pschrauber

Extremly good news, (Have tried to get one nearly everywhere also been told by forum members at Trialforum Germany that they are not available anymore, I should have asked you first). I need them badly, you will get an E-Mail!

I found out where the issues where, beside of some faulty seals in the carburator that I replaced now: I figured out that the decompression unit was sitting very loose, I always thaught I had a "just" a faulty exaust seal ... now I know where all the oil gume comes from .. and why the bike is running so "different". To thighten the decompression unit I had to deassamble half of the rear bike, as the unit is located under the headsteady and the bolt of the headstady on my bike was mounted from the side where the exhaust manifold is going ... The faulty deco, I ad already cleaned up a lot of the slimy mess here and thghtend the bolt as good as possible, no room when the long cylinderhead srews are still mounted. Maybe tomorrow evening I can get her running proper I hope.

Check the rubber manifold between carb and the tube of the disc valve cover for cracks that allow the engine to suck in oil. (This rubber part is sadly not available anymore !!!)

Hej Markus, detta är hämsk fint at TC har fått et nyt medlem från scandinavia, jag är även för halva finlandsvensk, (resten är tysk ). Lycka till med din moped köp, de finns i alla fall några trial MC at hitta vid www.mobile.de, kanske inte så långt borta än storbritannien? With Ulf Karlson also Sweden had a world champion in trials once, so where there's a will there's a way! Adressen till SMK i Göteborg (t.ex.: Classic Sixpencer Trials Trophy): SMK Göteborg Bräennemysten 20 436 55 HOVAS gilbert.falkenstrom(at)telia.com T: +46 31 935 719

Aha ... fuel idle screw and air idle screw. we call them Leerlaufgemischschraube which doesn't express any difference, sometimes but very uncommen nowadays Gemischeinstellschraube for fuel mix screw and Lufteinstellschraube or air mix screw. Here the PHBH mixture srew behind the slide towards the engine, (SWM): And a VHSB with air mix screw, screw mounted towards the airfilter box side, befor the slide:

Yep, completly right, it's the Leerlaufgemischschraube: idle mix screw, and it's located to the engine, behind the slide so turning in is leaner, turning out is richer. (the type PHBH carb is used for the SWM, the type VHSB for for example KTM is vice versa).

Very nice bike indeed!

Just replaced the oil in the gear box, 1.2l is noted in the handbook, very much indeed, there is a small screw on the clutch side which I believe is the level controll screw, I had to use a litle bit more then 1.2l around 1.3 to fill up to this point, used Elf HTX 740. To the fork as it is a 35mm Betor 180 cc is standard for Bultaco up to 220 cc which is stated by SWM, but I have some doubts if 220 cc isn't too much?

Thank you for the information, I just found the settings while searching around at a Belgian site: http://www.trialclassic.be/images/SWM/reglagesUsine.jpg So the setup should be OK, interesting as the bike came from the Alpes and was ridden in an altitude of 1500m! That it was used with the standard setup in this height is impressive. So after figuring out that the main setup should be OK when I compare them I believe, - not sure -, that all these small issues like the missing seals and the small washers for the idle and mixture screws, the seal for the starter jet is worn out even the needle valve, (here the small rubber on top), shows wear / marks in the whole these misfits can get you in trouble... I replace them now and will fit new gaskets and will even replace slide needle and needle jet. The slide shows only very little wear as the cylinder inside the carb. Maybe this helps, if not I can at least strike the carb from the list. The timing is Bohemian for me, noted in degrees, 21° ? Have anyone the specs in mm before TDC?

I have some problems getting my carb / engine adjusted proper, I have not so much experience with the SWM and with the standard setup of the bike. When I got the bike it runned poor (coming from the alpes), the bike runned good in the middle but poor between idle and and mid throttel. Any fiddling at the air screw did not really help. I then changed the main jet to 100 now got good low to mid throttle but the bike is going lean, I believe. Here a pic of the plug after 20 min to half hour of trail riding, (not trials riding), engine got quite hot I believe: I adjusted the air screw slightly richer as I di not had any jets with me and went on with trials riding, it worked fairly well but wasn't the optimum, still a little bit on the lean side, (with bigger main jet!), the plug looked like this: My carb set up: Any Hints, I believe I should rather changing the main jet lift up the needle one notch, (now on second from top) and leave to 90 main jet and I think I have to replace the rubber seal of the idle jet (65) too, very old looking. Any suggestions experience, may be I have some ignition set up problems? Which kind of carb setup and ignition timing are you using?

Have them too installed even on my KTM, the main difference is the "lightness" of throttle action, it took a while before egtting used to it but then you miss something on bikes without these bearing, so I now have them on all my bikes. The hint from JSE is very good, but you have to have a hole in the grip rubber that doesn't touch the shaft of the bar end otherwise the rubber "sticks".

Hi the complete sign is 22,5cm in length overall and 2,7cm in height.

Very nice done +10!, I personal like the overall design of the red Sherpas very much, expecial yours with the silver stripe from front to rear on the gas tank. For which purpose did you the restauration? Trials riding, trials and road riding, show, twinshock trials comp. ...?

To the lower engine mounts, I did it like this and had no issues while mounting the bashplate, the engine, the swing arm or the head stady, btw. never had a broken headstady so far! I first mount the bash plate and mount the screws but only thighten them by hand, (little loose fit), the I mounted the rear engine support to the engine case, bolts again loose fit, then I place the engine in the frame and mount the front engine bolt, (loose fit), Now the swing arm, and the swing arm axle and thighten it. then I thighten the the engine bolts front and rear, thereafter the bash plate bolts. Then I unscrew the rear cylinder bolts and mounted the head stady the bolt to the frame again first with loose fit. Now I thighten the cylinder head srews with the head stady and at last I thightend the bolt where the headstady is mounted to the frame. This way the in my experience the engine / bashplate / swingarm / headstady and cylinerhead mount should work out very smooth.

There is one "problem" I did myself while I wrote up the specs, I forgot the #7 and #8 bolt/screws, it was probably a little bit too late when I did the post ... Numer #7 and #8 get 19Nm while #1 to #6 get 15Nm, btw: Spain uses as Germany the metric system in Nm or the older metric system kgm, the given torque in feet - pound was never used by Bultaco. And I have no clue how much ft lb is in Nm or kgm, but there exist some converter in the www. 12ft lb is 16.3 Nm in metric, pretty close to 15Nm, a little bit more then you should use. 11ft lb is 14.9 Nm in metric, a little less then you should use. My manual from 1980 says 15Nm (for #1 to #6) and 19Nm (for #7 and #8): I used it for maintaining my Bultacos since 1980 and it worked pretty well: I used the given specs for my 199b and also for the 221 it worked very well and I posted it already a year ago, here: http://www.trialscen...__1#entry276344

Also noticeable as this bike also had a single shock is the Becker Montesa made in the late 70's and ridden in up to the beginning 80's:

Yes as already posted the TR34 in my personal taste, very handy, good turner and very nice look: Me on TR34 in 1987: Very handsome looking bike: When the bikes will turn 30 they will go up in price, what bothers me most is the parts question's, otherwise I would have picked up one - again- already :/

Hi Bondy, The question is how good are your skills depending fastening the bolts? Some people very used to this job can do this without a torque wrench. I use a torque wrench and would recommend you to use one too. The pattern how to fasten the bolts is shown here: EDIT: The number give you the order where to start, The thigthening torque for #5 #7 and #6 #8 is 19Nm. The thigthening torque for #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6 is 15Nm. At first thigten all srews and nuts by hand! Then you thighten the screws and bolts in steps beginning with 3Nm from #1 to #6. Then again with with 6Nm and so on until you reached the 15 / 19Nm. regards Patrik

Thank you for your recommandations !!! I will skip the NJB's and get a quote for Falcons and Rockshocks, I believe one these are - as you stated - the "better" choice.

Sorry this took a long time, but now the measurements and drawings are done, I had some other things to do and I wanted to "develop" some other parts too, here is the drawing of the "lower" speedo bracket: The upper drawings show a bolt for the front fastening of the gas-tank with very flat head, (made out of steel type 1.4571 (in BS 320 S17/320 S 3)) The lower drwaings show mount for the speedo at the front engine mount, (made out of aluminium type 3.4365, (AlZnMgCu1,5)) The parts will be fabricated next week.

Mmmh first should you take off the right engine case side and then take out the crank from the left engine case? Anyway, are the plates that hold the main seals off, (6 screws that are holding the main seal and the O-ring)? If so (no rubber parts remaing, heat the case up again up to 150 - 180°C and now the same procedure as befor, some slight punches with a wooden or rubber hammer on the crank axis and the crank should come off. EDIT: The bush should come off before, you can use a straight puller.

Just went out for a ride with my TL.NW 320 yesterday and the bike "performend" very well. But there is one problem I believe I have, the rear shocks - still the Girlings - are let's call it very soft, they have a little bit too much sag I believe, (and my weight is 70kg). They a superb for small bumps and absorbing well but I have noticrd that they lack progression. So I have now two possibilities: #1 Repair the Girlings, any Idea who can do this? #1.1 Repair the Girlings which will take weeks or months and additional get a replacement #2 Replace the shocks. There are two brands that came up to my mind here: the Falcons and the NJB Trixshocks, but which one to choose? When looking for an replacement should I take the standard lenghts or add 20mm to get more rage of spring? Any recommandation in this case is appreciated Patrik

Some others with different color setup: Then the white one: A Sherpa with green: Dark blue Sherpa: Then another white one: In my personal view the standard ones looks good: And the white-blue models and additional the white-blue with some slight changes in the color scheme too: Ex Fred Micheaud's 199b: slightly modified color scheme: