube which doesn't express any difference, sometimes but very uncommen nowadays Gemischeinstellschraube for fuel mix screw and Lufteinstellschraube or air mix screw. Here the PHBH mixture srew behind the slide towards the engine, (SWM): And a VHSB with air mix screw, screw mounted towards the airfilter box side, befor the slide:

Yep, completly right, it's the Leerlaufgemischschraube: idle mix screw, and it's located to the engine, behind the slide so turning in is leaner, turning out is richer. (the type PHBH carb is used for the SWM, the type VHSB for for example KTM is vice versa).

Very nice bike indeed!