pschrauber

a. Side-play / side clearance limit of the lower con-rod and the thrust washers is 0,25 mm. b. Radial clearance for the bearing is 2,5mm in cross direction at the top of the con-rod! c. If a and b is below the limits but the lower bearing feels rough while rotating the con-rod replace too! Repalce always lower con-rod pin, thrust washers and con-rod together, if you detect one of a, b or c.

These ones? They should come with the bearing. You get them probably - if not in the UK -, in Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Spain of course. Of these three ressources Mr. Pfahler should be the best adress for you, as he speaks English too, (I believe): http://www.bultaco.de

Small end spacers? To which component if I might ask?

To your PS question:Y ou need the www adress of the picture, copy it then click on the picture/photo button while writing the post, then paste the adress in and then it will show up. Your pic's: BTW. I have not a model 92 so I believe I cant get you the information you need and the crank is inside the engine too.

Mmmh ... courios, already with model 27 Sherpas had washers at the big con-rod end, so they didn't had these on the model 92? These thrust washers make sense.

Pic's above are the used con-rod and piston of my Bultaco, there should be washers: The parts books shows them:

The con-rod should have washers as I know: on both ends:

+10 for these statements from me.

There are Falcon Shocks to mention too, you can even get shocks wit this classic double spring setup if you need. I mounted mine yesterday and tried them today, they worked very good, (Shocks where too adjusted to my weight). They come with a steel body (black) or a Aluminium body (no paint). There is not a big difference between the rockshocks and the Falcons I believe. Shocks are full rebuildable and Falcon is a manufacture in the UK.

Hi Chris, this problem was posted already by member insultaco in January this year, here the discussion about the same problem and how to fix it: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39579-m159-right-hand-crank-seals/ Patrik

For the 199a model on the clutch side there should go two bearings for the crankshaft in the engine case, (The 199b (first batch / production run) have a instead of two single bearings ome double ball bearing at the same location)

To swap the engine is not such a good idea if you want to get the bike road registrated as engine and frame number are identical. I would not recommend to do so this will make the inspector of the technical control board suspecious, (at last here where I live). You only need the 123cc cylinder and the piston, it's btw. very easy to get cylinders used in France, try E-Bay and leboncoin, piston for 123cc engine you get in France, Belgium and Germany easy if you might have problems getting them in the UK. Here the Finnish registration papers for a 125 TY, (I erased some information in the picture and combined it with a watermark, so it's as shown here useless): You can a readable / useable copy as already mentioned.

Yes, beside a different cylinder and piston and some smaller jets, you don't need anything else. I'am doing the reverse thing upgrading my 125cc to a 175/200cc. For the 125cc main jet between 90 and 110, pilot jet 25. In my personal view the 125cc engine is good for trails and street riding but lacks power, especially torque for trials riding. DId they sold any 125cc TY with a road registration in the UK? As I know most 125cc where sold on the continent while the english speaking countrys, UK and USA got most 175cc models. Anyway if you need a copy of road registration papers from a 125cc TY I can send you a copy of Finnish registration papers. (PM)

Most local saddler do a very nice job, give him the seat complete with the seat foam and the old cover and he will make a new cover probably repair the seatfoam if needed and mount the new cover. May be I'am a jerk depending mounting seat covers but the assembling quality and durability is worth the money you spend.

Depends to your riding style, I like a rear where compression and rebound is very progressive, so very smooth at first getting harder as longer the shock compressed. Slow or fast? this depends to the impact I believe, anyway for me a more "lively" rear is my personal go.

Originally the 199 had already a plastic tank lock. Even the models with a metal tank at least on the continent! Might be that in UK they had a metal tank lock? Model 199 gas tank metal with tank lock:

Mmmh I certainly possible your question includes the assumption that when you are a heavier rider you will loose suspension travel. This is only the case if you leave the adjustment to the standard setup. you can adjust the preload on nearly every shock to fit your weight so you will not have more sag. I personal would choose the 360mm long shocks if I will have a little bit of an improvement for riding at the rear as this length just fits too. For the classic look especially when the bike stands still the standard lenght fit's best. Anyway you can use the 350mm lenght too, it is just up to you you are the owner and the rider of the bike.

Mmmh, Bernie started with a Kawasaki 90, then a Bultaco Lobito 125 in 1970 (from Steve's Bultaco), in 1972 he got his first Sherpa a 250cc then he stayed with Bultaco and Sherpa's until 1980. Maybe he bought a Ossa but why should he?

Their where some Husqarnas trials bikes around, most home build versions where made out of the Silverpilen, as this bike was light and had a useable gearing: Then some made of the lower 400cc engine and a 250cc cylinder I believe, not sure here: A smal batch of around 20 bikes was made in 1967 at least they thaught that they could sell 100 a year but this did never happend, so Husqvarna did the same like KTM, they abdoned the project. There where some thought to build some in the mid 70's again but this - beside some prototypes - never happend.

Hi here a how to with basic tools: and here with a spicial tool that holds the nut for welding, (easier): Anyway let it be done by a shop, needs a lot of experience.

Hasn't there come a grey plastic tube with the preload caps? You want to use this tube as it fits perfect in the lower mounts of the magical caps. You just have to cut it into the right lenghts.

As there is a recess on top of the yokes which separates the bearing area of the stanchions from the caps it should work. To avoid any shearing paint while loosing the caps i loosen the bolts of the top yoke but leave the bolts of the lower yokes thight then unthighten the caps.

I tried out several different models out of plastic before using this "design", this is the in my view the best compromise, as depending the mount of the speedo cable and free movement of inner wire, the laying of the electrical wires from the ignition, the clutch cable laying and the welding of the bracket for the front engine mount. Last but not least also the stability. I tried to take away as much matrerial as possible, view of the mount/plate from bottom: To the rubbers for the cylinder, I have the rubbers and the cylinder will get them when all other things are done.

Got the Speedo bracket done, came out very well and fit's nice in my opinion: It's just one bended plate: Measurements as shown in the last post.

It depends what you are used too, I don't believe a bike at an evolution level of the end 60's to beginnig 70's can get improved to be a "twinshock killer". When I ride a Bultaco I ride a Bultaco not a Fantic. These bikes have some "personality" with some benefits and some drawbacks. You might reduce some of the drawbacks but this bike will never behave like a Fantic 240. I think the biggest advantage is the bash plate, no impressed lower frame tubes which is a commen issue, this is an advantage the rest is well ... a Bultaco.