pschrauber

I don't know if there are any readymade looms available, it also depends on you how many electrical components you will fit too the bike? - lights, (for sure I believe), - rear brake light, - horn, - flashes? Base wiring, without lights: The wiring loom with lights and horn and rear brake light is here: Additional for flashes, "bull eye" type for the ends of the bar:

Yes, impact driver are good for getting loose single bolts, but don't use them where you have to thighten or loosing a group of bolts or nuts that hold the cylinderhead or sidecover or any other "extensive" component where the bolts has to be thightend to a special amount. Very important while thghtening these fasteners is to thighten or take them loose in steps of around 3 - 5 Nm and then in the given order too, otherwise it is possible to tear off the bolt while using the wrong torque during thightening, or bending the cylinder head, ... any other planar mounted "extensive" component while thigthen or loosing the fasteners.

No problem I was fiddeling for the bike anyway. Just to note, the bike was sitting on a bike stand and I had 360mm long rear shocks mounted, therefor the distance between rear engine bracket and chain tensioner mount, (or the screw holding the chain tensioner), is very short. There is now only 2-3mm between them when the shocks are completly rebounded. When the standard shocks are mounted the gap is around 5 - 7mm. If you which more clearance here you might mount the bracket for the chain tensioner some mm more backwards.

Just made some measurments for some other parts I want to build, (speedomount on the left engine side). As I was at the right bike side I did take some pic's and some measurments. Pics: The mount for the chain tensioner sits very close to the rear engine mount. Here the rear brake cable stop: Here the measurements in mm:

Yep the clutch side flywheell looks like it came from an older Pursang or a Matador as shown here: Anyway biggest differences/effect will beto add weihgt or reduce weight to the ignition rotor side as the diameter is twice as big there. I don't know if this a really big improvement to get the bike as "snappy" as possible, the Bultaco is in my personal experience much easier to ride using the torque and forget as much as possible the clutch while riding. When the bike is continous in movement the bike handles best, with the loss of too much flywheel weight the risk of stalling the engine is higher, ...

Here they are:

The flywheel weight on the clutch side is completly inductive hardened, so it is very very difficult to modify them, (like milling or grinding). The difference in weight between the 350 and 250cc model on the clutch side is around 1kg, here a pic of the 250cc flywheelweight in the background and the 350cc flywheelweight in the foreground. The weight of the 350cc model is about 2,85kg The weight of the 250cc model is about 1,95kg The biggest differences you can get using different rotors on the ignition side: Femsa rotor for the 340cc Sherpa: 3,4 kg Motoplat rotor for the 325cc Sherpa/Alpina: 3,7kg Femsa rotor for the 250cc Sherpa/Alpina: 1,4kg Modify the rotor will have a lot of effect as the diameter of the "flywheel" is a influence variable to the moment of inerta: J = m * r^2 J: moment of inerta m: mass r: distance r from point mass Will look up if I find some pic's of the different ignition rotors.

As you have two bikes, a little difference will make every day live brighter For the speedo bracket mount, I will do the measurements and probably a template/model in this week, Drawings follow this weekend, you can have the drawings for making your own bracket. It will just be a bracket with an 90° angel, where the sockets between the axis of the front engine mount sits has an an offset to the mount of the speedo, leaving space for the wires of the ignition and the cable of the speedo. The speedo mount will fit original speedo which is btw. still available as assembly version for the dashbord of the road models, (with chromed body not painted black).

Forgot the color question, Opel Signalblau or Ford electric blue might even match better. Anyway with the years the color will change and even if you have choosen the right color there will be a still remarkable variation when the paint is applied and dryed in different batches / production runs. EDIT: But it is very difficult to get powder coatings in car color specifications, here they use RAL or the NCS color system.

Yes, they where moved to the top of the fork clamps and mounted to the steering head nut with a steel bracket, this position is also very exposed, the bracket will bend very fast just because of the momentum of the weight of the speedo, (not kidding, here a photo when I picked up the bike). In my very personal opinion the speedo is mounted more hided at the right side down, the boom where you mount the speedo has to be as short as possible and made out of 4mm alumium so it sit's very stabe. Yes it is true that I will have some difficulties to read the speedo, but I don't care so much as max speed with full throttle down hill and with a storm from behind is around 95km/h, so I will have difficulties to brake the rules as even half throttle I would not use very long. The speedo is just mounted for the registration rules. I have a speedo mounted to the right fork leg on my other bike, (a SWM), this speedo is also very difficult to read off so I'am very used to this issue.

There where certainly some for the older Bultacos available but I don't think you get them anymore as a spare. I have now got a short speedo wire for my Bultaco and will in this week do some CAD drawings of a speedo mount/bracket that will be mounted on the right side where the front engine mount sits. It's for my Bultaco Sherpa, the bracket will then be laser cutted out of strong aluminium, the machine can use cad drawings for cutting, I can seve some money if I do the dxf files for them. I don't know the costs yet but if you are interested?

The white color is RAL 9016, Verkehrsweiss, (traffic white). The blue color is btw. RAL 5015, Himmelblau, (sky blue). The blue is nice too:

Hi Bondy, we had this a couple of month ago I believe, anyway for fun as you stated in your post could mean fun riding or fun=good looking. I personal like the standard once too very much, sadly haven't found a pair NOS in good working condition, there are nearly likewise looking ones available too, price is around 80 - 90€. Very good looking and working are Margicals with double or even triple springs. Also very well working are NJB shocks. Here the comparison with Betor original, Betor new and Magicals: Here mounted Betors, standard ones which work as good or bad as the originals, little less suspension travel: The Magicals with triple spring, the golden ones got a new powdercoat as I did not like the golden color:

Looks like the bike is fitted with an metal petrol tank, this is indeed very nice, no problems with bubbling paint or discolored plastic.

You have detached the headstady I believe? 1. If you have remounted the screws and bolts and just thighten them "hand-thight" for lifting out the engine, (I lift out the engine while hold on the cylinder with one hand and the rear of the gearbox with the other, which suits / works best to lift out the heavy engine out of the frame for me, ( swing arm detached)), there should not have happend anything to the base gasket. 2. If you have not thigtehd the screws and bolts at the cylinder head and have used the cylinder for lifting the engine out of the frame the gasket which in my personal experience always stick a little bit in certain areas to the engine base and on other places to the cylinder the gasket may got ripped. 3. If you haven't touched the cylinder at all while getting out the engine, - must be very tricky -, then there should also not happend anything to the gasket. Checking the base gasket if it is still in one piece is dfficult as already mentioned (# 2.) you can have ripped it or not. While checking it out you might rip the gasket too. I personal can't give you a good advice here, only if the cylinder hasn't moved even a tenth of a mm away or sideways to the engine case during the removal of the frame the gasket should be OK. If you have doubts and have a spare gasket or a spare gasket sheet from which you can cut out a new one mount a new one it's a easier to mount a new one now then to redo the complete procedure.

Maybe interesting for someone that will rebuild a later Piuma, some pic's of my 350cc. When new: Some month later, the day was cloudy, fitted the bike with lights again for a longer ride when I remember right: Then the sun came out, have to look other old photos should be more somewhere?

Good idea, getting a proper working gas tank, leak free, ... is first duty, mounting any decals is freestyle and can be done later too. Freehand painted "decals", as you might probably have seen on the photo are not so well in appereance.

Yes, it's possible if the tank is painted and has a smooth surface, like on the 199b models: Original there where transfer decals mounted to the gas tanks of the 199b that where additional coated with a clear coat, the tendency that there will occur bubbles due to gas fumes is very high. Nowadays there are standard decals too available that you can mount without clear coat, these will last longer. Non of them will stick to the standard plastic gas tank as it has this special rough/textured surface. Gas tanks 199b, behind original with bubbled of decals, some homemade paintings, ... foreground: NOS Bultaco 199b painted and with decals (Italian model, no Sherpa sign on top): To the solid colored plastic tanks with the textured surface, these logos where printed to the surface, as there are no punch/chop available anymore, you have to spray them on I would guess and you have to make your own jigs for this too, ... This will work for the main side logos but not for the logos on the top. Textured solid colored PE gas tank with stamped on logos: The aluminium gas tanks that where very commen in your country would be the best solution, depending painting and decals.